The yellow color is the most cheerful color in the world, and we can spot it all around us in nature yet few modern homeowners decide to add it in their homes in some daring and bold ways nowadays.
Are you thinking about adding this lively color in your home?
What do you say about a yellow sofa?
The yellow sofa would naturally become the focal point in the room and thus it's going to set the tone for the rest of the home. We invite you to scroll down through the photos below and see How To Style Around A Yellow Sofa. Watch out, these interiors are contagious, and you won't stop thinking about a yellow sofa after you see curated gallery, believe me!
neutral tones
If the rest of your home is decorated in neutral tones then the yellow sofa is the perfect pick for you since it will spice up the decor and will break the monotony in the room.
When you add a yellow sofa in your living room there are no boundaries when it comes to choosing the rest of the colors to incorporate in your living space. Choose colorful artistic pieces, pillows, carpets and other small details which will make your home playful, cheerful.
The exposed bricks and the sofa in the happiest color are a perfect match, they create a vivid and warm atmosphere in the living room that all family members will greatly enjoy!
When you combine this sofa with blue or emerald green walls, you are bound to get some fascinating living areas which are super modern and contemporary. These contrasting colors catch the attention immediately and create an impression that will last !
What do you think about the simple ideas below on how to style around a yellow sofa? How would you do it? We would love to hear your thoughts in the comment section below!
Hey there coffee lovers! I believe that many of you have tons of coffee cups of different sizes, shapes and colors in your homes, so if you are running out of place for storage, stay tuned. Here I'm going to show you How To Store Coffee Mugs In Excellent Ways, so you have them right within the reach of your hand.
We are all rushing to enjoy a coffee early in the morning and we want all the mugs to be easily accessible. These designs are really affordable, you don't have to spend a fortune to make them. If you are up for a DIY project, find your inspiration in the photos below!
The first idea showcased below invites you to create your mug storage by using wood pallets and old spoons to make hooks for your coffee mugs.
If you want to show off the beauty of your coffee mugs, choose a design that makes them easily visible. The one below should definitely be shortlisted.
You don't have to do much to get yourselves a wonderful mug storage. All you need is a huge piece of wood and lots of hooks. The project won't take you more than 20 minutes.
The composition looks extraordinary, simply beautiful.
There are people who want to keep their mug behind closed doors, so if you are this type of person maybe the best way to store your mugs is to keep them in a drawer.
Here comes one of my favorite ways for coffee cup storage. A peg board! You can have fun with it and color it so it can match the rest of your decor, it allows you to store hundreds of mugs.
The heart-shape coffee mug storage is just perfect for those who want to show their love for coffee to everyone who visits their home. Use wood and some hooks to make this stunning design.
Source
All of these designs are awesome, and you may even find it hard to pick just one design of them all. If you are having a hard time deciding, then we suggest you to have another look and see which idea will fit best into your living space!
Woodworkers do not believe in wasting any part of the wood, especially if the piece is beautiful. However, sometimes, the wood can become too soft to use.
Wood stabilizing will help in using up all the parts of wooden planks, ensuring almost zero wastage. Since wood is a precious resource today, this is something that artisans and woodworkers prefer to do.
Now there is a lot of information about this process on the internet, and you might initially find it too confusing. So, we decided to create a guide for you about how to stabilize wood.
All the information regarding the types of wood and the different stabilizing methods used have been listed down for your benefit. We will begin by explaining the process in general so that you have a clear understanding of what you are dealing with.
So, grab a cup of your favorite beverage and read on!
How To Stabilize Wood
What Do You Mean By Wood Stabilizing?
Wood is not always very hard, and softwood can easily be damaged. Hence, wood stabilizing becomes necessary to ensure that they last long and remain protected from moisture. To create a stable and hardened piece of wood, you will need to inject softwood with resin.
Once you have injected it, the resin will fill up all the air pockets and gaps in between the grains in the wooden block, hardening the wood from within. You can then add a layer of resin to the top to provide a glossy layer that will prevent moisture from entering.
The Process Of Stabilisation
Before you begin the process of stabilization, remember to consider the desired hardness that you aim to achieve. For example, if you want to make a wooden toy from hardwood, then the toy could turn out to be very heavy, making it difficult to play with.
How To Prepare For The Stabilisation Process?
Some steps need to be taken before you start with the stabilization process. First of all, keep all the required materials in one place. If needed, make a note of the items needed beforehand and check the list again before beginning work. This is important as otherwise, you will have to stop work in between to find the missing material, and that could hamper the workflow.
Next, you will have to do a thorough checkup of the equipment that you plan to use. This means checking and cleaning every part so that all the dirt is removed. Dirt can cause problems in the curing process, and hence, clean up becomes an important step. Also make sure the equipment is working fine and will be able to cure the resin well.
Other than that, you will need all your safety gear in one place, which involves gloves, glasses, and an apron. Resin can spill, and it will be very difficult to get the marks out of surfaces. Hence, we will recommend that you cover the surrounding area well before starting off.
Clean your hands well and rinse off any container that you have used with the resin as soon as the job is over. It is best not to let the resin or any other stabilizing medium stick anywhere as that could then be very difficult to remove.
In case you are going to use a vacuum chamber, check the machine well for any kind of damage before beginning the curing process. The machine has to be in perfect condition in order to stabilize the wood well.
Moreover, we’d suggest keeping the tools in a place where you can access them easily. This would ensure that you have a smooth and error-free process.
How To Stabilize Wood?
With Epoxy Resin
If you are working with softwood, then using epoxy resin is a great idea to stabilize the wood. When mixed with hardener, epoxy resin will form a hard layer to cover the surface of the wood and keep it safe.
For best results, process the wood at 20 degrees Celsius. However, you should know that this type of resin will not seep into the wood, and hence, the entire piece will not be hardened.
Now before you begin working, the wood needs to be prepared, and you will have to clean it well. Ensure that there are no small pieces of wood sticking out from the sides. Then sand the top if possible to have a clean surface.
If dirt gets stuck inside the resin layer, it will look unattractive, and naturally, you would not want that. Hence, the wood has to be thoroughly cleaned before stabilizing it.
Furthermore, we will recommend wearing gloves during the entire process so that you do not get any of the fluids on your hands. Once you are wearing proper gloves, get some thinner and mix it with the epoxy resin.
Now you already know that the resin does not penetrate wood well by itself as it is thick. The thinner is needed so that it can penetrate the surface to some level and ensure that the wood hardens a little more.
With Thermal Hardening Resin
The thermosetting resin is another great alternative that can be used to harden softwood. It will penetrate the topmost surface of the wood, and the heat will soak in, hardening the entire block at once. But you will have to be careful about not letting any moisture interrupt this process.
Moreover, the wooden piece has to be completely dry before this process can begin. Since this method requires some heat to be added, you might have to put it in the oven. In this regard, we will recommend heating the oven up to 104 degrees Celsius and then drying the piece for the next 24 hours inside the oven.
This will remove all the moisture and will ensure a smooth hardening process. Remember that one of the reasons behind adding resin is to keep moisture away. Hence, you should ensure that the piece contains none of it before resin is added.
Cactus juice is another type of thermal hardening resin, which can be used after mixing with other necessary chemicals. Remember that it needs to be stored in a dry place, as otherwise, the chemical properties of the fluid might change.
Also, we will add a small tip here: when the stabilization process is done, clean all the tools and equipment with soapy water immediately. If you let the remains dry up, then they might be difficult to remove later.
With Vacuum Chamber
Another way of stabilizing wood is by using a vacuum chamber for the purpose. Now, if you do not have a vacuum chamber, then purchasing a new one is a good idea. Please select one, which will remove moisture from the wood as well as cleans the epoxy fluid. It should be able to eliminate all the organic material and essential oils from the fluid so that it is perfect for use.
Next, you will need to decide upon the capacity of the vacuum chamber before purchasing one. This is again a personal preference and will depend upon the kind of projects that you need it for.
Moving on, this method is generally used for rotten or old wood, which has been damaged by moisture to some extent.
With Wood Hardener
In case the softwood is damaged, then many people stick to using wood hardeners for the purpose. This is a transparent fluid that is largely used by wood artisans for their products.
And the major reason behind its popularity is that it does not change the color of wood at all. Instead, it will just add a transparent layer on top, which will make the wood hard and will protect it from moisture.
However, there is one problem here, and that is the wood hardener does not penetrate into wooden surfaces. That would mean that it would not harden the entire block of wood but would only protect the sides. So, it will stabilize the wood to some extent, but you may need to use some other agent for the complete protection of wood.
With Thermosetting Resin
When the resin is cured at 95 degrees inside an oven, it is known as a thermosetting resin. The wood needs to be dried completely before the process can begin. Hence, you can use the oven to dry the wood at 104 degrees Celsius for 24 hours. Then use the resin to cover the wood and the pores will absorb it slowly.
You will need dry wood, a vacuum pump, a vacuum chamber, aluminum foil, an oven, hardened resin, and a coloring agent, along with proper safety gear. Collect all the items needed and then start curing the wood.
How To Use A Vacuum Chamber?
The most common method of stabilizing wood is by using a vacuum chamber. We have divided the process into steps so that it is easier for you to understand.
Step 1| Laying The Wooden Pieces
The first step in this process involves laying out all the wooden pieces in the chamber. Now there is a chance that after laying them in place, they might float or move away. To prevent that from happening, you can use an anti-float mat. This would keep the wooden planks in place, and you can move on to the next step.
Step 2| Filling Up The Resin
Next, you will have to pour the resin onto the wooden planks in the vacuum chamber. We will recommend pouring in 15 mm and seeing if all the pieces are well soaked. You can fill it up to 30 mm so that the woods are deep inside the resin. This would ensure that the planks would soak up a lot of resin, and that would make the wood harder.
Step 3| Air Extraction
After the resin has been poured, you can close the vacuum chamber. Then the air extraction will begin, and all the air trapped within the wooden pieces will be released and extracted. Once the air is sucked out well, the resin can enter the blocks.
You will soon see the resin boiling once the vacuum chamber is closed. This process should begin right after extracting all the air. Also, make sure that the resin does not foam too much while boiling.
Step 4| Letting The Wood Sit
Once the process has been completed, allow the wood to stay in the container for a while before taking them out. Also, open the lid of the chamber carefully as it would be extremely hot.
Step 5| Drying The wood
Then you will need to take the woodblocks out from the chamber and allow them to dry. Keep them on a paper towel and let them stay in the open. While they dry, we will ask you to immediately pour the resin from the chamber into an airtight container.
You can store it in a dry place, and the resin will last for a long time. It can be used again for stabilizing wood the next time you plan the process. Also, wash all the equipment used immediately with detergent and water. They should be cleaned immediately as it would be easier to remove all the resin while it is still hot.
Step 6| Using An Aluminum Foil
Once the wooden pieces have dried, you will need to wrap them in aluminum foil. The shiny side needs to be on the inside, and the matte one should be facing you on the outside. Wrap the wood well so that the foil clings onto the wood.
Step 7| Heating The Oven
The oven has to be preheated before the wood can be placed inside. To do this, set it at a temperature of 71 degrees celsius and wait for it to get heated. Once the oven is hot, you will need to put the aluminum-covered wood blocks inside. Here, you might lose some amount of resin from the surface, but that should not cause an issue.
But if you are losing too much resin, then you would know that the surfaces had not dried well. Hence, please wait for enough time before placing the wooden pieces in the oven.
Moving on, after they are placed inside, leave them there for an hour and a half to bake.
Step 8| Removing The Foil
You can remove the foiled wooden pieces from the oven when they have been baked completely. Then you can wear your gloves and remove the foil from the wood. Now, this process can be difficult as the foil might not come off easily.
In that case, you can use a knife or any sharp tool to poke the foil. Then the foil can be pulled off from the top of the wooden pieces.
You will be able to see how the pieces have become hard, and there should be a huge difference from when they had been put in the oven.
What Types Of Wood Can Be Stabilized?
All types of wood cannot be stabilized as they do not have equal absorbing capacity. However, there are certain types of wood that come with larger pores, and these work the best. As the pores are bigger, the density is lower, making the wood perfect for stabilizing.
The stabilizing medium can be poured over the wood to make it harder and better protected. Plus, the big pores will provide more space for the medium to settle, and that would make it harder. So, the major types of wood that can be stabilized are,
Beech
Polar
Birch
These types have larger pores, and the resin can easily settle in them. That provides the final product with a good structure, and you can then use the stabilized wood for multiple purposes.
Moreover, you can use coloring dyes with the stabilizing medium, and the finished product will look beautiful. MMA can be used along with resin to get the desired color and shine. If you are confused, ask the local store, and they will tell you about the popular colors that are being bought.
However, there are some wood types that do not work with a stabilizing medium at all, and they are softwood, olive, ebony, and rosemary. These have tiny pores and an oily nature that prevents them from absorbing the stabilizing medium. Also, if the wood has a lot of tanning medium, then it will not stabilize as there are very limited empty pores remaining in the wood.
What Is Stabilized Wood Used For?
Craftsmen and artisans who work with wood often stabilize wood before using them to make items. If you are wondering what stabilized wood can be used for, think of all the things that you would use good quality wood for.
The list would range from knives, dishes, pans, bowls, frames, and other daily use objects. These need very tough wood as otherwise they can easily get damaged or break over time.
Tips To Remember
Please remember that taking out all the air from the wooden plank is essential before moving forward. The more the air leaves from the deepest of pores, the more resin can get into the spaces. That would make the wood harder and better protected against moisture or damage.
Next, keep an airtight container ready to store the excess resin from the vacuum chamber. If you are prepared beforehand, then you will end up saving a lot of resin, which can easily be used again.
Additionally, the stabilization process should be done under controlled conditions to prevent the wood from hardening up too much. While hardwood is what you require, if it is too hard, then it cannot be used for many purposes. You might not be able to cut or carve it well.
Also, hardened wood can become very heavy and difficult to manage. Imagine writing with a very heavy pen and then facing hand fatigue every now and then. So, keep these factors in mind before you actually purchase a product.
How To Stabilize Wood Frequently Asked Questions
In this section, we will be listing down some of the frequently asked questions about stabilizing wood. This should help in clearing up your queries too and hence, read through carefully.
Can Water Enter the Wood After Stabilizing?
Yes, while stabilizing fills up the pores, wood can still absorb water and puff up. This happens through capillary action, and the water stays stored inside, destroying the wood. Hence, please make sure that you keep the wood in a safe and dry place.
You could also add a protective resin layer on the sides of the wood after the furniture has been made. This would protect the wood from moisture and water to a great extent, and you do not have to worry about accidental spills.
How Much Time Will The Entire Process Take?
The time period will largely vary depending on the type of wood, the density, and the weather conditions. You can expect it to take 6 to 24 hours and hence, do not plan anything in the next 24 hours. The resin needs to cure well, and you will need to keep a watch on the entire process while it happens.
Moreover, if you are working with high-quality wood, then it can easily take 24 hours to cure well. This is because all the air needs to be pulled out and eliminated so that the pores become free. Then the stabilizing medium can fill them up easily.
However, if you are working with lower quality wood, then you will need around 6 to 8 hours for curing.
Can You Use Glue Instead Of Resin?
Yes, you can use PVA glue instead of resin for stabilizing wood but be careful with the amount. It can be too thick, and hence, you would need to add some water to make the consistency thin. The softwood can then be soaked in this mix for the night before you take the wood out and dry them.
Final Words
Stabilizing wood might have seemed like a job that is best left to professionals, but after reading this guide, you should be able to do it on your own. Just keep all the ingredients handy and follow the instructions.
If necessary, you can check up videos on YouTube to see how the process looks. We will also recommend taking the help of another person so that the work is done flawlessly.
One person can keep a note of the instructions while the other can focus on the job at hand. Having said that, it is time to wrap up as we are sure that you have a clear idea about the wood stabilizing process.
Let us know if you have any doubts in the comment section below. We will try to address them in our next guide.
Have your reel mower blades gotten blunt lately? Hate it when that happens. But what if instead of tossing it away, you could sharpen its blades?
Well, as busy home homeowners, we like our tools being ready for use at all times, and when it fails to work, we either replace or try to fix it. Not all appliances can be repaired, but you can definitely fix things when your reel mower’s blades hit a snag.
Even though these blades are designed to retain their sharpness for a long time, they eventually wear and stop working altogether. While that's unavoidable, there are several effective ways to sharpen a reel mower's blades. And you can do it yourself by following a few simple steps and taking some precautions beforehand.
Without further ado, let's get down to business.
How to Sharpen Reel Mower Blades?
Safety Measures Before The Job
You don't need to hire a handyman or a technician to get the job done, but you need to follow certain safety procedures. So, before we discuss the sharpening methods, we want to elaborate on the precautions. Here we go...
Make sure that the reel is secure.
Do not, at any point, place your hands on the cutting edge.
Avoid all distractions while going through the process.
While sharpening the blades, wear well-fitted clothes and take off all jewelry. This is necessary as with loose-fitting clothes and jewelry, there's a risk of the mower parts getting hooked on to them.
Wear resistant and non-slip footwear as well as full-length pants to keep your legs covered and protected at all times. While sharpening the blades, it's essential not to wear slippers, sandals, or any type of shoe that will leave your feet exposed.
Wear a face shield and safety glasses. While sharpening the blades, a lot of tiny metal particles, sand, stone bits, and other small matter will fly around and may reach your face. Hence, you must cover your face, especially the eyes, properly to avoid any injury.
All these measures are ways to ensure a safe experience and prevent any mishap or injury. So, it's best that you follow this basic routine before getting started.
File As a Sharpening Tool
This is by far the most cost-effective method of sharpening reel mower blades. It's pretty easy and helps you hone the edges of the blades until they regain sharpness.
Get rid of the debris
Before using the files, scrape off the stone chips, sand and other debris stuck on the blades. For this task, you can use a wire brush or a coarse sandpaper. After you finish cleaning, put the mower on a workbench or tabletop and chock the wheels with a piece of wood so that they don't move.
Secure the blades and file
Lock the blades in position by inserting a broom handle through the mower's blades. Thereafter, press the toothed end of the metal file on the bevel edge of the first blade. Angle the file and simply scrape on the blade between 3 to 6 times, dragging it down towards the end of the beveled edge.
Work till the midpoint and beyond
Continue filing your way down the blade until you reach the midpoint, repeating the brushing motion. Since the blades twist, you'll have to stop near the midpoint, remove the broom handle and reposition the reel to work on the rest of the first blade. Continue filing the blade applying the same motion but now start from the other end of the tool.
Repeat on all blades
Once the entire blade is sharpened, reposition the reel so you can perform the same course of action on the second blade, third blade, and so on, until all of them have been sharpened.
Finish with a lubricant - Once you're done with the blades, lubricate them so that they resist rust. You can either spray lubricant directly on the edges of the blades or apply some on a rag and then wipe it down the edges.
How to Sharpen Reel Mowers Blades Using A Sharpening Compound
Using a back-lapping sharpening kit is yet another quick and productive way to sharpen dull mower blades. The kits usually come with a handle and the sharpening compound. That being said, sharpening compounds are grainy substances which when applied to the mower's cutting edges sharpen them as the blades rub against each other.
This procedure involves attaching the handle to the driving gear of your reel mower, then using a paintbrush to apply the sharpening compound on each blade. Coat the blades generously and make sure to apply on all the blades. After that, push the reel mower backwards so that the blades rub against each other and regain their sharpness.
The reel can be driven back manually, but it is somewhat a tedious process, requiring a lot of effort. However, you always have the option of using a power drill to crank the reel more quickly, which speeds up the process, making it less stressful.
How to Adjust the Blades of a Reel Mower
We often mistakenly assume that the blades of our reel mowers have become dull, and need sharpening. But this may not be the case always as misalignment of the blades can also hinder the smooth operation of the mower. Fortunately, with these simple steps, you can realign the blades and resume work in a snap.
Below are some tips on how to adjust the blades of your reel mower:
Step 1
Lay your mower on a flat surface like a tabletop or a workbench. Wedge the wheels to prevent any movement.
Step 2
Spin the reel to determine the type of adjustment necessary (they are not the same always). While spinning, if you hear a screeching noise, it's an indication that you have to reposition the blades away from the cutting edge. However, if it spins loosely, then you must move the blades nearer to the cutting bar.
Step 3
After ensuring the type of adjustment needed, if the blades need to be moved nearer, place a flathead screwdriver in the screw hole and tighten the screws. Conversely, if the blades need to be positioned farther away, unscrew the bolts a little until the desired distance is achieved.
Step 4
While tightening or loosening the screws, make sure it is done a little bit at a time. If it's too much, the blades may be over-adjusted.
Step 5
Turn the screws of the cutting edge in the direction opposite of the reel screws. This should also be done slowly, bit by bit, to prevent over-adjustment.
Step 6
Continue spinning to find out other adjustments needed.
If this procedure is followed correctly, you can quickly fix any misaligned blade. If the blades are still blunt, then you should sharpen them employing any of the methods explained above, to get the mower working once again.
Conclusion
It is totally unnecessary to pay a professional for a job that you can complete yourself in the comfort of your home. That being the case, reel mowers are bound to get blunt with use over time, so it's best that you master the skill to undo the damage.
However, before we leave, we once again advise caution as sharpening any tool should be done carefully by following all the safety measures. If, at any point in time, you feel uncomfortable handling sharp parts, it's best to ask for help.
On that note, we've come to the end of this guide, and we hope we can answer all your queries.
Let us know in the comments section below if you have more tips to share.
Thought that rusty bow saw from your grandpa’s garage will give up on you? Well, you are in for a surprise!
Buying the required tools for any project is just half the job done. Depending on the type of tools, we must clean and sharpen them regularly. Proper maintenance ensures durability and peak performance in the long run. After all, such tools are quite expensive, and who would want to shell out all that money only to discard them after a few uses?
Regular sharpening of cutting tools not only increases their lifespan but also makes your job easier. Believe it or not, a sharpened saw works three times faster than an unsharpened one. Thus, you will need less force and time to cut through that log of wood. However, sharpening a bow saw is no child’s play, so we are here to help you with that.
Bring out your tool kits, and let’s get to work!
How To Sharpen A Bow Saw?
Observe The Blade
The edge of the blade consists of a combination of teeth. The cutting teeth are triangular, and the raker teeth are shaped like fishtails — both of these need to be sharpened differently. Before beginning the process, we recommend that you wear work gloves and take all safety measures to prevent injuries.
In addition, check that the bow saw does not bear specialized hardened teeth. If it does, a regular saw file will not work on it; you will need a diamond file instead.
Filing
If the bow saw has been sharpened before, chances are its teeth may be uneven. The shorter teeth are no longer able to reach the object you want to cut, requiring more effort from the user. Therefore, it is essential to file/ trim the blade so that its teeth retain the same shape and height.
Set up the saw in a vise with the edge of the blade pointed upwards. Now, take a flat file and run it back and forth across the blade until all the teeth reach the same height. At this step, you need not worry about the rakers that are shorter than cutting teeth.
Sharpening The Cutting (Triangular) Teeth
Use a slim taper file or any three-sided file to sharpen the cutting teeth. Try to maintain an angle of 75 degrees and do not exert unnecessary pressure. Each tooth should get no more than 3-4 strokes of the file. This step is crucial, so we recommend that you do not rush and work on one tooth at a time.
If the bow saw has been frequently sharpened before, it may not show much results, and you could require a new one. In other circumstances, this time-consuming process will produce a visibly significant difference.
Sharpening The Raker (Fishtail) Teeth
Unlike the cutting teeth, the fishtail rakers should be sharpened into chisel tips. Ensure that you maintain a 90-degree angle while sharpening the raker teeth. As mentioned before, we do not recommend putting too much force on the file, and the bow saw should remain put throughout the process.
Finishing Up
Now that we are almost done, it is time to set the cutting teeth. Note that this step does not include the raker teeth. We recommend using adjacent cutters to alternate and set each tooth. Point the edge outwards while doing so. This step is essential for widening the kerf and achieving better friction.
Check The Results
Test your bow saw on a piece of wood or anything that catches your fancy. It is highly likely that your saw cuts more smoothly and quickly than it used to. If that is not the case, you may need to sharpen the blades further.
And that is how you resurrect your ancient bow saw! But hold up… You would not want to repeat this tedious task time and again now. Right?
Of course, sharpening is part of the maintenance and needs to be done periodically to increase the longevity of your cutting tools. But in our fast-paced world, where everyone is in a rush, who has the time to sharpen a saw after every few months?
Hence, before we sign off, here are a few maintenance hacks that will keep your saw in top-notch condition. Note that these steps will be beneficial for bucksaws, pruning saws, and other sharp tools as well.
Bow Saw Maintenance Tips
Proper Storage
Since these cutting tools are made of metal, keeping them away from humidity and heat helps a great deal in maintaining their sharpness. Thus, whether you hang them in a garage or keep them in a toolbox, saws must be stored in a cool, dry, and dark place.
Lubrication
Remember to lubricate the blades after each use to prevent rust and maintain the sharpness of your bow saw. There are tons of options to choose from, with the most popular ones being gun oil and paste wax.
Furthermore, always read the instructions of the lubricating agent before using it since all of them have different procedures. While gun oil can be wiped off immediately, paste wax needs to sit on the blade for a while. Not following the correct lubricating procedure can cause more harm than good.
Oiling
While the blade of the saw does the most work, the handle needs some attention too. Especially, wooden handles must be oiled regularly, if not after every use.
Note that this step is different from lubricating the blade. While the blade needs to be wiped off immediately or after a while, depending on the lubricant, it is not the same with the handle. Let the oil stay on the handle as it acts as a protective layer against dust and moisture.
Additionally, if you notice some rust on the handle where it touches the blade, pull it apart and clean the area. You can opt for sandpaper or steel wool to scrape off the rust and stains if any. Finish it off with oiling.
Removing Rust
In case the blade of your bow saw starts rusting, a razor blade can come in handy. Take off the handle and lay the blade on a flat surface. Keep the razor at a low angle and run it over the saw blade. Be extra cautious since you will be working with two sharp objects, so it is best not to speed up.
There may be some stubborn stains on the blade but nothing that a steel wool or sandpaper cannot handle. Simply rub it over the stains, and they will be gone in no time.
Using The Bow Saw Correctly
Other than proper maintenance, using it the correct way also helps in getting the most out of your handy bow saw. Hence, here are some useful tips and tricks on using your bow saw correctly and safely.
Uses Of Bow Saws
Bow saws are ideally meant for cutting small and medium-sized logs of wood and branches. While bigger bow saws, often operated by two or more people, can tackle large pieces of wood, a regular bow saw is not meant for that. Limit your bow saw uses to camping, sculpting, minor carpentry, etc.
Sharpness And Friction
Always start a project with a clean, and sharp bow saw. As mentioned earlier, use a lubricant and oil to clean it. This maintains the perfect amount of friction between the blade and the object in every use.
Cutting Branches
Start by making an undercut below the branch before cutting it. Cut it gently by drawing the bow saw back and forth. Be careful about your hand that is stabilizing the branch or any other object. We recommend keeping your hand about 10 inches away from the blade.
Protective Gear
If possible, always wear protective boots, gloves, hats, and goggles while working with a bow saw. After all, it is better to be safe than sorry.
Carrying A Bow Saw
While carrying a bow saw, hold the handle with the edge facing away from your body. If you happen to be near children, be extra vigilant while handling the sharp tool. Try maintaining a safe distance of at least 10-feet from them.
Do Not Work Alone
It is best to have someone around while you work with a bow saw to avoid hazardous mishaps.
Conclusion
There you have it! A clear step-by-step tutorial of sharpening a bow saw with maintenance tips. Although sharpening is a long-forgotten skill, there is no harm in honing it, especially if you enjoy woodwork. Not to forget the boost of confidence and self-satisfaction that comes with doing something all by yourself!
So, fetch that abandoned bow saw which is collecting dust in some corner of your storage. It is time to give it a makeover with your newly learned skill!
A new cast iron skillet is an investment you won’t regret. Cast iron skillets are safe and versatile cookware for making the most delicious food you can ever imagine!
Whether cooking on a stovetop, baking in an oven, or grilling outdoors, cast iron pans can be used well!
But cooking with cast iron is not always the easiest. Some maintenance is required to keep this type of cookware in mint condition.
Worry not; there is no reason to get intimidated. This article will show you the easy steps to season cast iron skillets for perfect use every time. Keep reading!
Before diving into the steps to season cast iron cookware, let’s first understand what cast iron seasoning is all about.
You might think we’re adding salt and pepper to a new pan. Besides, isn’t that what “seasoning” in cooking is all about? In this case, no.
The oven seasoning process involves creating a protective coating for your skillet by heating incredibly thin layers of fat or oil. In short, seasoning is carbonized oil baked onto cast iron.
As the oil heats, the fat bonds to the metal and converts it into protective plastic. This is the process called polymerization.
You probably imagine getting a greasy coating. But the ideal result after you season a cast iron is a hard, blackened skin that protects metal from corrosion.
The seasoned surface becomes a hydrophobic protective layer, creating an easy-release cooking surface. Its nonstick surface makes cast iron skillets better than today's best non-stick pans.
Creating this thin layer of protection works not only for cast iron cookware, but you can also season the cooking surface of carbon steel pans.
How to Season Cast Iron Pan in 5 Steps
Although most new cast iron skillets will come pre-seasoned, seasoning cast iron with additional layers of protection will only increase the lifespan of your new cast iron pan!
Many cast iron cookware sites will give you similar steps on how to season cast iron. They're pretty straightforward to follow.
Later, it would be best to pop your skillet into a hot oven. Preheating the oven to 230 ºC (450ºF) ahead of time is best for better time management.
Step 2: Wash and Dry Your Pan
Have you heard of comments saying soapy water will destroy the surface of your cast iron pan? Although there is some truth to it, a little soapy water to get your cast iron skillet ready for seasoning won't hurt.
Prepping to season a cast iron requires the smoothest surface possible. Some soap, hot water, and a brush to clean the entire pan will do the trick.
Make sure to remove all food particles on the surface. A chainmail scrubber or pan scraper gets the job done faster.
If your cast iron pan is rusty, grab a ball of steel wool and scrub off all tough rust spots to create a clean pan.
After a good wash and scrub, dry the skillet with a fresh paper towel. Make sure to remove all lingering water droplets.
You don't want any surface moisture on there. To ensure it is completely dry, put it on the stovetop for a few minutes to remove any excess water.
Once your skillet is neat and dry, add a small amount of neutral cooking oil to the skillet.
We suggest unsaturated cooking fats like flaxseed, grapeseed, sunflower, or vegetable oil. These are easier to spread compared to saturated fats like shortening or lard.
Although flaxseed oil results in a nicely seasoned cast iron skillet, be wary that it has a very low smoke point at just 225 ºC (437 ºF). Your kitchen may get a smoky atmosphere during the baking process. And because of this, we don't always recommend it.
Next, use a paper towel to coat the entire pan, including its top, bottom, sides, and handle. Remove any excess oil. A thin coat should do.
Rub the cooking oil all over and buff thoroughly, so the pan doesn't look the slightest bit greasy. Any excess oil will make the pan sticky after heating.
Your oven temperature should be at 230 ºC (450ºF) by now. It's time to place your cast iron skillet upside down and bake for about an hour.
Oven temperatures might vary depending on the cooking oil you use. Some advocate changing oven temperatures during seasoning, especially as it gets a little smoky in your kitchen.
Make sure to keep your space ventilated when this happens.
Placing the pan upside down may cause a few oil drips. Feel free toset a large baking sheet or aluminum foil under the skillet for easier cleanup.
After baking, give the pan some time to cool. It will be extremely hot. An oven mitt will come in handy!
At this time, the oil will polymerize and form the first of many plastic-like coatings for your cast iron.
Step 5: Repeat 3 to 4 Times
After your first hour of heating, you should have a good initial layer from your own seasoning.
Take your cast iron out of the oven and repeat step 3. Rub your pan with more oil, buff it out, and pop it back in the oven for another 30 minutes.
Perform the oiling and heating process for a 3rd and 4th time. Once you are done, switch off the oven and let the pan cool with the door closed.
You should now have a polished, non-stick black surface. Your cast iron pan is seasoned and ready for cooking!
What Are Common Mistakes When Seasoning Cast Iron?
Seasoning cast iron is not that difficult once you get the hang of it. But there are still a few mistakes people overlook. Here are a few:
It is a common understanding that soap can deteriorate the nonstick characteristics of your cast iron skillet.
However, many experts have agreed that a little soap to clean your cast iron cookware is fine. Just make sure to rinse it before oiling and heating it fully.
A seasoned cast iron skillet should remain perfect for cooking for a long time. But a word of caution, avoid cooking acidic foods on it for long durations. This can increase the chances of corrosion on your skillet.
If you need another cookware for your pizza recipes, you might want to check out the Best Portable Pizza Oven and Best Wood for Your Pizza Oven.
Heating the pan after oiling is crucial, so the oil bonds to the pan to become a protective layer of seasoning. This should be done at least 3 to 4 times.
Your cast iron pan is stronger than you think! They can last for generations.
It is unlikely you'll scrape off the surface with your metal utensils. If you notice black pieces flaking off, that's most likely burnt bits of food from your previous cooking session.
When Should You Get a New Cast Iron Pan?
Well-seasoned cast iron cookware is known to last ages. Many families even pass it on from generation to generation, along with their secret recipes.
You are seasoning your cast iron cookware every time you use it. So every use should strengthen the bond to the metal.
However, avoid using cast iron for cooking highly acidic foods like long-simmering tomato sauce. This eats up its protective coating.
If you notice food sticking more often, the black patina wears off, and it is time for a re-seasoning.
If a crack appears in your cast iron pan, it's time to give your cast iron skillet a rest.
Even a hairline crack will expand and contract when heated and cooled. This can eventually cause a split which is extremely dangerous when it happens while you are cooking.
Cracks are also breeding spaces for bacteria and rust. Consuming food cooked from a broken cast iron skillet is already a health hazard.
Testing countless methods to season cast iron pans is unnecessary. You've got this article to guide you in our tried-and-tested method on how to season cast iron.
Follow the easy steps above and avoid common mistakes. You should get the hang of it soon!
Just remember that a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet used frequently allows the building of new layers of seasoning every time. Your skillet should stay in your family for generations to come.
What are you waiting for? Get busy seasoning and cooking in the kitchen now!
You probably have a globe at home which you don't use anymore. Most kids get globes when they are at school, and later they put it somewhere away and simply don't use it anymore. If you have a globe at home, and you are looking for some fun DIY projects, you are at the right place.
Here you will see How To Repurpose A Globe In A Fun Way and give it a second life in no time and with ease. These crafts are super easy and they don`t require experience or particular skills, so you may want to give some of them a try. Scroll down and make a pick!
If you love hanging plant holders, this is the perfect idea for you. The globe will come in handy here perfectly well, and you will have a planter that is one of a kind.
Did anyone said barbecue? Barbecue time is the best time spent with family and friends. If you want to update your old barbecue and give it a brand new look, here's how you can do it without spending a cent!
Just color the globe in one color and add flower decorations to it if you want to get an eye-catching decorative piece that will make a statement in your home.
What do you say about coloring the globe in chalkboard paint? In this way you will have a wonderful surface where you can write your favorite quotes daily and motivate yourselves and the people around you!
Yes, the globe can be easily transformed into a clock! Just make a tiny hole, and insert the clock mechanism from an old clock, and you will get a unique teller of time!
Do you have the habit to save money? If yes, this way to repurpose the globe is the ideal for you!
Many people turn the glove into a lighting fixtures, and there are many varitations to this purpose. You can check them all out and pick your favorite!
I totally love this design! The globe is repurposed in such a way, that people can leave their cards on the party they are attending in it. If you are hosting a party soon, this is a cool idea that you should try.
Which is the design in which you would love to repurpose your globe? We would love to hear from you in the comment section below!
As essential as wood glue is for any DIY woodworking project, it comes with a couple of negatives too.
And the worst of them is when it accidentally drops on hardwood flooring or spills over a workpiece during a project. Removing it might be quite a struggle, something that every DIYer is acquainted with. But at the end of the day, you need to get done with the removal.
Don’t worry; there are some effective methods to tackle this mess, too, as with other materials. And that’s what we’ll tell you about in our extensive guide. Just follow these accurately, and you’ll be relieved from the headache of wood glue spills.
With all said and done, let’s begin!
How to Remove Wood Glue
Some Essential Tips And Quick Tricks
When it comes to removing wood glue, the first thing to keep in mind is that all glue products on the market aren’t the same. Each has its own set of characteristics, and when used on wood, it might create a different kind of glue mark that you must remove.
While using wood glues, they often drip from the bottle or tube and form globules that can be difficult to remove immediately. However, once they harden a bit, you can remove them more easily with the help of a mechanical procedure.
All you need to do is take a scraper or chisel and chip away the unwanted globules, which will take just a few minutes. But the only sticking point with this procedure is that some paint might also be removed, or the wood surface might get damaged sometimes.
Another possibility is the glue getting blotched and forming undried lumps that might filter into cracks and spread out on the wooden surface.
You can adopt several methods to tackle such stains, which include using warm soapy water and wiping off the glue. Again, you need to be extra careful while wiping the glue off as certain wood surfaces can get damaged easily. That’s why it will be best to use a less abrasive technique that will preserve the wooden surface.
Proven Methods For Removing Wood Glue
To ensure that wood glue is removed effectively, it’s essential to consider the wood surface you’re dealing with. That’s because every technique might not be suitable for all types of surfaces.
However, there are two proven methods that will be equally effective on any wooden surface. And we’ll begin by discussing these procedures.
This process works wonderfully in softening and removing powerful vinyl glues and is quite simple. Just set your hairdryer at a particular heat setting and position it above the part with the dried glue for about five minutes.
And you’ll soon find the glue softening and loosening out. Once you spot this, scrape or peel the glue off the surface, and it will be back in its original form. Thus, applying heat is the best technique when you need to remove dried and hardened glue.
If the surface you’re working on is slightly raised and the glue covers a fairly large portion of the area, this method can prove to be quite useful. It requires you to soak a cloth in hot water and place it on the site stained with dried glue. Let it soften for some time, and then scrape off the softened glue from the surface.
Brake cleaners can be found in any hardware store, so you won’t have any difficulty fetching such a product. For this method, you just need to spray the cleaner onto the stained area and then clean it with a dry cloth till the glue is totally removed.
Sometimes, spraying once isn’t enough, so you’ll need to do it several times to ensure that all the glue is softened and can be wiped out easily.
Other Materials You can Use
If the glue turns dry in some hard-to-reach areas on the surface and you require removing it, some other materials can be used for the same. Your choice will vary according to the surface that you have to clean and the stubbornness of the dried glue.
Here are some materials that can be beneficial for getting rid of the unwanted wood glue:
Ammonia
Vinegar
Acetone
Salt and lemon
Methylated spirits
Special glue removers
Choosing The Best Wood Glue Remover
If you opt for a glue remover among the above products, choosing the right product becomes important as not all are equally suitable for your purpose. So, these are factors you should consider while making a choice.
Ingredient
Glue removers come with a particular active ingredient that makes removing sticky substances easy. While some are formulated with chemicals, others consist of natural ingredients such as soy or citrus oils.
Remember that apart from being truly effective in removing the glue, the product must also be safe to use. Speaking of chemical-based removers, these emit a strong odor and have a harsh formulation that’s harmful to the skin. On the other hand, citrus-based removers come with a pleasant fragrance and are much safer to handle.
That’s why you must read through the reviews to ascertain whether the product is efficient as well as safe to use.
Form
Adhesive removers are available in the form of liquids and sprays, so you can choose between either form as per your convenience. Liquid removers are the best to go for in case you mostly work in areas with limited ventilation since they don’t produce chemical odors. But if you work in well-ventilated spaces, sprays will be perfect for the job.
When you’re working with raw or bare wood, you must ensure that the surface doesn’t have any unwanted marks after the removal procedure is complete. Using some particular materials will make sure no damage is caused to the surface.
1. Using Baking Soda
Firstly, soften the undesirable glue on the wood surface using a hairdryer and then scrape off the softened part with a spatula. Follow this by mixing some baking soda with hot water and spreading that paste all over the unwanted marks of glue on the surface. You’ll have to wait for around 15 minutes and then wash the entire surface with soapy hot water.
2.Using A Nail Polish Remover
Though it might sound surprising, the chemical used to remove nail polish can be quite beneficial for getting rid of wood glue. But make sure that the remover doesn’t have acetone, as that will create unwanted marks on the surface.
Using this product is quite simple, as you just need to apply some of it on the area which has the glue and allow it to set in for a few minutes. After this, you can use steel wool, emery paper, or steel sponges to take off the softened glue from the surface.
Working With Painted Wood
If you need to remove glue from painted wood, it will require much more work than what we’ve discussed till now. The extra effort lies in trying to protect the underlying paint from any damage or removal. For this, you’ll have to start off by removing the bigger chunks of hardened glue with a hairdryer or plastic spatula. Then you may follow any of the two techniques described below:
Again, this fact might seem surprising, but cooking oil is indeed excellent for getting rid of wood glue. You can access some cooking oil anytime you want since it’s available in every household. And most importantly, it will never damage either the bar wood surface or the underlying paint.
Soak a piece of cloth in some cooking oil and wipe it over the area with the wood glue. You’ll also need to apply a little elbow grease along with the oil. Finally, wash the wood surface with warm soapy water, and you’ll soon find that the wood glue has been removed.
Another non-toxic yet highly effective way of removing wood glue is by using vinegar. Take a piece of cloth, soak it in vinegar, and pat it softly on the part with the glue. This will cause the glue to loosen from the surface. Now, take another cloth piece, dip it in hot water, and wipe it over the surface. The loosened glue will then come off easily. But in case there’s still some glue left on the surface, use the steel wood to wipe that off.
Dealing With A Range Of Wooden Surfaces
The wooden surface that you’re working with might not always be of the same type. Moreover, it might be used in different furniture and other parts of the house, such as floors and decks. All these types of surfaces have different applications, and hence you will need different methods to remove glue from them.
1. Hardwood Surfaces
While using wood glue for your projects, you will often find some spills on the floors, and in case they’re made from hardwood, getting rid of it can seem difficult. However, there’s a way you can get through this task, but you need to be very cautious at every step. That’s because hardwood flooring is more prone to damage than other materials.
Here’s how you’ll have to proceed:
Step 1
Begin by softening and loosening the dried glue with a hairdryer. Then scrape off the softened glue from the hardwood floor using a spatula.
Step 2
Mix some baking soda with hot water and apply the paste to the glue stain on the floor. Wait for some time to let it sit in.
Step 3
Now, wipe off the undesirable stains using a cloth soaking in warm soapy water.
2. Wooden Tables
Simple items in your kitchen such as salt and lemon will be enough for removing wood glue from any wooden table. A solution of lemon and salt is highly effective in getting rid of glue stains and won’t have any adverse effects on the wood.
All you need to do for the procedure is squeeze a little lemon juice on the area stained with glue and leave it to soak in for around 15 minutes. Follow this by sprinkling some salt on the area and let it work for some more minutes. As a result, the glue will loosen and can be lifted off quite easily using a spatula.
3. Waxed Wood
You’ll require using a slightly different process when you’re working with waxed wood, and it has lots of wood glue stains. These are the steps you must follow for removing wood glue from such surfaces:
Step 1
Use absorbent paper or paper towel to cover the glue stain.
Step 2
Then heat an electric iron and run it all over the paper or towel so that the glue softens. Be careful not to heat the iron too much as it may burn the paper in that case.
Step 3
The paper will now absorb the softened glue stain, and the surface will soon be clear of all the glue.
4. Parquet Floors
Parquet is a rare and appealing flooring type that consists of a geometric mosaic of several wood pieces assembled to create a decorative effect. And like hardwood floors, this type is also easily affected by undesirable glue stains. To get back the much-loved original look of a parquet floor, you can proceed in two different ways as per the form of glue used.
In case the stains have been caused by a solvent-based glue, they will be much simpler to deal with. Just use a scraper to remove all the unwanted glue chunks. Then apply a paste of warm water and baking soda to the affected area and clean it off with a cloth.
However, removing vinyl glue will be slightly more difficult as it’s much more brittle in nature. Begin by removing the worst of glue stains using a spatula and finally wipe the area with a clean cloth. Remember that you should use the spatula gently as applying more force might end up damaging the floor.
5. Teak Wood
Teak is a particular variety of hardwood that is widely used for making furniture of different kinds. The aesthetic appeal of this variety and its high termite and moisture resistance make it an ideal fit for the purpose.
But teak is still prone to being stained by wood glues. Hence, in case you’re struggling to remove wood glue spills from your favorite teak furniture, the following procedure can do the trick:
Step 1
First and foremost, you’ll have to soak a sponge in warm water and wipe it gently over the glue stain.
Step 2
Follow this by dipping some balls of cotton wool in methylated spirit and rub over the stain gently so that it comes off.
Step 3
In case you find the wood surface to be slightly uneven after cleaning off the stain, use some sandpaper of fine grit to smoothen the surface.
6. Varnished Wood
Varnishing a wooden surface provides it with a layer that can be damaged very easily. As such, while removing glue from surfaces, you should be gentle throughout the procedure.
First, you’ll have to soak a piece of cloth in warm water and dab it gently over the stained areas. But if this doesn’t work, you can try applying cooking oil in the same way. And in case the stains still persist, you can use white spirits as these won’t affect the varnish. Dip a piece of cloth in the spirit and rub it over the stains gently, and they’ll surely soften and come off.
Removing Wood Glue That’s Still Wet
It’s always better to treat glue stains while you’re working with wood pieces, as they are less stubborn and hence easier to clean. Plus, treating them then and there also saves the effort and time you’ll have to put into it later on.
This procedure requires you to soak a piece of cloth in warm water and then wipe the glue off the surface. But in case there’s a large glue blob on the surface, you should ideally let it turn slightly dry and then remove the blob with a spatula. If you find that glue has turned too hard, apply some acetone on it, and you’re good to go.
After you’ve looked at various methods to use for removing wood glue, let’s look at some essential things you need to know about working with wood glues.
Preparing Wooden Surfaces Before Applying Wood Glue
When starting a woodworking project, you’ll naturally aim to create perfect fixtures and joints and cuts to ensure the perfect outcome. As such, it’s essential to prep your wood pieces so that you’re able to achieve long-lasting bonds using wood glue.
Gluing Edges, End Grains, And Faces
For gluing each of these parts of the wood pieces, you must create pockets, dovetails, or a tenon and mortise joint as per the space you need for the job. Usually, face and edge gluing is easier since there is more surface area for the wood to create a bond. But to use the end grain, you’ll definitely have to create any of the joints or fixtures that we mentioned.
Sand The Wood
Remember that wood glue bonds best to wood pieces that are properly sanded or smoothened. But in case there’s a finish such as a sanding sealer on the surface, the glue won’t bond well and create a weaker fixture.
Hence, make sure you check all the wood pieces for any such finish before you start the work. If you come across such a finish, you must remove it completely.
Precautions To Take While Working With Wood Glue
Using Masking Tape
You can avoid unnecessary glue spills by using some masking tape. All you need to do is tape off the section where you’ll have to apply the glue. This way, the tape would prevent excess glue from spilling over other portions of the surface or onto the floor.
Check The Instructions For Application
Most of the glue products available nowadays come with a manual containing certain instructions for application. Some might have the instructions mentioned on the label over the tube or the bottle.
Either way, you must go through these instructions carefully. These often include the ideal amounts to be used for different purposes or a certain standard amount applicable in all cases. So, adhering to the prescribed amounts will help prevent the possibility of a glue spill. You should also work in batches instead of applying the glue over a large portion at once.
Another thing to make a note of is the time for which the glue can be left open without drying up. Keeping it open for a long time may cause it to dry completely, thereby rendering it useless.
Furthermore, some dried glues might emanate toxic fumes that are harmful to the body, so it’s best to fasten the lid or cap the moment you’re done using the glue.
Using Proper Tools
Try spreading the wood glue using a trowel as that will help apply more precise amounts on the wooden surface and will also keep the hands protected. If glue comes in contact with the hands, it may cause irritation or might even lead to burns or rashes on the skin.
Wearing Protective Gear
Many wood glue products have toxic chemicals such as formaldehyde included in their formulation. Hence, you need to adopt certain protective measures to prevent any accidental injuries. The parts that need to be protected are your eyes, respiratory tract, and skin. As such, you should wear safety goggles, a respirator mask, and a pair of safety gloves.
Dispose Of The Glue Safely
Once you’ve finished using the glue, make sure to dispose of the container safely. You must not pour the remaining amount down a drain or in a sink, as that can clog parts of your plumbing system and will also contribute to polluting waterways.
The Area Must Be Well-Ventilated
Exposing yourself to wood glue for a long time can lead to headaches and breathing problems. Moreover, it might contribute to the development of more dangerous diseases in the long term.
This is why it’s essential to work in a room that’s well-ventilated. All harmful odors and fumes produced by the glue can then drift away quickly, ensuring that there’s only fresh air to breathe in.
How to Remove Wood Glue Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. Can Wood Glue Be Sanded?
Yes, you can sand down wood glue to flatten the bumps that it may leave behind. You can also sand the wood after removing glue stains to achieve ultimate smoothness, as we’ve mentioned earlier.
Yes, you can remove Titebond glue with acetone, even though it’s much stronger than most other products. Start by moistening the glue with a damp cloth and then wipe it off with another cloth soaked in acetone.
Final Words
With that, it’s a wrap for today!
We hope you’ve developed a much clearer idea about how to proceed with removing wood glue from various wooden surfaces. So, resume your projects on a fresh note by steering clear of all the extra glue stains on the wood pieces. Nothing can go wrong this time around!
Here’s a last piece of advice for you. While purchasing any product such as acetone, glue remover, or a brake cleaner, make sure you read some online guides. That’ll help you zero in on a good-quality product.
We’ll be back soon with more intriguing guides, so watch out for this space. Till then, all the best!
Are you tired of ugly spray paint stains ruining the beauty of your concrete slab?
If the stain has been on the surface for ages, the chances are that it has become stubborn over time and thus more challenging to remove. However, it is not an impossible task. With a bit of help from DIY techniques, you can easily get it removed in no time.
But, the market is filled with thousands of equipment and materials that promise to take stains off the concrete. And this can often lead to confusion.
So, today, in this guide, we talk about the seven most effective methods you can implement to remove paint easily. We give you a detailed step-by-step breakdown of the processes and discuss the pros and cons of each technique.
Instead of rushing to the supermarket looking for materials that would save the concrete, you should first look for what is available in the house. It is not too much of a difficulty to find soap, water, and a stiff bristle brush for the job.
Trust us when we say that it is a great idea to give this method a try as it is the most economical way to deal with the problem. If the affected area is small, this should work perfectly!
What You’ll Need
For this process, you will need materials that you can find within the house. If you do not, getting one from the supermarket would not be too troublesome.
The most important thing you need to procure is a scrub brush with stiff bristles, two buckets, warm water, and mild soap. If you are working outdoors, what is required is a garden hose and, if indoors, a mop and a bucket.
And do not forget to get yourself some protective gear like safety goggles, respirators, or light-duty gloves.
How To Do It
The first thing that you need to do is remove excess dirt by wiping down the area meticulously. After that, make sure that you put on your protective gear correctly and check for any discrepancies.
Now go ahead and add warm water to a bucket. In the second bucket, mix some more warm water with a few drops of dish soap, just to get the solution a little foamy. Now wet the affected area on the concrete with warm soapy water.
Once that is done, dip the stiff brush in the soap solution and move it over the concrete, applying pressure in a circular motion. Use a paper towel after that to soak up any paint that comes off and wipe the area clean with warm water.
If you are working indoors, mopping the area one more time would be a good idea.
Pros And Cons
The best thing about this method is that it is the most cost-effective way to treat the issue as you are most likely to find all the materials to be present in the house. Secondly, it does not involve any toxic material to remove the paint from the concrete.
However, the major downside to this technique is that it involves a very mild solution and can take a considerable amount of time and effort to remove the paint. If the color has stained the concrete a long time back, the chances are high that it will not be entirely gone.
Considerations
You should consider going with this option only if the paint splattered on the concrete is relatively fresh. If you are wondering why, let us explain.
Concrete is highly porous and tends to absorb color quite fast, and as a result, the paint settles deep into it. Once settled in the intricate grooves of the concrete, it gets hard to remove it with a mild soap solution. But it is always worth a try as a first measure before getting the big guns out!
Moreover, keep in mind that you might have to repeat this process a few times to see the results. If it does not work in the first two tries, you can also add white vinegar to the solution to make it stronger. A lot of people suggest that it is a great agent in removing difficult stains.
But if you do choose to try it, make sure that you mix it in the right proportion. When not done correctly, it tends to strip the coating of the concrete, leaving it dull and famished. We suggest that you do a spot test to check how it affects the concrete you are using it on. This can save you from the trouble of damaging the entire slab and realizing it only when it is too late.
Moving on to the brush, make sure that their bristles are stiff so that you can scrub the slab vigorously. But that does not mean that you select a wire brush! If you do, that might leave permanent scratches on the concrete.
After you are done using soap and water, if the stain is still present, it means that you have to experiment with something else to get rid of it. In such an instance, you can give graffiti removers a try!
Graffiti removing materials effectively penetrate the paint structure and loosen its grip from the concrete or other surfaces. They are available in the market in various forms, such as wipes, pastes, aerosol cans, and even liquid solutions. To use it in the best way, we suggest that you carefully read the instructions on the label.
What You’ll Need
Before you start with the process, there are a few items that you have to buy. As you can already guess, the first and foremost thing that you would need is a graffiti remover. For this, select any variety that you desire and your budget permits.
Apart from that, you will require a brush with stiff bristles, warm water, one bucket, and disposable cloths or absorbent paper towels. Do not forget to get some protective gear before starting with the process. And like the previous method, if your affected area is outdoors, get hold of a garden hose.
How To Do It
The first step in the process is to clean the area to remove unwanted grime and dirt. And since this process involves chemical materials, it is best to put your protective gears on soon.
And once that is done, apply the graffiti remover on the affected areas. But before applying, read the label carefully so that you add it in the proper proportions. When done, let the mixture sit for a while. After that, take the stiff bristle brush to scrub the area clean and take the paint off by moving the brush in a circular motion.
As the paint starts coming off the concrete, use a disposable piece of cloth or a paper towel to wipe the area. Apply warm water from the bucket to give it a final rub, and use a hose if the concrete slab is outside your house.
The ideal thing to do is to keep repeating the process until the paint is entirely removed. If you are working inside the house, consider mopping the area one more time once you are done.
Pros and Cons
It is true that you do not need to break the bank to buy a graffiti remover. They are generally inexpensive, and you get plenty of options to choose from. And even though they are chemical products, they are not too harsh. Definitely not as strong as paint thinners.
If you use it judiciously, two to three scrubs should be good enough to get the paint off from the concrete unless it’s years old!
A significant drawback to this method is that it is pretty time-consuming. And we suggest that you do not start with the process when you are in a hurry. Depending on the remover you use, it might take 20 minutes or more between two applications before scrubbing away the colors.
And as we have mentioned before, it does require multiple applications to show its effectiveness.
Considerations
Before you start applying the graffiti remover, study the surface well. If it is vertical, keep in mind that trigger sprays will make the paint slowly drip down, causing the color to spread further.
To avoid such a situation, make sure that you do not oversaturate. And to stop the paint from spreading, you can consider using painter’s tape and plastic sheets. It is simple, and all you have to do is tape the surface under the paint and attach a drop cloth to prevent the area from run-offs.
And as we have mentioned before, graffiti removers are chemical products, so do not forget to put your protective gears on!
Strippers and thinners are highly effective in breaking down or ‘thinning’ the paint on various surfaces, even concrete.
Paint thinners come in solvent forms, which means that they can efficiently dissolve substances, and paint is no different. Besides thinners, there are other solvents that people use to remove paint, such as turpentine, denatured alcohol, acetone, and the likes.
Even though paint strippers are manufactured differently than paint thinners, they are also ideal for getting rid of the paint. They are available in two forms mainly: non-caustic variants that won’t harm your skin and chemical solvent-based formulas.
What You’ll Need
To begin with, you’ll need to get your hands on an effective paint stripper or a thinner. There are many options that are available in the market. Other than that, what you will need is a piece of clean disposable cloth and gear to protect you while working.
How To Do It
By now, you should know what the first step is. Yes, you guessed it right! Take a piece of cloth and wipe the affected area clean to ensure that there is no dirt.
Before you start with the process, it is essential that you check the working area to see if the ventilation is good and that you’re protected. Since you are working with strong chemicals, it is crucial that you take proper care to avoid accidents.
Make sure that you read the label carefully and go through the instructions minutely. This will help you understand in what proportions you should apply the solvent. Following the guideline, apply the thinner to the affected portions of the concrete. Use a clean piece of cloth to wipe the paint off once you are done.
Repeat the process a few times until the color comes off entirely.
Pros and Cons
If you are removing paint off concrete for the first time, going ahead with this process is a good idea. It does not involve using any materials that are too expensive and does not require high-level skills to ace the game. The application and cleaning process is relatively simple!
However, it does pose some danger unless you are careful. Paint strippers and thinners are mostly solvents and are thus flammable. So, make sure that you keep them away from heat sources and do not use them to light candles or smoke a cigarette around them.
And if you are working indoors, you will have to be more cautious as the vapor stays and travels through the house for a long time.
Moreover, they can leave a damaging impact on your skin. So, it is not just enough to wear gloves when working with these solvents. We recommend that you use a cloth to cover your entire arm.
Considerations
First and foremost, your safety is of utmost importance to us, and we recommend that you keep the area well ventilated when working with thinners. Make sure that you cover your nose, mouth, and all exposed areas of the body well. Unless you take proper care, these elements have the capacity to affect your respiratory system and skin too.
It is a good idea to go for soy gel strippers as they are a more organic way to get rid of the paint. The advantage of using this is that you can avoid the unpleasant pungent odor and the risk of damaging your skin.
Coming to paint thinners, you can take the help of cloth to easily blot the affected area on the concrete instead of applying it directly. Using this technique helps you to gain better control.
And if the surface you are applying it on is vertical, do not forget to protect it from run-offs with painter’s tape and plastic drop cloths.
Moving on, one good way to replace paint thinner is using mineral spirits. Comparatively, they smell less than thinners and have a good history of successfully getting rid of paints.
The deeper we go into this list, the stronger the chemicals become. On a scale, this is somewhere in the middle and is an effective solution. TSP, or trisodium phosphate, is a proven chemical used for paint removal.
There are many variants that are available online. However, if you do not want to wait for long, it is best to get it from a local hardware store. When you hit the market, you will find that TSPs come in two forms: liquid and powder. Take the one that suits your requirements the best.
What You’ll Need
It goes without saying that you will need a good quality TSP, either in liquid or powder form. Besides that, the other things required are a stiff brush, one big bucket, one small bucket, and warm water. Do not by any chance undermine the importance of protective gear while using this. So, don’t forget to get your hands on some safety goggles, work gloves, and a mask.
How To Do It
First things first, make sure that you clean the affected area well before you proceed with this method. Unless it is free of dirt and grime, the chances are high that the TSP won’t function properly.
After that, cover yourself with protective gears to ensure that the chemical has no detrimental impact on you. Follow the instructions and put the product label to the T to understand how to dilute it well. This is a very crucial step, and you cannot afford to mess up here as that might damage the concrete.
Now dip the brush in the solution and scrub the affected concrete well with it. Let the solution sit on the stone for around 25-minutes before you scrub it again. Do it a few times before cleaning the area with warm water.
If you are working outside the house, using a hose is a good idea to help you get the job done considerably fast. Keep repeating the process until the paint ultimately comes off the surface. And to give it the final polish, wipe it with a paper towel or a piece of dry cloth.
Pros and Cons
There’s hardly any doubt that using TSP is one of the ideal ways to remove color stains from concrete or other surfaces effectively. And the best part is that it is readily available in the market, comparatively cheap, and does not require the skills of a scientist to dilute it and apply. If you want to find a shortcut, there are even no-rinse TSP options available, and you can give them a try!
However, TSP suffers from one significant downside: it is a toxic solution. So, it is mandatory that you take utmost precautions when using it.
Some local governments have banned the use of TSP completely, and some have restricted the extent of use. It is a good idea to check the regulations to make sure you are breaking no laws.
Considerations:
Homeowners will unanimously agree that TSP is a great agent and acts as one of the most effective cleaners and paint removers. And it is equally excellent when it comes to dealing with old paint stains.
But you should not forget that the chemical included in it is highly toxic, and thus you should handle it accordingly. It can cause severe damage to the environment through surface runoffs. So, we suggest that you give alternatives like borax powder a try. It is not as strong as TSP, though.
Moreover, we recommend that you not use TSP on windy days if applying outdoors. The wind may carry the product to the nearby trees and plants and cause irreversible damage to them. You should try to confine the product to the affected area as much as possible.
Moving on, TSP has a strong odor and can damage your lungs if inhaled directly. To avoid such problems, always put on your respirator mask before commencing with the work.
One added tip, TSP, and pressure washer make a powerful combination in getting rid of paint stains. And that takes us to the following method we have on our list.
A pressure washer or a power washer is a piece of equipment that sprays a concentrated, fast squirt of water. This is a great way to remove stains and substances from various surfaces. And it works very effectively when it comes to getting rid of spray paint from concrete.
What You’ll Need
For this, you have to do some basic research to figure out whether you should buy an electric or a gas power washer. Apart from that, you will require big plastic sheets and waterproof clothes. And last but not least, do not forget to get yourself some protective gear.
How To Do It
The first thing you have to do without fail is to put the gears on to protect yourself from unwanted harm. After that, please read the instructions on the washer label carefully and assemble it.
Make sure that you choose the desired nozzle depending on the stain size. Now stand 10 feet away from the area and point the jet straight at the stain. Keep changing the spraying angle and apply it back and forth on the concrete. Repeat the process until the paint is entirely removed.
Pros and Cons
This method is ideal for users who want to remove paint stains from large concrete pieces. Because you do not have to do it manually, it saves time and effort too. And if you end up combining it with TSP or a graffiti remover, you will see the results even faster.
Additionally, they help you save water. By replacing the garden hose with a pressure washer, you can save 80 percent extra water.
However, if you are on a tight budget, this might not be the perfect option for you. Power washers are expensive devices, and you need to either invest in buying them or renting one. And it will take you some practice to understand how to operate it best.
Considerations:
Pressure washers generally come with a set of nozzles that are color-coded to indicate the force of the water stream. If you are using it to remove paint, go with size 15. It is ideal for getting rid of color stains. However, if the paint is too stubborn, you can start with size 40 and slowly notch it down.
When opting for a device, make sure that its capacity ranges between 2,000 to 3,000 psi. The gas and electric variants come with varied capacities, and you must choose one that offers the right amount of power needed for paint removal.
Before you start working with it, make sure that the water flow is good. If it is not, then the sprayer won’t have the adequate power to remove the spray paint off the concrete.
Additionally, take your time and do not rush when you are working with power washers. And ensure that you do not stand too close to the affected area and keep a minimum distance of 10 feet. You can, however, gradually move closer to get the best results.
Also, it is important that you keep in mind that this is a powerful tool that releases strong water jets. Protecting yourself with gears and having a solid grip on the sprayer at all times is an absolute must. If you are not careful, the water jet can slice through your skin.
When you are using it, the best thing to do is keep the pets and kids away to ensure their safety. We always recommend that you take some training before you start using a pressure washer. And with so many tutorial videos available on the internet, it is hardly a task anymore.
To make use of this process, you need to acquire some skills first. If you have not used a sandblaster before, you’ll surely need some training. It has the capacity to remove concrete layers, so you understand that knowing the proper techniques is essential.
In case it is not done correctly, it might damage the concrete permanently.
What You’ll Need
For this purpose, you will need a sandblaster, ideally a portable one with a power of 50 psi. Apart from that, what is required is sandblasting media such as coarse sandblasting sand.
Once you have gathered these things, get hold of a dry-wet vacuum (suitable for indoor/ outdoor activity) or a power washer (outdoor purposes). And most importantly, do not forget your protective gear.
How To Do It
First and foremost, check if the protective gears are adequately secured to ensure that your skin and respiratory system encounter no harm. Now place yourself 1 foot far from the area that is affected and switch on the sandblaster.
Once you turn it on, adjust the nozzle and use it back and forth to target the affected area. Keep doing this until the paint starts coming off. After that, use the vacuum cleaner to clean the concrete dust left behind after you are done.
If you are cleaning a concrete slab outdoors, you can even use a power washer to clean the area.
Pros and Cons
What we like most about this product is that it is effective and does not consume much time. If you are familiar with using a sandblaster, it will be a cakewalk.
However, we must warn you that it is a pretty expensive process. You will either need to buy the equipment or rent one, depending on your convenience. And it also generates a lot of dust and requires heavy vacuuming, adding to a lot of extra work. Getting a suitable vacuum further adds to the expenses.
Additionally, keep in mind that this method is only suitable for people with advanced technical skills. If you have never used a sandblaster before, we recommend that you take training courses first.
Considerations:
As we have already mentioned, this equipment generates a lot of concrete dust. It is because it uses compressed air mixed with coarse sand to get rid of the topmost layer of the stained concrete.
So, it goes without saying that you have to ensure that you are well-protected not to encounter any harm from the powerful sandblaster. Nobody wants to get their skin pelted with sand particles or get coarse dust in their eyes. We recommend that you protect your entire body before starting with the work.
Also, we have noticed that it is best not to point it at a particular area for too long when using this device. You will get the best results when you keep moving the tool instead of focusing it on a point. If you do that, the chances are that the top layer of the concrete will suffer extreme damage.
Moreover, if you have no prior experience using this device, it is best to hire a professional who would get the job done with precision. You need proper knowledge about grit and air pressure to get the best result. In case you are not sure how it works, getting someone to help you is the best bet!
We have reached the end of our list, and there was no way we would have skipped out on this method. Angle grinders are one of the most effective methods to get spray paints removed from concrete surfaces.
It is pretty similar to a sander and allows you to attach various grit wheels in order to handle different projects. Again, we would say that you should skip this method unless you have prior experience of using this machine.
If not done correctly, the chances are that it will drastically alter the concrete surface structure. And if lady luck is not on your side, the damages might be permanent too.
What You’ll Need
For this purpose, you will require a good-quality angle grinder that comes with a shroud and a paint stripping wheel. Apart from that, you will need a vacuum cleaner or a pressure washer. And do not forget to get your hands on some protective gear while you are at it.
How To Do It
To begin, you need to ensure that the area is completely clean and devoid of dust or grime. Once you are done with wiping the place clean, put on your protective gears before proceeding further.
Move yourself a few feet away from the area that has the paint stain and switch the device on. Slowly move towards the spot and switch on the grinder. As you reach closer, press it lightly on the affected area and move it in a circular clockwise motion.
We recommend that you keep repeating the process until the stain comes off ultimately. Once it does, use the vacuum cleaner or the power washer to clean it.
Pros and Cons
For those familiar with using an angle grinder, removing paint stains will be a cakewalk. It is one of the quickest and most straightforward solutions for getting rid of stubborn spray paint stains from concrete. And as this method involves grinding color off the concrete surface, there’s no need for harsh chemicals.
However, a significant downside to this process is that it involves the use of heavy-duty equipment and thus calls for suitable protective gears. Now, these gears can drive a hole in your pockets as they are expensive.
Additionally, it requires advanced DIY skills to make use of this method. If not done correctly, you may end up causing permanent damage to the concrete. And once you are done, you will be left with a heap load of concrete dust, cleaning which is pretty labor-intensive.
Considerations:
Grinding and sandblasting are quite similar when it comes to generating dust. And for that reason, wearing a respirator for protecting your mouth and nose is an absolute must. We suggest that you also put on a well-fitted eye protector to avoid the dust from entering your eyes.
It is also a good idea to put on some heavy-duty gloves or padded clothing to prevent your hands from getting hurt. To reduce dust, there’s one good solution. You can attach a shroud with the grinder, which basically works as an in-built vacuum taking off the concrete dust.
Also, as we have mentioned before, grinding and sandblasting are pretty similar. So, it is best to not concentrate the equipment on a particular area for too long. Keep moving the tool in a circular clockwise motion.
And you have to either buy or rent a machine before you can start with the process. If purchasing one exceeds your budget, it is great to hire a professional who can help you with the task.
Moreover, it is good to keep a vacuum handy to ease your cleaning job once you remove the paint stain!
Things To Know
The processes will work the best only when you understand what you are getting into. You have to know the workings of the paints and the structure of the concrete.
Remember that concrete is highly absorbent because it is porous, so spray paints stain easily by reaching the deeper pockets of the stone. We recommend that you address the stain problem as soon as it happens to stop the color from entering deep into the layers.
That would just make it more challenging to get rid of the stain!
But while you are at it, do not forget to take care of the concrete. If you are not cautious, the paint-removing solutions might have a detrimental impact on the stone.
Make sure that you do not leave any chemical solution on the concrete for too long. Use a soap and water mix to wipe it off. Otherwise, it will start eating away at the concrete. Toxic chemicals that have the power to dissolve the paint can easily cause permanent damage to the stone.
And note that something that can dissolve concrete can easily affect your health too. While working with them, make sure that you do not come in direct contact with the chemicals and do not make the mistake of inhaling them.
Final Words
And that’s all we have for you today, friends.
We had great fun compiling all this information for you. And we hope that you could learn a good deal about removing spray paints from concrete surfaces from reading this comprehensive guide.
All these processes that we have mentioned are relatively simple to perform and will help you effectively get rid of the stains. However, some of them require some expert-level skills, nothing that a training course wouldn’t equip you with.
With that, it’s a wrap. Keep a watch on this space for more exciting reads. And write to us in the comments section below if you have any queries.
To be honest, leather is one of the most high-maintenance materials that you may have in your closet or around the house.
Be it your favorite leather jacket or a new pair of suede shoes, you always need to keep an eye on them to prevent damage. That's especially true for instances where you may accidentally spill something like glue on leather. This mostly happens when people try to fix leather items or glue leather to something like a shoe.
Worry not, as removing glue from leather isn’t as hard as it seems. In fact, the easiest way to remove glue from leather is by gently cleaning the hardened glue stain with a cotton soaked in acetone-based nail polish remover. Most of the time, good quality leather glue comes out very easily rather than other adhesives.
But there are other methods to get the job done as well. So, we thought of coming up with this guide to make removing glue from leather a tad easier for you. Glue spills might happen whether you are repairing your leather couch or fixing your leather car seat tear, so we’ve listed all the possible ways to remove glue from leather.
Without further ado, let's get started with how to remove glue from leather!
Simple Methods To Remove Glue From Leather
As we said already, cleaning glue from leather is easier than it seems. You only require some household items to remove something like super glue without damaging the leather. We have tried to mention some of the most simple ways used by leather enthusiasts. Just make sure to be gentle to the leather, particularly with suede items, to give them a long life.
1. Using Acetone-Based Nail Polish Remover
One of the easiest ways to remove super glue from leather is by using an acetone-based nail polish remover readily available on the market. Just be sure to test it on a less visible area of the leather to avoid the possibility of discoloration.
Let the super glue harden to form a stain
Saturate a cotton swab or cotton pad with the nail polish remover and rub it on the glue stain till it loosens
Once the stain has loosened, gently dab it using a folded dry paper towel or tissue to remove the glue
Soak a sponge in a mixture of warm water and mild soap to wipe the area where the glue stain had been sitting
You may apply a bit of leather conditioner to prevent the surface from becoming dry or brittle
Observe the leather surface after the water has evaporated to ensure that there's no glue residue
Repeat the process until the leather is free from all traces of glue
2. Using Sandpaper And Emery Board
At times, it can be pretty hard to get the glue off leather if the super glue stains are too thick or rigid. In that case, you may need something abrasive like sandpaper to wear away the super glue. This method is beneficial for suede as it tends to hold on to glue more than other leather surfaces.
Use a fine sandpaper or emery board to file away the hardened super glue from the leather gently
Removal of the stain may take a while, so try not to use a technique that might be damaging
Stop filing once you reach the bare leather surface
Vacuum or brush away the glue dust resulting from the glue removal
Check if any further glue is left on the leather
Use the acetone-based nail polish removal process to dilute and take off the remnant glue
You can wipe the surface with a leather cleaner to preserve its health and look as a final step
3. Using Soapy Water
Have you just spilled some super glue on your leather couch? Don't panic; take a soft cloth or sponge and a bowl of warm water mixed with dish soap to remove glue from the leather item. This technique specifically works for minor, fresh glue stains. You can also use the soapy water method with other glue removal techniques to clear away the final traces of dried glue from leather.
Pour some dish soap into a bowl of warm water and agitate the mixture until it lathers
Dip a soft clean cloth into the soapy mixture and lay it over the affected area
Let the soaked cloth sit on the leather furniture or other leather items for at least an hour so that the glue can loosen up
After an hour, carefully use a circular motion to remove the adhesive
Next, rinse the soft cloth with warm water to wipe away any glue residue present on the leather surface
Then, use a dry cloth to remove excess moisture from the leather
Finish off by applying a small amount of leather conditioner to the location once it's dry to keep it nourished
4. Using White Vinegar
Another recommended method to remove glue from leather is using white vinegar, which is usually present in our kitchens. You can use a toothbrush with vinegar to gently wear away the strong adhesive from most leather surfaces, including leather shoes.
Make a mixture of one part white vinegar and one part warm water in a bowl
Dip a soft-bristled toothbrush into the mixture and gently scrub the glue spot in a circular motion
Use a clean fabric to dab the excess moisture and wipe away the glue residue
Check for any leftover glue and repeat the process if necessary
Once the surface is dry, use a leather conditioner to make it shiny and prevent cracking
5. Using Lemon Oil
It may come as a surprise, but lemon oil works as an excellent super glue remover. The essential oil doesn't cause any discoloration, so you can safely use it on suede leather shoes or your leather wearables. Plus, the oil leaves your leather items with a refreshing scent.
Take a bit of lemon oil on a cotton ball and place it at the location of the glue stain
Let the cotton ball sit for five to ten minutes for the glue to loosen
Then, you may use the edge of a nail file to lift the glue from the leather surface
If the adhesive is too stubborn, reapply a bit more lemon oil and leave it on the stain for five more minutes
Once all the glue has been removed, dip a towel in warm soapy water and clean the leather surface to remove glue and oil residue
Finally, use a dry towel to absorb any moisture and apply some fabric conditioner to protect the leather from drying or cracking
How To Remove Glue From Leather Final Words
That's everything we had to tell you about how to remove glue from leather. We hope that this guide will help you to retain the health of your leather items even if it accidentally gets in touch with super glue.
Other than the above-mentioned methods, some chemical-based super glue removers are available on the market. But, you have to be careful while using them as some can damage and discolor leather products.
Having said that, at times, you may find it extremely difficult to remove glue from leather. We suggest seeking help from a professional leather cleaning service in such situations.
Until next time, goodbye, and take care!
You can remove the wheel from your angle grinder by hand or using simple tools like a hammer and chisel. But you must be very careful to ensure there are no injuries or damages caused to the angle grinder.
So, you want to change the wheel of your angle grinder, but have lost the key or wrench to unlock the blade? Or, have you misplaced the factory spanner that came in the package. We get it- it can be downright frustrating to lose things when you need them the most!
But did you know that it’s actually possible to remove the wheel even when you don’t have the right tool handy? Yes- you heard that right! Dive in to know how to remove the angle grinder disc without a tool.
What Are Angle Grinders?
For people who may be new angle grinders, let us just quickly introduce them.
These are essentially handheld power tools that use rotating angle grinder discs or wheels for cutting, grinding, polishing, or deburring metal, concrete, porcelain, and other materials.
You will usually find two types of angle grinders- one that needs to be bolted down so it won't move while being used; and the portable cordless models. The cordless angle grinder is one of the most convenient tools as it can be used anywhere. But both cordless and corded angle grinder come with a locking nut to ensure the wheel doesn’t get displaced.
Furthermore, an angle grinder has a housing around its motor shaft with openings for different accessories such as an angle grinder disk and cut-off wheels, as well as a guard over these openings to protect users from injury caused by sparks flying off during operation.
Why Use An Angle Grinder?
As mentioned above, an angle grinder is a powerful hand tool that can be used to cut, shape, and polish metal. The high-speed rotary action of the grinder nut makes it ideal for completing many tasks including removing rust from tools or household items like the fridge door handle.
In hindsight, the efficiency of the grinder depends largely on the type of blade being used. For instance, a diamond-tipped blade may be more suitable for cutting tiles. Likewise, a serrated blade may be a better choice for making curved cuts.
Is An Angle Grinder The Same As A Polisher?
You can attach a polishing pad to the grinder and use it at a low speed in case a polisher isn’t available. However, you must not confuse an angle grinder with a polisher.
Now, some readers may be asking “what’s the difference between an angle grinder and a polisher?” Well, the grinding process of an angle grinder is used to reduce the thickness of the material without damaging it. Polishing, on the other hand, is about smoothing the surface.
Remember that a grinder may be used as a polisher, but it doesn’t happen the other way round.
Another thing to keep in mind is that you may use the tool without its guard in some circumstances, such as when you are grinding down metal on a workbench. However, this is a dangerous practice and should only be done if necessary.
To ensure safety, always check that the guards are in place before using the grinder. If any guard is broken, refrain from using the tool until it is replaced with one that fits properly and is securely in place.
On that note, you can replace a damaged or missing guard by first unplugging the tool. Then, remove any existing guards by loosening them with an Allen wrench (the type of wrench that has handles on either side).
Finally, replace the damaged or missing guards with new ones by sliding them into place and tightening them down firmly so they stay secure during operation.
Steps To Remove Angle Grinder Wheel Without A Tool
Step 1- Unplug the Power Cord From The Power Outlet
First and foremost, always unplug the power cord of the angle grinder from the wall outlet. This step should be followed whenever you’re replacing parts or cleaning it.
Step-2 Remove The Locking Nut
As you may have already figured out, the lock nut holds the disc in place and needs to be taken off so that you can replace it. It has a lock button located on the disc guard, which sits between the body of the angle grinder and the wheel.
However, if this button gets stuck, then you will have to do it manually. And there are a few ways to do so.
Option 1
Firstly, grab two bolts that exactly fit the two holes of the locking nut. However, make sure you lock the position of the wheel by pressing on the lock button located behind it (on the top of the grinder body). You need to keep the button pressed to prevent the wheel from coming off. So, it may be a good idea to call someone for help.
Next, use a pair of pliers to get a grip on the bolts and start rotating them counterclockwise. You can also use an adjustable wrench for this step, depending on what you have handly. Or, secure a pair of vice grips around the bolts and rotate them in the opposite (counterclockwise) direction.
Option 2
If you don’t have the above-mentioned tools handy, then you can try removing the locking nut with the hammer and chisel method.
Insert the chisel with an angle into one of the holes of locking the nut, one by one. Then, tap it with the hammer so that the chisel rotates to mimic the action of a wrench. Do it on the other side if required.
This method has a high chance of damaging the wheel and the nut holes, so ensure you don’t apply too much pressure.
Option 3
If nothing else is available, put on a pair of work gloves and hit the disc with your palm in a direction opposite to the wheel’s rotation. Again, be very careful while using this procedure as you may injure yourself and damage the disc.
A pro tip: you can pour a few drops of oil on the locking nut to help loosen it easily. However, don’t put too much; otherwise, you won’t be able to grip it properly.
Alternatively, you can try turning it in the same direction (clockwise) some more, which may help create some pressure. But don’t tighten it too much, as it may mess the alignment of the nut. Then, rotate it in the opposite direction.
Option 4
Another option to remove the nut without any tool (or your gloved hands) is to use a long iron rod that comfortably fits the locking nut hole. Once you do that, hit the top of the rod with a hammer or your palm until it starts moving the nut in the opposite direction.
If this doesn’t work, use two iron rods and insert them in the locking nut holes. Tie them with a rope and hit the “tied top” the same way. This should do the job.
Step-3 Press And Hold The Spindle Lock Button
If your angle grinder has a standard spindle lock button or a spindle shaft, simply press and hold the lock button located in its center. This will allow you to rotate the drive bolt of the disc in the opposite direction of its rotation, which will loosen it from its socket without damaging the retaining nut.
How To Replace The Wheel?
Once the angle grinder nut comes off, you can easily remove the wheel and insert a new one according to the needs of the project.
In older angle grinders, the wheel may become too stuck to be removed, so you may have to break them completely. Do this carefully as you wouldn’t want to damage any other parts on the tool.
After inserting the wheel in the drive bolt, rotate the locking nut in the opposite direction (i.e. clockwise this time). You can do this with your hands, as tightening the lock is easier than removing it. Continue doing this until the wheel is firmly in place.
If you have trouble doing this, start by turning it slightly counterclockwise until you can get some leverage before continuing clockwise.
When Should You Change The Grinder Wheel?
“Obviously, when the current wheel doesn’t meet the needs of the task at hand,” is what you may think is the answer to this question. However, let us tell you that it’s not the only time when changing the wheel should be your priority.
Your angle grinder may give you subtle signals about the “expiry” of the wheel, so look out for:
A sudden drop in the cutting speed
Unusual noises when the tool is switched on or while working with it
Strong vibrations with squeaky noises
Some Other Tips
To use your grinder safely, we’d recommend using both hands, which will facilitate better control and precision. However, do not keep your hands or fingers anywhere near the disc, as it can lead to disastrous consequences. And don’t operate the grinder without wearing gloves.
Aside from that, you should pay attention to the maintenance needs of the grinder.
One of the first and most important things to do in this regard is keeping it clean by removing any dust or debris.
Ideally, you should wipe it thoroughly with a clean cloth or use a soft bristle brush to eliminate dust after every use. Give the tool some time to cool down after being switched off, and don’t touch the wheel with bare hands.
Furthermore, you should keep the tool properly greased to reduce the chances of friction, making it perform optimally. And run a visual check to detect any cracks or loose guards before working with it.
How To Remove Angle Grinder Wheel Without Tool Conclusion
With that, we hope we’re leaving you well equipped to change the wheel of your angle grinder the DIY way.
But here’s one piece of advice. If you aren’t confident about your DIY skills or you think breaking the wheel can damage the rest of the tool, contact the brand. If the device is covered under the brand warranty, getting it serviced will be hassle-free.
And while attempting the job on your own, make sure you wear the required protective gear to prevent the risk of injuries. This includes putting on work gloves and an eye protector.
If the swimming pool was a living organism, the pool pump would be its heart. A pool pump needs to function properly for the water in the swimming pool to remain clean and safe.
While many of the pool pumps that are available today self-prime, which means they can generate water flow after turning on automatically, some pumps require manual priming before they can be turned on.
Therein lies the rub. In manual pool pumps air tends to enter the piping of the pool. Whenever that happens, the pool pump is said to “lose prime.”
How to Prime a Pool Pump
Importance of Keeping the Pump Fully Primed
The pump of the swimming pool is going to dictate its entire function. Needless to say, the learning system of the swimming pool is not able to operate at an optimal level if the main pump isn’t functioning properly.
Apart from that, without the main pump, the pool water is unable to get filtered, which can result in unclean and dangerously unhealthy water in the swimming pool. This is why it is important to ensure that the pool pump is functioning efficiently and has been primed properly.
When the pump of the pool’s filtration system has been properly primed, all of the components of the filtration system such as the piping, filter and the pump itself are filled with water. The pool pump is then able to suck the water from the pool, which is then pushed back into the pool via the pool returns.
To prime a pool pump, one needs to first purge all of the air from the pool’s pumping system before filling both the piping and the pump with water.
The number of steps that are required to prime a pump is mainly going to depend on the amount of water that’s needed in the suction side of the lines, as in, the water that’s entering from the pool to the pumping system.
Priming the Pool Pump
When it comes to swimming pools, the word ‘prime’ means the state where all of the air has been removed from the water filtration pump of the swimming pool, which allows the pump to circulate water through the pool’s filtration system. When a swimming pool’s pump is no longer able to pump water, it is said to lose its “prime.”
The following procedure of priming a swimming pool water filter pump assumes that there’s no water at all present in the pump or the pipes at the time. So, let’s get started.
Switch Off the Swimming Pool Pump
This might seem like the obvious first step that needs to be taken to prime a pool pump, but you’d be surprised how many people make the mistake of skipping this process, which results in unnecessary expense to repair the damage.
The reason you have to turn off the swimming pool filtration pump is that the pump is an electrical system, which is why you need to maintain safety at all times. Besides, you wouldn’t do any other electric repairing work without turning off the switch first, would you?
So, now we have cleared why you need to exercise caution when it comes time to prime the swimming pool filtration pump, here are the steps you will need to take during the process.
STEP 1 –After you’ve switched off the pump you will need to close all of the valves that are located on the suction side of the filtration pump. This is also going to include the valves for the vacuum lines, the skimmer, and the main drain.
STEP 2 –If your swimming pool filtration pump already has an air relief valve built into it you will need to open it to release any pressure that has built up in the pump and the piping system.
STEP 3 –Open the strainer lid of the filtration pump. Be careful to do this slowly.
STEP 4 –If the swimming pool filtration pump does not have an air relief valve then you will have to open up the lid of the strainer just a little bit to release any built-up pressure.
Inspection/Replacement of Broke or Damaged Parts
STEP 1 –First you will have to inspect the hair strainer basket and make sure it is clean. Also, make sure that the basket is not damaged in any way. If the basket does look damaged, then inspect the impeller of the pump for any debris. To avoid damaging the pump its best to replace the basket.
STEP 2 –After that, you will need to thoroughly inspect the gasket or the O-ring of the strainer top to make sure that it’s clean and not damaged. This is so it can maintain its seal, which is crucial for the efficient functioning of the pool pump.
STEP 3 – If necessary, use this opportunity to replace the basket and fill up the strainer with water with the help of a garden hose. When filling the basket with water, it is important to do it slowly to ensure that the water can reach the piping. What you want is the piping that goes from the skimmer into the filtration pump to be filled with water so that it can create a proper suction.
STEP 4 – Once you have thoroughly inspected the basket and the strainer it is time to put back the lid of the strainer and make sure that it is tightly sealed.
Switch the Pump On
STEP 1 – If there are any knobs, they need to be tightened properly by hand. It is important not to use a wrench or some other tool to tighten these knobs so that it is not overtightened, which can result in the premature damage of the knobs.
STEP 2 –Now you can turn on the pump and then slowly open only one of the valves that are present on the suction side.
STEP 3 – You will need to wait for a good flow of water going to prime the pump.
What If the Pump Does Not Prime?
While the steps mentioned above should be enough to prime a pool pump and get your swimming pool’s filtration pump running again, if you find that the pump does not prime then you should let it sit for a few minutes before trying again.
STEP 1 –Reopen the strainer of the pump to relieve any pressure on the filter. You can also do this by slowly opening the lid of the strainer so that any built-in pressure has a way to escape.
STEP 2 –Now that you’ve bled out any pressure from the system, refill it with water via the strainer and close the lid.
STEP 3 – Now, switch on the swimming pool filtration pump and open the same valve slowly.
STEP 4 – You may have to repeat these steps several times before the pump begins to prime again. It is important to note that you will have to purge all of the built-up air in the system to get the water moving again.
Open the Other Valve
Once you have found that the pump is prime, it is time to open up the other valve that is located on the suction side of the swimming pool filtration system. To do that you must:
STEP 1 – Pay attention by listening closely to the air that’s being pulled out of the line.
STEP 2 – If you notice that the filtration pump is starting to lose its prime you must close the valve immediately.
STEP 3 – Take as much time you need to bleed all of the air out of the lines.
STEP 4 – You will have to repeat the same process with all of the other lines as well.
PRO TIP #1
If you have been noticing that the pump loses its prime whenever you turn off the pump, then you should try to release the air that’s present in the filter first. This is especially the case if there is an air relief valve present in the filter system. It is important to remember that this should be done before the pump has been turned on.
To make sure it works, close the valves that are present on the suction-side of the filtration system before you open the lid of the strainer. This is going to help in holding the water up to the valve, which will make re-priming the pump a lot easier.
PRO TIP #2
It is not unheard of for there to be leaks in the pipe that leads to the filtration pump. To find out if there is, in fact, a leak in the piping that goes into the pump, all you have to do is grab a can of shaving cream and spray it all over the pipe that’s leading into the filtration pump. If you notice that the shaving cream is being sucked into the pipe from a particular area after the pumps’ been turned on, you’re probably dealing with a leakage.
If all else fails, it is never too late to call in an expert who can help find the problem for you. More often than not, repairs in a swimming pool filtration system can only be done by a professional, especially if you can’t seem to find the problem yourself.
How to Prime a Pool Pump Conclusion
The aforementioned information should help you prime a pool pump and get the water flowing through the swimming pool pump and filtration system again.
It is important to note that if you are going to install a new pool system in your home, then there is obviously not going to be any water present in the piping, in which case, you will have to use some of these steps either once or several times to prime the pool pump before it can be turned on.
Has the fear of dripping paint over your carpet stopped you from painting trims? Well, there are ways to paint trims, even with carpets installed.
You might be wondering how to paint the trim if you have a new and fluffy carpet installed on the floors. Rest assured, a tidy and leak-proof paint job is possible for all types of flooring!
Painting the trim or baseboard completes the fresh and finished look of the room. And usually, with wooden flooring, painting is relatively easy. But with carpet flooring, it becomes a little more complicated.
Although it might not be the easiest thing to do, it's possible. Don't let the carpet get in the way of your trim painting process. Just put on your DIY hat and follow this guide.
These steps will help you navigate even in the trickiest of carpet situations, so read on!
What You Need to Know Before Painting Trims
There are a few basic things to consider before we get into the stepwise process of painting. You need to know the type of trim and carpet on the floor, which painting method to follow, and the supplies required. Let's get into the details of each aspect.
Type Of Trim And Carpet
It's essential to know and understand the space you are working with when you are painting trims. Consider the type of flooring; which type of carpet is it?
If the carpet is thin with short threads, processes like taping it will make the job easier. If it is a very fluffy carpet, the regular tape might not be enough to cover the edges. In that case, alternative options like thicker tape or tapes with low adhesive strength will be required.
The kind of paint used will differ according to the trim material. Most trims are made of wood, but trims/baseboards can also be made of other materials such as PVC. So, the kind of paint applied will also differ.
Method Of Painting
Some methods involve removing the trim or baseboards entirely and then painting them. Then, they are dried and reattached to the walls. It sounds like a tedious job that will take days to complete.
Another option is to lift the carpet, finish painting, and then put it back in place. Again, removing the embedded carpet consists of a lot of manual work. Also, if you have just installed a new carpet, you might not want to remove it just for painting trims.
Yet others prefer the skill of freehand painting. This method is acceptable if you are a seasoned and confident painter. However, for most people, the taping method may be ideal. A painter’s tape is stuck on the trim, after which it is painted. We will discuss the method in this guide.
Supplies Required
DIY painters cannot beautify trims without the necessary equipment. Here is a list of things you will need -
So, are you wondering how to paint the trims flawlessly without damaging your carpet? Don’t worry; take a look at these steps that may help prevent it.
Clean The Area
First of all, clean the area thoroughly before picking up your paintbrushes. Make sure you scrub the dirt and dust away with a microfiber cloth or sandpaper. Removing tough stains and grime is essential for the fresh coat of paint to spread evenly on the trim.
If there are any loose bits of old paint or an uneven surface, it can be leveled and smoothened with a few scrubs. Don't leave dust, old pieces of color, and wood chippings on the carpet. Vacuum carefully to clean it up before moving to the next step.
Caulk The Trim
Caulking the trim is not essential, but it will give an even and polished finish. Molding caulk also fills up the uneven surface and seals the cracks and gaps in the wall and trim. It helps paint to spread quickly without creating any displeasing bumps and fissures.
In general, it works well on wooden trims. But there shouldn't be any problem, even if your baseboard is made of PVC. Apply the caulk with your finger throughout the surface of the trim and wipe it out with a clean cloth. You can also use a wet sponge to apply it and wipe off the excess caulk.
Select A Brush
There are a couple of options for painting trims, the most common being a regular nylon paintbrush. Bristle brushes, foam brushes, roller pads, and roller brushes are also commonly used. Some people prefer foam brushes since they are easy for beginners to use, but this is entirely a personal preference.
If you have no prior experience with painting, a bristle brush might be challenging to operate. The fibers might cause uneven lines across the trim and end up looking unpleasant. In such cases, it is recommended to use a smaller size brush or a foam roller - because a bulky brush isn't for everyone. A 2 to 3-inch wide brush is good enough for painting trims.
Paint The Trim Near Carpet In 3 Steps
Let's begin with the three-step guide on how to paint trims near the carpet area.
Step 1: Tape The Area and Carpet
Firstly, make sure to select a painter's tape which leaves no residue on the carpet. It's important to use tape that protects your carpet from paint and does not damage it when you peel it off. A masking tape or painter's duct tape should be fine for protecting the edges of the trim and the flooring.
If you want to avoid a sticky mess, use small pieces of tape. Create sections of the area or wall to trim and apply the painter's duct tape in 3 or 4-inch sections. Then, lay the painter's tape firmly on the floor, flat at the edge.
A small portion of the tape should be on the trim, and the remaining should be on the carpet. At this point, check if the tape is completely covering the carpet at the edge near the trim.
Now use a putty knife or butter knife to push the edge of the tape into the carpet. The bottom of the trim can be exposed but make sure the edges of the carpet are entirely covered with the tape.
If you are worried about spilling beyond the tape, place an old cloth beneath the area you are about to paint. This will catch any stray drops and splashes while you are painting.
Step 2: Correctly Dipping The Brush
Once that is done, make sure to prime the trim before painting, as any previously used paint might have some oily residue. If not removed, the new paint color will not stick easily to the surface.
Ideally, select a primer that will easily stick on oil paint. There are paints specifically designed for trim painting. If you choose this option, keep in mind that they can be more expensive than regular paint.
Firstly, dip the brush in paint and wipe off one side of the excess paint. This is a pretty important step when it comes to painting as you should try and avoid having excess paint on your brush. It is likely to drop all over the trim and even beyond the tape, which you have carefully placed.
So, ensure that you must wipe the brush and remove any excess paint before you move toward the surface of the trim. Be careful not to soak the roller sponge or brush excessively in paint, or else it will drip all over your carpet.
Step 3: Paint
Now apply paint to the trim using smooth brush strokes. Move your brush from left to right (or right to left) in one stroke instead of many tiny strokes. This uninterrupted stroke will give a smoother finish to the surface.
After a few strokes, you may better understand how much paint you should pick up on the brush to get good coverage without spilling. A quick tip - before painting the entire trim, create an outline that separates it from the wall for better control while painting.
By doing this, you are ensuring that there is no leakage of paint above the trim. Once the outline is made, paint the entire base of the trim. One section can be covered using two or three even strokes.
Again keep a rag close in case there is a splatter of paint. Ensure that you wait until the first coat is dry before applying the second or even third coat. If you're wondering how many coats of paint are required on the trim - usually two or three coats should be good enough to get a neat finish.
Care After Painting
Once the paint is dry, pull off the tape. Moreover, check that fresh paint is not peeled off in the process. Also, ensure that there is no leakage of color (which is possible if the paint is still wet.)
If you want to make sure that there is no paint leakage, wait for the paint to dry overnight or for two days before removing the painter's duct tape. Once the paint is dry, remove the duct tape and clean it with a clean brush if there is any dried residue.
Conclusion
That was our detailed DIY guide on how to paint trims if you have carpets on the floors. Following these steps will indeed get you fresh trims with unspoiled carpets in a matter of hours.
With the method mentioned here, it should take 2 to 4 hours to paint, depending on the size of the room. And what's more, there is no need to spend hundreds of dollars on hiring a professional to paint the trims of your house.
The type of carpet won’t be an issue anymore to neglect painting the trims in your house! So, when are you picking up that paintbrush to freshen those trims?
Paris is a city renowned for its beauty and charm, and one of the most iconic landmarks that capture its essence is Le Consulat café.
The quaint establishment, located in the charming neighborhood of Montmartre, has been popular among artists, writers, and intellectuals for over a century. Want to grab breakfast with friends? Head over to Le Consulat. Looking for a subject for your next art project? Grab a seat outside the café and recreate the Parisian gem on paper!
It’s adorned with vibrant red and green hues, the color combo that screams “Pa-ree!” As such, capturing the beauty of Le Consulat in watercolor will surely be a rewarding process, even for beginners. With the right materials and techniques, you can create a stunning painting that pays homage to this iconic café and the city of Paris itself.
So, without further ado, let’s get started…
Painting Paris Le Consulat In Watercolor
The right tools can make all the difference when it comes to creating a successful work of art. So, I suggest using a comfortable paintbrush that offers durability and versatility. You should also consider investing in good-quality watercolor paints that offer a consistent texture and high pigmentation, you can read more about the types of watercolor paints here.
That said, here’s what I’ll be using for painting the legendary café:
Paint: Kuretake Gansai Tambi Watercolors 12 color | Paper: Saunders Waterford Watercolor Paper - White, 300gsm | Brush: Raphael Kolinsky Sable Fine Point Round Brush 8404
First off, sketch a basic outline of the Le Consulat building on your paper. Although I’m using watercolor paper, you can use your sketchbook or just any paper that’s thick enough to hold watercolors.
As for the pencil, I’m sticking to my “holy grail” - a light-colored pencil! The soft tip of colored pencils helps me create a light sketch, visible enough to act as a guide while I paint. On the contrary, if you use a regular pencil, you may end up with harsh lines, which may be difficult to hide beneath sheer watercolors.
Slowly, I’ll add some details while sketching. I don’t do this often and simply draw a rough sketch. However, considering the various intricate elements of this café, I think it’s best to create a detailed sketch to avoid mistakes while painting.
After all, you wouldn’t want to mess up painting Vincent Van Gogh’s favorite café!
Next, use just a tad bit of yellow mixed with a lot of water for the first layer. Remember to keep it very light and add more color gradually - not all at once.
I’ll use the same consistency for the second and third floors of the café. I recommend leaving out the windows and other details right now and focusing on the walls only.
Perhaps the most iconic part of Le Consulat is its canopy. The vibrant red and green combination makes the tiny café visible from miles away, allowing everyone to flock to its door every morning! I especially like how this bright canopy creates a striking contrast against the neutral color scheme of this house-turned-café.
Once the canopy is painted using vibrant shades of red and green, paint the first layer of the ground floor. Here, I’ll use brown, while keeping it as light as possible.
Once the first layer is dry, proceed to add some details, like windows, plants on the balcony, cracks on the walls, the name board, etc.
Note that I’m only painting according to my memory from the last time I visited Paris and the pictures I managed to click amidst the crowd. But if you’ve been lucky to drop by the café recently, feel free to add new details to the building.
After painting the windows and doors, you can add a second flush of color to the painting. I’ll start with the canopy, as that should be the focal point of the scene. Notice how I’m gradually adding a thicker consistency of paint on each part of the canopy. As I’m adding more reds and greens, the café is slowly coming to life - I can already sniff the freshly prepared crepes!
Let the painting dry completely before making any final touches.
Finally, I’ll add more details and sharpness to the artwork by painting the outlines of the door and windows. Use a small brush, just as I am, to make precise strokes. While I may not remember the intricacies of Parisian architecture very well, simply outlining basic structures can make a world of difference.
I’ll further paint the cute little chairs outside the café, which are usually occupied throughout the day. But that didn’t stop me from grabbing a treat whenever I craved something sweet!
And just like that, with a few more details, my rendition of the cozy café at the heart of Montmartre is ready. What do you think?
Besides painting on watercolor paper to be framed and propped up on your wall, I suggest turning it into a postcard and sending it to a friend. Or, you could make a birthday card with this warm and inviting painting of Le Consulat in the front and gift it to someone who loves Paris!
For a more personalized touch, consider writing a message explaining why you chose the painting or what it means to you. Regardless, I guarantee any art enthusiast or travel junkie will appreciate such a thoughtful gift.
Other than that, you can experiment with the composition - maybe paint the sky or add more trees surrounding the café. Your imagination is the limit!
So, take your time and experiment with different colors and techniques to create your unique masterpiece.
Watercolor is a unique medium that allows seamless blending for stunning effects on paper. And with an iconic subject like Le Consulat, you can express your creativity in capturing the beautiful heritage of Paris.
With this step-by-step guide, I’m sure you’ll be able to create a painting that showcases your artistic skills. And if you’re a beginner, I hope this article inspires you to try your hand at watercolor painting and explore your creative side.
Just remember to take your time and enjoy the relaxing and rewarding process, and if you enjoy this one do cast a glance over our next tutorials on How to Paint Berlin with Watercolor and How to Paint Trees with Watercolor, they're both beginner-friendly watercolor tutorials that you'll surely enjoy!
Happy painting!
Painting has been for a long time an incredible expression of the most inner feelings, a personalized display of the multiple ways we can perceive the world surrounding us through our eyes, with multiple deductible and traceable overall lines and topics present at the same time all over the world.
Techniques and basic materials have evolved over time, offering us endless possibilities to allow our creativity to run free and voice about our personalities and taste but the basic principles set by our ancestors from Greek and Roman times have remained as key rules in creating, transposing and elaborating a sketch or painting and we are talking here about perspective, human body proportions, depth, representation of the static and of movement and so on.
This unique set of rules is applicable indifferently of the basic material, no matter if we are talking aboutcanvas painting ideas or watercolor paintings on special types of paper and of the chosen technique-oil, acrylic, textile, watercolor or glass painting.
Today we are going to focus our attention to the first basic steps one must take in learning how to paint glass.
By Designer : Richard Morris Hunt (1827-1895)maker : Eugène Stanislas Oudinot (1827-1889) - Self-photographed / PierreSelim, CC0
"Colored glass has been produced since ancient times. Both the Egyptians and the Romans excelled at the manufacture of small colored glass objects. Phoenicia was important in glass manufacture with its chief centres Sidon, Tyre and Antioch. The British Museum holds two of the finest Roman pieces, the Lycurgus Cup, which is a murky mustard color but glows purple-red to transmitted light, and the Portland vase which is midnight blue, with a carved white overlay. In early Christian churches of the 4th and 5th centuries, there are many remaining windows which are filled with ornate patterns of thinly-sliced alabaster set into wooden frames, giving a stained-glass like effect.Evidence of stained glass windows in churches and monasteries in Britain can be found as early as the 7th century. The earliest known reference dates from 675 AD when Benedict Biscop imported workmen from France to glaze the windows of the monastery of St Peter which he was building at Monkwearmouth. Hundreds of pieces of colored glass and lead, dating back to the late 7th century, have been discovered here and at Jarrow." [Wikipedia]
The South Transept windows from Chartres Cathedral By Ludwig Schneider - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0
Even though this beautiful technique has had its significant origin in the stained glass of churches and monasteries, nowadays many contemporary artists dedicate their passion to expressing creativity on glass in impressive manners.But we know for a fact that you do not have to be a professional to learn some basic tricks and tips and start painting your own designs at home as a wonderful method of relaxing and exploiting one's latent creativity.You can apply a set of principles and steps to any chosen glass item you wish to transform and embellish. Learn how to paint wine glasses, how to paint glass bottles and how to use spray paint for efficient fast results.
Tips and tricks on how to paint glass
What type of paint should i choose?
This is the first question one should ask himself before starting a diy glass painting project, because the paint type will determine the possibilities you could have in designing an item and actually being able to achieve exactly what you were looking for without struggling too much. from what we have found, glass paints can be divided under 5 big categories based on their consistency, inner structure and finished appeal.
Acrylic enamel paint or enamel paint designed for glass and other shiny surfaces
Acrylic glass paints
Acrylic paints that require a medium added
Solvent based paints
Special markers
1. Acrylic Enamel Paint
Acrylic enamel paints fall under the "easy to use" category and do not require heat to set. Their composition is based on water which will help the paint to dry and harden rather quickly, offering a very glossy end result. They come in a variety of hues and some types an actually be use don ceramics too, being dishwasher safe after having cured.We recommend the Plaid Folk Art Enamel Beginner Set for the basic tones you will need in the beginning, as it is usable on ceramics, wood, Styrofoam, plaster, terra cotta and tin as well and provide easy cleanup with soap and water.
2. Acrylic Glass Paints
The acrylic glass paints contain a formula specially designed to adhere to plastic, glazed ceramics and glass, with a transparent hue that might come in handy in the case of stained glass projects. Depending on the manufacturer, this type of glass paint can be let to air dry or will require heat setting in the oven. For a professional looking aspect we recommend the Pebeo Vitrea 160 Glossy Glass Paint Set applicable on glass, crystal, porcelain, china, glazed earthenware, terracotta, metal, enameled sheet steel, and copper. This specific glass paint type needs to be set in the oven and according to the bottle instructions, the colors are permanent, microwave safe, UV resistant and have remarkable resistance to dish-washing and to normal detergent.
3. Acrylic Paints That Require a Medium Added
Folk Art 869 2-Ounce Glass and Tile Medium by Plaid Enterprises is a medium used to allow the paint to adhere to the glass surface. This particular product confers the glass a frosty, sandblasted appeal that will allow regular acrylic paints to adhere perfectly to the surface.
4. Solvent Based Paints
Pebeo Vitrail Stained Glass Effect Glass Paint is a solvent based paint that will not require heat to set and will air dry in about 8 hours.Its appeal is a transparent one, suitable for stained glass projects and applicable on glass, polyester, acetate, canvas and metal; we recommend using pebeo cobra deco or iris brushes.You can thin the paint by adding mineral spirit or white spirit. Unfortunately, you cannot use this type of paint on items you consider using everyday as the paint itself bears only a light wash without soaking.
5. Special Markers
There is a variety of glass painting markers available that can even guarantee dish-washing safe items. Markers are perfect for glass painting beginners as they are very easy to control. The downside is that a consistent flow is not always possible because you will have to pump the actual paint from time to time for it to reach the tip of the marker. The Pebeo Vitrea 160 Assorted Glossy Markers are applicable on glass, crystal, porcelain, china, glazed earthenware, terracotta, metal, enamelled sheet steel, and copper and will fully dry after a minimum of 24 hours. They require baking which will add incredible resistance to dish-washing and to normal detergents.
Should I Prepare the Glass Before Applying the Paint?
When we usually start a canvas painting project we prepare the canvas and apply a ground color as the prime background for the rest of our colorful layers. The same principle applies to glass too. You have to make sure the surface is perfectly clean and grease free in order to obtain a uniform stained glass appeal.
Start by washing it thoroughly sing warm water and soap. Another method involves using water and vinegar and a final wipe with an alcohol damped paper towel. Remember our hands have natural oils that can smudge the glass surface, so we recommend you to use latex or surgical gloves.
Let the glass air dry or use a clean porous paper cloth to remove water. If your project involves applying a basic uniform color to a wine bottle for example, keep in mind that the transparency of the glass will complicate the process of obtaining a good even coverage. Apply several coats for an opaque effect and let the paint layers set before applying another by respecting the paint manufacturer's instructions in the bottle.
What are the recommended brush types for glass painting?
There is no specific brush type required. Some manufacturers prefer and recommend their own brush that can come along with a specific paint, but both natural and synthetic brushes will work well. As for the size and shape of the actual brush, it all depends on the design you are trying to achieve. As a beginner, if you are looking for an intricate model, choose a rather small pointy paint brush that will allow you to be more precise and fallow your guidelines properly, as well as to distribute the glass paint evenly on the surface.The Martha Stewart Crafts Glass Brush Set contains 5 special angled brushes that will help you in painting wine bottles for example and are made from Nylon bristles, ideal for glass painting and fine detailing.
Another useful item that should have a place in your painter tool box is the Craft Martha Stewart Crafts Glass Scraper And Pick Setwhich will definitely come in handy in glass painting projects, allowing you to correct mistakes, clean the paint from your glass surface and remove bubbles from it as well.
How should I heat-set my glass painted item?
When it comes to paint types that require heat setting in the oven, the exact temperature required for the paint layer to dry perfectly is usually dictated by the paint's manufacturer so we highly encourage you to read them carefully before tying to heat dry your glass product.
Check your oven's temperature and never, ever insert the glass into a preheated oven. This will lead to the glass shattering under the huge temperature difference. Insert the glass into the oven, set the right temperature and timer, let it dry and allow the glass to cool to the room's temperature before taking it out of the oven.
We again advise you to fallow the instructions written on your paint product in order not to ruin your work of art at the very end. Just be patient and take it one step at a time.
Are glass paints safe to use on food or fluid containers?
Here again the concern issue depends on the paint's composition and chemical structure. Check and double check the instructions before applying glass paint on the interior side of your wine glasses. Non toxic is not the same thing as food safe so take precautions and do not paint the areas that can come in contact with food or liquids. From our knowledge such a product does not exist yet but if you know different we would very much like it if you could share it with us.
How to Paint Glass Step by Step
1. Set your basic materials within reach
When starting a painting project it always indicated to prepare in advance and set all your required materials within reach. Some types of paint can set very fast and won't allow you much flexibility so arrange all your utensils on the working table. For this particular project we have used an A4 sized glass piece, a set of Idea glass paints that will air dry in about 8 hours and an erasable black liner to set the basic design lines on the glass surface.
2. Prepare and clean the glass surface
As mentioned on the above tips and tricks, it is very important to clean and prepare the glass surface before starting applying layers of paint and unraveling the beuatiful design you have envisioned.We have used a glass cleaner product that contains alcohol and wiped the glass thoroughly. Afterwards we have let it air dry, naturally, to avoid unwanted marks that a cloth might have left. Remember to use gloves to prevent the natural oils of your skin from smudging the surface.
3. Sketch the basic design lines of your art work
For a simpler approach we have drawn our simple iris design on a piece of paper before starting the actual work on the glass piece. This might come in handy if you are not sure of the precise form of your future creation. Now you have the chance to think about the hues you will use and the positioning of the design on your glass canvas.
4. Reproduce the design on the glass surface
Place the piece of paper underneath the glass piece and start drawing by using a black liner. You can use a permanent marker if you have a steady hand. Otherwise, opt for a removable one and keep an alcohol damped cloth nearby to remove unwanted smudges that will definitely happen. Once the lines have been set you can start adding your hue layers.
5. Start applying the layers of glass paint
As a glass painter beginner it is not recommended to buy a variety of pain tones from the very start. Choose the basic primary colors and learn to mix and match them to obtain the right tones you desire for your creation. Do not forget about the pain thinner which will definitely ease the process. be careful though to not overuse it or you might end up with a dripping set of paints on your glass which will never set right.
6. Mix and match hues to obtain the right tones
Once the primary design is done you can focus on your background.For this basic simple design we have chosen a yellow and white combination color ground that could accentuate the iris flower. We have used a flat brush to apply in large strokes the paint layer and obtain a more artistic stroke.
7. Let the glass painting air dry or heat set it depending on the paint's specifications
The particular paint type we have used air dries in about 8 hours and does not require heat setting. Make sure to read the instructions and we highly advise you to respect them accordingly in order to really profit from your investment in glass painting materials.
How to Paint Glass Bottles Ideas
Single Snowflake on a Transparent Wine Bottle
A Mosaic of Colors
A Solid Tone Versus a Transparent Base
Paint a Colorful Dream-catcher
Wine Bottles Transformed Into Candle Holders
Limit Yourself to One Tone and Enhance the Bottle With String Lights
In the end imagination, creativity and dedication will define your work. Keep the basic rules in mind and simply have fun with any glass painting project. We would love to complete our collection with your own work so feel free to share your creations along with opinions and ideas in the comment section below.
Although aluminum looks sleek in its natural silvery form, people often want to paint aluminum surfaces to complement their home decor.
As such, all DIYers and painting enthusiasts should know how to paint this popular metal. However, if you don’t know how to go about it, there’s absolutely nothing to worry about as it’s hardly as tough as you think.
There are a ton of ways to paint aluminum surfaces that will allow you to achieve a fantastic paint job. In this informative guide, we will be learning all the nitty-gritty about painting aluminum so that you get the desired results each time.
Without any further delay, let’s get straight to the good stuff, shall we?
Things You Should Know About Painting Aluminum
For the best results, painting aluminum requires some extra steps in the preparation stages. For example, first, you will need to sand your aluminum surface to ensure that the paint adheres well to it. You can do this with medium-grit sandpaper that’ll help scrape the surface.
Then, you’ll have to apply an etch primer to provide a solid base coat, which will allow the paint to stick to the surface. In this way, you will be able to achieve a top-quality paint job that’ll truly stand the test of time.
That said, if you want to make it more durable, we suggest finishing it off with a topcoat or a sealer and letting it dry for 24 hours. Fortunately, all these supplies are easily obtainable at hardware stores, and they are reasonably easy to apply.
What You’ll Require To Paint Aluminum
Before starting, you will need a few supplies to deliver a top-quality finish. To begin with, you will require a respirator and gloves if you are using topcoats, self-etching primers, and spray paints. If you come in direct contact with these materials, they can prove to be harmful to your health.
So, you need to make sure that you take proper safety measures. Furthermore, we strongly advise against using these primers or spray paints indoors as they release harmful chemicals that can put you at risk of developing breathing issues.
Lastly, ensure that you have some of the basic items near you, such as an old piece of cloth and sandpaper, in order to prep the aluminum surfaces before painting.
How To Paint Aluminum
Follow these steps to successfully paint aluminum
Sand The Aluminum Surface
First, you need to sand the surface properly before getting started with the spray paint. This will ensure that the surface is sufficiently rough for the spray paint to adhere well to it. You need not put extra effort into this step; just add some texture to make the next steps easier.
Rub Off Excess Dirt And Dust Using A Cloth
Next, you’ll have to use an old rag or a cloth to get rid of all the dirt and dust created from sanding the aluminum surface. The idea is to get the surface free from all the debris to allow the scuffs to absorb the paint.
Apply Multiple Coats Of Self-Etching Primers
Now, you’ll have to apply the self-etching primer to create a durable surface for the spray paint. You will need to apply 3-4 coats for optimal results. On that note, make sure you do this outside or in a paint booth to prevent the paint from sticking onto other surfaces.
Apply Multiple Layers Of Spray Paint
This is the part where you apply spray paint. It doesn’t matter which brand you are using; just ensure that you have worn a respirator for protection. Ideally, you should apply 4-5 coats to deliver a top-notch finish and make the paint less susceptible to flaking due to wear and tear.
Let The Spray Paint Cure
Once done with spray paint, keep the object in a dry and safe place for a minimum of 24 hours. This will ensure that the paint gets sufficient time to adhere itself completely to the surface.
Apply A Few Layers Of Clear Coat
If you intend on using the painted object outdoors, we highly suggest applying a few layers of clear coat to properly seal in the paint. This will ensure that the color remains intact for a long time.
Top 3 Coatings For Aluminum Surfaces
If you are painting aluminum for the first time, you may not be aware of the top aluminum primers and paints. For this reason, we have listed 3 products that we consider to be the best in their respective departments, and that may help you achieve the desired results.
This product from Rust-Oleum is both a paint and a primer. Made using an oil-based formula, it ensures long-lasting protection for your aluminum surface. Let’s move on to the next section to know more about this product in detail.
Why Did We Like It?
Honestly, we were quite impressed with what this product has to bring to the table. It has a drying time of just 20 minutes, which is relatively lower than most options you’ll find on the market. Plus, a can of this product can cover up to 12 square feet, which is pretty decent, given the size of the container.
The main issue with aluminum paint and primers is that they have an offensive odor that makes them very difficult to apply. But you don’t have to worry about that while using this, as it's an oil-based formula, having exceptionally low odor.
On top of that, it is available in a wide variety of color options, enabling users to choose a color that would suit their requirements. Apart from aluminum, this item can be used on various other surfaces, including plaster, plastic, ceramic, and a lot more.
Overall, it is one of the top-rated paint cum primers available on the market.
What Could’ve Been Better?
Without a doubt, it is an exceptional paint cum primer, especially given its low drying time and various color options. But, unfortunately, that same cannot be said about the can that it comes in. We noticed that its lid is rather hard to pull, which might be an issue for many users. Other than this minor inconvenience, the product works perfectly fine.
Pros
Low odor
Available in various color options
Decent coverage
Apart from aluminum, it can be applied on a range of other surfaces
Our next pick is a paint from Rust-Oleum that works out amazingly well on aluminum surfaces. It is popular among DIYers and professionals for providing a hoard of benefits. So, let’s dig a little deeper.
Why Did We Like It?
If you are looking to protect aluminum objects from corrosion, besides providing an eye-catching finish, then this product could be your best bet. The paint’s oil-based formula helps you deliver a durable protective coating that offers top-notch rust prevention.
Furthermore, it is resistant to chipping, fading and abrasion, and UV rays, which means once you spray it, you can expect this paint to stay unflawed for a long time. Not to mention, it provides a glossy finish, making your aluminum surfaces look fresh and brand new.
Plus, you would be pleased to know that it dries in just 4 hours, unlike most paints that take an entire day. Beyond that, it features an economical price tag, making the product ideal for DIYers and people who have recently gotten into painting. Lastly, a quart of it can provide a coverage of up to 90 square feet.
What Could’ve Been Better?
We didn’t come across any considerable downsides to this aluminum paint from Rust-Oleum. However, if we had to nit-pick, we would say that it has a strong odor. But that said, you can easily tackle it by wearing a respirator.
Next, let us introduce you to a latex aluminum primer that’ll work to protect your aluminum surface from various harsh weather elements. Keep reading to know more.
Why Did We Like It?
Perhaps, the most advantageous feature of this primer is its excellent adhesion, which helps the product to bond tightly on a range of interior and exterior aluminum surfaces with ease. Plus, its oil-based acrylic formula ensures a durable protective coating that makes the surfaces less susceptible to rusting.
Beyond that, it dries within 2 hours, which is a bonus, if you ask us. And not only that, a pack of 17 fluid ounces of this item can cover surfaces of up to 90 square feet, which is great.
Once applied, it creates a flat aluminum finish that can be easily covered with a range of topcoats. Overall, it is one of the best primers for aluminum surfaces that any DIYer can hope to get their hands on.
What Could’ve Been Better?
The only gripe we have against this primer is that the packaging material used is not durable enough. When it came to us, the can was dented, which was a bit disappointing
Pros
Offers a durable coating
Has a low drying time
Bonds tightly
Provides a decent coverage
Cons
Packaging material used is not good
Aluminum Surface Paint Buyer's Guide
Here are a few factors that you must consider when buying aluminum paint to ensure optimal results.
Consistency
Consistency is one of the most important factors you should consider when buying paint, specifically designed for aluminum surfaces. On that note, always go with a paint that has a thicker consistency as they are known to work better on metal surfaces, especially aluminum.
Easy Application
You should always go with a paint that allows you to paint surfaces without breaking a sweat. When it comes to painting aluminum, spray paints are considered to be a popular choice. This is because they are pretty quick and easy to apply.
Water And Weather-Resistance
Last but not least, you will want to ensure that your paint provides a durable and long-lasting coating that can withstand weather elements. So, when buying paint, check if it is resistant to water, UV rays, etc. This factor is especially crucial if you will be painting things that will be outside all year.
How To Paint Aluminum Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Here are some of the most frequently asked questions that we have tried answering to the best of our ability. We are confident that after reading this part, all your doubts regarding painting aluminum will be cleared.
1. What type of paint sticks best to aluminum surfaces?
Oil-based paints work the best on aluminum surfaces simply because they offer more durability and stronger adhesion than water-based paints.
2. Do aluminum surfaces require a special kind of paint?
Yes, there are special paints that are specifically designed to be used on aluminum surfaces. So, make sure that you check the packaging before buying as it will have the materials appropriate for use labeled on it.
3. What are some of the top brands of aluminum paints?
Some of the top-brands of aluminum paints are:
Krylon
Rust-Oleum
Seymour Of Sycamore
4. What are the other ways of protecting aluminum objects?
Apart from applying a coat of paint, you can protect your aluminum objects by anodizing them or by simply applying a coat of primer. It mostly depends on the intended use of the object.
Final Thoughts
Not only does painting aluminum objects protect them from rust and various weather elements, but it also makes them visually appealing.
With that, we have come to the end of our informative guide; hopefully, it has helped you gain extensive knowledge on painting aluminum. Just make sure that you prep the surface well before painting, as it’ll help the paint adhere properly to the surface.
Also, keep in mind that oil-based paints work best for painting aluminum surfaces, so make sure you choose the same.
On that note, it’s a wrap for today. Hope to see you soon!
Epoxy resin floors have been in buzz lately. But the material isn’t just limited to this; you can do several other projects using it.
If you’ve taken up the mighty task of doing a DIY epoxy resin project, it’s only natural to feel stuck at certain points. One such point is the measuring and mixing of resin and hardeners. Getting that ratio right can indeed be a challenging task, even for experienced builders.
That’s why we’ve put together an elaborate step-by-step guide to assist you with the mixing process. We’ll also give you details about the preparation and application part so you can go ahead and ace that epoxy project.
Let’s get started right away!
Guide To Mixing Epoxy Resin
A. Prepping up
Before getting to the mixing and measuring of epoxy resin, a little prepping up is needed. We’ll cover that bit in this section.
Choose A High-Quality Epoxy Product
Choosing a good resin product that suits all your needs is the first step in the right direction, and you need to do your homework while choosing. Know what you’re going to do with the epoxy, read up articles, and research which one will suit your purpose the best.
Are you going to use it for coating a surface, or do you just need to fill up some holes in an old wooden piece? There are different epoxies for different purposes, and we suggest getting a specialized one instead of their all-purpose counterparts.
Check the product description carefully and go for top-quality and reliable brands only. An epoxy resin is something you cannot take many risks with, as there are many products on the market that are just a waste of money. Some do not harden at all, while others are already yellow, even before application.
Gather The Equipment
The next step is to get all your supplies and gear in place. Here’s a list of equipment you’ll need:
Mixing cups (avoid containers that contain oils or fats if you’re using recycled cups)
Mixing sticks
Eye protection
Latex or rubber gloves (reusable or disposable)
Mini digital scale or measuring cylinders
B. Mixing
Once you’re ready with all the products and equipment, you can move on to the next part, measuring the epoxy resin and mixing it in correct proportions. We advise covering the spot where you’ll be working with newspapers or rags, so you don’t spoil your floor while working.
Get The Ratio Right
Each product has a different resin to hardener mixing ratio, which majorly determines its effectiveness and utility. The easiest and the most basic ones are mixed in a 1:1 ratio, which is a no-brainer, and if you’ve managed to pick one that follows this scheme, count yourself lucky.
There are others that require two parts or three parts of resin for each part of the hardener, and they are attainable as well. But problems arise with the complicated ones that demand a proportion of 100:45 or 100:47, so you might need a little extra assistance in such cases.
You can usually find the fractional details on the package, but in case this information is discrete, you can refer to an online epoxy resin calculator. The mixing ratio has to be precise to the point, else it won’t harden properly, and all your hard work will go down the drain.
The calculator will ask you to feed various dimensions like length, width, and thickness of the project, the volume of epoxy, and other details. Fill in all this data carefully, and you’ll find out the accurate mixing ratio.
Measuring By Volume Vs. Measuring By Weight
Some people suggest, like all other products, resin and hardeners should be measured in terms of weight too. But the fact that the density of both of these solutions differs must not be overlooked.
Therefore, it is better to measure the products in terms of volume instead of weight. But we’ll leave the choice to you and explain both methods one by one.
A. By Weight
First and foremost, power on your digital weighing scale and choose the desired units. Scales mostly measure in ounces or grams, so pick a unit that gives you the freedom to determine 0.1 gram or ounce.
Once you get the units straight, place the mixing cup on the scale and set it as the zero balance by pressing the zero selection or “tare” button. Now pour the resin and note the amount, let’s say ten ounces, for instance.
Next, measure the amount of hardener required as per the instructed proportions. If your product says 2:1, then your hardener should be five ounces. Pour the hardener from the container directly into the mixing cup, and if by chance the weighing machine resets because of inactivity, you’ll need to weigh only the hardener.
However, we don’t recommend following this method as you’ll have to keep a note of the differences in the weight of epoxy and hardener. You can use measuring charts for quick reference, but that is too much hassle.
B. By Volume
Assess the amount of material needed for the application as closely as possible, and if you don’t get enough on the first go, you can always mix up another batch. Since epoxy resin is an expensive commodity, try and minimize the wastage as much as you can.
Start off by pouring the resin into the measuring cylinder or graduated cup and ensure that the lower meniscus meets the quantitative mark you are aiming for. Fun fact: while measuring solutions, mostly those that are colorless are measured by looking at the lower meniscus, while colored ones are assessed using the upper meniscus or the flat surface.
However, the warm resin lays flat, so you should give it enough time to settle down. When you’re done with the epoxy, you can proceed by pouring the hardener as per the ratio. Fortunately, the volume doesn’t take the density differences into account, and that makes the whole process significantly convenient.
Mix The Epoxy Resin
Mix both the solutions thoroughly for three to four minutes using a mixing stick, and you can continue whisking for even longer if the quantities are large. Scrape off the bottom and the sides of your mixing cup while doing this, so there aren’t any lumps.
Don’t stop until you’re absolutely sure that both the solutions are completely mixed and have the desired consistency. One sure sign of attaining success is that your formula will be uniform and stop streaking.
Dispense The Epoxy Resin
Moving on, we have a few tips for dispensing the mixed epoxy:
Most importantly, epoxy resins are very sensitive to temperature, and humidity changes; that’s why you shouldn’t use them outside when it’s freezing or moist and chances of condensation are extremely high.
Next, don’t let the mixture sit in the pot for too long and start working as soon as you can, and that is directly proportional to its quantity. Meaning, the more is the quantity, the faster you should apply it because the consistency gets affected if you leave it unattended.
Start the application process by evenly spreading a thin layer of the resin using a squeegee and smoothing it out with a brush instead of pouring a thick layer directly from the container. Wait for the resin to tack and then proceed to apply a second layer or fill in the left-out spots.
Furthermore, pump two strokes of epoxy for each stroke of the hardener by pressing the head entirely and allowing it to retract fully. Partial strokes will mess up your ratio, and you wouldn’t want that. Lastly, we advise you to calibrate your dispenser carefully for accurate proportions before you begin pumping.
C. Aftermath
Get The Surface Ready
Preparing your surface for adhesion is important before you start applying the epoxy resin. For effective mechanical adherence, the surface should ideally be clean, moisture-free, and properly sanded.
A. Chemical Bonds
These bonds, also known as primary bonds, are formed when partially cured epoxy is covered with a fresh coat of epoxy. Primary bonding depends on the molecules of the previous layer for chemical reactions.
B. Mechanical Bonds
Mechanical bonds are secondary bonds that resemble the previous category, except they are applied on a fully cured layer. When the first layer is completely dried out, the window for chemical reactions closes. Hence mechanical bonds are formed when the molecules of the second layer key into the pores of the previous one.
Curing And Cleaning Epoxy Resin
The time taken by the epoxy resin liquid mixture to solidify is known as the curing period. The formula first transforms into a gel and then finally into solid to give the final finish.
Always try to stay near your project or keep checking up on it frequently during the curing period. Curing occurs best at room temperature, so you won’t need any external agents to alter the temperature (like oven or blow dryer).
Furthermore, if you feel the need for trimming, try to pull out the tape an hour or two after the resin has started setting. It is easier to do when the epoxy is three-fourths cured as opposed to completely cured.
Top Coats And Finishing
The final and most important step in the process is applying a top coat on your brand new epoxy resin surface and making it durable against moisture and sunlight.
The glossy white coatings last the longest on epoxy as they reflect most of the light hitting its surface. Dull surfaces aren’t capable of doing that and absorb the light, weakening and turning the epoxy yellow as a result.
Since completely cured epoxy resin is an inert and tough plastic, it doesn’t react and is compatible with most coatings. It also doesn’t swell or soften in contact with paint solvents. Elevate the temperature once your epoxy sets, allowing it to cure thoroughly.
Here are a few types of finish coatings that work best on epoxy resin:
A. Epoxy Paints
Available in one-part and two-part versions, these paints are chemical resistant and durable. However, they aren’t the best when it comes to UV protection.
B. Alkyd Finishes
These finishes are low-cost, easily available, easy to apply, and low in toxicity. But, just like epoxy paints, alkyd finishes also have low abrasion and UV resistance.
C. One-Part Polyurethanes
One-Part Polyurethanes offer much UV protection than the previous two options and are easy to apply and clean.
D. Two-Part Linear Polyurethane Paints
These paints are the most durable and offer top-quality protection to the epoxy. They are available in clear or pigmented options with abrasion and gloss retention. But they are comparatively expensive than the others and are a little difficult to apply.
Things To Consider While Mixing
The Effect Of Ambient Temperature
As we’ve already told you, temperature has a huge impact on epoxy surfaces, so you need to consider the weather while applying the resin.
A. Temperature below 68 degrees Fahrenheit:
Resin curing slows down significantly in this range. More amine reddening is also probable in such conditions, which takes quite a bit of effort for removal. Epoxy resin can also crystallize if the temperature drops lower than this.
B. Temperature higher than 68 degrees Fahrenheit:
The mixture of hardener and resin reacts faster in this range. It also shortens the pot life as well as the curing period. Therefore, if you live in hot conditions, you should opt for epoxies with longer working periods.
Humidity During The Processing
Hardeners are sensitive to humid air, and hence, you must avoid opening the can if atmospheric moisture exceeds 65%. They will surely suffer qualitative damage if they aren’t used up immediately because more and more oxygen enters the container on frequent opening and closing.
Temperature Of The Epoxy Resin
Using cold epoxy can lead to bubbles or milky streaks in your final mixture, making your formula inconsistent. You won’t get your desired finish on the project if you use an inconsistent solution.
For dealing with this situation, make sure that you store your resin at room temperature for at least twenty-four hours before use. If you’re in a hurry, then you can place it in a warm water bath too to bring the temperature up.
Heating makes the resin flow easy but reduces the open time, and you’ll have to work quickly. A significant rise can even half the curing time and pot life of your mixture, so be careful about that.
Using Colors
Only a select few colors are compatible with epoxy resins, and you should not use any pigment that you find in your mix. Look for mica pigments, coloring dye, and concentrated formulas that are compatible with your resin, and introduce it only when you’re sure about it.
Tool For Mixing Epoxy Resin
Correct tools can make the whole mixing process easy and quick without having to strain your hands in the whisking. A flat spatula, similar to a paint stirrer, is the most effective tool for this purpose.
A wooden spatula is a cheaper variant, but it is available only for smaller quantities, so mixing sticks is the best alternative for medium quantities. It doesn’t allow the air bubbles to enter and can be used multiple times. Another thing worth noting is that the mixing tool should be straight to scrape off material from the sides of the container thoroughly.
Mixing DIfferent Epoxy Products
Resins and hardeners are specially formulated to adjust with each other and make a final epoxy resin of uniform consistency. Hence, different solutions, no matter if they are from the same brand or manufacturers, should not be mixed.
Duly follow the mixing instructions and ratio while making the resin solution using the right tools for best results.
Heat Generation
Blending epoxy resin and hardener is an exothermic reaction, and the process produces a lot of heat. To avoid any accidents, you must take the following precautions:
Do not exceed the upper limit of the maximum mixing amount
Mix the components in large containers rather than higher ones to reduce heat build-up
Use less reactive epoxy resins
Final Words
Mixing epoxy resin sounds so easy, right? But it isn’t that easy when you bring in all the details.
After covering all the nuances and implications of the process, we’ve now reached the end of our guide on mixing epoxy resin. Did you find it helpful? We hope that you did! Creating a resin mixture can be a daunting task, but with our tips and tricks, you’ll get the hang of it.
That’s it for this guide, guys. We’ll see you next time! Take care.
Epoxy is a versatile substance that can be molded into various forms. You can create unique pieces to wear, thanks to this.
Besides decorative pieces, DIY enthusiasts and local designers create pendants, bracelets, earrings, cufflinks, finger rings, tie pins, brooches, and key rings.
You can get beautiful crystal-like surfaces, but the best part is that you can also add color. Add a dose of your favorite shade and create fake crystals, which can then be used with a chain. Many also work with wood and create beautiful additions to it with the help of epoxy resin.
Now, we know that the entire process can be a little confusing. To prevent any dilemma, we have curated this informative guide about how to make resin jewelry. You will get all the information needed, including information about the different types available in our market and every other step involved.
So, dive in!
How to Make Resin Jewelry?
You must have seen a lot of solid and transparent resin craft being available in both local and jewelry stores. Many make crystals and gems with this, and they look absolutely similar to real gemstones and crystals.
If you are wondering what resin really is, let us tell you about it. It is an artificial blend made of very viscous plastic or polymer. The blend is first available in liquid form, which, when mixed with a hardener, turns into a solid layer.
It can take around 24 hours to a few days for the curing process, and once the layer has solidified, it does not crack or break easily. This will look like clear glass but will not break on dropping.
Plus, the resin is pretty easy to work with once you get the hang of it. You will need the right mold and a few other items, which we have mentioned below. Once they are all in place, you can easily begin the process.
Moving on, before you begin with the jewelry making process, we will tell you a little about the preparations. If you are a novice and this is your first time working with this option, it is best to get acquainted with the process before working on the final pieces. Follow the steps mentioned below and only then move on to the actual process.
Understanding Resin
We will recommend that you first learn to measure and mix the resin. You can combine and make small objects with it just to get the hang of it. That said, it probably would be best to start with epoxy as it is the easiest to work with. It takes a little while to dry, and you can mix and cast it before that easily.
The process of mixing is extremely important, and you should have the essentials before beginning. A measuring cup along with syringes and medicine cups will help you get the right amount. Also, ensure that you have a hardener along with the fluid. Only UV resin does not need an additional hardener as it is already mixed.
Next, you will have to learn about the specifics that involve the mixing ratio, time taken to pot and cure, and every safety measure that needs to be taken. The resin has to be measured in cups, and the pack will tell you how much of it needs to be mixed with a hardener.
Generally, the common rule to follow is the 1:1 ratio. That means equal quantities of the liquid and hardener has to be mixed.
However, we will advise you to read the back of the pack carefully before proceeding.
Picking An Area
Another important factor is the place where you will be working. Always be prepared for the mess that might occur during the process, and remember that resin is very difficult to remove. It can scar surfaces permanently; something you wouldn't want.
So, use enough wax paper while working and keep the surrounding areas covered. Also, keep tissues handy during the process. If any of the material gets in your hand, then rub it off immediately.
Moving on, we will recommend using it as the only variable, especially if you are working with it for the first time. Use jewelry bezels where you do not need to remove the mold after the drying process. This way, if anything goes wrong, you can immediately understand the reason. Once you have mastered the use of this fluid, then move on to adding items to it.
Adding Objects To Resin
Adding items to resin look beautiful and will help you create various unique pieces of jewelry. However, if you put anything porous in the mix, then it might not look good. In this case, you will have to first seal the porous object and then only move on to adding it.
The next question to ask yourself is if you are confident about sealing porous objects. If you are not, first imagine how it would look like if water was added to it.
Now, if you can predict a change in the appearance, then it has to be sealed. Once you have sealed it, it can be added to the middle of your resin mold over a layer of hardened liquid.
Further, begin with easy items like metal or glitter beads and shells. These do not have to be sealed but they look beautiful inside jewelry. When you place them in the mold, position them well, and you can add a little amount of resin to fix their position.
This will also teach you about trapping bubbles and how to remove them. Furthermore, keep a dryer handy to remove bubbles when needed.
Next comes colors, and you can try adding them with the resin. It generally does not work well with moisture, and you will need more time for mixing. This might take a while to get used to, but you will get the hang of it in some time.
Creating A Dome
So, resins can create that perfect dome, but you will need some practice for it. The amount of fluid should be just right so that it does not fall off the edges. This is generally a little tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it, the process will be super easy. Practice and patience are key and will help you go a long way in this case.
Once you have mastered this, you are prepared to make resin jewelry from scratch. You will now understand the texture and curing method better, and that makes you prepared for the next step. Get surfing on the internet and curate a collection of pictures that you plan to use for inspiration.
Working On Different Surfaces
There are a number of surfaces that you can work on. You might want to add to wood to create beautiful wooden jewelry. On the other hand, you can also use it to coat tables and furniture and prevent them from discoloration over time.
Materials Required
So, now you already know how to work with resin, and it's time to take you through the items needed before beginning the final process of making jewelry. We have listed the important materials needed for the process. They are:
Crafting Epoxy
Jewelry molds of your choice
Latex gloves
Blow dryer
Wax paper
Fine-grained sandpaper
Polishing paste
Gloss varnish
Measurement Cups
Squeeze bottle
Popsicle sticks
Resin Fillers including jewelry, dried flowers, glitter, studs, and feathers
Tissues
Selecting The Right Mold
There are different kinds of molds available, and you can get one according to your needs. You will find perfect pieces for creating brooches, pendants, earrings, key rings, and finger rings. Browse through all the options and pick one that fits the best.
Remember that if the mold is ill-fitting, then you will have to spend more time in the sanding process to get your desired shape.
Process Of Making Resin Jewelry
Now that you know about the different materials that are needed let us begin with the steps. Follow them carefully for a flawless experience. Also, remember to place the hardener and resin fluid bottles in hot water before the process.
It will help you get them ready and will prevent air bubbles from forming. This is specially important if the surrounding temperature is very low.
Step 1| Preparation
At first, you will have to decide the jewelry that needs to be cast or the kind of jewelry that you want to make. It is best to have a reference image in case you are making it from scratch.
Once you have decided, bring all the materials to one place and lay them out. This includes the colors and silicon molds too. We will advise keeping fine-grained sandpaper near along with gloss varnish and the polishing paste. Fill a glass with water and keep it along with absorbent tissues and a sanding block. These are not extremely important but will make the process less messy.
Moving on, if you plan to use UV resin, then you will need a UV lamp for the curing process. Keep it ready beforehand so as to save time.
Remember, while some people do not take adequate protection, we will always recommend being cautious. Wear gloves, safety glasses, and a mask to prevent the chemicals from going into your system.
Place plastic sheets around if you are working in your bedroom to prevent the chemicals from spreading around. You can also use wax papers for this step as it is easier to remove hardened resin from wax paper. .
Step 2| Mixing
Next, you will need your measuring cups for this part of the process. Ensure that there are millimeter markings on the cup and, if possible, keep a kitchen scale handy. Pour the epoxy and polyester resin along with the hardener in an equal ratio. This is extremely crucial, and you have to get a 1:1 ratio exactly.
If you are planning to add colors or glitters to products, then you have to mix them with resin. Pour a small amount and see the change in color. This generally depends on the preference of people.
On the other side, if you are using UV resin, then you will not need a hardener. This usually comes mixed with a hardener, and you can use it straight out of the pack. The only condition is that UV light will be needed for the process.
Step 3| Pouring
Once you have the mix ready, pour it into the mold and cover half of it. Now you will want to put in any light materials that would go well. You can choose among feathers, leaves, glitter, or any other substance that you think fits well. This should be positioned well in the liquid and then left to settle.
You will have to leave it for up to 24 hours and watch the first layer harden. Once it happens, put in any of the heavier objects like pearls, stones, or shells that you want to add to the jewelry. To help in positioning them properly, pour a little amount of resin along with it.
After this has hardened, you can now pour the remaining amount of resin and fill the mold completely. A very important tip here is to check for air bubbles immediately after pouring. If air bubbles have formed, use a hot air dryer or a Bunsen burner to remove them.
Then let it harden completely, and we will recommend leaving it for another day and then checking again.
Step 4| Removing the Mold
The time taken to dry varies with different substances and thicknesses. While UV resin dries the fastest and will only take a few minutes under UV light, the classic version can take up to 48 hours or a few days to do it.
This also depends on the type of weather and the brand. Read the back of the pack that you buy to ensure that you provide enough time to dry.
Once it has dried completely, take it out of the mold. Now you might see sharp corners, or it might be a little dull. But do not worry, as this is pretty common. It will be taken care of in the next step.
Step 5| Polishing And Sanding
Once you have taken it out of the mold, it is best to begin with the sanding process. Use your fine-grained sandpaper for this job and remove all sharp edges from the sides. Once you have done so and there are no visible protrusions, move on to the polishing stage.
Here, if you have used a polished mold, the product should already have a shine to it. These are better options as these will save you from having to polish the jewelry again.
If the mold was not polished, then you can either apply the polishing paste, or you can use a varnish to make it glossy. If you plan to use epoxy resin for this step, then you will have to ensure that the surface is absolutely smooth.
Otherwise, you might see unattractive marks inside the jewelry. Once you have used sandpaper, water, and a cloth to clean it, cover it with a layer of resin. This should be very thin, and you can use a brush to spread it. After it has a smooth thin layer surrounding it, let it harden.
Step 6| Drilling
The last step involves drilling a hole into your jewelry. Once you have made the pendant or keyring, you will need a hole to put the chain in. This has to be tiny, and we will recommend using a twist drill. This will enable you to drill a small hole with precision.
Remember that it is best to try on a sample item before using it on the jewelry. This will give you a feel of the material and speed, and you can work with precision on the actual piece.
Also, remember that the hole to be made will be dull, and you can use a tiny amount of epoxy resin and apply it there with a toothpick.
Further, when you are working with a drill, keep it at the lowest speed so that you can control the amount of heat. Too much heat can melt the entire jewelry and spoil it. Also, keep a thick board underneath the product so that the heat or your drill does not lead to scratches on any surface in your house.
Moreover, for bracelets and necklaces, you will need to attach a metal loop. This involves a thin piece of a pin that has to be heated and twisted into a loop. You can simply hold it with the help of pliers over a gas stove for a few seconds. Then poke it directly into the resin. Since it will be very hot, it will melt the layers and go inside easily.
Helpful Tips
If you are planning to make rings or pins, you can simply paste the resin jewelry onto a metal pin or a ring. There is no need to drill or make a hole, and this makes it less time consuming. Also, it is safer and will not destroy jewelry in any way.
Moreover, if you want to quicken up the drying process, you can place it in the freezer for 10 minutes or so. Then the process of taking it out of the mold will be very easy as it pops right out like ice pieces.
Working With Wooden Jewelry
When you are working with wood, the process is slightly different. But wood in combination with epoxy resin really stands out and looks beautiful. You can even use colored resin to make it more attractive.
To begin with, get a rectangular mold and then keep the wooden piece inside. Fill it up completely with epoxy resin and allow it to dry. Check after a day and begin working on it only after it has dried completely.
Once it has dried up, take it out of the mold and then begin shaping and polishing it. The sides need to be sanded and polished with gloss varnish or a layer of resin to ensure perfection.
Types Of Jewelry Resin
Now we will tell you about the different types of resin available in the market. If you are a DIY enthusiast looking to make jewelry, you should know about the 4 common types. These can be bought from a hardware store or a craft shop.
The major difference among the resin types is with their composition. When the composition is different, the drying and curing time will also vary. So, it is essential that you know about the types and then choose one according to your convenience.
Countertop Resin
This is a very popular type that is used by a number of artists to preserve their work. Known as laminating resin, it can also be used for resin art and small-format castings. It is very viscous and hence provides a thin layer.
Now since it dries quickly during the curing process, you will have to ensure that the layer on top is not thick. Thick layers can often become foggy and will not work well if you are using in on jewelry. If you want a thick coating, then go for multiple thin layers. This will prevent fogginess and will promote clear vision.
We will recommend using this with flowers or glitters as it does not let objects sink easily. You can make flower jewelry with this, which will look different and refreshing.
Casting Resin
This is the most common type of resin that is used to make jewelry but is also more expensive than the other options. However, you can rest assured that you will be getting a 100% non-toxic layer once it has dried up well.
But remember that it does take some time to dry up, and you might have to leave it for a few days. The formula is odorless and will provide a crystal clear layer on your jewelry.
Further, it is a low-viscosity liquid and hence takes more time in curing. You will be getting a thin layer that makes it perfect for small jewelry. In case you want a thicker one, create multiple layers with it. Other than jewelry, this is largely used for making epoxy tables and other furniture.
UV Resin
UV resin is a great replacement for the classic epoxy option. This takes just a few minutes to cure, and you will need UV light for it. It will offer you a crystal clear layer with no odor at all.
Moving on, the only downside to this is that it can form thin layers of a maximum of 4 mm. Now this will not be a problem when it comes to small jewelry, as you will be looking to create thin layers. But if you want to make a thick surface, create a number of thin layers, and that should work well. They will dry very fast, and you can finish the work in half an hour.
Polyester Resin
This is the cheapest type of resin which is known to harden quickly and will form a very tough layer. However, it has a strong smell and will form a clouded surface.
You can use it for jewelry to a limited extent. This is because you will not be getting a crystal clear surface which casting resin will offer.
Advantages Of Using Resin
While there are different materials that DIY enthusiasts might use to make jewelry, many are choosing resin over everything else. This is because it helps in creating unique pieces, which have a sense of authenticity. We have listed down some of the benefits of using this particular substance.
Difficult To Break
Resin jewelry is generally difficult to break, and you will have to apply intentional force to do so. If you keep twisting it till it snaps, it will break for sure. But that would mean you wanted to destroy it.
Otherwise, this is highly resistant to external force and will not get damaged in case it falls on the ground. You do not have to worry about dropping and breaking them, which is the case with clay pieces. Although they are strong, they can break if you drop them.
Non-porous And Water-resistant
Are you planning to use resin to make some parts of your costume for a theatre or a play? You can easily do so if you have the right mold. The substance will easily harden in place and will create a water-resistant layer.
You can then wear it in the rain or take part in a scene with water involved in case you are into theatrical acting.
Moreover, it is non-porous, so you need not worry about it melting in the rain. You can also wear it in broad sunlight, and the heat will not affect it. Overall, this is very resistant to nature and its forces.
No Maintenance Needed
Resin jewelry needs no maintenance whatsoever; you will just need the right mold and have to give it enough time to dry. Once it has dried and you have polished it, the job ends. You can then flaunt your new pieces wherever you go, and they can be kept anywhere too. You don't have to worry about rust, scratches, or breakage.
Also, these craft pieces can be modified whenever you need to, but they do not have to be cleaned at all. The surface will remain shiny, and you would not need to recolor. This is because the color is already added to the resin and is present inside it, so it cannot fade over time.
Final Words
We have finally reached the end of this guide, and we will give you a moment to take it all in. Once you are well-versed with the process, you can easily begin making resin jewelry professionally and create a business out of it.
This type of jewelry is in trend, and if you have great ideas, you can bring them to reality. Having said that, remember to pay attention to the minute details.
Since this is a very versatile transparent liquid, it will highlight any object that is placed inside. Remember this while you are creating the piece. You can use colors of different shades and create gradients that will make the pieces look beautiful.
No matter what design you have in your mind, anything can be made with the right kind of mold. Just be patient and enjoy the process.
With this, we will take your leave. Let us know about your experience in the comment section below. Until next time!
Did you just bring out your favorite board game, only to find the dice missing from the box?
We know how annoying that can be, given that several tabletop role-playing games like “13th Age” need quite a few dice to be played correctly. But there’s a way you can end this inconvenience once and for all. And that’s by making your own dice with patterns and designs of your choice.
Plus, playing the game with your own DIY dice will definitely make it more exciting and cherishable for you.
Speaking of the procedures involved, there are quite a few factors you need to be aware of and several techniques that you need to understand. That’s why we’ve compiled all the essential information for you in a way that will be most easy for you to understand.
So, without further ado, let’s start this exciting ride!
How To Make Resin Dice 101
To understand the art of making resin dice, you first need to be acquainted with several vital aspects of these colorful, intriguing objects. And that’s what we’ll discuss in the beginning before delving into the details of the procedure.
The Different Types Of Dice
You can obtain many different dice using dice-casting procedures, with each of these being suitable for playing a specific game. Note here that dice can differ in the number of sides, colors, and the images or inscriptions used for decorating each side. Here are the different types of dice you can create:
Colorful dice which have a different hue on each face
Dice with both negative and positive numbers on each face
Standard dice, which have a particular number of dots or digit on each face
Dice with different pictures on each face
Poker dice, which carry pictures of car characters on the faces
The Types Of Resin Dice Molds
There can be at most seven variations in the molds for casting standard dice made of resin. You can use these molds to make polyhedral dice, implying that the shape will have several straight edges, sharp corners, and flat faces.
The seven kinds of dice together constitute a set and are generally used for the popular role-playing game “Dungeons and Dragons.” While the dice types from D4 to D12 must be used for measuring weapon damage, spell, healing values, and attack, the D20 type is for checking whether your action has been successful.
So, let’s take a look at each of these molds briefly.
D8 Or Octahedron Dice
Coming with eight sides, this dice mold has a triangular shape and looks like two pyramids attached to one another at their bases. Every face of the dice is numbered from 1 to 8, with each pair of opposite sides adding to nine. During the Dungeons and Dragons game, such dice can be used to find out the damage caused due to large weapons.
D6 Or Cube Dice
Having six sides, this dice is the most familiar type and the type used in the majority of board games. It is shaped in the form of a cube, and each face is assigned one number from 1 to 6. Note that the numbers on each pair of opposite sides add up to seven in this case. Lastly, the dice are useful for assigning character attributes in “Dungeons and Dragons.”
D4 Or Tetrahedron Dice
This pyramid-shaped dice has four sides, with numbers 1 to 4 displayed on its faces. Each face has three of these numbers arranged on each vertex, and the number on a particular point is the same for all the faces.
While you roll this die, the number which stays upright on all the faces or the number on the top-most corner is the result that you will have to use. Indeed, this isn’t the easiest die to roll and is rather tossed into the air.
D00 Or Percentile Dice
Among all the types of dice, two that are always used together during a game are the percentile die, and the pentagonal trapezohedron die. Now, the former is named so, since the result you obtain by rolling it is always a percentage of 100.
Notably, the dice consists of 10 sides, with each face having a value between 00 to 90 in tens. You’ll have no problems differentiating between this one and the second die with ten sides as they have different colors. And remember that the resultant value after rolling both the dice together is obtained by adding their values. But if the number comes to two zeros, the resultant value will be 100.
Pentagonal Trapezohedron Dice Or D10
Rolled together with percentile dice, this type also comes with ten sides and is shaped like a kite. Its two end corners are the points where the top and bottom corners of the kite-shaped mold meet. This type has numbers between 0 to 9 on each side, with each pair of opposite faces adding to nine.
D100 or Zocchihedron Dice
Though this type doesn’t fit into standard seven-piece dice sets, it finds popular use as a novelty dice. Note that it comes with 100 faces and is near about the size of golf balls. This type is also suitable for a percentile roll in any role-playing game.
D20 Or Icosahedron Dice
Being the most well-recognized and popular type of dice used in “Dungeons And Dragons,” this type comes with as many as 20 faces. It also has a larger structure compared to its other counterparts having lesser sizes.
Every face of this dice is shaped in the form of an equilateral triangle, with the numbers 1 to 20 or 0 to 9 twice mentioned on it. And keep in mind that the sum of the values on the two opposite faces of this die should be 21.
Now that we’ve looked at the basics of dice, let’s move on to the different procedures of making dice from resin. First of all, you should keep in mind that the process will vary slightly based on whether pre-made molds are being used or not.
Making Resin Dice Using Premade Molds
For the time being, we focus on creating resin dice with the help of pre-made silicone molds.
All That You’ll Need
You will need a number of materials and tools for making dice using resin and pre-made molds. Apart from a silicone mold of the dice of your choice and a casting resin of high quality, you’ll need the following items:
Toothpicks to remove resin bubbles and to poke holes into the mold
Three disposable mixing and measuring cups
Decorations and items to embed as per your choice
Plastic or wooden sticks for preparing the mixtures
A clean work surface, preferably of plastic
Mica powders, alcohol inks, other resin colorants
Choosing The Best Casting Resin
The resin used for casting has a slightly lower viscosity than other varieties and is always prepared by mixing two components, viz., the resin in liquid form and a suitable hardener. After these ingredients are mixed, there’s a chemical reaction that releases heat and lets the mixture harden after some time.
While buying casting resin for your dice-making project, you must have these two factors in mind:
Make Sure The viscosity Isn’t Too Low
A resin with very low viscosity will take longer to harden. So, ensure that the viscosity of the product you’re purchasing is not too low.
Check The Information On Its Consistency
The casting resin you’re going for must also have a thin consistency so that it can penetrate the smallest of cavities and gaps. Hence, make sure you check the product information and the customer reviews to ascertain whether it has the right consistency.
We found the Pourable Plastic Clear Casting Resin from Incredible Solutions to be a great choice, as it comes with the ideal consistency and a highly effective formulation.
The Procedure
A. Preparations
There are a few preparatory steps you’ll have to take before beginning the procedure. The first and foremost requirement will be to make sure the workspace is clear and clean since working with resin can be a messy affair.
Also, see to it that the molds chosen are dry and clean and have all the materials and tools within close reach. That’s because once you start working, you will have to complete the procedure in a short span of time so that the dice can begin to set soon.
B. Mixing The Resin And Pouring It
Now is the time to measure and mix the resin, which is the most important part of the procedure. For this part, you need to follow the instructions laid down by the manufacturer on the required quantities of the constituents and the mixing time. That’s because precise amounts of the resin must be added to ensure it cures properly.
Here are the steps you need to follow while preparing the mixture:
Step 1
Check the mixing ratio of the hardener and resin recommended by the manufacturer. Then pour the measured amounts as per this ratio into two different containers.
Step 2
Follow this by pouring the two separate components into another measuring cup. Make sure you pour them as uniformly as you can.
Step 3
Stir these two liquid components thoroughly using a wooden or plastic stick. Scrape the bottom and sides of the measuring cup properly while stirring. The ideal duration for this step, as suggested by most manufacturers, is about 3-5 minutes.
Step 4
In case you want the resin to be of a particular color, you’ll also need to include a little bit of alcohol ink or mica powder. Be careful not to add an excessive amount as that will lead to an inappropriate mixing ratio of the resin solution.
Step 5
Finally, the size of the hole in your mold will have to be adjusted, after which you can pour the resin into it. Use the toothpick to guide the liquid in the opening of the mold.
On a side note, you must take care to pour the resin in a way that there’s no air trapped in any depressions or corners of the dice mold since that can cause bubbles.
C. Embedding Items And Adding Decorations
Before you pour the resin into the mold, you will need to decide whether to keep the die clear or to make it colored and decorated. After you’ve made up your mind, mix the additional items and decorations with the resin so that they set in properly to create the desired look.
Here are some suggestions for the decorative items you can add to the resin.
A dye made from alcohol or a mica pigment can be used to add rich colors to the dice. Note that you’ll need a small amount as these dyes and powders are available in a highly concentrated form.
For clear dice, you may add glitter to the colorless resin or some confetti to make it ideal for a certain theme. Even a small figure can be added to the resin depending on the final outcome as per your needs.
After you’ve decided on the objects to embed, pour some resin into the mold and circle it to cover its sides with resin. Now, see to it that the mold is filled halfway, and position the object in it using a toothpick.
Note that the object should fit in the mold properly and still leave some space to be covered with resin. Finally, you’ll have to fill the mold entirely to ensure the objects are embedded properly.
D. Curing
Now, let the resin dice cure for at least 24 hours prior to handling the mold for the next steps. A light tap on the exposed portion of the resin will help you know whether the mold has cured the right way. Remember that the part should feel dry, hard, and smooth to the touch. However, if it still feels wet or tacky, you have to let it cure for a longer time.
You can expect the waiting period to be between 24 and 72 hours based on the surrounding temperature of the resin and the surroundings. Plus, incorrect measurements or mixing may result in improper curing.
Here’s the best way you can solve this issue. Place the uncured resin dice in a freezer overnight so that it solidifies properly. You can then pop the resin out of its mold and place it in your oven on low heat settings. This will surely help activate the procedure of curing.
E. Demolding
When the dice casting is completely cured, you can start with the demolding procedure, whereby the dice are removed from the silicone molds.
Here are some things to keep in mind during this step:
Take extra care while removing a mold as if it tears, it would become unusable.
There will also be some material along the sides and edges of the mold, which is commonly called sprue. It’s very useful in making up for any unexpected shrinkage in the shape of the dice while it’s curing.
Unless a polished mold is used, the dice might appear cloudy and matte. But don’t worry, you can fix this in the final step.
Finishing Touches
At this point, the procedure is almost complete, and what remains is providing a few finishing touches to the die. And for that, you must proceed as follows:
Step 1
Firstly, you’ll have to remove the extra material or sprue as, despite its usefulness in curing, it can make rolling the die difficult. You can do this using any small sharp tool such as a knife.
Step 2
After you’ve removed the sprue, the surface of the dice would still be slightly rough. To make it smoother, you can wipe it with sandpaper. Initially, using a 150-grit sandpaper piece will be ideal for the smoothening process, but make sure you don’t remove too much resin than required.
Step 3
Continue this process with a 180-grit and then a 220-grit sandpaper piece, and continue increasing the fineness till you’re satisfied with the smoothness. Generally, the sandpaper grit has to be increased to 3000 as that will create a uniform final finish.
A wise precaution to take would be to use water on the surface between every sanding to ensure minimum dust production during the process.
Step 4
The next step would be to polish the dice using resin polish, as that will make the surface smooth and glossy. You can also add some fine details to the dice using acrylic paint, draw borders on its edges, or paint the numbers that you’ve engraved on it.
Another way you can make the numbers prominent is by filling them with ultra-fine point markers. Do it by following the engraved grooves carefully, and you’re good to go.
Making Resin Dice Molds
Once you’re conversant with the basics of making resin dice, you may even try making dice molds. It’s always better to make the molds on your own using silicone, as this would let you come up with dice of multiple looks and designs. So, there won’t be any limit to how creative you can get!
Knowing the different types of molds that can be made is important in this regard. While open-faced molds have one side open to facilitate easy pouring, squish molds are slightly difficult to use since they are divided into two parts.
Try making molds of different shapes and designs to see which one is most suited for you.
All That You Will Need
Silicone resin
Clay or plasticine
A master or original dice
Goggles and gloves
Containers and cups to mix the silicone
Container for the dice
Mixing tool or spoon
Why Is Silicone Rubber The Best For Making Die Molds?
The most noteworthy feature of silicone is that it doesn’t adhere to materials like resin, which makes it the most suitable base for making molds. This makes it effortless to take out the resin piece from the mold. Other advantages of this material include:
It’s highly durable
The molds prepared are reusable
Molds are pliable and soft
It’s safe for use
Choosing A Quality Silicone Rubber Kit
Since you will always want your molds to be perfect, it’s important to choose a good-quality silicone for the purpose. Here are some points to consider while choosing a silicone mold-making kit.
Ease Of Use
The silicone in the kit should be easy to pour and mix and should ideally have a mixing ratio of 1:1 by weight. This will help you prepare the mixture within minutes just by stirring it a little. Plus, the silicone should be able to eliminate all bubbles in a few hours so that no degassing chamber is needed.
And after the silicone cures, it will turn soft, transparent, and flexible, just what you need for making the perfect dice.
Safe For Use
The market is overflowing with silicone products for mold-making that come with toxic substances and may emit suffocating fumes and odors. So, it’s a must to ensure that the silicone you’re going for is totally safe for use.
Versatile
Ideally, the silicone should be usable for all types of dice molds, and along with different decorative items such as mica pigments and glitters. This will ensure you’re able to create just the design and shape that you desire.
In our opinion, the Silicone Mold-Making Kit from LET’S RESIN is an ideal choice for making dice molds quickly and effectively as it meets all the above requirements perfectly.
The Procedure
A. Preparatory Steps
While you’re working with silicone, you must be careful to ensure nothing comes in the way as that might disrupt the procedure and give rise to partially effective results. This is why it’s essential to prepare the working area in the right way, keeping just the things that you need within close reach and removing all other extra items.
Also, you’ll need to be clear about the type of mold that you’ll make, that is, whether it’ll be a one-part or a two-part mold. In this article, we’ll mainly deal with one-part molds that are totally sealed except for a small opening for pouring resin.
B. The Mixing And The Pouring
Prior to mixing the silicone, you must prepare the original dice. After that’s done, heat the tip of a pin and push the heated end into a corner of the dice. Follow this by taking some plasticine and sticking it to the bottom of a container. Then place the pinned corner of the dice into the plasticine while ensuring that the dice is upright and balanced.
Be careful not to use a very big container for the purpose as that will lead you to waste a lot of silicone. Here are the next steps that you need to follow.
Step 1
For mixing the silicone, go through the instructions on the package of the product carefully. Keep in mind silicones from all brands may not have the same curing time or mixing ratio. After you have a clear idea about the mixing ratio and the other essentials, mix both the parts in the silicone kit thoroughly in the mixing cups you’re using.
Step 2
Now it’s time to pour the properly mixed silicone into the container which has the original die. See to it that you cover the die the right way but be careful not to dislodge it. Continue to pour the mixture till it’s around 5 mm above the top of the dice.
Step 3
At this point, you’ll have to do away with the few air bubbles that might persist in the silicone mixture. Tap lightly on the sides of the container, and the bubbles will be released.
Step 4
Finally, you must allow the silicone to cure for the duration mentioned on the packaging or the manual coming with the kit. The majority of products take nearly a day to dry entirely.
Creating the other type, that is, the open-faced dice mold, might seem easier to you if you’re making molds for the first time.
For this procedure, you’ll have to use some plasticine to cover just one face of the dice. This would provide the piece with enough thickness and height to stand upright on its own. Note that half an inch is the perfect height for such a mold.
Now, you must place the piece in the container and pour the silicone into it. After giving it some time to cure, the mold will be ready for use.
Some Interesting Resin Dice Ideas
Mica Shimmer Dice
As mentioned earlier, mica powder is an ideal colorant for resin. And a unique way of using this colorant would be to create an elegant iridescent and shimmer look. You can obtain dice with a white and black marbled texture or that with some metal leaf chunks and pink mica powder.
Here’s how you can get this look in your dice:
Step 1
Mix some mica with the liquid resin and stir until there’s an even distribution of the powder over the resin. Begin the procedure with ⅛ tsp and continue adding more in increasing amounts till you get the color that you want.
To bring in more variation in the color, you can combine alcohol ink with mica powder.
Step 2
Next, pour the resin into the mold and wait for the dice to cure. The resin will be thickened by the mica powder, which will speed up the curing phase.
Using Gold Leaf On The Dice
You can get an eye-catching sparkle effect on your dice using gold leaf. Notably, metal leaf comes in various colors and is basically an ultralight colored foil. It remains suspended in a resin mixture while the glitter sinks to the bottom of a mold.
You can create this effect in your dice in the following steps:
Step 1
Add one metal leaf to the liquid resin to be used for making the dice.
Step 2
Mix it properly with the resin using a stirrer, breaking up any larger piece therein. Repeated stirring will help break up the metal into smaller pieces.
Step 3
Now, pour the mixture into the resin dice mold, pushing the larger pieces in place using a cocktail stick or toothpick.
Step 4
Let the dice cure for the duration advised in the packaging or manual coming with the resin product.
Transparent Dice
Transparent dice have a distinct appeal to them, with light shining through the clear faces of the dice. This ultimately creates an effect similar to that of colored glass or gemstones.
You can choose contrasting colors to create a variety of beautiful effects in such dice. To make such transparent dice, start off by adding a drop of alcohol ink to the resin and stir till there are no streaks of color left in it.
Notably, since alcohol ink is extremely potent, a drop of it is enough to create a light color in the dice. Adding 2 to 3 drops will make the shade medium, and the resin will turn opaque if you include more than four drops. Also, a white colorant can turn it opaque.
After the mixture is ready, continue as per the procedure we’ve described for making dice with pre-made molds.
Safety Precautions While Working With Casting Resin
Although the majority of synthetic resins are harmless after they have been cured completely, there are some health risks associated with their processing. So, here are the precautions you must take while handling resin before it’s cured.
Wearing Gloves
Remember that you should never let liquid resin or either of its components come in contact with the skin, as it can give rise to painful rashes, irritation, and other allergic reactions. And the best way to prevent any such situation is to wear a pair of nitrile gloves to shield the skin.
Wearing Goggles And A Mask
The eyes should always be protected while you’re working with the resin. So, make sure you wear safety goggles during work. Plus, to prevent toxic fumes from entering your body, it’s best to wear a respirator mask.
Maintain Proper Ventilation
Ensure that the room where you’re working is properly ventilated, as the fumes released by the resin will then move away easily. You can use a fan or open one window in the room if necessary.
How To Make Resin Dice Frequently Asked Questions
How To Remove Bubbles That Persist In The Resin Even After Tapping It?
Removing bubbles from the resin mixture after it’s added to the mold can be difficult. Using a toothpick to pop the bubbles directly is a way out. But you’ll have to be very careful as the toothpick must not touch any other part of the surface.
Another method is to heat the mixture slightly using a lighter, as that will make the bubbles rise to the surface and ultimately burst.
Can Resin Dice Be Called Balanced?
A die is regarded as well-balanced if it lands on a variety of random numbers every time, while unbalanced ones land on the same set each time. You can place resin dice in water and spin them around to test whether they are balanced. In case the same number shows on the top after every spin in the water, the die isn’t balanced and vice versa.
How Is Casting Resin Different From Epoxy Resin?
Epoxy resin is much more viscous than casting resin, which is why it dries faster. However, thin layers of paint can be slightly difficult to pour, and you should ensure that the layers are not more than 2 cm thick. On the other hand, several layers of paint can be mixed quickly in casting resin.
How Much Resin Do You Need To Fill An Entire Set Of Dice Molds?
Most of the dice molds for role-playing board games need approximately 147ml or 4.97 oz. of resin.
Final Words
Now that you’ve given our guide a read, we’re sure that you’ve got a grip on the techniques of making resin dice. So, decide on the procedure you want to attempt, gather all that’s needed, and get the ball rolling!
You must also consider the board game for which you’re making the dice, as the design and number of sides will vary based on that. Or else, you might even want to use the dice as a décor item for your home or as a part of jewelry, so add the dice embeds and colors accordingly.
If you have any other queries about making resin dice, write them down in the comments section below, and we’ll try our best to clear your doubts.
With that, we’ll wrap up for now, but there’s more fun content on your way, so watch out for this space. Till then, keep exploring your creativity!
Purifying distilled water involves the process known as "distillation," which eliminates all the nasty bacteria, minerals, and other contaminants, giving you water in its purest form.
Distilled water is ideal for machinery, health and medical devices, watering plants, and other applications requiring clean water.
While you can buy distilled water in the market, making your own distilled water at home would still be ideal and COST-EFFECTIVE.
Homemade distilled water is fairly easy to make. And if you're worried about the science behind it — don't be! We'll give you a step-by-step guide to distilling your own water at home.
How to Make Distilled Water at Home: Step-By-Step Distillation Process
We don't know if these concepts still reside in your mind: liquid water, water vapor, evaporation, and condensation process. These are the concepts you'll encounter when distilling water.
Not that we're always excited by all the science stuff, but we think this will interest you as much as it did us.
What excites us the most is that we can finally cut the cost of buying distilled water. It will be a lot cheaper, plus you can ensure a FULL STOCK since you can make it anytime at home.
Tools Needed to Distill Water
Before anything else, you must first prepare the following materials for this project:
Round baking rack
5-gallon stainless steel pot with lid
Glass bowl
Oven mitts
Ice cubes
Tap water
Once you've gathered all the necessary materials, you're ready to make distilled water at home.
There are only five easy steps to perform water distillation, and we promise this guide will easily teach you the home distillation process.
Step 1: Put the Baking Rack Inside the Pot and Pour the Water
Put the baking rack inside the 5-gallon stainless steel pot, and pour the tap water. You can add up to 2.5 gallons of water.
Basically, you're pouring water into the large pot until it reaches its middle. So, if you're planning to use a smaller pot, remember this rule of thumb.
Step 2: Place the Glass Bowl on Top of the Water
Once you've placed the baking rack inside the stainless steel pot and filled it with water, place the glass bowl on top. Essentially, the glass bowl should stay afloat on the water's surface.
The rack will keep the bowl from touching the base. This ensures enough space for air to circulate around the sides and on top of the bowl.
Step 3: Cover the Pot with the Lid and Fill it with Ice Cubes
Flip the lid UPSIDE DOWN and cover the pot — it should look concave if you're looking at it from the bottom.
After which, fill the inverted lid with ice cubes or an ice pack. Ice is essential in making distilled water. They cause water vapor to quickly condense at the side of the lid facing the inside of the pot.
When water boils, it produces steam. As steam contacts the cold lid, it will turn back into the water, and the droplets will fall into the container.
Step 4: Boil Water
On your stovetop burner, start boiling water between medium to medium-high heat. You want the pot to be hot enough to allow the pot water to simmer but NOT completely boil (around 180 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit).
Keep the water simmering for 45 minutes. Check the ice time and again and REFILL it as necessary. Dump the melted ice on the sink by lifting the lid. Use oven mitts to protect your hands from the hot cookware.
Step 5: Cool and Store
After 45 minutes of distilling water or until all the tap water has evaporated, condensed, and dropped in your bowl, it's time to turn the burner off. The water you collected is already distilled water.
Let the distilledwater cool down completely before storing it in a glass bottle or any clean container. Ensuring the cleanliness of the container ensures that you're storing clean water, which constitutes LONG-TERM storage.
We highly suggest you store distilled water in a cool and dry place away from direct sunlight.
What is Distilled Water?
This physical process of distillation involves changing the state of water from liquid form to water vapor through condensation. Hence, the product of this process is called distilled water.
So basically, distilled water is purified water you get from condensing water vapor or steam out of impure water.
What Distillation Removes from Water
This process eliminates minerals, salt, harmful bacteria, heavy metals, and other contaminants. Hence, it's also known as one of the water purification methods that remove impurities in water.
When purifying water using the distillation method, unwanted nasties are left behind while pure water vapor rises into thin air and re-condenses.
What Types of Water Can You Distill?
There are many types of water you can purify and turn into distilled water. These include:
Tap water
Water from streams
Well water
Snow
Rainwater
Sea water
Plants and damp soil
Methods of Distilling Water
Aside from the distillation method we taught you in the previous sections, other ways exist to make distilled water.
Here are other methods you can try:
Collect water from an outside container - this is quite similar to the pot and bowl method we taught you earlier. But instead of placing the container inside the pot, you use an outside container to collect the distilled water. In this method, you can use a funnel over a boiling water container connected to the collection bottle with aquarium tubing. You must ensure that the tubing is lower than the funnel to successfully drain the distilled water into your collection bottle and secure it tightly with duct tape. This is advantageous, as it minimizes the risk of contamination which is essential if you intend to make drinking water.
Distilled rainwater or snow - rain and snow are also called naturally distilled water. If you remember, in the water cycle, the sea, lake, land, and river water evaporates and condenses in the atmosphere to fall as precipitation. You can collect rainwater or snow with a large container. Keep the water at rest to let the sediments fall at the bottom. If you don't live in highly polluted areas, this pure water is definitely safe to drink. But you can also include filtration procedures using a coffee filter or boiling water.
Home distillation kits - a home distillation kit is also a cheap way to make distilled water, compared to those whose heat source requires fuel or electricity to operate and heat water. The cost of home distillation kits starts at $100. If you intend to purify water for drinking, cheaper kits are already good enough. Expensive kits are primarily used in labs or in making distilled water in large volumes to supply an entire house.
Note
Alternatively, you can also install a water line into your refrigerator for ready access to clean water.
Distill water from plants and mud - you can also make distilled water from basically any water source. One example is by extracting water from desert plants. You only need to:
Dig a hole in the ground,
Place a container at the bottom to collect the distilled water,
Fill in damp plants around the container inside the hole,
Cover the hole with plastic and secure it with rocks or dirt to ensure that no moisture escapes,
Place a pebble at the center of the plastic wrap to make a small depression. When the water evaporates, the water vapor condenses on the plastic, and droplets drip from the depression into your container.
What are the Uses of Distilled Water?
There are different uses for distilled water. While others use it as drinking water, others utilize distilled water for:
Hydrating house plants
Filling humidifiers
Steam ironing clothes
Cleaning wounds
Sterilizing bottles
Home aquariums and fish tanks
Filling CPAP machines
Car maintenance
What are the Benefits of Drinking Distilled Water Over Tap Water
As mentioned, some people prefer or can only drink purified water. That's why they opt to distill water at home, as it costs less than purchasing bottled water in stores.
Compared to tap water, distilled water doesn't contain any impurities. Distilling water removes waterborne pathogens, thus reducing the risk of diseases.
Distilled water is even PURER than filtered water and boiled water. Hence, if you're unsure of the water source, it's better to distill water before drinking.
Distilled Water FAQs
Let’s answer more questions for you!
How Long Does it Take to Distill Water?
The pot and bowl method takes about 45 minutes to distill water. But, if you’re using a larger pot with twice the volume of our indicated measurement, it will likely take longer to finish.
How Long Does Distilled Water Last?
If you store distilled water properly, it will surely last INDEFINITELY. We suggest using an airtight glass container and storing it in a cool and dry place to prevent contamination and bacteria build-up.
Is Distilled Water Safe to Drink?
Yes, you can definitely drink distilled water. But it has a flat taste and has already lost beneficial minerals, like calcium and magnesium, during distillation.
However, if the water contains impurities with a lower boiling point, it might contaminate the vapor, as well as the distilled water.
With its bland taste, dissolved minerals, and possible contamination, it MAY NOT BE THE BEST OPTION for drinking, though it is potable.
What is Another Way to Purify Water?
Reverse osmosis is another purifying technique. But, unlike in distillation, it doesn’t turn water into its purest form.
There you have it; a step-by-step guide to making distilled water, plus all the things you must know about it! Now that you know how to distill water from any water source, you no longer have to rely on store-bought distilled water.
We hope this article was able to help you. Feel free to revisit 'til you master the science behind distilled water!
A soaker hose makes an indispensable part of the gardening arsenal for most homeowners.
Who wouldn’t love having such an efficient watering system handy? You’ll love the virtually hands-free and consistent water supply, while your plants will love the targeted moisture. Win-win, we say!
But if you aren’t looking to spend a lot, you’ve come to the right place. We’ve curated a quick DIY guide that’ll help you make one from the comfort of your backyard. After all, hand-made care for your greens is the best expression of love.
So, without further ado, let’s begin!
What Do I Need To Make A Soaker Hose?
Making a soaker hose may sound like a lot of work, but it’s a fairly simple job. Moreover, you’ll find most materials in your garage. And even if you don’t, buying them won’t make you break the bank! On that note, here’s a list of the things you’ll need:
Charged drill
3/64 or similar drill bit
Electrical tape or hose cap
Garden hose
Garden hose splitter (optional)
A few things to note: while we opted for a charged drill to save time, you can also use a hammer and 20d nail. Look for any discarded hose (like the leaky one you forgot to throw out) before buying one.
Depending on the area to be covered, you might need a couple of those. Whatever be the case, you don’t need to buy a high-quality hose. Going for a cheaper option will also do the job just fine!
Now, let’s look at the steps involved.
Step 1
Lay the hose flat and make evenly spaced holes on one side using the drill or hammer. For best results, make the first hole about 18 inches away from the female end and maintain a distance of 2.5 to 3 inches.
If you want a sprinkler effect, drill the holes on multiple faces but make sure they don’t go all the way through to the opposite side. As the water flows through the hose, it’ll seep out of the holes and directly reach the roots with minimum evaporation.
Step 2
Once you’re done drilling the last hole, grab the end, fold and crimp it off by wrapping with electrical tape. Alternatively, you can screw in a hose cap to create a tight seal. If the leftover portion is too long, trim it before crimping. However, ensure that the length doesn’t become too short. Sealing one end of the hose forces the water to flow out gently from the holes.
Step 3
Leaving enough of the female end loose to connect it to the water source, place the hose in the desired area. If the area is too big, you might need to make another soaker and join the two using electrical tape. Don’t try to stretch a single hose to cover a large area as too much tautness can damage it.
Furthermore, you can also decide if the soaker system should be kept permanent or movable. For the former, we suggest burying the hose around 2 inches deep underground. This is especially beneficial for more water-hungry plants or areas that experience severe drought. Other than that, setting the hose in the soil will also come in handy if you plan to double it for covering multiple rows of plants.
In case you want to keep the soaker hose moveable, it'd be a good idea to secure its position. Use some heavy objects like stones or sticks at every turn to provide adequate support. Make sure that the stone or stick is placed in a way that doesn't damage the hose.
Step 4
With everything done, it’s now time to switch on the water supply. But before that, there’s one small thing that should be taken care of. If the hose isn't compatible with a spigot, it may be challenging to fit it to a tap. In that case, we’d recommend buying a good garden splitter to have an unhindered water flow.
Some General Tips
So that your soaker hose covers all the bases, here are some handy tips to follow:
If the air in your area is too dry, consider burying the hose under a few inches of mulch to minimize evaporation.
In an ideal scenario, it’s advisable to run the soaker hose for a maximum of 30 minutes, twice a week. That said, you may adjust the soaking according to the watering requirements. Apart from that, don’t engage the tap or spigot to its maximum capacity.
Since soaking is essentially a high-precision task, you’d want to keep the water flow nice and slow. We’d recommend opening the tap just enough to allow the water to seep through the holes.
You may get a water hose timer for optimum water conservation. Simply set it up to have a regular reminder about the watering schedule. Moreover, the ones with a built-in rain sensor automatically skip watering if the soil is too moist.
Buried soaker hose should be cleaned regularly. In case of hose cap seals, take out the cap and flush the pipe at least once in two weeks to prevent clogs. And for the ones with an electrical-tape sealing, replace the tape after every wash to keep the pipe usable for long.
Lastly, don’t throw out your old garden hose just because the color has worn off! If it doesn’t have any significant wear and tear, preserve it for future use. Besides, keep an eye on the curb on the trash day for old hoses being thrown out, especially during early spring.
Final Words
So, there you have it - an efficient DIY soaker hose!
Not only does a soaker hose make your job easy, but it also makes you less guilty about bothering your neighbors when you’re on vacation. Trust us; they will be delighted to know that all they have to do is turn on the spigot for a few minutes twice a day.
With that, it’s time for us to bid goodbye. But before we leave, let us share a pro tip: clean the pipe thoroughly before converting it into a soaker hose. This way, you’ll have unobstructed water flow.
It’s true that geodes are one of the most beautiful geological creations. And what if we tell you that you can create one at home?
These rock formations have intrigued geologists and laymen alike because of the beauty that they present. There’s no doubt that they are one of the most enigmatic rock formations that you can come across. But it’s not easy to procure one for use as a decorative item in your living room.
However, you can make a resin geode, which, when done right, looks almost the same as a natural one. But in order to achieve the best results, you need to know how to make resin geodes the right way.
That’s why we have designed this guide with all that you need to know about making resin geodes. With our guidance and your creative instincts, you will be able to create a masterpiece in no time.
So, without any further delay, let’s check it out!
How To Make A Resin Geode
Resin Geodes | The Basics
It goes without saying that resin geodes are not natural, but you can make them look like one with some effort. Natural geodes are rock formations that reveal enchanting forms once they are cracked open.
Resin geodes are artistic alternatives to natural ones. Because the resin is pretty soft when molten, it allows you to play with the patterns and experiment as much as you want. And when it dries up, it hardens to deliver a finished look.
Besides, you can consider putting acrylic gems, crystals, and glass globules to make the resin geodes look even better. And it will surely become one of the centerpieces in your drawing room and a conversation starter at every party. You can consider making it any shape and size that you want. It can be as small as a coaster or as big as a magnificent sculpture!
Making A Resin Geode
Unless you have worked with resin before, the material may seem a little intimidating.
But trust us- it is not very difficult to work with, and once you read this guide, you will have a fair idea about how to finish the job without much hassle. All that you need to do is remember a few important things and remain patient throughout the process.
On that note, here are the steps to make a resin geode.
Step 1
Before you can go into the intricacies of making a resin geode, it is crucial that you be well-prepared. By this, we mean that you should keep all the required materials handy and prepare the workspace properly.
Things That You Will Need
Resins
Masking tape
Decorative items
Wet wipes and cleaning alcohol
Acrylic paints
Spatula and sticks
Wooden panel and non-stretched canvas
Safety gloves, apron, glasses, drop cloths, and a respirator
Once you have all the materials, it is time you begin with the process. The first step is to start mixing the resin and make sure that you strictly adhere to the instructions printed on the package.
Your safety and protection are also important, so make sure that you wear some protective gloves and an apron before working. Likewise, use a respirator and put on safety glasses to protect your face.
Other than that, we’d suggest laying a protective drop cloth on the work surface to ensure that it does not incur any damage. An additional pro tip: tape up all the sides of the canvas properly to ensure that there is no damage in case the resin starts to drip. Even if you see a few drips, just remove the tapes, and cleaning the surface will become super simple.
Moreover, ensure that the surface you are working on is completely stable and straight. If it is slanted, then chances are that the resin will eventually become lopsided.
Step 2
Like most other DIY projects, making a resin geode also requires a good amount of planning. Before beginning with the work, we would suggest that you keep good images and designs of resin geodes as references.
Once you decide on the design, you can simply draw lines accordingly on the canvas to recreate the look. You will find fascinating images of resin geodes on the internet and can choose any that you like.
When you are taking the reference, ensure that you draw the lines and note which color to place next to the other. If this idea does not appeal to you, simply take the line reference and choose to put the colors more spontaneously.
Step 3
After you are done creating designs outlines, you can simply use some acrylic colors to start painting on the canvas. We would suggest that you try sticking to the reference lines to ensure that the design is up to the mark.
During painting, you can choose to make some additions too. Consider putting metallic foils or trendy glitters into the mix.
Step 4
Apart from foils and glitters, you can make other additions too. Some people like adding glass and crystals to their geode designs. If you plan on doing the same, remember that you make the additions only after the paint has dried up.
To make sure that the attachments are secure, use good quality craft glue. This will help the embellishments to stick to their place even after you add a layer of resin.
Step 5
As we have already mentioned before, in order to mix the resin properly, it is an absolute must to read the instructions carefully. We would also recommend that you mix the resin in small bottles so that you can have more color variations and less wastage. You can either add paint or powder in these bottles to get the resin colored according to your choice.
Unless you want the colors to mix spontaneously, you have to follow some procedures. For that, make sure that you put the colors in different containers and apply them one after the other, only when the previous one has dried up.
But we know that there are some people who like the resin mixing naturally and love the unconstrained flow better. It is completely up to you about which method you want to go for. Just keep a wooden stick handy so that you can adjust the resin according to your requirement.
Step 6
For making your resin geode even more beautiful, consider putting glitter-embedded layers in different parts of your canvas. You might be wondering why you should do it so late in the process. So, let us break it down for you.
If you do it earlier, the chances are that the sparkles will settle and not remain significantly visible. In order to keep the resin near the surface, it is best that you add sparkles and glitters in different batches and keep adding them in succession.
Step 7
Besides making great designs, it is crucial to make sure that you maintain your work well. And for that, it is an absolute must to put a clear coat on your resin geode.
Apart from protecting your artwork, it also helps to add an amazing gloss to it. But keep in mind that if you have added a lot of glitters to the resin, adding a clear coat might diminish the texture of the geode. Keep this in mind, and decide accordingly! But rest assured that an effective application of a clear coat will help your artwork look even better.
In case you are making a piece of resin furniture like a table or a wardrobe, make sure that you apply a thick topcoat. This is essential for making the surface smooth and will help you prevent scratches from forming.
How To Make The Best Use Of Resin Geodes?
As John Keats had said, ‘a thing of beauty is a joy forever.’ This holds true for resin geodes as they can be turned into exquisite artworks that will add immense beauty to your home décor. You can try to imitate natural geodes with the help of resins, as we have already discussed, and add a dash of glitter and sequins to make them look better.
Get as creative as possible, and do not be scared of experimenting. Once you do that, you will see that the artwork is turning into something very similar to the natural geodes. And you can use the resin geodes to make tabletops or coasters, anything that you desire. As we said, let your creativity run wild!
A Glow Up With Crystals
After you are done practicing a few times, you can start experimenting with crystals. It is not a difficult process once you get the hang of it. There are 2 main ways of doing it.
Working With Big Crystals
Some crystals are big in size, almost as large as broken glass pieces. When you are dealing with big crystals, we would suggest that you put them on the surface first and hold them in place with the help of craft glue.
Once you are done fixing the crystals on the surface, pour the resin carefully to secure them properly.
Working With Small Crystals
On the other hand, if you decide to use smaller pieces of crystals, it is best to mix them with the resin instead of applying them separately. They will get fixed to the spots as the resin hardens over time. In this case, you can skip a step and get done with the artwork within a short span.
Final Words
That’s all for today, friends!
Hope you had a great time learning about how to make beautiful resin geodes. We also hope that you will be able to implement the methods we have shared for the best results. Also, we wish you loads of good luck and that you have fun times with creating the resin geode.
Keep in mind that creativity is at its peak when you are enjoying the process. So, try to channel your energy to ensure that the beauty comes through. In case you have any more queries, reach out to us in the comments section below. And keep a watch on this space for more interesting reads.
One thing every house improvement enthusiast, DIY geek or interior decorator needs is a dedicated crafting table. A craft table where they can work on the ideas they have and the ideas they have collected from the web. In addition, they need a table that does not interfere with their work-flow, to say the least, but what they hope for is to find or build a craft table that can help them get things done quickly. This article shows a light of hope to DIY enthusiasts who do not know how to make a crafting table that will help them streamline their workflow and organize everything related to the work at hand.
A word of caution, before we begin, the ideas presented here are not definitive, by any means, but then DIY enthusiasts just need a direction and a map. They can figure out the rest on their own. Imagination plays the creator role in this equation and it will set the rules of the game as you play.
5 key considerations when making a crafting table
Space to move around
One of the key considerations when making a craft table is related to space on and around the table. A design of the table should be such that there is enough space on the table to work on the project and there should be enough room around the table to move freely from one place to another when working on a DIY project.
Often people find their movement constrained because of the shape and size of the table, which reduces their productivity. In addition, due to the lack of space on the crafting table, a person needs to shift parts of the project from one place to another in order to make space. Constant toing and froing irritates, to say the least and moving things from one place to another seriously slows down the project.
Another feature that one should keep in mind when making a craft table is storage space. It is important that there is plenty of storage space in the crafting table. It will help in keeping things organized and finding them when needed. When building storage space beneath or above the crafting table, one should always keep in mind that craft items come in various shapes and sizes and there is absolutely no way to know what kind of items you will need to store in the future. Therefore, one should make some removable dividers between the shelves, to make the storage in the table useful in the future as well.
Regardless of what kinds of projects the crafter undertakes, a power source is always required. One should have an electrical board with more than one 6A, 16A and 32A AC power sockets and switches installed in the crafting area. This will save the time that gets wasted in removing one plug and attaching another, this significantly slows down the process. In the absence of a permanent solution, one can at least have a power strip extension board around the craft table, like the one shown below.
One has to be on its feet to complete certain DIY activities, but there are some DIY projects that require the person to sit comfortably to do the task at hand. It is, therefore, important to have a comfortable and preferably height-adjusting chair in the craft room, if the chair has wheels it will be even better. The wheels will be helpful in moving around without getting up from the chair, every time the project demands it.
Ideally one should have a lot of natural light in the crafting room, but if that is not possible than proper artificial lighting should be used. Proper lighting is as important for a good crafting table as anything else discussed above. It is hard to focus on your work in a poorly lit area. In the absence of proper lighting, it would be hard to see the exact output produced at any given point. It holds true for the most of the projects. Although there would be some projects that may not need such a close monitoring, but still it is better to have proper lighting on the craft table. Generally speaking, one needs to constantly check the development of the project in order to rectify the error if and when it happens. This will minimize the wastage. When installing overhead lights, it is recommended to also install table lamps to focus on the project area.
Like proper lighting, proper music is an essential item to have in a crafting room. A music source installed near the crafting table with a good supply of music to keep you engaged is recommended. Music will keep the motivation at the optimum level, which will let the creative juice flow freely.
Bonus Tip - Get inspired
Inspiration boosts creativity. In truly inspired moments creative juices flow like torrents and when it comes to inspiring people nothing works better than written words. It is, therefore, important that one has an inspiration wall made in a prominent place around the crafts table.
The inspiration wall in the craft room should have some inspiring quotes and there should be space to hang things that the person has worked on in the past. As the saying goes, nothing inspires more than success. Nothing inspires more than successfully completed projects.
How to make a perfect all-purpose crafting table
Step one: List down the activities
In almost everything that one does, the first step is always involves knowing one's objective. This holds true for making a craft table as well. The first should be to make a list of kinds of projects you will undertake. This will work as a basic building block for an all-purpose craft table design.
All DIY activities may not need separate setup, but some of them do, so you need to know what kind of space you require to do what. As discussed above, you will also need to build a storage space to keep different kinds of items in or around the crafting table. Make a list of shapes and sizes things that you may want to store.
Material and tools required to make a craft table will almost be the same irrespective of the crafting table you are going to make. However, there could be some specific tools and material that you may need. You should make a list of those as well.
Plywood would be the best material for a craft table, but you can also go for MDF. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. Along with the plywood or MDF, you will also need nails, industrial strength adhesives, laminates, various sizes of screws, measuring tape, wood cutting tools, hammer, drill machine and safety gear to make a crafting table.
Step 3: Measure it and build it
The final step is about execution. The time has come to begin working on your first DIY project, which will work as a platform on which you will bring all your DIY ideas to life. Caution and meticulousness are two important traits at this level. These will help you build the crafting table without wasting your resources.
After all the details have been laid, it is time to get inspired. And we cannot think of a better way to inspire a DIY geek than showing them examples of some exciting yet functional craft tables.
By showing how to make a crafting table that can help you organize everything in one place, the article has tried to emphasize that like any DIY project, making a craft table is also tamable. Like any other project making a crafting table should also be taken as a DIY initiative. The end result will not only produce a wonderful table but also give you immense satisfaction, the importance of which can never be overstated.
What’s worse than knowing there’s a mosquito around you? The inability to locate it!
That irritating buzzing, combined with occasional wing flaps and the thought of them carrying some disease - don’t even get us started on the frustration! You set out on a desperate search for their hideout, but all in vain.
If you’re yet to face this, we assure you the day is closer than you think. But that’s only till you find an effective way to prevent it. And that’s why, we have come with a dozen DIY methods to help you in luring a mosquito out of hiding.
From natural ingredients to market-bought tools and even your body, we have covered it all for you to take a pick.
To get the ball rolling, let’s talk about one of the most reliable DIY methods - the yeast trap. These pests have a natural liking for CO2 (carbon dioxide), and its high content in yeast acts as the bait for them.
To set up this trap, here are the things you will need:
Active yeast
Brown sugar
1 cup boiling water
Plastic soda bottle
Duct tape
Spray paint/black construction paper
Setting The Trap
To begin with, carefully cut the empty soda bottle just below the neck area (where it flares out to meet the main section). Remove the cap from the resultant ‘neckpiece,’ and insert it into the bottom cylinder in an inverted manner, resembling a funnel.
While at it, don’t push the neck all the way down to the bottom of the cylinder. Ensure that you leave enough room to accommodate a cup of liquid and some air space. Using duct tape, secure the funnel with the bottle.
Not only does the tape hold the funnel in place, but it also seals the edges through which the mosquitoes might escape. Once done, cover the bottle using spray paint or construction paper. Leave it to dry.
Next, add about ¼ cup of brown sugar to 1 cup of boiling water. Stir thoroughly until the sugar is completely dissolved. Then, leave this solution to cool until you can comfortably stick your finger into it.
If the solution is too hot, it will kill the yeast. On the other hand, if it’s too cold, the yeast will not activate fully. So ideally, the temperature should be between 120 and 130 degrees Fahrenheit. Hence we’d recommend using a cooking thermometer to keep the temperature in check.
When the solution reaches the correct temperature, gently mix in a packet of yeast and pour it down the funnel. Your yeast trap is ready! Since the trap is meant to attract mosquitoes, don’t keep it too close to your sofa or bed. Instead, place it near the outer perimeter of the rooms.
How Does It Work?
Yeast reacts with sugar to release CO2 in a process known as fermentation. The mosquitoes follow the trail of CO2 to enter the bottle and get trapped due to the sealed edges. After some time, they get fatigued and drown into the solution. If you see too many mosquitoes getting trapped, change the solution frequently to keep it effective.
Likewise, you may adjust the quantity of yeast and sugar according to your requirement.
High velocity fans can be converted into an excellent mosquito trap with a little work. While you may also use a box fan, we prefer high-velocity fans as they produce a large volume of air.
Here are the things you will need:
High-velocity fan
Mesh screen
Strong magnets/plastic zip ties
Rubbing alcohol
Water
Paper towel
Spray bottle
Scissors
Setting The Trap
Firstly, place the fan near an area that you think houses the most mosquitoes (the rear side should face that area). If there’s no power outlet there, get hold of an extension cord. Once you’re happy with the placement, take the mesh screen and cut it to match the size of the fan’s face (round metal frame).
Make sure that the holes aren’t too small for the mosquitoes to pass through. Then, wrap it tightly around the fan so that the edges of the screen overlap with the frame’s sides. Secure it firmly using magnets. If your fan doesn’t have a flat metal frame, use plastic zip ties.
On the side, add equal parts of rubbing alcohol and water in the spray bottle.
How Does It Work?
Switch on the fan at a moderate speed. As it draws air to blow out from the front, the mosquitoes also get sucked (like a vacuum cleaner) to get trapped in the mesh screen. Let the fan run for some time.
Next, turn off the fan and spray the diluted alcohol on the screen with focus on the trapped mosquitoes. The rubbing alcohol will kill them. Ensure that you don’t get anything into the motor. At the same time, drench the paper towel with the same solution and place it directly below the fan.
Very carefully, take off the mesh screen and tap it lightly, so that the mosquitoes fall on the towel. Dispose of both and wipe the fan clean with a dry cloth.
The Beer Trap
You can also substitute the yeast and sugar solution for half a can of old beer. Several studies have shown that although mosquitoes don’t like the taste, they have a natural inclination towards the smell of alcohol.
Increase CO2
If you are too impatient to wait for the yeast trap to work, spraying a bike inflator will get the job done rather quickly. However, you need to be extremely careful while working with it, as increased CO2 levels can cause dizziness, nausea, headaches, faster heartbeats and a lot of other health complications.
Thus, we’d not recommend employing this method in very closed spaces. Furthermore, use a mask and ventilate the area thoroughly once you get rid of the mosquitoes.
A safer method to do this would be to purchase a mosquito magnet. Modern mosquito magnets use a catalyst, which is practically a set of ceramic beads or a ceramic grid coated with platinum. This catalyst directly converts the propane to release heat and CO2 without requiring a flame.
Moreover, the octanol (a chemical that attracts mosquitoes) cartridge also intensifies the appeal. The resultant combination of gases and chemicals draws mosquitoes, who then come near the source. As they get closer, a vacuum-like fan sucks them into a net bag, where they dehydrate and die.
The biggest advantage of using a mosquito trap is that it doesn’t release any harmful byproducts, like carbon monoxide or nitrogen oxides. Besides, the lack of flame reduces the risk of fire accidents.
The Flower Method
Besides amping up the ambiance of your room, flowers also lure mosquitoes out of their hiding. Since they love feeding on the nectar, you will notice quite a few mosquitoes around the flowers, especially at night. Buy yourself a bouquet or keep an assortment of your favorite flowers in rooms most affected by these pests.
And as we were not very confident about our ability to kill them with our bare hands, we fell back to a zapper.
Although this method may not show speedy results like the yeast trap, it’s effective nonetheless. Make sure to keep the flowers fresh or replace them as soon as they start drying out.
Using Fragrance
Colognes and perfumes that have a floral fragrance are said to attract mosquitoes. Additionally, skincare products that contain lactic acid (which is also produced naturally by humans with sweat) are incredibly enticing for them. Pour a few drops of any such product on every nook and corner of the house to make the mosquitoes come out.
Alternatively, you can also wear your favorite perfume or put on some lotion and then walk around the areas which tend to house the most mosquitoes. In that case, remain cautious to prevent those annoying mosquito bites!
An important thing to note here is that not all fragrances are likable for mosquitoes. So, using products that smell like the following may not serve the purpose of bringing them out:
Garlic
Basil
Lemongrass
Peppermint
Neem (also known as Azadirachta Indica, nimtree, or Indian Lilac)
Systematic Searching
The systematic searching technique is most useful for finding (and killing) mosquitoes in confined spaces. Plus, you don’t need any fancy gadgets to accomplish the task. A flashlight, zapper, and some concentration will do the job!
In case you plan to use this method for a larger space, here’s how you can do it. Start with confining the place as much as possible. You can use moveable furniture or large cardboard boxes to do this (but keep sufficient space for you to move around). Once done, close all doors and windows, and dim the lights.
Using a flashlight, scan every inch of the wall, floor and ceiling. Blow slightly near the corners for the CO2 effect; this should bring the mosquitoes out from their hiding. Be careful not to lose focus and zap quickly as soon as you spot them.
Light Trap
You can also implement this plan with a little alteration and without confining the space. Turn on a small light source and keep it stationary. Keep the flashlight turned off for the time being. After some time, the mosquitoes are likely to follow the light and settle on a nearby surface.
Now, slowly move the flashlight to that position while keeping focus on the mosquito. This will cast a bigger and better shadow for you to zap it away.
The Technology Trap
The technology trap works pretty much the same way as systematic searching, where you don’t even have to get out of your bed.
Switch off the lights in your room and get cozy under the blanket. Then, increase the brightness of your phone or tablet to the maximum. Here, you can continue holding the device, or you can place it on your chest (over the blanket). The mosquitoes will definitely follow the light, come near you, or even sit on the screen.
Again, don’t lose vision on them. Keep your zapper ready and reflexes sharp to deliver that killer strike, but make sure you don’t damage the device.
Stagnant Water
It’s a no-brainer that stagnant water is a preferable breeding ground for mosquitoes. But what if we told you that you could also use it to trap them? By adding household items to stagnant water, you can turn them into virtually death traps.
Oil
A thin layer of oil can effectively trap mosquitoes, along with suffocating the larvae. For this, you can use any natural oil like vegetable, olive, or cinnamon oil. Moreover, you don’t need more than 1 teaspoon per gallon of water. However, don’t use it for water bodies that have fish.
Soap
Adding a few drops of any soap to a body of stagnant water reduces its surface tension, which in turn, drowns the mosquitoes.
Apple Cider Vinegar
Sure, this all-organic substance doesn’t kill adult mosquitoes, but is potent enough to wipe off larvae when used in higher concentration.
Bleach
Much like apple cider vinegar, bleach can be used to kill the larvae. And since it’s essentially a toxic substance, make sure that the diluted water doesn’t mix with drinking water or feed plants and animals.
Till now, we’ve seen the use of everyday objects to lure mosquitoes out of their hidings. But to be honest-nothing attracts them more than a human body. So, in the following sections, we discuss how you can use your body to form that ideal bait.
Using Pore Secretions
Upon eating certain food, our pores secrete certain substances like salt, potassium and lactic acid that attract thirsty female mosquitoes looking for blood like no other. Crisps, salty potato snacks and soups are a few things that increase the level of salt in our body.
Similarly, sugary treats mimic the nectar-like sweetness of flowers. On the other hand, fruits like avocado and bananas are a rich source of potassium. And if you enjoy a glass of beer or two in the day, the job is already done.
If you want to employ this method, be extra cautious to avoid food that can affect your health.
Using Body Heat
It may come as surprising for many that mosquitoes can pick up thermal sensory information even from a distance. Simply put, they are naturally fond of warmed body animals because of their blood-producing abilities. This is one of the reasons why people who feel hot to touch are more prone to mosquito bites.
Hence, increasing body temperature can effectively lure mosquitoes, and there are several ways to do that.
Working Out
The heat, sweat and odor that your body produces after a good workout is simply irresistible for mosquitoes. But if working out per se is not quite your thing, you may even go for a run or do some heavy duty cleaning.
After you’re done, walk around the room to bring out as many mosquitoes as possible before your body temperature and breathing become normal.
Take A Hot Shower
While taking a hot (not lukewarm) shower may not make you sweat or breathe profusely, the resultant body temperature is still good for mosquitoes to hang around. Apart from that, sitting by a fireplace or getting snuggly under a blanket will also have the same effect.
The only thing to keep in mind for this technique is that you need to bear the heat for long enough to sweat considerably. Otherwise, it won’t show any significant results.
Assistance From A Mom-To-Be
Okay, this is us going over the top, but pregnant women are more susceptible to mosquito bites. As you may already know, frequent hot flashes are a common pregnancy symptom, thereby making them more attractive to these pests. In addition, the extra body weight during this time causes intensive breathing that makes them exhale more CO2 than usual.
So, if you have a pregnant friend or family member, it may not be a bad idea to ask them for help. However, this is a risky attempt, as mosquitoes are active carriers of many diseases. Ensure that you kill them before they can bite her to prevent any mishap.
Wait For A Full Moon Night
Aligning your mosquito hunt with a full moon night may not sound very romantic, but will get your job done more effectively nonetheless. Several studies have proven that for unknown reasons, mosquitoes become 500% more active during a full moon than on any other day.
So, grab your zapper or mosquito magnet to pull off a (not so) fun all-nighter!
Final Words
The list was long because we didn’t want to leave out any trick from the book!
From their buzzing to the carrying of diseases, mosquitoes are every bit annoying. That’s why, it’s important to get them out of their hiding and get rid of them.
But it’s still advisable to keep them away in the first place. And the best way to achieve this is by keeping your surroundings clean. Additionally, use natural mosquito repellents and carry out regular mosquito control drives with the help of professionals. Prevention is better than cure for a reason!
On that note, it’s time for us to wrap up today’s guide. We hope that by now, you have decided on a method for your next weekend's activity. Do let us know about it in the comments down below.
Outdoor Christmas trees can be stopped from blowing over through various means, like planning the tree’s location to securing it in its position. Keeping the tree as stationary as possible without it toppling over will help it remain pristine and gorgeous throughout the holiday season.
Artificial or natural, Christmas trees tend to fall over during strong winds, which can become frustrating very quickly.
And Christmas celebrations are smack-dab in the middle of the winter season, which means that you will see your tree topple very frequently. Of course, stopping this from happening will keep your tree looking just as good as it did the day you set it up.
So, here’s a guide to preventing trees from blowing over and sustaining unnecessary damage.
How to Keep Outdoor Christmas Trees From Falling Over
Winter winds can be very strong, and depending on where you live, they can be downright tempestuous. This makes the problem of fallen Christmas trees a difficult one to solve, particularly since it can damage both the tree and the Christmas decoration. After all, replacing broken ornaments and mending damaged tree branches can become a nightmare to deal with throughout the holidays.
If you’ve had prior experience with this issue, you may have already figured out what has to be done to solve it. The gist of it is to keep the tree stationary so no gust of wind is strong enough to knock your tree down. Of course, the difficulty of the problem lies with the approach rather than the immediate solution.
So, here’s what you can do to keep your outside Christmas tree from falling over in the winter winds:
Position your tree in the right spot
Use wires and stakes to secure the tree
Make use of heavy outdoor Christmas décor and tree ornaments
Get the right tree stand with a wide base
1. Picking The Right Location
Positioning your tree well can very well be the difference between a gorgeous, fully intact Christmas tree and a damaged, unsightly one.
One of the best ways to keep the tree from toppling over is to keep it in a sheltered location. By doing so, you will be limiting the chances of it facing strong gusts of wind, keeping it safe from any potential damage. Additionally, there will be no need to move it for the remainder of the Christmas and holiday season, making the decorative process a one-time task.
Places like the front porch or the patio provide ample shelter for the tree while making it the focal point of your home. The aesthetics of your home will be preserved while the tree remains safe from the elements.
Another great place to set up a Christmas tree for holiday-themed aesthetics is the yard. Of course, most yards are open and lack any surrounding structures to shield the tree, creating a few problems for the Christmas décor. That said, this can be worked around without any issues.
You can look at the weather forecasts and keep track of the wind direction using wind devices. Consider placing the tree next to your backyard shed or the house itself, based on the wind direction. That way, you will be able to shield the house quite easily without having to worry about the tree falling over constantly.
Thus, it all comes down to the wind direction and how you position the tree in relation to the nearby buildings and sheds.
2. Use Stakes Or Guy Wires To Secure The Tree
Unfortunately, there is a chance that the wind direction is simply not favorable for your Christmas tree. And if there are no surrounding structures to block the wind, the tree being knocked over by strong wind seems inevitable.
In such an event, you can use the simplest of all solutions: tie the tree down. While this can be somewhat difficult to hide, especially if your tree is large, it is a solution that won’t make an unsightly mess.
Securing the tree with stakes or guy wires is simple. To do so, you’ll only need a set of guy wires or ropes, stakes or tent spikes, and a large hammer. Simply follow the steps detailed below to wire your tree easily.
Step 1: Fasten A Guy Wire Or Rope Around The Tree Trunk
After sizing the tree properly, fasten a guy wire around the trunk as tightly as you can. Ensure that the knot doesn’t come off by tugging on it lightly, after which you may proceed to tie the wire to a stake.
Step 2: Tie The Rope To A Tent Spike, Stake, Or A Baluster
Tie the wire or rope to a stake, tent spike, or porch baluster based on what you have available close to the tree. If you’re using either of the first two, note that you must ensure the tent spike has been driven far enough into the ground. You’ll want the spike or stake to act as the anchor for the duration of the holiday season, after all.
An important thing to note with regard to balusters is that they need to be strong enough to hold the weight of your tree. There have been a few cases where the balusters snapped in half under duress, which can be a headache to mend. While not the best solution, balusters can be a decent option if tent spikes or stakes aren’t available.
Step 3: Repeat The Steps For Several Stakes Or Tent Spikes
Set up a few other tying spots to make sure the weight of the tree is distributed among multiple tent pegs or balusters. Additionally, it’s usually best to arrange the tying spots in a circular pattern. That way, your tree will have enough support not to topple over in any direction.
And lastly, ensure that the stake-and-guy-wire setup isn’t a tripping hazard in your front lawn or backyard. An accidental tripping can easily undo all your hard work with the tree, which can put a damper on your festivities very quickly. So, it’s for the best not to space the stakes out more than a foot from the tree.
3. Use Heavier Christmas Decorations And Ornaments
If you’re looking to immobilize your tree, why not weigh it down to the point that it cannot move freely at all?
Using heavy ornaments and larger decorations can achieve just that, with their addition increasing the overall weight of the tree. And with an appropriate amount of Christmas decorations fastened to the tree branches, the tree will have enough mass to withstand strong gusts.
Advise
This only applies to larger trees since the branches of smaller trees would simply break under the weight. At most, you can hang a couple of baubles and garlands on the smaller trees before they deform or snap.
So, once you’ve gathered your hanging decorations and ornaments, try to make sure that the tree branches are thick enough not to be easily damaged. Natural trees like white spruce and Fraser Firs can easily handle heavy items, while you will require a wide and large artificial Christmas treefor the same purpose.
Tip
Try not to crush the short needles of white spruce, as it can spread an unpleasant odor around the environment. It’s better to be cautious when decorating this tree.
Baubles can be affixed to an outdoor tree using twist cable ties that allow you to attach each ornament to the branches. Tie them well enough, and they will not budge in the winter winds. And make sure you place several of these spherical ornaments all around the outdoor tree to spread the weight around equally.
Pair these with inflatable decorations, decorations made with paper and ribbons and string lights for a complete Christmassy feel. Do note that Christmas inflatables might not withstand a windy night, so feel free to take them down before you call it a night.
4. Pick A Tree With A Wide Base
The wider the tree base, the more difficult it will be for anything to knock it over. That includes wind as well.
By increasing the surface area of the tree base, you can effectively give the tree a solid foundation that keeps it still no matter what. The increased stability is good, but the wider base can practically make the natural or artificial tree immovable if you add weights to it.
Wondering how? It’s as simple as filling up small plastic store bags with rocks or sand and placing them over the base. That is all there is to improve the stability of your Christmas tree.
For smaller trees, even an outdoor umbrella stand can work well enough as a Christmas tree base. All you need to do is make sure that the pipe diameter of the umbrella stand is wide enough to accommodate the tree trunk. Once that is done, you can weigh it down using a sandbag or tie straps to reinforce its stability further.
What if you had a larger tree? If so, you can use a metal fence post base instead that is functionally the same as an umbrella stand. The only extra step with a metal fence post base is that you will need to affix the base to the location of your Christmas tree. For decking and patio, you may need to drill holes into the deck or the concrete floor to secure the base as well.
Lastly, if you live in a particularly windy area, you can combine all the methods listed here to make your Christmas tree immune to wind. Your tree will stand tall when faced with anything that isn’t a heavy storm.
Can I use a regular tree stand for an outdoor Christmas tree?
You may be able to do so, provided that you remain vigilant of certain factors. To use a regular tree stand for an outside Christmas tree, you must abide by one of the following conditions:
Live in an area that doesn’t face high-speed winds
Shelter the natural or artificial tree well
Use guy wires or tie straps to secure the tree completely
Use heavy ornaments to weigh the tree down
A wider tree stand is better than a regular one in almost all scenarios, so consider switching to one as it is a convenient solution.
How do I maintain an outdoor Christmas tree during windy weather?
Caring for a Christmas tree can be challenging, especially if your tree is a natural one. A natural tree needs up to a gallon of water every day to appear fresh and vibrant, something artificial trees don’t need at all.
Here are a few tips to take care of your tree during bad weather conditions:
Before decorating, keep the tree sheltered in a cool porch or patio
Cut cleanly across the bottom of its trunk
Use LED lights for both artificial and natural trees for low heat exposure
Consider recycling the tree after the holidays are over
Check the water level of your tree every day
An evergreen tree can last several weeks with proper care and can be recycled for further use. Usually, this can be done through local Christmas tree recycling programs.
But if it dries up completely, or if your fake tree can’t be repaired, you may want to dispose of the Christmas tree.
Can I use a fake tree outdoors?
Artificial trees can be used outside safely, provided that they are designed for it. Some material types, like textiles and plastics, can’t withstand direct solar, rain, and wind exposure, causing them to fade over time. On the other hand, even prelit trees can be used outdoors, depending on the make.
Consider the manufacturer’s recommendations before purchasing an artificial Christmas tree for outdoor use.
As a temporary solution, you can make your tree fade-resistant by using a UV-resistant spray. You can find these on the market based on the materials used to make the plant.
Final Words
Outdoor Christmas trees can be prone to blowing over in windy weather, which is why you should provide them with ample support. After all, there’s no better way to ensure that your festive spirits remain high all holiday long than a vibrant Christmas tree standing tall.
No matter what kind of Christmas tree you choose, it’s always good to take precautionary measures to keep it upright. The methods listed in this guide, along with DIY methods like weight bags, will help prevent the tree from falling over.
And lastly, don’t forget to take good care of your natural Christmas tree! It needs as much care as any other plant, requiring plenty of water and gardening care before it’s ready for you to decorate. With that, your tree will be the brightest beacon of your home throughout the Christmas season, bar none.
Installing a wire brush on an angle grinder is similar to installing any other blade attachments. You need to dismantle the blade guard and arbor nuts to take the old blade out and install the new wire brush. After re-attaching the parts, you can use the grinder again.
An angle grinder is one of those tools that you will always find in the toolshed of a DIYer. Thanks to its versatility, it can be used for a wide range of household tasks.
In fact, if you use a wire wheel, you can use the angle grinder to clean grime and debris off of a surface as well. But from our experience, many users do not know how to install one, which keeps them from fully utilizing this functionality.
That is why we have addressed it in this brief guide. So, if you are curious, dive in!
What Are Angle Grinder Wire Wheels?
Before we proceed to the meat of this article, let us discuss a little bit about what wire wheels are. If, by any chance, you haven’t heard of the term before, then this will give you a good idea.
Wire wheels are a specialized attachment that you can use on angle grinders to clean and deburr a surface. In some cases, it can also be used to scrub paint off surfaces. Such a feat is made possible owing to the design of this attachment.
Unlike other angle grinder blades, wire-based attachments come with numerous metallic bristles attached to the edges. These bristles are generally made from hard and springy steel, which makes them tough enough to scrape off materials from a surface. Some manufacturers may use brass, copper, or even stainless steel, which improves the durability of the bristles.
On that note, there are two different types of wire-based angle grinder attachments available today - wire wheel and wire cup brush. Despite being used interchangeably, there are certain differences between these two, as we have discussed below.
1. Wire Wheel
Typically, the wire wheel is shaped like most other angle grinder discs. The wire bristles are attached along the edge of the disc, while the base or the center of the disc is attached to the angle grinder.
Out of the two wire-based attachments, this is more popular among users. It is due to this reason that people refer to all wire-based attachments as wire wheels. In terms of utility, this attachment is beneficial for clearing out edges, crevices, and cracks.
2. Wire Cup Brush
As the name suggests, the wire cup brush is an attachment that is shaped like a concave cup. Here, the bristles are attached at the edges, and they are situated perpendicularly to the base of the cup.
The bristles of this attachment are made of the same materials as the ones used in wire wheels. Because of the design, wire brushes are commonly used to scrape and polish flat surfaces.
How To Install Wire Wheels/Wire Brushes On Angle Grinders?
Even though wire wheels and wire brushes are quite different in design compared to conventional angle grinder blades, the procedure for their installation remains almost similar.
Now, many models today come with convenient mechanisms that allow you to remove the angle grinder blade without a tool. But if you have an older model, you can remove and install the wire brushes just like any other angle grinder attachment using the process we have described below.
Step 1: Remove The Blade Guard
First, you need to unplug the grinder and remove any batteries just to be safe. Then dismantle the blade guard by removing the screws that hold it in place. In some models, the blade guard may be attached with a latch, so make sure to dislodge it before proceeding further.
Step 2: Dismantle The Old Blade
You need to carefully remove the arbor nut that attaches the blade to the machine. Next, pull the blade out of the angle grinder spindle gently. Before you do that, though, make sure that you lock the blade by pressing the blade lock button. It is usually located near the switch, and it stops the blade from spinning unnecessarily while you remove it.
Step 3: Attach The Wire Wheel
After removing the old disc, place the new wire wheel over the spindle. Make sure to align it properly with the grinder so that you can seamlessly attach the arbor nut. In case of wire cup brushes, however, you can directly attach or thread the brush wheel to the spindle. This means that the previous steps might not be necessary in that situation.
Step 4: Reassemble The Grinder
Once the wheel is in place, carefully reattach the arbor nut with a wrench. Make sure not to tighten it too much, as it can damage the nut. Then reattach the blade guard, and put the battery back in the machine. After that is done, you will be good to go!
Using Your Angle Grinder
Knowing how to install a wire brush or wire wheel isn’t enough - you also need to know how to use an angle grinder. That’s what we have discussed in this section, so we suggest that you keep reading.
When operating an angle grinder, you need to use the correct technique, or else you won’t be able to do a good job with it. This is especially true in the case of wire wheels.
Make sure to set the correct spinning speed while using the angle grinder. Using an angle grinder at high speeds makes it very difficult to control, and unless you are an experienced user, we would not recommend it. That said, the speed shouldn’t be too low either so that you can get the job done effectively.
You should also consider the angle and pressure at which you hold the angle grinder to the surface. And be careful and attentive while using it as this is a pretty powerful tool, and even the slightest mistake might lead to a serious accident.
Keeping that in mind, here are some safety tips you should follow when using angle grinders.
Wear protective gear like a face shield, goggles, and gloves
Keep your workplace clutter-free
Do not work on wet surfaces
Keep all flammable materials away from the grinder
Ensure you have a fire extinguisher nearby
Make sure the power outlet isn’t faulty
How To Install Wire Brush On Angle Grinder Final Words
Installing and using a wire brush on an angle grinder is a better strategy than scrubbing and polishing surfaces manually. Not only do you save a lot of time and effort, but you can also do a better job.
However, using a heavy-duty power tool like an angle grinder comes with its fair share of risks, which is why people may tend to avoid it. But if you follow the safety tips we have discussed, you will be completely safe.
And once you get the hang of it, you won’t want to go back to manual scrubbing and polishing ever again!
You will need all the right tools to drill holes and a back mount bracket to install the battery-operated push button unit at an accessible-height outside the main door. Follow the instruction manual further to place the doorbell chime receiver and connect the transmitter within the compatible wireless range.
Without doorbells, how would your guest announce their arrival? If your electrical system is already in place, you might want to avoid hardwiring a manual doorbell to it. And to eliminate this problem, you can choose to get wireless doorbells.
On purchasing a wireless doorbell, you will also have to learn how to install it. And to help you with that, we have come up with this guide.
Let’s take a look!
Three Things To Remember During Wireless Doorbell Installation
1. The Receiver Must Be Within Hearing Range
The point of a wireless door chime is to hear it when it rings. And to ensure that happens, you must place the receiver at a place where the wireless doorbell can be audible. It should be audible from your lawn or backyard as well.
In case the door chimes are not audible, consider purchasing extenders, and you will be able to hear the chime from anywhere on your property.
2. Receiver Should Be In The Range Of The Transmitter
If you do not have experience working with electronics, you might not know what doorbell transmitters are. Well, there’s nothing too complicated about them. A transmitter is what carries the signal from the doorbell button to the receiver. To make things easier, you might install a number of doorbell transmitters that can be easily accessed from anywhere in the house.
But, as we have mentioned before, wherever you install the transmitters, make sure that the receiver is within range of the wireless doorbells you are installing.
3. Install Extenders If Needed
For people who are trying to install a wireless doorbell system for their big mansion or large office space, a doorbell extender can be of great help. It can easily increase the range of the wireless doorbell.
If you are wondering how that works, let us explain it to you. An additional transmitter will carry the signals from the doorbell to the receiver, even from a long distance. So, even if the receiver is far from the door, the chime unit will function as effectively.
Steps To Installing A Wireless Doorbell System
Step 1: Plugging In Wireless Doorbell Chime Units
To begin with, you will need to locate a 120V outlet which needs to be near the door. You might need a higher or lower outlet capacity as well. To know the perfect requirements, read the instruction manual that comes with your wireless doorbell.
Also, when installing wireless doorbell chime units, it is essential that you place them strategically to make sure that the ringing can be heard from all areas. If you take our suggestion, go for the front hallway, as that provides a direct line of sight to the front door.
Step 2: Putting The Battery In The Push Button Compartment
For this step, you will first have to get your hands on a flathead screwdriver. Once you have it, put it to use and open the battery door casing on the push button unit. Then proceed to insert the batteries that come with it.
While at it, take proper caution and check twice if the battery has been placed correctly and is facing the right direction. Once done, it’s time to put back the battery door casing.
Step 3: Choosing The Right Location For the Push Button Unit
During a wired doorbell installation, it is an absolute must that you choose the right height. In general, you cannot go wrong if you keep the height between 44 and 48 inches for the doorbell push button. This will make accessing the doorbell easier for your guests.
To make the process more smooth, try placing the push button on the doorframe side and not on the hinge side.
Step 4: Time To Put The Push Button To The Test
Once you are done placing the push button near the door, it is time for you to test if it’s functioning properly. To confirm that the placement is right and the transmitter is catching the signal properly, press the push button.
If you hear an audible ring, you have done a good job so far!
Step 5: Mark The Screw Locations
To finally put the push buttons in place, you will need a back mounting plate, which comes with the package itself. Follow the steps mentioned in the doorbell instructions manual to make sure that you mark the drill hole locations correctly.
Not to mention, you might come across a push-button unit that makes use of the back of the housing as a plate. In that case, use the flathead screwdriver to open the unit and then proceed to mark the drill hole locations.
Final Step: Installing The Push Button Unit
The last step is to drill pilot holes in the wall that are not more than half the diameter of the actual mounting screws. Then proceed to attach the mounting plate and ensure that the mounting screws holding the plate are properly tightened.
Once the screws are tightened, the push button will be properly installed, and you can start using it.
What Are The Common Problems With Wireless Doorbell Installation?
1. Poor Signal Transmission From Push Button To Chimes
With a bit of research, you will know that unplasticized polyvinyl chloride (uPVC) or metal can hinder the transmission of radio signals. Because of this, your signal range might get limited, and the connection between the push button and the chime box might be affected.
So, if you have a uPVC or metal door, or window, it is best that you place the push button far from it. This might get really difficult if you have metal studs on the walls of your house. If you have installed the push button in front of the metal studs, there is no option but to relocate the button somewhere else to improve transmission.
2. Ineffective Chime Ring
You might find yourself in a pickle when the doorbell stops chiming or might be left wondering “why does my wireless doorbell keep ringing?”. This mostly happens when the push button unit has run out of power or when the chime’s outlet is malfunctioning.
To fix this problem, you will have to start by removing the chime unit from the electrical outlet. Once you are done doing that, put another device in place to check if the outlet is getting power. If this device is not functioning as well, you will have to check the circuit breaker and fix the power outlet.
Another common problem that users face while installing is placing the battery incorrectly. Wireless doorbell batteries are quite small in size, and people often confuse them with another type. So, before you insert batteries, take some time to ensure that you are using the right ones.
Also, before coming to the conclusion that something might be wrong with the chime control button, double-check your battery placement. It’s not uncommon for users to install it backward. If you have done the same thing, flip it and put it in its right orientation.
3. Low Chime Volume
To make it convenient for users, most wireless doorbells now come with a volume control option. So, according to your requirements, you can turn the volume up or down. And when away from home, you can even consider turning the sound off completely.
To know how to make these adjustments, make sure you read the manual carefully.
Tip
Many times, people change the security codes on their wireless doorbell system by mistake. Make sure to enter the right security code; otherwise, your doorbell will fail to chime.
4. Battery Needing Frequent Replacement
The lifespan of a doorbell battery depends on the surrounding temperature of the area in which the device is placed. For example, if you stay in a cold climate and the temperature falls below 41 degrees Fahrenheit, the batteries are likely to degrade sooner. This is especially true for the small push batteries that go in doorbells.
To sort out this issue, there is no other option but to replace the batteries from time to time. As you cannot adjust the weather conditions, we suggest you plan on changing the batteries in the doorbell more frequently during winter.
Warning
Take special care to ensure that the battery unit is always dry and in no way collects moisture. If the unit gets wet due to snow or rain, there is a high chance that the battery terminals in the doorbell unit will rust faster.
In that case, replacing the batteries won’t be enough; you will have to consider changing the push button unit. In the worst-case scenario, you might have to replace the entire doorbell system.
How To Install A Wireless Doorbell Final Words
Installing a doorbell is no difficult feat and can be done quite efficiently if you follow all the steps that we have mentioned above.
Once you are done installing it, play around and select a chime tone of your choice. If you have two receivers, make sure you select different sounds for both. This will help you understand when to answer which door.
If there are issues that you run into after the installation is over, troubleshoot them at the earliest. In case you face any difficulty fixing them on your own, we suggest calling a professional for help. And if things still don’t get better, check if the electrical outlet is functioning properly.
We all know that even the idea of installing a spa cover lifter yourself sounds like a scary one. However, all of this is a myth as the installation process is much easier than you think. The installation process is not too long, it takes about an hour at most and does not require any power tools.
Before we discuss the process of installing a cover lifter, here is a brief introduction summing up the need for a spa cover lifter.
How to Install a Spa Cover Lifter
Why Do You Need a Spa Cover Lifter?
You might think that you can move the cover of a brand new hot tub by hand. One look at the size and shape of the hot tub cover is enough to make you rethink the need for a hot tub cover.
The enormous size and shape of the hot tub cover make removing and stowing the cover a challenge for most people. Additionally, you are also at risk of facing serious back injuries if you lift the heavy object without any support.
Given the challenge ahead, it makes complete sense to opt for a spa cover lifter. Even the simplest of the models allow the user to cover the spa with little effort.
The frequent use of a spa cover means that, after a time, the cover will absorb water vapor from the spa. After absorbing the vapor from the barrier, the weight of the cover will start to move upwards, as the evaporation process continues. It is not until the cover becomes waterlogged that you should consider replacing it. Till the cover becomes completely waterlogged, a little mechanical help will make your life considerably more comfortable.
The use of a spa cover lifter means that you have the help of an extra pair of hands for opening and closing the spa. With the help of a spa cover lifter, you can use the spa to carry out quick water checks without hassle. The use of a lifter also eases the cleaning process because you don't stand the chance of hurting yourself in the process.
The life and performance of the hot tub are influenced by the maintenance routine you follow. The maintenance routine becomes more comfortable if you install the spa lifter following the procedures mentioned below.
Step-By-Step Installation Process
The first part of the procedure is to figure out whether the lifter comes with a mounting system or bracket. Follow the instructions mentioned in the instruction manual regarding the nature of the lifter. Given the nature of the product, you may be required to drill holes to screw the lifter in. Use a drill bit that is narrow for the purpose and ensure that you don't drill holes too far as it can damage the tub.
Once you are done drilling the holes, you will not face many problems in attaching the mounting bracket. You can use a drillor screwdriver to assist you during the process.
The package that comes with the cover lifter includes support arms that are responsible for connecting the two pivoting arms. You can then attach the pivoting arms with the brackets that are placed on the free pivots. Hydraulics are also available with some packages, especially if you order a powerlifter.
The next step is to ensure that the cover lifter is attached to the cover of your spa. Before you go about carrying out this step, it is imperative to discuss the issue with the manufacturer. Different lifters specified for various models have contrasting ways of finishing the act.
Most cover lifters also come with handgrips. You can slide the handgrips to whichever position suits you. You should look for convenience in this matter as the hand grips need to function effectively for you and work in a manner that is best for you. Additionally, if the package comes with any other components, be careful when attaching them. In the case of electrical components, avoid contact with water.
If, for one reason or the other, the spa cover lifter is not working, go through the directions, and rectify the mistake.
Required Materials
Here is a list of materials that you should possess if you are willing to install the cover by yourself. If you are looking to install a hot tub cover lifter, we advise you to purchase an entire cover lift package.
These are some of the essential elements that are required to aid the smooth operation.
Precautions
Before you set out installing the spa cover lifter, take note of the following precautionary methods.
Use all the appropriate tools
Before following the instruction manual, ensure that it offers the right advice
Don’t forget to wear protective gear
Be cautious throughout the process to prevent damage.
The installation of a hot tub cover lifter will ease the process of removing the cover. The installation will simplify the process by making it faster and easier. Keeping the lifter clean does not require much work.
The process of installing a spa lifter is not as challenging as it sounds. Once you start the process of installation, you’ll realize that it’s not as tough as it seems!
The dream of having a kitchen does not end with its design and usability; you must also consider the air quality.
Something that will help us have better air circulation around the kitchen, especially during meal preparation and cooking, is a range hood.
If you decide to buy one and struggle to understand how to install a range hood, whether you're doing a DIY or hiring a pro, we have a full installation guide in this article.
Let's get started!
Range Hood Installation: Step-By-Step Instructions
Before knowing how to install a range hood (photo above), it is essential to understand what this kitchen appliance is and what it offers.
A range hood is an appliance designed to suck, filter, and vent gasses through its exit point.
These hoods can filter the air, odor, smoke, steam, and excess heat produced within your cooking area, whether you're preparing Gordon Ramsey's Beef Wellington or simple scrambled eggs.
Now that you know what it is, it's time to learn what you'll need and the specific steps to install a range hood through the following section.
What You'll Need
To efficiently install a range hood, the first thing you need to do is prepare the specific materials and tools, like the following:
Caulk gun, Chisel (optional), Drill
Drill bits, Ducting, Hammer (optional)
Hole saw, HVAC foil/aluminum tape
Oscillating tool, Pencil, Range hood
Screw, Screwdriver, Tape measure
Wall cap, Wire stripper, Wire nuts
After gathering the aforementioned materials, you must follow this step-by-step guide:
Step 1: Take Down the Old Range Hood if There Is One
The first step involves removing the old range hood and its embedded components if your goal is to upgrade it
However, if you do not have an existing range hood or you will be installing it in other parts of your kitchen, then you can skip this step and proceed with the second one.
Step 2: For Safety, Shut off the Electricity
Before drilling and doing other steps to install a range hood on the wall, you must first switch off the electrical power from the breaker box.
Turning the electricity off will keep you or an expert from the dangers of electrocution, especially when dealing with old or faulty electrical wiring.
Step 3: Hire Electricians for the Electrical Wiring Setup if There is None
The next step you need to do is to settle the electrical lines that will run the range hood by letting an electrician set it up.
However, if you have existing wirings from your old vented range hood and there are no existing problems, pull the electrical cable, separate, and remove the protective paper to prepare it for connection in the later steps. Then, you can proceed to the next step.
Step 4: Measure and Mark the Vent Holes
After performing the first two steps, you must measure and mark the wall area where you will need to drill locator holes and set up the hoods.
Remember that this is only applicable for a ducted range hood (which is what most range hoods are) and not for the ductless range hood.
Nevertheless, you can do this by placing the round or rectangular duct at the chosen wall where you plan on mounting it and marking its diameter or area based on size.
Step 5: Drill or Cut Space for the Vent
When you have gotten the exact measurements of the range hood and the vent hole, it is time to drill or cut through the wall to make space for the vent.
In this process, you will need appropriate tools, such as the drill and drill bits. After preparation, follow these steps:
For circular vents, use a hole saw to drill a hole for the ductwork inside
For rectangles and other shapes, drill a hole through the wall using drill and drill bits
You can also use the oscillating saw or a cold chisel and hammer to perfect the hole
Check the wall entry points of the duct (flow)
If there are obstructions, relocate the holes in the wall
If there are none, proceed with drilling through the exterior wall
However, if you have ductless range hoods, it will not be necessary as they use a unique charcoal filter system to circulate clean air back into the kitchen.
Tip
If the obstruction includes pipes, plumbing, and wires, you can ask the help of professionals to relocate pipes accordingly.
Step 6: Install the Ductwork
The sixth step you must do is the process of installing ductwork. The duct is the pathway through which the air suctioned by range hood fans passes until it reaches the exit point.
In doing this, you must first put a mounting bracket (architecture) at the exterior hole using adhesive and mounting screws. After that, proceed with these steps:
Connect the metal wall cap or duct cap with the end length of the ductwork (duct extension) using aluminum tape and screws.
Then, install the connected ductwork into mounting brackets.
Using mounting screws, secure the ductwork into the mounting brackets.
Now that you are done with the exterior wall, proceed by finishing the route (ductwork) on the interior by connecting the remaining duct length.
This is done by inserting it in the interior wall's hole using aluminum tape.
Step 7: Run the Electrical Wiring
After you install ductwork, it is time to connect and run the electrical wiring for your hood.
Using wire nuts, connect the electrical wires in the electrical box; this means black to black wire, white wire to white fixture lead, and green grounding wire to green lead.
Once all the wires are connected and in their proper places in the electrical box, cover the ductwork and electrical wire with the duct cover.
Remember
A duct cover or an electrical cover is essential to protect the internal electrical work, duct connector, and other materials from damage.
Step 8: Mount the Range Hood
When the ductwork has been settled, it is time to mount the range hood into your wall. In doing this, the following actions must be performed:
Drill the mounting brackets into the wall, where the range hood will be attached based on the manufacturer's instructions, and fix them with mounting screws
Secure the hood on the wall with screws driven at its intended spots on the top
Cover the rest of the ductwork installed (seams) with a duct tape
Step 9: Turn on the Power and Test the Range Hood
When you have finished the first up to the eighth steps, you can proceed with the last (and most crucial step): turn on the electric power and range hood.
To check if the new appliance is working, here are the things you must watch intently:
If the hood runs when turned on (e.g., after plugging through an outlet nearby)
If the lights are working properly
If the vented range hoods suction air
If the air passes swiftly out through the exterior wall exit point
Remember
Aside from the light of the kitchen hood, you can also elevate the lighting of your space using the best under-cabinet lighting listed in the article.
In installing a range hood, there are essential factors that you need to consider and things you must prioritize. Well, don't worry because we have your back!
Based on our firsthand experience and knowledge of appliances, here are some of our tips that will surely make your installation smooth sailing:
Always check your local building codes before installing a new hood.
Always remove the old hood when it is not needed or when it is where you will place the new hood.
Choose and find range hoods based on functionality and aesthetics (i.e., your cooking needs and kitchen design). You can check out the best range hoods on the market through this article.
Don't forget to buy a range hood similar to the size of the space you will place it in.
Prioritize safety when installing a range hood.
Check your vent holes.
Range Hood Use and Maintenance Tips
After installing your kitchen hood, the best way to keep it nice and running is to use it cautiously and take good care of your range hoods.
To preserve the pristine condition of your wall-mounted range hoods, as experts in the field, here are our use and maintenance tips for you:
Regularly clean the vent hood where the air passes through to prevent grease buildup, which can be a fire hazard.
Regularly clean the exposed parts of the hood.
Regularly clean the fan blades and air filters to prevent the accumulation of dirt and debris that can damage the range hood.
You must remember that in conducting the maintenance tips mentioned above, you must have the wall-mounted range hood shut off to prevent electrocution.
Also, you can use a degreasing solution, cleaning spray, soap, and hot water for the filters and other parts.
Nonetheless, when using the new range hood, always follow the instructions and safety protocols laid out by the manufacturers in the guide given along with the appliance.
Tip
If you want to delve more and find the answer to the question 'Do I need a range hood?', check out this article!
Install a Range Hood DIY Vs Hiring a Pro: Which is Better?
Nowadays, a do-it-yourself (DIY) remedy has been at the heart of most appliance installations because of the recent pandemic and the availability of online tutorials.
Yet, it is still undeniable that pros in the appliances field are there for a reason. So, which is truly better, a DIY job or hiring a pro?
On the one hand, you can do DIY for a range hood, especially when you know how to measure and drill holes and accurately follow the steps in this article. However, lifting heavy hoods would still require someone to help you out.
Nevertheless, a DIY can help you save some money, as hiring a pro can cost between $100 and $600, depending on the specifications of your appliance.
On the other hand, hiring a professional Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) contractor will assure you of the following:
Faster installation
Preventing electrical wiring mishaps
At the end of the day, it will still be up to you whether you do the installation yourself or ask for the help of professionals.
Range Hood Installation FAQs
Learning how to install range hoods undoubtedly sparked some questions in your mind. Do not worry because we are here to answer some of your FAQs through this section.
Do Range Hoods Have to Be Vented Outside?
No, hoods do not have to be vented outside (wall, ceiling, or roof) all the time because there are ductless range hoods.
How High Should a Range Hood Be?
A range hood must be 20 inches to 30 inches above the heat source. Specifically, if you have an electric cooktop, ensure the range hood installation is 20 inches to 24 inches above.
On the other hand, if you use a gas stove as a cooking surface, ensure you install the range hood at least 24 inches to 30 inches above.
Remember
You can always refer to the article on how to buy a gas range for specific measures, tips, and reminders.
How far should cabinets be from the range hood?
The hood mounted on the wall should have a 1/2-inch space from the existing cabinetry.
A range hood in your kitchen (or wall) is an essential appliance that provides proper ventilation, particularly within your kitchen area, whether it be a ducted range hood or a ductless model.
The key to properly installing a range hood on your wall is to follow the steps above with caution and accuracy (double-check).
Now that you have all the necessary steps, use, and maintenance tips, you can indeed install your range hood yourself or have the installation done by professionals!
How do you feel when your epoxy resin remains sticky even after the curing time is over? For sure, not good.
But there’s nothing to worry about, as this problem is more common than you think. People who work with resin often face issues that delay their projects. This happens because of some anomalies in the chemical reaction between the resin and the hardener.
You need to understand that not all problems related to resins are the same. And because of that, they require different solutions. So, in this guide, we will take you through the most common problems that resin users face and tell you how to overcome them. After reading this, we can assure you that you will be better equipped to handle this material.
Without any further delay, let’s dive right in!
How To Harden Sticky Resin
Dealing With Runny Resin
When working with resin, you might be in a situation where the resin looks uncured even after you give it the required curing time. In fact, it might remain a little gooey even after drying for an entire day. And there can be multiple reasons behind this.
For example, if you end up mixing more colorant than required while preparing the resin, then chances are that it will have a hard time solidifying. To give you an estimate, it is best to mix around 5-6 % colorant of the total amount of the hardener and resin.
Moreover, we have come across people making the mistake of adding two hardeners to resin. But it’s always better to add one, as otherwise, the outcome might remain gooey.
And the most common mistake that people commit is that they do not keep the proportion of the hardener and the resin right. That’s why we’d strongly recommend reading the mixing instructions thoroughly beforehand. In case you face any difficulty in understanding, you can contact the seller to resolve any queries.
How To Fix It?
If you are trying to fix runny resin, the most important thing to do is to scrape it off the surface. This is an essential step, and unless you do it correctly, then chances are that it will start leaking the moment you apply a fresh coat.
After you are done taking it off, apply a fresh coat. But make sure that you keep the proportions correct and apply them following all the instructions. Unless you do that, the resin layer will turn out runny again, and you would have to redo the entire process.
Problem Of Soft Spots
Once the resin is cured, you might be surprised to find a few stubborn spots that refuse to get dried. This leaves a few patches that remain wet for a long time. There is no pattern to soft spots, and they can appear anywhere.
It mainly happens when you fail to mix the hardener with the resin thoroughly. Or, you may even face this problem if the hardener gets stuck to the sides. So, we would recommend that you scrape the sides well when you are mixing and pouring. Without proper mixing, soft spots are highly likely to appear once the resin starts to dry.
How To Fix It?
In order to fix this issue, you would need to get hold of an 80-grit sanding paper. With this, you can sand it and clean off the dust from the surface. While sanding it, if you find specific parts to be gooey, do your best to remove them.
And only when you are sure that there is no more runny resin left on the surface can you start pouring a fresh batch.
Difficulty In Hardening Sticky Resin
Sometimes you will find the resin to remain a little sticky even after mixing a hardener in it. In situations like this, the resin hardens but still remains a little sticky. What do you do in such a situation?
This may happen because of multiple reasons. Many people are impatient and do not mix the resin well before they start with the work. We would recommend that you mix at least for a good 3-5 minutes.
This way, the resin and the hardener will mix adequately, and there will be no lumps in the mixture. And while you are at it, scrape the sides and the corners too to ensure that there are no lumps.
Other than that, you need to stay very cautious about the resin to hardener ratio. Read the instructions very carefully or watch some tutorial videos on the internet for help. Unless you keep the ratio right, the chances are that the resin will remain a little sticky.
We have also seen that resin tends to be a bit gooey and sticky when the ambient temperature of your workshop is not correct. If it is too high or too low, the resin will not be able to harden properly. For the first day of curing, ensure that the temperature is between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
How To Fix It?
Unlike all the problems that we have discussed so far, this one is relatively easy to fix. In case you see that the resin is still sticky even after the curing time, you need to make a fresh batch and then pour it over the existing surface.
After doing this, give it the proper time to cure. If you have already identified a problem with the previous batch, make sure that you do not repeat the same mistake. Sometimes the temperature is an issue. If the ambient temperature was too low the previous time, ensure that you move it to a warmer place.
Apart from pouring a fresh layer, you can also try wet sanding the first layer. We would suggest that you continue to sand until you reach a solid surface. Once you are done sanding, you can pour a new layer.
And this time, do not forget to use a resin or acrylic-based sealer to make sure that the surface layer is effectively sealed.
Tricks To Harden Sticky Resin Easily
If you are new to working with resin, the chances are that you are not too familiar with the medium. When that’s the case, you will likely face a lot of problems. In this section, we will throw light on some of the things that you can do to avoid these problems.
Get Acquainted With The Instructions
Whether you are new to working with resin or not, always make sure that you do not miss out on the instructions. Resins of different brands work differently, and you must keep yourself well-versed with their functioning.
Moreover, in case you plan on working on a big project, we would recommend that you do a test round first. This will help you get acquainted with the resin better and reduce your chances of committing mistakes.
Learn How To Handle Sticky Resin
Handling sticky resin is not an easy thing to do, and to make your job easy, you can consider using Modge Podge. All you have to do is cover the sticky parts and leave them to dry. Other than that, you can also use triple-thick polyurethane.
Even after a day’s time, if you still find the resin to be a little sticky, just spray the surface with this. Then let it sit for 40 minutes before coating it again with another layer.
Pay Attention To Detail
In order to avoid resin-related problems, it is essential that you understand the material well. We would recommend that you choose to work in warmer areas as cold temperatures tend to delay the curing process.
And when mixing the resin, hardener, and color, make sure that you mix it well and there are no lumps or air bubbles present in the mixture. You need to be more careful if you are mixing colors to the mix and take proper care to mix them in the correct ratio.
Final Words
On that note, we have come to the end of this comprehensive guide.
We hope you have learnt a thing or two about hardening sticky resins and will be able to handle the material better. Before you start working, it is essential that you understand the basics in order to not commit the mistakes that we have discussed.
However, even after being careful, sometimes the resins do not act as they should. They do not cure properly and leave your project in a mess. But once you apply the techniques that we have discussed in this guide, we are sure you will be able to fix the problems in no time.
In case you have any further doubts, feel free to reach out to us in the comments section below. And keep a watch on this space for more compelling reads.
The distinctive aroma and powerful yet subtle flavor of cilantro make it a popular culinary herb.
It’s also one of the easiest plants to cultivate and harvest at home. In fact, growing these herbs indoors can be as successful as growing them in a garden, provided you give the plants extra care.
However, it’s quite natural for first-timers to make mistakes while planting cilantro in a pot. The most common mistake being - transplanting plants from the garden, which is a strict no!
To help you out, we’ve come forth with this guide on how to grow cilantro indoors easily.
Furthermore, we’ve provided a few tips for growing and harvesting cilantro and coriander seeds at home. But before that, we’ll address the popular debate on cilantro vs. coriander.
So, without further ado, let’s begin.
Cilantro Vs. Coriander
Cilantro is commonly used for cooking in Mexico, India, Spain, Africa, Russia, China, and other areas of Asia for many centuries now. Apart from its culinary uses, cilantro seeds are also known for their medicinal properties, especially for aiding in digestion and sleep.
But often, people tend to get confused between cilantro and coriander. Are they both the same?
Throughout North America, the stalks and leaves of the Coriandrum sativum plant are referred to as cilantro, while its dried seeds are known as coriander. However, in different parts of the world, the plant itself is called coriander, and the seeds are known as coriander seeds.
Should You Plant Cilantro Seeds or Plants?
The best way to grow cilantro indoors is by directly sowing the seeds in your garden as they germinate in about 7 to 10 days. You won’t need a headstart as it grows within no time. It’s also important to note that since cilantro develops a taproot, it doesn’t transplant well.
But if you can’t wait to harvest fresh cilantro leaves in late spring, start planting cilantro in peat pots so that they can be directly transplanted into your garden. Just make sure the plants are 3 to 4 inches apart.
Cultivating Cilantro Seeds & Plants
Before you begin cultivating cilantro, make sure you prepare the soil by adding compost and other organic matter to the planting area. Work it into the soil to a depth of at least 18 inches and rake the area to make it smooth.
Once that’s done, sow the cilantro seeds 6 to 8 inches apart in rows spaced about 1 foot apart and water the area. When the plants grow about 2 inches in height, feed them water-soluble fertilizers to enhance their overall growth.
And if you wish to get a steady supply of fresh leaves throughout the summer, sow the cilantro seeds successively every 2 to 3 weeks from the beginning of spring.
Tips To Grow Cilantro Indoors
Growing cilantro indoors is relatively easy, provided you know how to go about its cultivation process. On that note, we’ve come forth with a compiled list of tips and tricks to follow while sowing, cultivating, and growing cilantro or coriander indoors.
Use An Unglazed Terracotta Container
Unglazed terracotta containers allow moisture and air to pass through the plant roots, thereby facilitating their overall growth. Just make sure the container you use comes with plenty of drainage holes for the water to drain out.
Provide Additional Nutrients
It’s important to note that cilantro herbs, when planted indoors, require more nutrition since they come with limited root system ranges without access to sufficient soil nutrients. That’s why when planting cilantro indoors, ensure that the soil you use is a mixture of potting soil and sand to allow the free movement of water.
You may also add additional nutrients by using half concentrations of the fertilizers of liquid fish emulsion or any chemical formulation twice a week during its active growth period.
Water Your Cilantro Thoroughly
When growing cilantro indoors, thorough watering is more important than frequent watering. Always check the soil and only water the plants when the soil is dry to touch.
Furthermore, irrigate the cilantro herbs till the water comes out of the drainage holes of your terracotta container. You may use this technique as a guide to ensure that they’re being watered thoroughly.
Maximize Foliage
Your ultimate aim when growing cilantro indoors should be to maximize foliage. For this, pinch back the young plants up to an inch and snip off the top part of the main stem when you notice the development of flower buds or seed pods. This will redirect their energy back into leaf production, ensuring a fuller and bushier foliage.
Access To Sunlight
In order to grow cilantro indoors, you’ll have to make sure your plants have access to direct sunlight for at least four to five hours a day. However, you may also consider using a growing light to speed-up the overall growth process.
Prevent Plants Diseases
Cilantro is considered an insect repellent because of its strong scent, so it rarely has problems with insects or diseases. However, powdery mildew and leaf spot are the two diseases that may cause issues.
Small yellow spots on cilantro leaves occur due to excessive moisture and poor air circulation. To prevent them from turning into larger brown spots, make sure you grow them in well-drained soil that’s not overwatered. The soil should also be thinned out to ensure proper air circulation.
On the other hand, powdery mildew usually appears as a white powdery coating on the foliage, especially during hot and dry periods. You can prevent this from happening by ensuring adequate moisture to your cilantro plants. Also, make sure you avoid overcrowding.
Harvesting Cilantro Indoors
If you’re growing cilantro herbs at home, you also need to harvest them with utmost care. You may cut them at any time and use the upper and finely chopped leaves in cooking. But avoid using the mature, lower ferny-type leaves for the purpose.
You must also refrain from saving and drying them like other culinary herbs, as this will make the leaves lose their flavor. On the contrary, coriander seeds are easy to harvest on any dry day.
When you notice the seed pods turn brown or crack if pressed, cut the top of the stem. And make sure the pods are harvested before they begin releasing the seeds into your garden.
Once you’ve cut the stems, place the seed pods in a paper bag to prevent this. You may then finish the ripening process in a cool, dark, and ventilated place.
That said, we’d suggest not fertilizing your plants if you’re growing them for seeds as the added nutrients may delay flowering and the overall seed production.
Final Words
When planted indoors in a container with drainage holes, cilantro herbs will grow less abundantly than when planted outdoors in a garden. That’s why added attention and utmost care is crucial to enhance their overall growth.
And with a little bit of time and effort, you can rest assured that you’ll be rewarded with this aromatic and flavorful culinary herb all year round. All you need to do is make sure the plants get the right amount of sun exposure, nutrients, and moisture.
On that note, we have reached the end of our informative guide on growing cilantro indoors. Here’s hoping we were able to provide you with all the relevant information related to the topic.
Starting from kitchenware to vehicles, HDPE is everywhere. And if you are thinking of bonding HDPE surfaces, here’s what you need to know.
HDPE or high-density polyethylene is used for a range of objects, starting from fuel tanks to milk cartons. And sometimes, you may need to join two pieces of HDPE plastic or simply join one with another material such as steel or fiberglass. But if you have worked with this material before, you would know that it is quite challenging.
For a very long time, the only option for bonding HDPE plastic was welding. But with time, technology has advanced quite a lot, and there are superglues and epoxy adhesives that make the job much easier. So, in this guide, we will take you through all that you need to know about HDPE glues.
Listed below are the best HDPE adhesives:
J-B Weld Professional Steel-reinforced Epoxy: J-B Weld epoxy's prominent feature is its resistance against various chemicals, making it superior to Loctite heavy-duty epoxy in terms of durability. It sets slower, which may be inconvenient for quick projects.
Loctite Heavy-duty Five-minute Epoxy: A heavy-duty epoxy that provides robust bonds in less time, setting in just 5 minutes, unlike the J-B Weld which takes 4 to 6 hours. For a more enduring hold akin to J-B Weld, it might need to be used with a fiberglass cloth.
Loctite Instant Mix Five-minute Epoxy: The Loctite instant mix epoxy is best suited for precision jobs, and it excels in ease of application, which is an advantage. Its small volume of 0.47 fl oz poses a disadvantage for larger projects compared to the J-B Weld.
By now, you must have understood that working with HDPE glue can be quite challenging at times. And all the products that you find on the market that promise to glue HDPE are not effective. Some products are better than the rest, and here, we will talk about our favorite few in this section.
1. J-B Weld Professional Steel-reinforced Epoxy Twin Pack - Best for Large Projects
What stands out about this item is the remarkable strength and versatility that it puts on the table. And if you have a large project in hand, this item is more suitable for that purpose. The quantity in the pack is pretty good, and you would be able to handle massive projects with much ease. You can use this for both indoor and outdoor projects.
Like any good epoxy glue, this one can be sanded, drilled, and even filled as per your needs. And you can rest assured that it is completely weather-proof and resistant to other chemicals and acids. So, even if it comes in contact with other items, the bond will not get damaged.
Moreover, just like the manufacturer promises, this glue will deliver a bond that is equivalent to that of steel. We have tested this product and can vouch for this. But we also have to say that it takes longer than other brands to get cured. So, if you have an urgency to finish your project, this might be a bit problematic.
Quantity: 2 Tubes | Volume: 5 fl oz Each | Set Time: 4 to 6 Hours | Cure Time: 15 to 24 Hours | Dry Color: Dark Gray | Resistance: Waterproof, Withstands Up to 550°F, Resists Petroleum, Chemical, Acid
2. Loctite Heavy-duty Five-minute Epoxy - Best for Quick Bonding
If you are looking for a robust bond in a short time span, it is best that you give this adhesive a try. This item is well-suited for heavy-duty projects. But the best part is that it comes at a very reasonable price.
So, even if you take up massive projects like stonework, fencing, or laminating, this glue will come to your rescue. You can understand that it not only helps to glue HDPE plastic but is also excellent for other materials such as wood, tiles, fiberglass, and ceramics. And the best part about this is that it can easily handle shrinkage and drilling like a pro.
However, if you are looking for a more durable hold, consider combining it with fiberglass cloth.
3. Loctite Instant Mix Five-minute Epoxy - Best for Precision Tasks
Just like the name suggests, this glue will help you get your work done in under 5 minutes. And you will not have a hard time using this item, as the application process is super simple. You do not have to do anything manually. Even for mixing the resin and the hardener, you will find a mixing nozzle included in the package. You do not have to get your hands dirty in the process.
But you need to keep in mind that it is best suited for smaller projects as the amount of glue included in the package is not much. So, it is best that you put it to use on smaller projects that demand a high amount of precision.
Because of the narrow nozzle tip, the application becomes quite simple, and it gets easy to reach difficult areas. And once the glue dries up, you can sand it or paint it as per your requirements. You don’t have to worry about it shrinking!
If you want to identify the best HDPE adhesive, listed below is a table specifying quantity per package in units, volume measured in fluid ounces, set time in hours and minutes, cure time in hours, dry color, and resistance features.
High-density polyethylene (HDPE) is a popular material known for its durability, strength, and resistance to most common chemicals. However, these qualities can make it challenging to bond with other types of materials using conventional adhesives. In this comprehensive buying guide, we will cover important factors to consider when purchasing the best adhesives for HDPE, ensuring you find the best product for your needs.
Type of Adhesive
There are various types of adhesives that work well with HDPE. Some of the most common include:
Cyanoacrylates (CAs): Also known as super glue, CA adhesives offer a strong and quick bond. They work best for small-scale applications and can be difficult to remove.
Epoxy Resins: Epoxy adhesives provide a strong bond and are known for their durability, resistance to chemicals, and ability to withstand moisture. They often require heat and/or pressure to cure.
Polyurethane Adhesives: These adhesives are flexible and resistant to chemicals, moisture, and impact. They can be used for both porous and non-porous surfaces; however, they may require a longer curing time.
Plastic Welding Adhesives: Plastic welding adhesives use solvents and heat to chemically bond the two surfaces together. They offer a strong bond but may require specialized equipment to apply.
Application Method
Consider the application method of the adhesive, which can vary based on the size and complexity of the project:
Brush-On Adhesives: Useful for spreading the adhesive evenly on large surface areas.
Spray Adhesives: Provide coverage for large areas quickly and can be used for both temporary and permanent bonds.
Gel Adhesives: Ideal for vertical applications or uneven surfaces due to their non-drip consistency.
Dual-Cartridge Dispensing Systems: Allow for precise, controlled application of adhesives with mixing nozzles, and are often used for industrial purposes.
Curing Time & Temperature
Consider the curing time and the required temperature for the HDPE adhesive you choose, since these factors can determine the strength and longevity of the bond:
Fast-Curing Adhesives: Ideal for projects requiring quick results (bonding in seconds or minutes). However, they may be less durable than slower-curing options.
Slow-Curing Adhesives: Generally provide a stronger bond but will require more time for the adhesive to set and fully cure.
Temperature Requirements: Some adhesives have specific temperature requirements to ensure a strong bond. Choose one suited to your working environment.
Bond Strength & Durability
Pay attention to the bond strength and durability of the adhesive:
Tensile Strength: Measured in psi (pounds per square inch), this indicates how well the adhesive can resist a force applied in the same plane as the bond.
Shear Strength: Also measured in psi, it refers to the adhesive's ability to resist a force applied perpendicularly to the bond.
Higher values indicate a stronger bond. Choose an adhesive with adequate strength for your specific application.
Chemical Resistance
HDPE is known for its chemical resistance, so it's important to choose an adhesive with similar resistance properties. Make sure to select an adhesive that will withstand the chemicals and environmental conditions your bonded HDPE will be exposed.
Price & Quantity
Consider the price and the quantity of adhesive needed for your project. Higher quality adhesives may cost more, but they can provide better overall performance and durability. Balance the need for quality with budget constraints.
Important Tip
Surface preparation is critical when bonding HDPE materials. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to prepare the surfaces, which may include roughening, cleaning, or using a primer. Proper surface preparation can significantly improve the success of bonding HDPE materials.
In conclusion, to find the best HDPE adhesive for your needs, consider factors such as adhesive type, application method, curing time and temperature, bond strength, chemical resistance, and price. Most importantly, properly prepare the HDPE surface for optimal adhesion. Finding the right adhesive will ensure your project is successful and long-lasting.
Bonding HDPE 101
HDPE is one of the trickiest plastics to glue. If you are wondering why that is the case, then let us break it down for you.
This material has high abrasion resistance, and as a result, it has minimum surface energy and a very robust surface. Because of this feature, most standard and even superglues cannot work their charms on HDPE. And in case the glues are not effective, you can always screw the HDPE pieces together with nails.
But remember that when you do this, they will get a more industrial effect that may not always be visually appealing. Likewise, welding may leave the joined surfaces with an uneven look, especially if not done the right way.
Although you will find many adhesives on the market that claim to glue HDPE, you should not get easily fooled and maintain proper caution to choose the right product that can really do the job..
How to Glue HDPE
Irrespective of the type of glue that you are planning to use, remember that it is mandatory to prepare the HDPE surface first. So, it does not matter if you are applying super glue or epoxy; the surface needs to be clean for the glue to work.
The easiest method to get the surfaces prepped is by sanding them. But keep in mind that the process is likely to generate a lot of dust. So, we will recommend vacuuming the surfaces thoroughly post-sanding to ensure there’s no dust on them. If you fail to clean them properly, then the adhesive may lose its strength when applied.
Moreover, you should always follow the instructions provided by the brand for the best results. All products come with a set of instructions, and in case they don’t just call their customer support team and ask for help. In case you choose to work with superglue, you might also need to get a good primer to use with it.
You would be required to apply a coat of this primer and give it some time to dry up and cure. Only when that happens should you proceed with the next step of applying the glue? The manufacturer of the glue and primer will definitely mention the time needed for them to dry out completely, so don’t miss out on reading them.
On the other hand, if you opt for epoxy adhesives, you will require an additional hardener to mix with the resin. You either have to do the mixing manually, or the product will come as a pre-prepared mixture.
Take the Necessary Precautions
Without proper preparation, not only will using HDPE glue become too expensive, but it can also be hazardous. So, in this section, we will take a look at some of the things that you can do to ensure that you do not have to face either of the problems.
In order to ensure a mess-free application, you can take special care to prevent any glue from oozing. And for this, you need to be careful about applying only the recommended amount and nothing more than that. The idea that more is better does not work here.
Other than that, we will always recommend working with the surface and glue in an area with good ventilation and ample amount of sunlight. Some of the adhesives that you might use are pungent and even have hazardous chemicals in them. So, you can even consider working outdoors.
Moreover, it is best that you arrange all that you need before starting with the project. Some of the glues may dry very quickly and won’t give you much time to fix things. So, it is best that the work does not get interrupted when you begin.
Apart from that, we recommend that you opt for clear adhesives that won’t leave any seams on the HDPE. Even if the glue oozes out a little, it won’t cause too much trouble. And when you are using the glue, stay very careful and do not let it come in contact with any part of your hands or clothes. In case that happens, you will have to face a hard time trying to get it off.
Get to the Grind
So, how do you get the actual job done? Let’s take a look.
Sanding
In case you are planning to glue two pieces of HDPE together, you would need to sand both surfaces and not just one. For this, it is best to take 120-grit sandpaper and use that to make the smooth surface of the HDPE rough. And as we have mentioned before, use a vacuum cleaner to drive off the resultant dust.
After that, all you need to do is follow the user manual closely. If you are using an epoxy adhesive, make sure that you mix a quality hardening agent to help form a good bond. You might have to do it manually, or you can use an ejection gun for the process.
Once you are done with that, apply a thick coating of this HDPE surface mixture. Let it dry for a few minutes, then attach this glued surface to the one you want to combine with the HDPE.
Make sure that you keep these two pieces clamped together until the adhesive gets cured. It might take you a day or two to get done with this step. If you read the user instructions carefully, you will have a fair idea about how long it can take.
Melting
After you are done with the sanding process, you will need to get hold of a propane torch. Adjust the flame to make sure it is blue and lightly melt the HDPE surface. Make sure that the flame is not blue or red, as that will damage the surface completely.
Do this for around 2 to 5 seconds. In case you are working with a piece that is round in shape, it is best that you keep turning it around to ensure that all areas get heated evenly.
Once you are done doing that, test if it is done properly by putting a water droplet on the surface. If it spreads out, rest assured that it has been breached properly. And in case you see that there are beads of water in certain parts, you would have to redo the process.
When you are sure that the surface is well prepared, go ahead and apply the epoxy according to the user manual. We would suggest that you apply a generous coat to ensure that the surfaces stick well.
Keep the surfaces glued together until they get completely cured.
What types of glues work best on HDPE?
The types of glues that work best on HDPE are two-part epoxies or specialized polyurethane glue. Other alternatives include hot melt adhesives or certain types of superglues designed for use with plastics. It's always essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions for the best results.
Is it possible to glue HDPE together?
Yes, it is possible to glue HDPE together, although it can be challenging due to HDPE's low surface energy and resistance to adhesion. It typically involves a specific preparation process that could include flame or plasma treatment of the surfaces. Specialized adhesives like two-part epoxy or certain polyurethane adhesives are used following the manufacturer's guidelines.
How to glue HDPE panels?
To glue HDPE panels, there's a two-step process that is typically employed. First, the HDPE surface is treated with a flame or plasma treatment to improve adhesion. Then, a specialized adhesive such as a two-part epoxy, hot melt adhesive, or polyurethane adhesive capable of bonding HDPE is applied as per the manufacturer's instructions.
With that, we have reached the end of this informative guide.
We hope that you have been able to learn a thing or two about how to glue HDPE properly. Also, we hope that our recommendation of effective adhesives comes to your aid.
Although you started out with this guide with the thought that HDPE is difficult to handle, by now, you must have understood that this is not the case. With the right products, you can handle them easily.
But for that to happen, you need to understand the material and adhesive well. Unless you do that, you are most likely to fail. In case you have any more questions, feel free to write to us in the comments section below. And keep a watch on this space for more exciting reads.
Until next time, goodbye!
Radiator leaks are messy and dangerous, so it's not surprising that people rush to the mechanic as soon as they spot a green puddle.
Whether your car is high mileage or not, the radiator wears out and breaks with time. Repairing a broken radiator can be an expensive affair if you consult a professional. But fixing a radiator leak at home is possible if you know the correct method.
There are many ways to fix a radiator leak, and we've selected a temporary quick fix for you. In this guide, we're going to show you how to fix a car radiator leak using epoxy.
Fixing A Broken Radiator With Epoxy
If the radiator leak is severe, you have no choice but to make a trip to the mechanic to get it professionally repaired. But say you spotted a minor leak or a small puddle, taking quick action on your own can work just fine, too. Although it might not be a permanent fix, it's better than nothing for the time being.
Don't ignore the leak and continue to drive your vehicle because the car is prone to overheating since it lost coolant from the leakage. In the long run, driving with a broken radiator damages the engine and could be dangerous.
But a simple fix with epoxy can prevent further damage. This DIY method will help you save the cost of the radiator parts and the mechanic fee as well. At the very least, there won't be any leaks when you are ready to get the radiator professionally fixed.
How To Fix Radiator Leak With Epoxy
In this guide, you will learn how to find the source of the problem- the crack in the radiator. Along with that, you'll see the correct way to clean the radiator before sealing it with epoxy.
Identify The Problem
When you notice leaks and puddles forming beneath the car, it's best to check the issue as soon as you can. Firstly, check if the puddle is made up of water or coolants. This can be identified by the color. In the case of a clear puddle, it is water, and if the puddle looks suspiciously green or any other color, it could be a coolant leak. Remember that coolant leaks indicate damage or cracks in the radiator.
Cool The Engine
Now that you have figured out that the leak is indeed a coolant from a broken radiator, turn off the car engine. This is to make sure the engine cools down before you can inspect the parts. It also helps to reduce the pressure off the radiator and engine and is a general safety practice we recommend.
After the engine has cooled down, try to remove the radiator from the car. Modern vehicles have a different system that does not make the radiator accessible, and it takes an experienced hand to remove it.
But if your car is an older model, the radiator should be easy to remove without professional help. If the radiator does not come out, take other parts out of the way so you can get to the radiator.
Drain The Radiator
Once the radiator is in clear view, look around to find the cracked or broken area. Next, you'll have to remove the rest of the coolant if you want to apply epoxy. So, drain the radiator either completely or up till the part where the crack is visible.
After this, clean all sides of the radiator to remove the chemicals. A brake cleaner should be sufficient to do this job. Take your time while doing this step because the epoxy will not bond correctly unless the surface is completely clean. An additional step would be sanding the surface, although it is not mandatory.
But sanding the surrounding surface will allow the epoxy to form stronger bonds that will last for a slightly longer time. Also, before you apply the epoxy, allow the surface to dry completely. This is because moisture or dampness can interfere in the epoxy bonding process.
Seal The Radiator With Epoxy
Now you get to choose which epoxy you'd like to use for fixing the radiator leak. We've listed out a few of our favorites later in the article, so be sure to check that out. Upon opening the packaging, you'll see that the epoxy comes in strips, and you can break off as much is required for the repair.
Take a piece of the epoxy, press and rub with your hands till the warmth from your fingers makes it soft and pliable. The more you work with it, the warmer it gets, and you get a flexible piece of epoxy for repair.
Now, spread the epoxy all over the crack or broken area of the radiator. It's essential to cover the entire area so that it seals nicely, and the excess can always be removed before it dries up. It's alright if this process takes some time, but don't skimp on it.
The layering needs to be correct for the epoxy to be able to handle the pressure of the radiator. After the epoxy is applied correctly, allow it to dry and cure completely. It takes around an hour to dry, but the curing process takes 24 hours.
Check If It Works
The next day, check the radiator and the epoxy. The epoxy patch should be fully cured and solid by now, but you can also check it once to see if it is secure. Next, replace the radiator and the other parts back in the car and see if there is enough antifreeze. Start the car engine and take a look at the now repaired radiator.
Let the engine run for a while so that the pressure builds up in the radiator. Then take a look at the epoxy repair if it is still firmly in place. The patch should be able to withstand the pressure without any leaks. Finally, clean up any messes caused by antifreeze, if any, and the car is ready to use.
How To Fix A Plastic Radiator
The method which we stated earlier was applicable for the standard metal radiator, which most cars have. But what do you do when your radiator is made of plastic? In that case, repairing it takes a totally different method which we will elaborate on in this section.
Even though the process is different, fixing a plastic radiator at home is possible if you know basic welding. Besides, you are better off repairing it at home because professionals usually do not fix plastic radiators. They will probably suggest you throw the broken one out and get a brand new one that can dig deep in your pockets.
We'd suggest you try to fix the plastic radiator on your own and if there is an issue after a few weeks, get it replaced. One thing you should know before fixing the plastic radiator is that it can handle high temperatures of 94 degrees Fahrenheit and above.
So don't worry about exposing the radiator to heat, thinking it might melt. Secondly, after you finish the repair, the radiator should be able to hold hot and pressurized coolant without damaging the parts- that's when you know that the job is done well.
Method For Repairing A Plastic Radiator-
Again, cool the engine down so you can work with the radiator, then drain any water or solution till empty or beneath the break line. If the fluids from the radiator are not removed, they might spill while working. Next, clean and prep the area so that it is ready for repair work.
Now, use a heat gun to soften the plastic. As you apply high heat to the cracked edges, you'll notice that they begin to change the texture and look glossy. If the break line is too large, divide your work into 2-inch sections for easy welding. This way, you can finish one section of welding before tackling the next one.
During the welding process, try to create a V-shaped channel throughout the break line. Next, melt a nylon rod into this portion using a plastic welder. Essentially, we want the rod to melt into the hollow area completely.
We want to give you a heads-up about the fumes plastic welding creates. It can get a bit suffocating if you're not wearing the correct protective gear or there isn't enough ventilation. So, be sure to prepare these beforehand.
After the nylon rod melts into the gap in the plastic, remove the extra bits on the edges. Next, use the tip of the welder to join the nylon with the plastic radiator. You'll know it has been blended when they begin to blend into each other.
Once this is done, leave the radiator to cool for a few hours. Alternatively, if you prefer to work with epoxy instead of welding, plastic-specific products are available on the market. The method to fix the plastic radiator with epoxy will remain the same as mentioned for metal radiators.
Best Epoxy Products For Radiator Leaks
Now that the method for fixing radiator leaks with epoxy is clear, it's time to look at some of the epoxy products available. Some of the epoxy products are specially designed for radiator repair, and many of them work equally well on metal and plastic. Here are a few brands we recommend-
Radiator Weld by J-B Weld is one of the strongest epoxies for repairing leaks in radiators. It comes in a complete kit with all the items you will need for mixing and applying on surfaces. The kit comes with epoxy putty, fiberglass cloth, sandpaper, and an epoxy applicator.
J-B Weld is also one of the oldest brands with over 40 years of reputation backing it up. Their quick seal product is sure to help beginners who are unsure about using epoxies on radiators. The good thing about this product is that there is no need to remove the tank or radiator from its sitting place.
This means the epoxy can be mixed and applied even if it is not removed from the car. Impressively, this epoxy can fix 4-inch long breaks or cracks perfectly. JB-Weld epoxy is durable and resistant to chemicals and heat and can easily handle temperatures upto 250 degrees Fahrenheit.
Moreover, this product is versatile and can bond plenty of other broken items like washer fluid tanks, water tanks, storage tanks, plastic radiators, composites, and PVC.
Next, we have another radiator repair kit which is a pretty good option by the brand Versachem. This product is versatile enough to work on both metal and plastic radiators. We appreciated that it could be applied to the tank or radiator without having to remove it in any way.
If the crack or break in the radiator is visible, you can apply this product directly after cooling the engine. Furthermore, this option can withstand a decent range of temperature- from 40 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit. So, you can rest assured that high temperatures will not damage your repair work.
When we read the back of the packaging, the product description mentions that it repairs gasoline and fuel tank leaks in 20 minutes. Also, there is no draining of coolant required with this product. All in all, this kit makes a good option when it comes to radiator repairs.
Finally, we have a flexible sealant called Optimum Black Gasket Maker by Permatex. This product comes in a tube packaging of 4 ounces and can be squeezed out through a nozzle. Actually, this option comes with two different nozzles so you can adjust the amount of product you need for the project.
What's different about this option is that it has a fluid-like consistency instead of a solid stick putty. So there is no need to warm up the product in your hands. It is ready to apply as soon as the tube is opened.
We like that this sealant is resistant to auto and shop fluids and vibration, making it the perfect choice for fixing a radiator leak. Not only that, but it also retains a lot of its flexibility after drying and is an oil-resistant adhesive. This indicates that it is strong enough to withstand the pressure build-up in the radiator.
Also, it can handle high amounts of heat, with a comfortable working range of -65 to 500 degrees Fahrenheit. Additionally, the product is sensor-safe, has low odor, and is non-corrosive, making it a great choice for fixing a leaking radiator.
Final Words
So, that was our short guide on fixing a radiator leak using epoxy. Most of the aspects which people struggle with have been mentioned in the stepwise guide. Also, we know that not all car radiators are made of metal, so we decided to include a section about plastic radiators as well.
Along with the methods for repairing a radiator leak, this article also mentions a few popular epoxy brands. Although we think all of them are up to the mark, our go-to option is the Radiator repair kit by J-B Weld. We hope this informative guide helps you the next time you need to repair a radiator with epoxy.
When it comes to epoxy, we all make mistakes sometimes, don't we?
Mixing, pouring, and applying epoxy is not something you can experiment with. It is an exact technique using measured components, and anything slightly off can ruin the epoxy mixture. Each step needs care and precision because even a tiny flaw in mixing, ratios, or contamination in the tools can ruin the mix.
Today we decided to figure out all the common mistakes beginners make and compile them in one place. Along with highlighting the errors you need to avoid, we'll also be sharing a few easy methods to tackle them. So, the next time you face any of these issues, you'll be well prepared.
Without further ado, let's get started.
How To Fix Epoxy Mistakes
What Are The Most Common Epoxy Mistakes?
Incorrect Mixing Ratio
Most often, epoxies come in two parts in the kit and need proper mixing just before application. The mixing ratio is vital if you want an epoxy of the correct consistency. This is why companies mention the exact proportion in weight or volume on the packaging, which needs to be followed precisely.
Failing to mix the two components in the correct ratio results in the epoxy hardening too fast or slow, even sometimes not hardening at all.
Over Or Under Mixing The Epoxy
Overmixing the epoxy leaves a thick sludge that barely pours over and would need to be thrown out. And if you undermix the epoxy components, the slurry will leave cracks and melted bits which are far from ideal. The mixture could also become hazy and opaque, so in order to prevent this, make sure you follow the instructions to the T.
Working With The Wrong Product
We understand why so many people struggle with selecting the correct type of epoxy for their project. After all, there are so many types of epoxies available, all of which have entirely different purposes.
There are epoxy adhesives and bonding agents, casting compounds, fillers, molds, and many others. So, it’s better to read about the product before purchasing to avoid ending up with the wrong type of epoxy.
Weather And Temperature Issues
One thing we often ignore is taking the weather and temperature into consideration before beginning an epoxy-based project. Beginners might not know that epoxy is sensitive to extreme temperatures. So if you are in the middle of a frigid winter, chances are the epoxy will have trouble setting correctly.
The same is true for hot temperatures, too- the epoxy will either dry too quickly, forming bubbles or will develop cracks after drying. The best solution is to adhere to the temperature guidelines recommended by the company. You could either wait for a pleasant season or control the room temperature to match the guidelines.
Intentionally Or Unintentionally Adding Moisture
Newbies might make the mistake of adding water to thin out the solution, but let us warn you before you make the same mistake. Make it a point to stay away from moisture when working with epoxy.
If you want to save the epoxy mixture, you need to treat water and epoxy as sworn enemies. It is also possible to have water lying in the container or mixing bucket, and that's something you have to check every time.
Use Of Dirty Tools
As we mentioned earlier, epoxy is pretty sensitive to all external factors, including dirt and dust sitting on your tools. Any of the grime or dust that you mix with the epoxy will show in the final product, and no one wants that! If possible, use fresh mixing buckets, containers, and stirrers. And if you already have these tools, clean them with acetone just before using them.
Mixing Brands
Needless to say, don't mix two different brands of epoxies, assuming they are all the same. All brands and solutions have their unique mixing ratio and composition. So, you will not get an even mixture if you add a different brand to the existing mixture. Not only that, it is not recommended to mix two different solutions from the same brand either.
Improper Storage Of Epoxy
You may already know that epoxies react with molecules in the air and harden to form strong bonds. So it goes without saying that when storing, nothing less than an airtight container will do. Also, epoxies have a shelf life; make a note of the expiry date before storing them.
It's possible to keep them at the back of storage shelves and remove them way after the expiry date. In such cases, you won't be able to use the epoxy anyway. And if you do, the solution won't mix properly because it would be partially hardened.
Solutions To Epoxy Mistakes
Sticky Film On The Surface
Sometimes after hardening, a sticky layer is visible on top of the epoxy. This isn't an irreversible problem and can be fixed quickly. Take some hot water and dip a soft sponge to soak. Wipe the sticky surface with the sponge and hot water, and the sticky layer should visibly reduce.
Working indoors will protect the epoxy from external dust and dirt. It will also help in reducing the sudden changes in temperature and humidity. Also, try to work in a moisture-free zone to prevent the formation of this sticky film.
Epoxy Is Not Leveling Evenly
Almost all epoxies are self-leveling and do not need manual assistance to set in place. But if you face a situation in which the epoxy is not leveling, the resin in the mixture is probably too little.
To fix this after the epoxy has cured, you'll need to sand down the uneven areas and add a second coat. And, if the epoxy is not yet cured, you can directly apply the second coat to the previous one.
Epoxy Cures Too Quickly
If the epoxy is hardening and curing too quickly, that's not a good sign. Drying and curing are very precise, and quick curing means the polymerization of the epoxy is occurring way too fast. This happens when the temperature is too high, which leaves a substandard epoxy with cracks and haze.
To prevent this, keep the temperature constant between 68-77 degrees Fahrenheit (ideally).
Air Bubbles Have Appeared
One of the most common issues people face is the appearance of bubbles in the epoxy. These bubbles appear as a result of air trapped in the resin due to improper mixing. If the epoxy components are mixed too quickly, the air gets incorporated into the resin, forming visible bubbles.
If you notice these bubbles before the curing process is complete, you can get rid of them easily. Move a heat gun quickly over the bubbles in intervals of 10 minutes. Once fully cured, the bubbles are difficult to remove, so try to identify and remove them before it is cured.
Epoxy Does Not Stick Properly
A porous surface will absorb the epoxy easily, so the second layer of epoxy might be required to get correct results. Also, make sure that the wooden surface is dry, smooth, and clean. And ensure the solution is distributed evenly across the surface.
Ripples And Waves On Epoxy
Sometimes ripples and waves might appear while working with epoxy. If this problem arises, you'll need more than one coat of epoxy solution to fix it. Begin the process by applying a thin sealing coat. This layer should be thin enough to avoid and bubble or ripple formation, yet it must coat the surface all around.
The second step is to add the epoxy layer, which is essentially the same substance but in a thicker coat.
Epoxy Has An Orange Peel Effect
Imagine the outer layer of an orange peel. It has marks and dents all across the surface, and the orange peel effect on the epoxy layer looks very similar to that. This is definitely not the result one would expect since the ideal epoxy layer should be free of all marks, dents, ripples, or smudges.
This effect is the result of sudden temperature fluctuations; thus, the only way to prevent this is to work in a closed environment. If you find this effect when the epoxy is still wet, use a roller tool to even the upper surface.
If the epoxy has already been catalyzed and cured, you will need to scrub the imperfections using abrasive paper. To finish with a glossy look, spray a thin layer of epoxy on the surface.
Epoxy Fails To Bond
Sometimes epoxy doesn't set, and you may scratch your head wondering what went wrong. Well, it could be one of several reasons. It could be an issue of incorrect curing, which we will discuss in detail in a separate section of this article.
Another reason could be working on a contaminated surface area. That is why it is essential to clean the work area and tools before mixing and pouring your epoxy solution.
Epoxy Is Opaque
The distinct feature of export coating is a shiny, transparent, and sometimes reflective surface that it leaves behind. A fully cured epoxy coat that looks dull and opaque indicates that something in the process has gone wrong. Most often, this happens due to changes in temperature and the conditions at your workstation. Increased humidity also causes this cloudy and greying effect.
Epoxy Changed Color Due To Storage
Ever managed to safely store epoxy in a safe airtight container for later use, only to open it to find the color has changed? What does the color change mean? A few chemical reactions occur in the epoxy over time which creates a reddish-brown color.
It should be fine to use as long as the solution was sealed in an airtight container and the consistency is fluid enough to pour. The color change will reflect in the final product, so if that doesn't bother you, then it is good enough to use.
Tackling An Epoxy Mixture That Failed To Cure
You might face a situation in which the time required for the epoxy to cure has passed, but the resin hasn't hardened yet. Why did this happen? Here are a few things you can do to avoid this issue-
Epoxy Mixing Ratio
The most common error that causes the epoxy to remain wet is the incorrect mixing ratio. This means that one or the other component was too much or too little. The perfect epoxy needs to have a balanced amount of both resin and hardener to set as per the instruction manual. This is why the drying and curing time goes haywire if one or both are messed up.
The only sure-fire way to fix this is to remove the epoxy layer altogether and begin the process again. We know it sounds tedious, and it is. But there is no going back once the batch is prepared and laid out.
Using Wrong Products
Beginners often make the mistake of using a completely different type of product which doesn't cure even after the recommended time has passed. Care needs to be taken when selecting the products for applying on a table of the countertop. If you are unsure, try asking someone who is familiar with epoxy DIY or check a few products online.
The good thing about checking online is that you get reviews from fellow epoxy DIYers, and you can learn from their mistakes. Another mistake people make is mixing products from two brands together. No matter how similar they may seem, it is never recommended to mix different brands since it almost never ends up well.
If the wrong products have been used, the only thing to do is remove them immediately. Do not wait to hope that the epoxy might cure if you give it a few more hours because it most likely won't. Also, it's no use adding a correct epoxy mixture over an incorrect one. Since the incorrect layer won't be set, you'll have to redo the process from scratch.
Temperature
We've mentioned this before, but temperature plays a huge role in the correct setting of epoxy. If the season is cold or the room is set to a lower temperature, the epoxy takes a much longer time to cure. So, check for the climate. Are you in the middle of freezing winter? We can't argue with nature, but what we can control is the room temperature.
The best solution is to apply additional heat to quicken the curing process. Also, there are curing hardeners available on the market that are specifically designed to speed up the process for lower temperatures. Or you could just allow the surface more time to cure if none of the other methods are possible.
Fixing Glaze Coat Epoxy
There is another issue DIYers complain about - glazed coat epoxy. Glazed coat epoxy is the cloudy, muddy, or opaque appearance of the final product, which can be disheartening to see. The epoxy glaze is incomplete without its transparent and shiny finished look, so many users try their best to avoid it.
The glazed coat look can occur due to a number of reasons, like humidity in the air or the formation of too many air bubbles. Most of the time, when the surface looks opaque and glazed, the curing is also compromised. Since the epoxy does not cure properly, the surface has a tacky finish that does not harden.
Moisture And Humidity
If the epoxy is exposed to some moisture or the workplace has a high humidity level, it directly impacts the curing and finishing. Small molecules of condensation react with the epoxy before it cures and creates a muddy, glazed look which we want to avoid.
In some cases, this cloudy appearance is irreversible, but there is a simple method that works most of the time. Try using a heat gun to melt the glazed surface and allow it to resettle naturally. A few applications of the heat gun should be enough to remove all the moisture from a thin layer.
Air Trapped In The Epoxy
Trapped air is another causal factor for cloudy epoxy. But it can be prevented by applying the epoxy coats in thinner layers. Also, you can use the same heat gun method to remove the trapped air. If there is no rush, wait for a warmer climate to apply the epoxy since thinner layers are easily formed in higher temperatures.
Tacky Epoxy
A glazed epoxy will not harden even if you give it extra time to cure. Sadly, the only thing you can do with tacky or sticky epoxy is to remove it entirely. Adding another layer in the hopes that it will be better won't work. So, remove the epoxy sand and clean the surface, and then start the process once again.
How To Repair An Epoxy Resin Table Or Countertop
Over time, tables and countertops wear out and start peeling. Due to daily use and the action of placing pots, pans, or cutlery, they develop deep scratches. All of these issues can be fixed by adding a durable new layer of epoxy coating. Instead of throwing out that table or countertop, simply follow these easy instructions and get a shiny new surface.
Fixing A Table/Countertop With Epoxy
Begin with removing the peeled-out wooden pieces and the deep scratches from the surface. A fine to medium grit sandpaper or abrasive sheet should do the trick. Work your way into the scratches and the peeled-off surface to create a smooth and even layer.
You can use the wet sanding technique, which includes dipping the sandpaper in water before scrubbing. This method removes the scratches without creating additional marks by rubbing the sandpaper. During the process, make sure you sand parallel to the imperfections since going against them might create deeper scratches.
After this, remember to clean the surface so that there are no dust particles left behind. The next step is essential, so do not skip it out of the process. Prepare a cleaning solution containing half part of the cleaner and half part water. Use this cleansing mixture to clean out any remaining particles that might be stuck to the surface.
After that, wipe the area to remove the last bits of the cleansing solution and leave the surface to dry. Once the tabletop is dry, give it a final polish and add a thin layer of epoxy to the top. This layer acts as a sealant and ends up drying to form a clear glass-like reflective surface.
Drying this layer completely will take no less than 24 hours, and you can check to see if it is still sticky. If it is still sticky, give it a few more hours before applying the next epoxy coat.
Fixing Mistakes On A Wet Surface
Most mistakes are easier to fix when the epoxy is still in the wet stage. If there is a visible ripple, bubble, or any other imperfection, it can be smoothened out with a roller tool.
The same is true of uneven layers- tools can be used to correct the level so that no areas are left too thin or thick. If there is any dust sitting on top, removing it in the wet stage is much easier.
Final Words
Here we conclude our guide about epoxy mistakes and how to deal with them. Some errors like air bubbles on the surface and small ripples can be fixed fairly easily using heat. However, other issues like sticky and tacky epoxy need to be scrapped out and redone.
We made the same mistakes when we started out, so we know the struggle of getting it right! Keep a close watch for any of these mistakes for your next project and try to fix most of them before the epoxy cures.
Which of these mistakes did you face the most? Feel free to share in the comments below.
You can fix your wireless doorbell at home by performing several checks and narrowing down the source of the problem. These may involve battery checks, proper positioning, rebooting the device and the app, and weather damage checks, to name a few.
Wireless doorbellsare more convenient and accessible than wired ones, but like most electronics, they can sometimes malfunction. A wireless doorbell not working can become a nuisance very rapidly as you miss out on visitors standing on your doorstep.
So, to help you solve any issues with your wireless doorbell and keep it safe from future problems, we’ve created a troubleshooting guide for you to follow. The pertinent information is just a scroll away!
How Does A Wireless Doorbell Work?
A wired doorbell is simple enough: the visitor presses the doorbell button that completes an active circuit, creating a ringing sound. On the other hand, wireless doorbells are quite different since the doorbell isn’t physically connected to a speaker for the sounds to be emitted.
Most wireless doorbells work on radio wave frequencies, sending radio signals to a receiver that picks up the signal when the doorbell button is pressed. The receiver could be a dedicated remote control for the doorbell, or it could even be your smartphone. This is then followed by a sound, light or a combination of both to alert you of potential visitors.
The complexities involved in executing this process makes troubleshooting a wireless doorbell more challenging than a wired one. A wireless doorbell involves intricate circuitry, fixing any problem with which is usually left best in the hands of a professional.
That said, you can follow some of our DIY troubleshooting tips to prevent or solve some issues with the doorbell.
Troubleshoot Your Wireless Doorbells
The intricacies involved in a wireless doorbell’s workings mean that several small things could go wrong to stop it from functioning. So, we will now help you to find what’s wrong with your device and how you can fix it. You’ll only need a screwdriver and a few spare batteries.
1. Doorbell Button Not Working
When you press the button on a wireless doorbell for uPVC doors (or any other door, for that matter), it usually emits a sound from the chime unit.
Now, there are a number of issues that could lead to wireless doorbell buttons not working, with the most obvious of them being drained batteries. So, it’s recommended to check the doorbell and the door chime unit batteries before moving on to the other parts.
As for other issues like a damaged button or chime unit, you can spot them when you install a wireless doorbellfor the first time.
Solving The Issue
Use a screwdriver to remove the battery compartment of your devices and replace the batteries in your doorbell and chime units one by one. You can pinpoint which unit has the faulty batteries by checking each battery in a different device.
Once you’ve done so, try turning your units on again and see if they function normally. If they do, good job! If not, let’s move on to the next step.
Tip
Sometimes, the issue may not be with the battery but with the battery connectors. You can use cotton swabs dipped in vinegar to clean the terminals and dry the compartment with a clean cloth afterward. There’s no need to throw away fresh batteries, is there?
Since wireless doorbells work on radio wave frequencies, there’s a chance that the signal emitted by the doorbell unit no longer reaches the receiver. This can occur due to a number of factors, such as the number of walls between the unit and the receiver. In some cases, other electronics may interfere with the signal sent by the doorbell transmitter, resulting in the receiver not detecting it.
Usually, the signal range is quite liberal, with some devices ranging up to 100m, making the receiver placement the actual culprit.
Solving The Issue
Relocate the receiver so that it’s closer to the doorbell transmitter. If possible, try to limit the number of walls between the two units as well. There’s a good chance this fixes the issue, but if it doesn’t, let’s explore more options.
Tip
There’s a greater chance that your doorbell system isn’t functioning properly because of interference caused by other wireless devices. This may also result in your doorbell going off randomly, even when there is no visitor at your door. Try to relocate your receiver to a place where there are few electrical devices in its vicinity.
3. Weather Problems
Environmental factors are often overlooked when purchasing a new wireless doorbell. For example, if you live in a place where it just won’t stop raining, there’s a chance that your doorbell system simply weathered under the weather.
Likewise, too much temperature fluctuation can damage the doorbell, thereby affecting its functioning.
Most doorbells come with a protection rating that will inform you of their resistance to the weather and their capability to resist water. You can check your manual to see if this issue has occurred with your doorbell.
Solving The Issue
There are only a few things that you can try with your doorbells if the weather damage is extensive. Use a screwdriver to open the panel and check how badly the unit has been damaged. In some cases, cleaning the unit alone can solve all your doorbell woes, otherwise you may need to have it looked at by a technician.
In the worst cases, you’ll see extensive rusting in the metallic parts of the unit, or wires that have seen better days in such cases. As a result, you may have to replace the broken doorbell, but it all depends on how bad the damage is.
4. Wireless Doorbell Chime Not Loud Enough
Your doorbell may not be loud enough for you to hear from another room, or even in its vicinity. This issue occurs primarily due to two reasons: the positioning of the speaker and volume control.
If the doorbell is positioned in a way that blocks its chime box, its sound may become muffled, unable to be audible from across the house. This is an easy problem to fix in most cases.
Alternatively, your doorbell volume may not be high enough, which you can check in the bell’s instruction manual.
Solving The Problem
All you need to do if your doorbell chime box is blocked is to reposition it and give the speaker ample room. Some models have the counterintuitive design of having the speaker on the same side as the bell. In such cases, place your doorbell on a flat surface, such as a shelf, from where it can be heard easily.
As for the volume control, follow the instructions listed on the owner’s manual. Some doorbell models come with built-in volume control that you can adjust using the unit itself or with a mobile app.
5. Security Code Swap
If your doorbell was disconnected from the receiver unit, it could lead to the device not functioning at all. This is due to the security codes on both units not matching properly, resulting in the doorbell unit being unable to signal the receiver.
Solving The Problem
This issue can usually be fixed by resetting both the doorbell and the receiver units. The units should sync up once you’ve reset the consoles and input a new security code, and the doorbell should function once again. Refer to the owner’s manual for instructions specific to your doorbell, as this process may vary between different models.
6. Video Doorbell Troubles
Automated doorbell units operate using a stable internet connection and so, the issues you’ll face are likely associated with the WiFi connection or the power. A poor WiFi connection may cause the doorbell to freeze, which is when you should check if the internet services are down in your area.
Solving The Problem
If you own an automated doorbell, try turning it off and then back on again. Sometimes, a fresh reboot is all it takes to get your automated doorbell going again.
In case the issues persist, consider clearing the cache of your doorbell app to see if it resolves the issue. And lastly, reinstall the app if nothing else works.
What To Do If These Tips Don’t Work
The user’s manual is your best friend in the event of your wireless doorbell not working. Sift through every piece of information you can find in the manual pertaining to the problem and see if that solves it. If not, contact the manufacturer for help with your device-specific problem.
How To Fix A Wireless Doorbell Conclusion
Wireless doorbells, much like most wireless devices in modern times, are a boon for our daily lives. And when their convenience is interrupted by an untimely fault, they can usually be fixed without requiring professional help.
However, they are fragile and prone to failure once they have aged sufficiently. Wireless doorbells can also become non-functional when dropped, making handling it with care all the more important.
With regular maintenance and proper care, the devices will continue to serve you for a good while.
On that note, we will now wrap up today's proceedings. Until next time!
Well, who does not like vibrant-colored merchandise? No one that we know of! Today we will discuss how to separate colors for screen printers in the most effective manner.
Color printing is easy but to create the best of effects, you need to know how to separate colors. If you learn the skill, you can make the coolest of merchandise at the most affordable cost. But before you start with the process, there are a number of things that you need to know.
Today, we are discussing the techniques that you can implement to separate colors for screen printers. We are also going to share some very interesting and essential tips that will save you time, money, and potential hazards.
So, without any further ado, let’s begin!
Methods to Separate Colors For Screen Printing
Before we delve into how to separate colors, we will give you a brief idea about the various techniques that screen printers use to separate colors. Understanding the process in-depth would help you execute the separation more effectively.
Let’s take a look at the standard color separation techniques that are used.
Spot Color
This is one of the most common kinds of color separation techniques that are in vogue. It has been quite popular for decades now, especially when vector images are concerned.
The reasons behind its popularity are the ease of the technique and the excellent results that it delivers. Most design software allows you to spot or pick the color. However, with software like CorelDRAW and Adobe Illustrator, you should always ensure that the color is right before you decide on printing.
Keep in mind that this technique of color separation works best on solid tones. But if you are looking to create more shaded colors, you should opt for halftone dots in the process. If you do this, the design will get printed in the exact form as you envision it.
Four-Color Process
This technique has gained popularity in recent years and has also contributed towards the popularity that photoshop enjoys today.
If you are an artist who’s looking to create photorealistic images on a t-shirt, you can use this technique to implement halftone dots in cyan, magenta, yellow, and black. It is one of the most commonly used techniques in re-creating photorealistic images as per the industry standards.
However, it is better to be safe than sorry. So, ensure that you always double-check before it goes for printing. This way, you can make sure that the colors come out perfectly.
If you are careful, you can prevent costly mistakes from happening. After a print is done, if the colors do not come out right, it is rather costly to correct it and send it for re-printing.
Index Color
If you are new to color separation, you need to give this a try because it is the easiest of all the processes. But before you choose to go with this process, remember that the designs that you can make with it are a tad limited.
Why? Because the square pixels it uses are all of the same dimension. It does not use halftone dots that are instrumental in creating shading effects. So, with this method, the colors are a little flat.
You should opt for this process if you are looking to create simple images in high-quality prints. To be honest, it is not very suitable for realistic pictures.
Mostly, it is compatible with Photoshop, but if you want to work on it a bit more before printing, you can always transfer it to CorelDRAW or Illustrator.
Simulated-Process Color
Well, at first, this method might seem quite similar to the four-color process, but on a closer inspection, you will notice that there are significant differences.
The first difference is that this process uses halftone dots instead of solid dots that are more commonly used in the four-color process. However, the major difference becomes visible in the kind of ink colors that are used in this simulated-process color technique. And this selection has a major influence on the design once it is printed.
Once the prints are prepared, you will find that the colors are a lot more vivid as compared to the other techniques.
Also, you can use this to your advantage and make use of this process when printing on materials of darker shades. However, that in no way means that the color vividness is absent when it comes to lighter colors.
Tips To Create The Best Color Separation
Honestly, you can create perfect color separations quite simply if you follow a proper process. If that is done, you can very easily ensure that you create a good quality color separation that is quite accurate. It is true that different screen printers have different modes of working, and you have to find a good balance and understand your preference when choosing one.
In this section, we will take a look at how to smartly separate colors. Let’s check them out.
Quality Of The Artwork
When it comes to color separation, the quality of the artwork that you are using is very crucial. It has to be high-quality because if it is of lower resolution, the final print will not come out as nice.
So, if your clients send images of poor quality, ask for better images before you commence with the work. This will help you save both time and money that you would otherwise have to spend on corrections.
Knowing The Colors
Before you start with the work, it is always advisable that you check what kind of colors will be involved in the process. Make sure that you understand whether you will need to extract flat tones or shaded ones.
Once you are clear on this, color separation becomes a lot simpler. Depending on the output you desire, you can choose the color separation process more wisely. You would have to choose certain methods for unusual hues and gradations, and for flat colors, you would have to choose other options.
Take Note Of Potential Problems
Well, like any other work, this one also comes with its own set of problems. However, if you make note of the possible problems before beginning work, chances are that you will be able to tackle them better.
Depending on the color separation process that you are using, you will find different drawbacks. Conduct some research and keep the solutions handy in case you have to face similar problems. For example, if you decide to go for a four-color technique, you might have to face the trouble of color pollution when deciding to separate the colors.
So, depending on the foreseeable nature of the trouble, think about all possible solutions.
Final Words
And with that, we have reached the end of our guide!
We hope that everything we have shared about effectively separating colors for screen printing has been of help to you.
To sum it up, we have to say that it is not a difficult process once you understand its intricacies. With a little research and skill, you will be able to weave wonders with all the processes that we have mentioned.
Our one last suggestion is that you understand that it is a costly process, and you try to reduce the errors to a minimum. If you have any further questions, please feel free to reach out to us in the comments section below.
We hope you find the color separation technique that works best for you. Until next time!
When dealing with small spaces, each available corner needs to be put to good use and maximized. A sofa table represents that versatile piece of furniture that can play both a decorative, aesthetically pleasing role as well as a vital functional one. You can use it as a dinning table if your kitchen space does not permit you otherwise, as a small working desk facing your kitchen or TV, a wonderful bar that provides additional seating space at a larger party gathering, allowing you to be a part of the conversation, facing the living space or simply place it on the back of a sofa as a narrow long storage surface, filled with decorations, picture frames, flower vases, candles and so on.
Colorful, vibrant for a fresh pop modern decor, wooden, simple, basic for Scandinavian touches, or intricate, complex pieces of furniture exuding elegance and grace, sofa tables truly do come in all shapes, sizes and styles, available for each style and taste.We have gathered 17 such sofa tables to illustrate their simple beauty and functionality in an interior design. If you feel that your living room is not complete, opt for such a piece and add complexity to your vision.
Gorgeous Sofa Tables
1. a touch of complementary color to add contrast
image via sarahmdorseydesigns.blogspot.com
2. white hues and natural fibers add warmth to any interior décor
16. notice the delicate contrast between the subtle grey sofa and the oak sofa table
image source Heather Hilliard Design
17. modernity meets the old in elegance sublime composition
image source Desire to Inspire
What do you think about the idea of using a sofa table in your living space? We would love to hear your thoughts on the subject in the comment section below.
Are buzzing yellow jackets making it impossible for you to relax in the garden even for a while?
We understand your concern. Finding loads of yellow jackets foraging now and then can be a headache indeed. And when you have children and pets at home, this can be all the more worrisome since these insects leave really painful stings.
Hence, controlling these yellow jackets becomes essential. In this guide, we have compiled all the various ways in which you can tackle these insects. We have also included some essential information that you need to know about yellow jackets and their habits.
So, without further ado, let’s get started.
How to Deal With Yellow Jackets
Yellow Jacket - The Insect
The insect, which is known to people around the world as a “wasp” is also referred to by the name yellow jacket. Native to North America, this insect got such a nickname due to its striking yellow color with black stripes.
In fact, this is why you might mistake it for a bee, which is much gentler in nature and is a more endangered insect. The hornet is another similar looking wasp which is often mistaken to be the yellow jacket.
These insects have a slightly smaller size than the regular bee or wasp and are only around 12 mm long. However, queen yellow jackets can grow to a length of 19 mm.
What makes them dangerous is the fact that they can repeatedly sting without being affected, unlike the bee which will die as the stinger is attached to its heart. They generally tend to build nests in protected areas in a garden which are not directly exposed to rain, sunlight or wind.
What Do They Feed On?
Yellow jackets also have similarities with wasps in their food habits, since they prey on several other insects and arthropods. As such, if these insects are present in small numbers and keep away from any human activity, they can be useful in controlling other pests.
Yellow jackets also look out for food items which are rich in carbohydrates and sugar. You will often spot them around flowers, on tree barks, and on fruits. Also, the larvae require protein to grow, for which the larger worker insects search for fish and meat to feed them.
Life Cycle and Habits Of The Yellow Jacket
These insects have a similar life cycle as that of other bugs. Starting off as an egg, they gradually become a larva, then change to pupa, and ultimately develop into the adult wasp. A queen yellow jacket finds a nest site and makes a small nest from paper where it lays the eggs.
The queen insects can generally lay upto 50 eggs at once. When the eggs hatch, the tiny insects are fed up to 20 days until they develop into small versions of the fully matured wasp.
These insects eventually take over from the queen and keep on feeding the rest of the larva. You would usually find them maturing into adults during the summer.
Habits
Yellow Jackets are social wasps and belong to the Vespula genus. A surprising as well as worrisome fact is that a season is enough for these insects to produce several thousand workers.
The genus has a total of 18 species, which consists of several types of yellow jackets. These differ according to their growth habits and are identified by the area they are found growing in. Identifying them is important so that you are able to deal with the insects properly and effectively. In the next section, we have categorized yellow jackets according to the place where they build their nests.
Types of Yellow Jackets and Yellow Jacket Nests
The German Yellow Jacket
Yellow Jackets Found in Structures
The German yellow jacket, which has its origins in Europe, is located across the midwestern and northeastern regions of the United States. These are widely distributed throughout many temperate areas of the country. They are usually found in wall voids, attics, cracks and crevices in a building surface, and crawl spaces.
The Southern Yellow Jacket
Found in Both the Ground and Structures
The yellow jacket found most commonly is Vespula vularis and occurs in many states in the USA. Their nests are found both below and above the ground level. Eastern yellow jackets or Vespula maculifrons is another type that has ground nests mostly but can also have aerial nests. Vespula squamosa or southern yellow jackets also have terrestrial as well as aerial nests.
The Western Yellow Jacket
Found in the Ground
The Eastern yellow jackets or vespula maculifrons and the western yellow jackets or vespula pensylvanica make nests in the ground. They are commonly referred to as “meat bees”. Such yellow jackets also make their nests in rodent burrows and enlarge the cavity as the colonies grow.
Aerial Habitat
A few yellow jackets, like the D. maculata and D. areanara build nests that are attached to the eaves of structures or hang from a tree. These are not as aggressive as other types.
Dealing With Yellow Jackets
When these insects forage in large numbers in areas of human activity or even are nesting nearby, they can create a lot of problems. Most types of yellow jackets become quite aggressive if their colony is disturbed and may sting anyone they find nearby.
In such circumstances it becomes necessary to control the infestation. There are several ways of dealing with yellow jackets, depending on the severity of the situation. These include some preventive control measures that can be taken beforehand.
Sanitation
You must keep in mind that if yellow jackets find food in an area, they would continue foraging that area at intervals. You can face this even after the original food source is dealt with. Hence it is important to maintain some sanitation practices even prior to noticing yellow jackets in any area. This will also help in dealing with the problem without having to kill them. Here are some methods:
Keep Garbage Cans Sealed
Make sure you have no food sources kept outside for yellow jackets to live off from them. Un-emptied cans, animal food or leftover food lying outside can attract these insects and their larva. So, keep the garbage in sealed cans and put your pet food inside instead of the backyard.
Keep Sugary Foods and Drinks Inside
You must not forget that these insects feed on anything sugary. So, in case you are having dinner on an outside table and are thinking of bringing dessert along, dump that idea. You can have it to your heart’s content indoors.
Keep Sliced Cucumber Pieces
It might seem surprising, but cucumbers can indeed be helpful in keeping away yellow jackets. This vegetable contains an acid which yellow jackets don’t like, so you can slice some and scatter them all around your garden before any outdoor gathering.
Killing the Nest
If you are tired of the frequent foraging of yellow jackets and may even have been stung sometimes, you can consider removing the nest itself. But this should be carried out carefully and slowly.
You should also be aware of the nesting habits of these insects which we have discussed earlier in this article. Remember that though all wasps would defend their nests, hornets and yellow jackets turn specifically aggressive for protecting the queen.
If you disturb the nest, these bugs may swarm out from the colony and attack what they consider to be the disturbance. So, you need to take the necessary protective measures and proceed in the right way. Here is a guide for how you should proceed to kill a nest of yellow jackets:
Locate the Nests
You should do this during the daytime, so that you can identify the worker insects entering and leaving the points of entry. Search for multiple entry points and make sure you mark them.
Treatment
Treat the nest only when it is dark. Yellow jackets don’t have a strong vision, which reduces the chance of getting stung. Besides, at night the entire colony will be there in the nest which would make the treatment most effective.
Use a Pyrethrum Aerosol
You should treat the nest with pyrethrum aerosols such as CV-80D, Stryker 54 Contact Aerosol and PT 565. It is the pyrethrum that forms a gas and fills the cavities in the nest to kill these insects on contact. Use a good-quality sprayer to spray the aerosol in areas hard to reach.
Apply Insecticide Dusts
Wait for about 10-15 minutes for the aerosol to become dry and then dust the opening with insecticide dusts like Tempo Dust. This dust will stop any future hatch outs. You must also dust the entrance, the whole nest and surrounding areas.
Check the Nests
After a day, you must go and check the nest to see if the insects are dead. This can be verified by the lack of any activity in and near the spot. Repeat the process if you find some of them are still alive.
Use of Baits
Baits for yellow jackets can either be made using available resources at home or may be purchased from the market or online shopping sites. Here are two such baits that can effectively control yellow jackets:
DIY Protein Bait
Using this innovative method often helps to keep away yellow jackets. Fill some 5-gallon buckets with soapy water. Then use a string of some length to secure a protein food as bait such as a small piece of ham.
In this way, the bait will dangle a few inches above the water. Finally, cover the bucket with a wide mesh that allows the jacket to enter. The insects which want to take the bait will fly within the water and drown. Also, make sure that the traps are well away from any patio or picnic areas.
Alpine Yellow Jacket Bait Stations
These bait stations can be purchased online and are designed for use with Onslaught Insecticide. First, you have to supply the station with fresh meat along with the Onslaught. This lures the insects into the bait station, after which they ingest the mixture of meat with insecticides. It kills the yellow and black bugs then and there.
This bait is widely used during the summer and spring months to kill the most common yellow jackets which consume meat and protein.
These include the German yellow jackets and western yellow jackets. Remember that during the months of fall, yellow jackets prefer carbohydrates to meat, so this bait may not be effective.
Trapping
You will find yellow jacket traps useful if you cannot locate the nest. Using a lure such as meat or fruit juice with a trap like the Advantage Yellow Jacket Trap works perfectly in such cases.
You can put up such traps by some simple steps mentioned in a guide along with the pack or on the product label itself. This trap is really beneficial during cookouts and picnics, as it draws the insects away from you. Keep in mind these points while you put up the trap:
Ensure the trap is placed away from where you will be. It is then that they will be lured into it.
Meat works well as a lure during early season, while fruit juice works better in the fall months and summer.
The Winter Months
In case some of the bugs enter into the walls when it is cold, some reproductive yellow jackets may survive in the walls. In the spring, they would come out to venture outside.
The reproductive insects won't sting, so there is nothing to worry about that. However, if the nest is located in a warm place, then it may survive the winter in its entirety. To kill the nests you can use the Stryker 54 on the entrance during the dark.
Treating Yellow Jacket Stings
Usually, you will know straight away when a yellow jacket has stung. The symptoms of such a sting are really unpleasant but can be treated. First of all, you will feel the pain, and within a while, the area will redden and start swelling.
To treat a sting at home, you can mix one spoonful of baking soda in water and apply on the sting with a cotton ball. This would help in neutralizing the venom of yellow jackets. To reduce itching, put a little vinegar on cotton and pat on the area.
However, for a small section of people who are more allergic, the sting has life risks. This is known as anaphylaxis and leads to dangerous symptoms such as itchiness, swelling of tongue and skin rashes. Immediate medical consultation and treatment are needed in such cases.
Conclusion
So, if you have been struggling to get rid of these aggressive insects from your garden, we hope this article has been of some help to you.
You may have assumed earlier that it would be a herculean task, but it’s not so difficult after all. You just need to be careful at every step and make sure you are protected when going near the nests.
Wearing gloves and boots, shirts with long sleeves, and trousers with sealed cuffs would help to prevent stings and disturbances.
So, now that you know all about it, go ahead and bring your garden back to its old glory!
There aren’t many of us who haven’t wondered at the marvelous material that is wood. Undoubtedly, this is one of nature’s greatest gifts.
Wood has been helping humans since time immemorial. Whether it’s the fundamental operation of lighting a fire or the more luxurious function of acting as furniture, wood has a permanent presence in our lives.
Naturally, woodworking is a craft that is much in demand, and woodworking professionals often conjure up images of saw-wielding workmen. But the truth is, using a saw is just one of the many ways in which wood can be cut.
Don’t believe us? Well, to clear all your doubts, we’ve brought a list of the different ways by which you can cut wood without using a saw. Once you go through the following, you’ll know that when it comes to woodcutting, a saw isn’t the only option.
But before going into that detail, let’s take a quick look at how a saw works.
The Secret Of The Saw
Saws come in various shapes and sizes, but broadly they can be divided into the manual and motorized varieties. Motorized saws are exactly what they sound like, i.e., they make use of a motor to rotate the saw blade.
Manual saws, on the other hand, rely on human skill and muscle power to get the job done. While both types of saws have their own features and utilities, the one thing that is common among them is the blade.
The saw blade is the most essential part of the device. Usually made of durable metal such as iron or steel, this consists of a serrated edge that is teethed to make cuts. The shape, size, and closeness of the teeth change depending on the saw type.
And it’s using these teeth that the saw achieves its woodcutting magic. The process is rather simple if you put some thought into it. And for both motorized and manual saws, the process is the same; only the power source differs.
A saw mainly works by a continued abrasive motion of the toothed edge against the wood. Through vigorous action, the serrated and sharp edge of the saw bites into the wood material, thus making cuts.
These cuts are intensified with the application of manual or mechanical force. Eventually, the wood material gives way to the razor-sharp edges, and the wood is cut.
Other Tools To Cut Wood
From the above, it can be easily understood that cutting wood is not rocket science. With the right sharp edge and proper force, many tools can achieve the same results. And that’s what we’re going to take a look at now. Following are some tools that can cut wood with as good results as a saw.
This is the first, and undoubtedly the most straightforward device that can be used for cutting wood. Knives are one of the oldest tools known to humankind, and woodcutting is one of the many uses that this device can be put to.
But remember, not every knife is suitable for cutting wood. For a knife to cut wood, it needs to be very sharp. So the first thing that you must do before setting out to cut wood with a knife is to sharpen it to the fullest. This can be easily achieved using a file.
Once you’re sure that the knife is sharp enough, now you need to set the wood for cutting. It’s usually seen that wood cannot be cut with a knife at straight positions. So you’ll need to hold the wood at an angle, and then come in with the knife for sharp, swift cuts.
Another method that you can use to cut the wood with a knife is to use the sharp end of the blade to score into the wood surface. Once the scoring is deep enough, you can snap the wood in two. Either way, remember to trim the cut once you’re done to ensure a smooth finish.
Who would’ve thought, eh? But it’s true: you really can use a drilling machine to cut wood. All it takes is a bit of ingenuity, common sense, and a whole lot of precision.
The first step to cutting wood with a drilling machine is to understand how a drilling machine works. A drill is a device for making holes, not straight cuts. So you shouldn’t expect to take the direct route and cut through the wooden piece.
Instead, what you need to do is first draw a straight line in the wood along the length that you want the wood to be cut. This straight line is going to act as a reference line for the operation.
Next, make very close perforations on the line using the drill. Once you start doing this, the wood will get weakened along that line. And as closely made holes essentially act as a single, straight line cut, this gives similar results to sawing.
Finally, once the wood is weak enough, you can simply break it using your hands. However, remember to trim the edges using a sharp knife for that perfect finish.
Nope, we’re not talking about the fictional movie character (though he’d do well too, we guess!), but a real machete blade. Think of it as a knife but on a larger scale. Using a machete, you can easily cut any type of wood, and with better style than a saw will ever achieve.
Even easier, since with a machete, you have the advantage of momentum. Many of the same principles apply to cutting wood with a machete as with a knife. First, you’d have to sharpen the blade as well as you can. Use a file for this purpose, or a whetstone if you have one.
Once your blade is sharp enough, mark the wood along the line where you want to make the cut. Make sure to use a vice to hold the wood at a slanted angle, as you’d do when cutting it with a knife.
Now, you need to make deep enough cuts in the wood along the preferred line. For rough cuts, you can even use a hacking motion as with an ax (coming up next). Once you’ve made a cut deep enough, the wood will break along the cut. Then it’s simply a matter of smoothening the edges with the blade.
This is one of the oldest and most ideal methods of cutting wood. And although it requires significant labor, the results can be quite satisfying.
The first step that you have to take, as usual, is to sharpen the ax blade. Using an ax, you can easily go for cutting larger pieces of wood. But you need to take certain precautions before going for the initial swing.
First, you need to ensure that the wood is on a firm base, such as a tree stump. Also, the wood should be positioned at such a height that you don’t have to bend over to make the cuts. That’ll help you to deliver even swings that cut equally well on each blow.
Remember, if you’re using an ax for the first time, it might take some getting used to; so be sure to practice well. For best results, try to make a V-shaped notch on each strike, as this allows the blade a larger striking area.
Finally, once you’re down to the last strip holding the wood together, deliver the final blow, and separate the pieces. If you are an experienced ax-wielder, you can even snap the two pieces apart by hand.
A hatchet is, essentially, a smaller ax. Equipped with a shorter shaft and blade than a regular ax, this tool is meant to be used one-handed. Hatchets are excellent for chopping up smaller wood pieces.
Besides making kindling sized cuts, hatchets can make small tinder savings, and even work well to cut down small trees. And though they are nowhere near as powerful as an ax, they still get the job done rather well.
There’s not much difference between using an ax and a hatchet. Both must be carefully sharpened before commencing the operation, and both require the wood to be held at a comfortable height.
For best results, make sure to practice a few swings of the tool before setting out to cut the actual wooden piece. And if possible, make a marking to indicate the line along which you’d like the cut to be made.
This is yet another centuries-old technique for cutting wood. And though it’s not meant to give you elegant, precise cuts, still, it gets the job done rather well. Also, this combination ensures that you don’t take a larger chunk from the wooden piece than you intended.
With the chisel also, you need to first sharpen the blade using a file or whetstone. Once done, you then need to secure the wood on a firm surface. Ensure that it doesn’t slip, or else this might lead to accidents.
Now, hold the chisel at an angle of about 20-degrees from the wood surface. While doing so, make sure that the bevelled side faces up, and the flat side is pressed against the wood.
Now, hit the chisel with the hammer to cut into the wood. This is going to be like striking a pretty large nail. For best results, make a mark along the wood where you want the cut to be made.
You’ll need to repeat the process and follow up with multiple strikes of the hammer for the wood to be cut. When it’s done, you’ll get a wood chip which you can easily lever-up with the chisel. Finally, use the sharp edge of the chisel to smoothen the rough edges once you’ve separated the cut piece.
A word of caution: this is an expert level process, so make sure you practice a bit before setting out on the final cut.
A router is an electric tool that can be used for a wide variety of woodworking tasks, including the cutting of wood. For this purpose, make sure you select a quality device with the right bits; this is essential for the operation to succeed.
The process is pretty simple. First, you need to attach the router bit that has the right gauge for making the required cut. The gauge of the bit you select is usually determined by the depth of the cut needed, so choose carefully.
Then, pull the router trigger up, set the device into the wood, and push down the trigger to begin the cutting process. With steady hands, move the trigger carefully in the direction of the cut.
And once you’re done, release the trigger and remove the device! It’s that easy. However, to get the required depth, you might need to make several passes. This is necessary as cutting too deeply on a single pass may damage the router and break the bit.
What’s more, you can even use a finer gauge bit to smoothen the cut edges. Just be prepared to handle a lot of wood chips along the way.
Surprised you again, have we? Although a lathe is mostly known for working on metal, it can work on wood with equal efficacy. Using a lathe, you can shape and cut wood, create intricate patterns, and make attractive wooden pieces for a variety of applications.
To shape and cut wood with a lathe, you need first to prepare the wood. This is essential to ensure that it doesn’t come off the lathe while paring down. In case you’re starting work on a rough piece of wood, clean it thoroughly before commencing.
Now, lay the piece in place and firmly fasten the faceplate. Take care not to place the screws along the grain, as this may split the wood unevenly. Finally, mark the center of the wood piece, and place it between the lathe centers.
After this, you need to select the right chisel for the job. It’s best to go with one that’ll give you the required depth of indentation. You need to place the chisel on the tool, and slowly advance it towards the turning wood. Over multiple passes, push the tool more deeply into the wood.
Towards the final stage of cutting, increase the lathe speed, and take greater care not to make mistakes. Once done, remove the cut pieces carefully.
The final tool on our list, this is a device that you’re sure to have seen in any carpenter’s workshop. A plane is used to cut wood in long strokes that shave off thin strips from the wood. Here also, the primary requirement is a sharp-edged blade.
While sharpening, take care to stick to an angle of 25-degrees for most wood types. For certain soft varieties of wood, you may use a 20 to 23-degree sharpening angle. Also, adjust the depth wheel based on the depth of the cut required.
Finally, plane through the whole length of the wood for making the cut. While doing so, make sure you go in the direction of the grain. This is essential so that you get a smooth surface and don’t damage the wood.
Plane the wood from one side to the other. Typically, cutting wood with a plane requires multiple passes, and the job can be a strenuous one. So be confident that you’re up for it before starting on the task.
Conclusion
And there you have it, folks! The top tools that you can use to cut wood without a saw. Now, that wasn’t too difficult, was it?
Cutting wood is one of the basic operations that any DIY enthusiast or woodwork professional needs to carry out in the course of a project. And while a saw is always the primary choice for cutting wood, it may not always be available.
But able professionals are not daunted by the lack of a tool. Instead, they improvise and make do with what they have. The above were just examples of the many ways in which tools, which we usually associate with other tasks, can be used to cut wood.
A word of advice for those just starting, however. All the tools described here are sharp instruments and need careful handling. So before you set out to cut wood, make sure that you take the required precautions for your safety.
And if you can think of any other tool that can be used to cut wood, then don’t hesitate to let us know. We’re always happy to hear what you have to say.
Till then, cut away! And don’t forget to improvise.
Cleaning a carburetor is not as difficult as you may perceive. If it looks and sounds dangerous, read on.
Are you under the impression that lawnmowers need to be taken to garages or a repair store every time you need to get it cleaned? Let us break the bubble. With a few essential pieces of equipment, you can do the job at home itself.
But again, you must take specific precautionary measures beforehand. If there are problems with the mower, it is best to let an expert handle the job. But if the mower is working fine, then you can do the job yourself.
Let’s proceed to the tools that are required for this process, and we will also be giving you tips along the way so as to not go wrong. The engines will be purring perfectly by the end of this guide.
How to Clean the Lawn Mower Carburetor Without Removing It?
Required Tools for Cleaning
Now that you have decided to clean the machine instead of taking it apart, you will need the following sets of equipment for partial cleaning.
Air compressor gun
First, before using any other tool, an air compressor gun needs to be used to remove any visible dirt from the machine. There are chances that lumps of grass or soil may be stuck with grease in some areas of the machine. Use this device to blow off the dirt, and then rags can be used to clean it further.
Screwdriver
A screwdriver is essential in any place where screws need to be removed. Here you can choose a Philips product for opening the filter. It can also be used for opening snapped on parts of the machine. Again, if you feel you do not know how to go about using a screwdriver, opt for a plastic card, which is a safer choice and will help in the process.
Aerosol cleaner
For those who do not know what an aerosol cleaner is, it is a liquid solution that is generally used to clean electrical equipment. It can be used on all the parts as well as any other device which runs on fuel. This solution works wonders for machines and keeps them free from rust and other forms of discharge.
Rags
Cotton rags are a must while working with machinery and machine parts. You will be soiling your hands multiple times, and would not want the grease to remain on the fingers for long. So, make sure that you carry a piece of cloth to clean your hands as well as to clean the carburetor.
Flashlight or headlamps
It is essential to have the inner parts of the carburetor visible to the naked eye. So, make sure that you have a flashlight or headlamp while working because even if the room is well lit, the parts may not be visible. A headlamp is a better choice, as this will keep both your hands from being occupied.
Kinds of Lawn Mowers
There are mainly three types of lawn mowers presently available.
Traditional
The traditional lawnmower is one that is devoid of any engine. It works on kinetic energy that is produced when the blades of the wheels inside keep turning. It is a pretty basic machine and cannot be expected to run very efficiently.
Walk-behind
The walk-behind lawn mowers work very smoothly, and you only have to push it where you want the grass to be cut. It slices off the grass and leaves a neat looking lawn. Blades below this machine, which is powered with the help of a carburetor, are the main tools that cut through your lawn.
Ride-on
The last type is the ride-on lawnmower, and yes, it is fun to operate. One just has to sit on it and steer it in the right direction. This is essential for larger fields where walking would be very tiresome. In such cases, this machine cuts off grass efficiently and quickly.
Steps to Have a Clean Carburetor
Before starting this process, you need to assess the condition of the mower. If you are using it on a daily basis and it is maintained well, then we are assuming it is in good condition.
Have you left your gadget in the garage for long, and there is rust on its body, or the mower has seen a lot of rain and is filled with dirt? If that is the case, this process will not work. The mower would be needing professional servicing and has to be taken down to the repair shop to be deep cleansed.
We will now begin with the steps to take care of a machine that is in good working condition.
Step 1
Firstly, to prevent any kind of mishap or injury, make sure the device is switched off. We will require you to switch it on in the middle, but it has to be shut down to begin with.
Step 2
Your second work would be to analyze every part of the unit that is visible to you. This is a required step before proceeding further. For instance, if you see a wire which has been torn off, it may have been a rodent’s doing.
If you see any parts which are rusted, there is a chance that the machine was damp and did not dry up instantly. This led to rusting inside the device. Making a note of these points is important because it will help you decide if you want to go forward with partial clean up or if disassembly is required.
We would advise you here to take some pictures of how the carburetor looks presently. This will help you in the end when you are trying to put everything back in place.
Step 3
We will begin with the air filter. Remember that this can be partially dirty or extremely dirty, depending on your usage. All the air that is pulled in passes through the filter, and thus there is a high chance that it would be very dirty. You could use a rag to clean this, or you may choose to do it with a vacuum cleaner.
See if the air filter is removable as it can be better to remove and clean both sides of it.
Step 4
Focus on all the internal parts of the cleaner with a flashlight or headlamp. There can be an exposed wire, and you do not want to be touching it or having any other wire touch the end. Also, a slight pull may tear a wire. So be very careful while working with the parts.
Any exposed wire should not come in contact with another wire or lumps of grass. This could cause a fire as the grass is inflammable.
Also, since carburetors have dark paint, it may be difficult to see rust, discoloration, or grass stuck inside. A light source will guide you to find these.
This is actually an excellent habit to pursue if you want to become a DIY mechanic or an expert at fixing/cleaning parts. This helps you gain knowledge about the parts.
Step 5
This is where the air compressor gun comes into use. The machine must have seen a lot of grass and dirt throughout its lifetime, and there will be specks of it in the inside of your device.
There are parts which you can only reach with a lot of difficulties, and we would suggest not to do so with your bare hands. It could turn out to be a dangerous endeavor. Use an air compressor gun to clean out the dirt and debris from inside.
A word of caution here. Do not use the highest setting to do this activity. It may end up dislodging a part of a wire. Use it on medium mode for best performance.
Step 6
Now it's time to take out the aerosol cleaner. Do not use water or spray water on the parts. This may cause some portions to rust, and the machine would break down completely. Aerosol cans have a solution which tends to stick to parts and are made to be used explicitly with electrical devices.
Turn on the machine now as every component inside has been cleaned. The cleaner has to move inside the engine completely, and so it is essential to be turned on.
Spray aerosol liquid in the middle of the carburetor in 10 -15 pulses. It is time to let the machine work for another minute. This ensures that the liquid spreads throughout the device, and we can attain full coverage.
After a minute, turn it off and spray the liquid on to the throat of your machine properly. This ensures that you cover the lower plate, which may also have accumulated grime and moss. Make sure it is absolutely clean before proceeding.
Step 7
Now that you have allowed the air compressor gun and aerosol liquid to work their magic on the device, it is time to use your rag for complete cleaning. First, dampen the rug and then use it to wipe off leftover grime.
The rug should be damp and not dripping, as that may lead to damaging parts. Keep rinsing the cloth once in a while, so dirt does not get transferred from one region to another. Continue doing this until every part is visibly clean.
Step 8
After you have completed the job, inspect every part using a light source. View the pictures that you had initially taken of your machine to compare and see if the parts are in order.
To test if the product is working alright, start the engine and keep it running for a few minutes. It should start smoothly without much sound. If it is vibrating less or you hear no chugging, kudos! The job is done.
Why does a carburetor stop working?
The engine can face blockages because of the constant dirt and grass it collects. Also, it may so happen that the machine accumulates a lot of dust and dirt if kept idle for an extended period.
Gasoline deposits, varnishes, and oil deposit may be other materials which can lead to the formation of blockages inside the machine. This directly affects the functioning, and the machine works slower or makes a lot of sounds while it operates.
Tips
If your machine is under warranty, first call up customer care and see if the device can be cleaned up for free. If that is the case, it is best to send it off for professional cleaning.
It is vital that you keep cleaning every part once in a while. This will keep the device running and in good condition, and you would not have to take it to the store for deep cleaning often.
You must know the exact problem that your device is facing before taking the gadget to a store for deep cleansing. Shops tend to make money out of it as they are not expecting someone to know a lot about the working of the device.
The aerosol cleaner has to be of the right variety. If you get a wrong type of cleaner, it may lead to malfunctioning. The bathroom’s disinfectant cleaner is not the right choice and cannot be used as an alternative. You will find a specific product dedicated to lawnmowers.
Final Words
We will again want to reiterate the fact that deep cleansing is not replaceable. You will have to take the mower for deep cleansing once in a while. But partial cleaning at home can be done once a week or once in two weeks, depending on your usage. This will keep the mower working well and the interiors free from rust.
We are sure that you are now ready to clean your own lawn mower. For added help, you can also look up some YouTube tutorials regarding this topic. Let us know how it worked out for you in the comments section below.
Are you fascinated by the waterfall river table that you just watched on YouTube?
It’s time you create such a masterpiece all by yourself using epoxy resins. Epoxy resins are fun to work with but are tricky to handle. They can either create exquisitely beautiful pieces or lead to a terrifying mess.
However, if you’re a DIY lover just like us, then epoxy resins must be your favorite too. They add life to your otherwise dull surfaces and make them bright and shiny. Unfortunately, epoxies turn yellow over time. Thus, what once was bright and shiny is now unpleasant and ugly.
Therefore, colored epoxies are the best for all your DIY work. We decided to pen down a complete guide on “how to color clear epoxy resin” for all the newbies out there. Read on to know how you can create stunning artwork by adding colors to clear epoxy resins and start your own DIY business.
How to Color Clear Epoxy Resin – Coloring Resin 101
Coloring Resin
If you’re a DIY enthusiast going with the trend, we bet you know how intimidating it is working with resins. However, once you get the hang of it, you’ll find it easy to work with it. Clear and colorless epoxy resins are versatile and offer a plethora of applications.
Nevertheless, adding a dash of color to your clear and colorless epoxy resin will let your creativity flow. You can create stunning artwork such as jewelry, keychain charms, pendants, coasters, and much more.
Whether filling cracks on an old table or designing a river tabletop, colored epoxies can help you create stunning DIY artwork that you can sell online for thousands of dollars.
Now, there are a variety of pigments available on the market that you can use to add colors to clear epoxy resin. But, not all of them get along well with epoxy resins. So, which epoxy resin will work best for you? We’ve got all the answers for you in this section.
If you want to give a unique look to your DIY artwork, adding pigment powders to clear epoxy resins will transform the look of every project. Pigment powders’ bright, vivid hues are perfect for jewelry making.
When mixed with epoxy resin, they produce subtle color changes that enhance the aesthetic appeal of the finished product. Simply add a pinch of pigment powder to your epoxy resin, and stir well to make sure no lumps are formed. This is it. You’re done! Now pour it onto the jewelry molds or the canvas for geode art.
While searching for ways to color your clear epoxy resins, you might have stumbled upon resin dyes. Haven’t you? If you don’t know yet, let me tell you that resin dyes are compatible with almost all kinds of resins.
After mixing Part A and Part B epoxy resins, add a few drops of resin dyes to the measuring cup. Also, make sure to stir the mixture properly until you’re confident that the dye has mixed evenly with the epoxy resin.
They are most popular among DIY enthusiasts, mainly because they are easy to mix with epoxy resins. Moreover, they are available in both paste and liquid forms. Also, you can find both transparent and opaque pigments according to your needs.
While light can pass through the casting, transparent dyes add color to your epoxy resins. Hence, you may use them for making pendants, jewelry, coasters, or charms. Meanwhile, the opaque ones do not let the lights pass through them. Therefore, they’re perfect for geode canvas, wall clocks, river tabletops, and the list goes on!
If you’re a newbie with epoxy resins, resin dyes will be the perfect pick for you, mainly because they are easy to mix and work with. However, if you’re looking for more options, then keep reading, for the list goes on!
For all your DIY countertops, tabletops, or waterfall river table, mica resin powder is a must-have in your DIY resin kit.To be honest, this is one of our favorites, too. Mica resin powders add an exquisite and subtle shine to your projects.
Whether you want to create riverbed tables or fill the cracks of your old coffee table, mica resin powders will be a perfect choice for creating stunning masterpieces. Also, it mixes easily with resin without forming lumps into the mixture.
While working with molds, you can even brush the corners of the molds with mica powders to coat the borders. However, you must keep in mind to swirl the mixture with a toothpick after pouring it into the molds. That will surely yield amazing results. But, remember this is slightly more expensive than others.
Another popular resin colorant is alcohol ink. Its beautiful, rich saturation makes it a perfect pick for creating resin petri dish art. After mixing part A and part B resin, add a few drops of ink in the mixture and stir well.
However, you can also add a few drops of alcohol ink after pouring the resin on the molds. Alcohol inks also work best for designing tumblers. Simply cover the tumbler with epoxy resin, and pour a few drops of ink on the tumbler. And your gorgeous marbled cup is ready for use.
Ever thought of pairing acrylic paints with epoxy resins? If not, now is the time to try it. Because of their wide variety of colors, acrylic paints are best to enhance the aesthetic appeal of your objects.
It is an excellent colorant choice because of its abrasion and water-resistant properties. Plus, they are highly durable. However, you must mix acrylic paint and epoxy resin together with great care. It’s best to stick to a ratio of 1:10.
We recommend going for acrylic paints only if you’re a pro at handling epoxy resins. Otherwise, it’s futile to choose acrylic paint as a colorant for epoxy resins. For all newbies, we suggest sticking to other colorants.
If you’re a DIY enthusiast who loves to add a dramatic effect to DIY projects, it’s time you lay hands on glitter powders. From holographic to classic metallic, there are limitless varieties to let your creative juices flow.
Although they don’t really add colors to epoxy resin, they add stunning effects to your pieces. With just a pinch of glitter, you can transform your dull object into a bright, eye-catching one.
How To Color Clear Epoxy Resin
While you know which colorants go along well with epoxy resins, adding colors perfectly to clear epoxy resins still remains a challenging task. When you add any colorant to epoxy resin, the mixing ratio between the hardener and resin is altered. Therefore, it is important you work carefully to avoid creating any mess.
So, herein, we’ve laid down the steps on how to color clear epoxy resin just for you! Take a look -
Step 1| Keep Things Handy
We all are aware of the fact that resin cures pretty quickly. Therefore, keep things handy to avoid any last-minute rush. Resin, hardener, mixing cups, ice cream sticks, blow torch, and everything you may need.
Step 2| Mix Hardener And Resin
Whether you’re about to create a stunning countertop or a beautiful two-tier cake stand, the first thing you need to do is to prepare the epoxy resin mixture. Therefore, the most important step to creating your masterpiece is to mix the hardener and resin in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer.
Most epoxy resins mix at a ratio of 3:1 or 2:1. However, we recommend you follow the instructions given by the manufacturer for an error-free experience. To ensure you mix accurate proportions, you should use a resin calculator and a weighing machine.
Step 3| Add Colorant To The Mixture
After mixing hardener and resin in equal proportion, it’s time to add colorants to them. If you’re using pigment powder or glitters, add no more than a pinch to the mixture. Stir it well to mix the pigment evenly with the resin. Also, make sure lumps aren’t formed.
However, if you go for the liquid pigments or resin dyes, you need to pour just a few drops. Stir it well to mix the color evenly. Alternatively, follow the 1:10 ratio with acrylic paints. As a rule of thumb, add no more than 5% colorant to your epoxy resins because adding more will hamper its functionality. Also, you must use only high-quality branded colorants for epoxy resins because they yield better results.
Coloring Epoxy Resin| Tips And Tricks
Working with epoxy resin is quite a challenge. Hence, you must work with utmost caution to avoid making artsy-craftsy a messy affair. Therefore, we’ve mentioned a few tips and tricks for you. Check them out.
Opt for highly pigmented colors because they do not tamper much with the mixing ratio of epoxy resin.
Always mix the colorant with epoxy resin in a small batch to see whether it is compatible with it or not.
Add colorants to only those epoxy resins that you’ve handled in the past, as it will be easier for you to control the reaction - if any occurs.
Using water-based colorants with epoxy resins is a big no-no!
Choose only colorants that are sufficiently lightfast because this will ensure the longevity of your project.
Remember, resins dislike moisture, so avoid adding more than what is necessary.
Safety Measures To Take While Coloring Epoxy Resin
A Well-Ventilated Space
First off, a well-ventilated space is important for working with epoxy resins. Its fumes are carcinogenic, and of course, you wouldn’t want to inhale them. Therefore, work outdoors.
However, if you work indoors, make sure you work near the windows. Switch on the ceiling fan to ensure proper ventilation.
Wear Safety Glasses
Resins don’t splash because of their thick viscosity. However, it’s better to wear safety glasses to protect your eyes while working with epoxy resins.
Put On A Plastic Apron
Spills and drips are inevitable while working with epoxy resin. And let’s be honest, who would want to ruin their beautiful shirt with epoxy resin stains? Of course, no one! That’s why we recommend you wear a plastic apron while working on your masterpiece. You can either clean it after work or toss it in the bin.
Wear Gloves
Epoxy resins are chemicals, and you need to protect yourself from them. Therefore, you must wear a pair of gloves to keep your hands safe. We recommend you use nitrile gloves against latex ones that obstruct curing.
But, what should you do if resin accidentally gets on your hands? Baby wipes are great for wiping resin from your skin, so keep that handy.
Next, wash your hands with soap and water. Pumice soap works great for sticky resins. Also, keep acetone or alcohol handy to avert the reaction of resin on your skin.
Use A Respirator
After following every safety measure, don’t forget to put on a respirator. To be precise, you’re dealing with chemicals. And so, it’s better to be safe than sorry. If you think fumeless resin isn’t dangerous just because they don’t smell, you’re wrong. All epoxy resins are harmful and so put on a respirator while working.
Use Epoxy Resin Formulated For Art Purposes
You must buy only those epoxy resins that conform to ASTM D-4236 because they are safe for DIY use. However, this does not mean they are non-toxic, location-safe, or food-safe. We recommend you read the instructions along with the do’s and don’ts of the product you’ll be using to understand the product better. Also, don’t forget to use protective gear.
What Can You Do With Colored Epoxy Resin
Adding colors to epoxy resin allows you to turn your imagination into reality. One of the best things that you can create with epoxy resin is river tabletops. Adding them to your living room is sure to enhance the aesthetic appeal of your home.
Moreover, if you’re into DIYs, you’ll love creating this masterpiece. Also, you can open up your DIY crafts store and make hundreds of bucks by selling these online. Simply add a few drops of blue pigment to the resin mixture and pour it on the wooden tabletop.
From pouring colored epoxy in the center coupled with wood planks on the sides to a live edge table with irregular pieces of wood with colored epoxies, you can create anything you want. Not only do the colored epoxies add aesthetic beauty to the table, but they also act as an adhesive to bond the wood strongly.
Also, you can use them to design countertops, tabletops, geode artwork, wall clocks, and decorating tumblers. They are best for all your DIY projects. One of the benefits of using colored epoxy is that they don’t turn yellow over time, unlike clear epoxy resins. As such, your objects and surfaces remain bright and shiny for years. Thus, they age much better than clear epoxies.
How to Color Clear Epoxy Resin FAQ
1. Is Painting Epoxy Resin In Color Possible?
Yes, it is possible to paint epoxy resin in color. However, we recommend you use premium-quality two-component paint or car paints. However, adding color directly to the mixture during the casting process will yield a better result than painting it afterward.
2. What Doesn’t Work To Color Resin?
Epoxy resin is challenging to deal with. Therefore, you must avoid using nail polish, oil paints, and latex paints.
Nail polish will turn your epoxy resin into a hideous amber. Oil paints will form lumps and create a mess. To be honest, we’ve tried latex paint and found that it makes resin stringy. So, make sure you never make the mistake of adding these to your epoxy resin.
3. Are Colored Epoxy Resins Heat-Resistant?
Yes, they are heat-resistant up to 100 degrees celsius. However, it also depends upon the brand, the colorants, and the products used. Therefore, we recommend you layer the colored resin tabletops with a layer of transparent resin to add extra protection.
4. Are Protective Gears Necessary While Working With Epoxy Resin?
Of course, it is necessary for you to wear a respirator and safety glasses while working with epoxy resin. Epoxy resins are no doubt chemicals, and are therefore toxic. To keep yourself safe from health hazards, you must always use a respirator.
Final Words
From aesthetically pleasing countertops to pendants and tumblers, colored epoxy resin lets you create whatever you want. Add colors to epoxy resins and create all that you want. Live edge and waterfall table tops are fun to create but don’t forget to follow safety measures.
However, handling epoxy resin is no child’s play. Therefore, if you’re a newbie, we recommend you experiment with epoxy resin crafts under the guidance of an expert because epoxy resins aren’t forgiving.
With that, we come to the end of our informative guide. We hope we were able to answer your questions regarding coloring epoxy resins. In case you have any queries, reach out to us. We’ll be glad to help you.
Hope you have a fun time experimenting with epoxy resin!
To clean a screen printing machine, a few tools like a pressure washer, emulsion remover, and spray tank are essential. The cleaning process includes three key steps - removing ink, reclaiming, and degreasing or you can also use a dip tank.
A screen printing machine is an amazing tool for creating cool prints and merchandise, especially if you run a screen printing shop, but cleaning it is a daunting task.
However, over time I have found a few hacks to get the job done easily, so today, I am going to share those helpful tips with you in this handy guide. Keep reading to find out how to clean screen printing screens effortlessly!
How To Clean Screen Printing Machines
Let’s discuss what you will need to clean your screen printing machine and how to go about it.
Pressure washer
Emulsion remover
Wax paper
Paper towels
Spray tank
Scrubbing brush
Dip tank (optional)
Gloves
Protective goggles
Cleaning solution
Cleaning Screen Printing Screens
Wear your protective gear before following the steps mentioned in this section -
1. Remove The Tape
Remove any plastic or tape from the surface or sides of the screen to make sure that all the ink is removed. Remember to be thorough because leftover tape can prevent some of the ink from washing out.
2. Remove Excess Ink
Next, you have to remove the excess ink deposited on the screen using a squeegee. You can also use wax paper for ink removal, as it is a straightforward method that doesn’t involve any chemicals. So, wipe off as much ink as possible using a tool of your choice.
A lot of ink will come out during this step and since I don’t like wasting the leftover ink, I usually scrape it off in a container to use later.
3. Reclaim Screens
Reclaiming screens is the most crucial step and needs to be carried out very carefully. If not done properly, you might need to repeat the whole process, as the dirty screen won’t get cleaned entirely.
Lay the screen on a horizontal surface with the print side facing upwards, then spray a generous amount of reclaimer on it and let the screen sit for 2 minutes. Note that the waiting time can vary for different screen reclaimers, so refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for an accurate estimate.
But your screen printing screens can get damaged if the cleaner is left on for too long, so do pay attention to the sitting time.
If you don’t want to use a reclaiming spray, you can also get the job done by soaking the screen in isopropyl alcohol. To do that, soak paper towels or a rag in alcohol, wrap them around the screen and let them sit for a couple of minutes. There are fewer chances of damaging your screen through this method, but on the other hand, it is slower and not as effective.
4. Scrub The Screen
After letting the reclaimer sit for a while, you will have to break the emulsion by scrubbing the screen printing screens using a brush or emulsion remover. Once that’s done, use a pressure washer (preferably ranging between 1,500 and 2,000 PSI) to wash off the reclaimer and residue.
5. Increase The Tension Of The Mesh
If the ink buildup isn’t cleaned even after using a power washer, you will need to check the tension of your screen. Screen prints with loose tension collect ink very quickly and unnecessarily, so, for retensionable screens, you can increase the mesh tension to make cleaning easier.
6. Degrease
Repeat the previous steps on both sides of the screen before finally degreasing it. When all the ink is out, apply a degreaser on the screen to remove any leftover stains. If you miss this step, the emulsion might not stick to the screen printing frames, and also remember to pressure wash the degreaser after 3-5 minutes.
7. Get Rid Of Any Ghost Image
Lastly, keep your screens near a window or at a spot where there is plenty of sunlight to let them dry quickly. Here’s a simple hack to avoid stencil damage of pinholes - do not dry your screens in a humid room. And if you see any ghost images, get rid of them using a haze remover.
How To Clean Screen Printing Machine FAQs
Can a Cricut machine screen print?
If you are wondering can a Cricut machine screen print, let me tell you that it can efficiently screen print. But it is a little tricky to use, and you will need special supplies for it. However, the good part is these supplies are fairly cheap, and the outcome is much more beautiful than regular screen prints.
If you plan to use a Cricut machine, be sure to keep the following items handy:
Speedball screen and ink
Permanent vinyl
Masking and transfer tape
Squeegee
Weeding tools
What are dip tanks?
Dip tanks are handy little containers that allow you to reclaim your screens. You can simply leave your screen in the tank to loosen up the stencil, as they make the cleaning process hassle-free and prove efficient alternatives to manual cleaning.
But if you are worried about the chemicals, I have good news. Dip tanks are made from polyethylene as opposed to heavy plastic containers sold at craft stores, which makes screens resistant to the chemicals present in the dip tank solution.
Your screen printer can automatically insert the used screen in the tank and after about 5 minutes, the ink will wash off from the screen into the solution. It is then sprayed with a power sprayer to get rid of residual ink and emulsion.
What is a screen printing machine used for?
For people wondering what is a screen printing machine used for, it’s one of the most versatile printing techniques used to design goodies and merchandise of all shapes and sizes. Some of its applications are:
Designing clothes
Producing stickers and decals
Printing product labels
For textiles and fabric designs
Printing logos on merchandise, sports products, medical equipment
How To Clean Screen Printing Machine Final words
Now that you know how to clean screens, your next print job might be easier than you think. With the help of the right tools, accurate timing, and a little patience, cleaning screens becomes more manageable.
First, remove the tape and wipe off the extra ink before you use a screen reclaimer to remove the image stain. Once that’s done, pressure wash it, scrub it, and degrease it to make the printing screen spotlessly clean.
Tip
If you want to save money on your future prints, invest in a dip tank, as you will need only a dip tank solution rather than different reclamation chemicals. The solution can be used multiple times in the tank, so overall it’s a very cost-effective option.
It can be irritating to get paint off your brush. However, there is a way to avoid this tedious process, and we have the solution.
If you are into DIY painting projects, you must have dealt with many hardened brush sets. While you might buy a quality brush, you may not be able to maintain it well.
Whether you are using polyurethane, house, or oil paints, the bristles need to be taken care of. They should not be exposed to strong chemicals directly without proper consultation. Also, if the bristles are made of natural hair, then they have a higher chance of breaking off or getting diluted in chemicals.
We were facing the same problem when we decided to do our research on it. After that, we decided to create our own guide about how to clean polyurethane brush kits.
So, dive in!
How To Clean Polyurethane Brush Kits
What Are The Supplies Needed For Cleaning Polyurethane From A Brush?
Before you can get the paint off, you will need to keep all the required materials in one place. Remember that just washing the brush with hot water along with soap is not enough. Dried polyurethane can be quite tough to remove, and you will require a set of supplies for it.
Moving on, you might find some of the ingredients in your house while others need to be bought. You will be needing:
Paper towels
Brush cleaner
Mineral spirits
Plastic containers or glasses
Plastic Bag
Some people use fabric softeners for cleaning dried paint, but you cannot fully trust it. If you have used water-based paints, then soap will not be able to remove it. Plus, you cannot wash it in a basin as all those chemicals could damage your drainage system.
Moreover, if the chemicals reach the sewer system, it could cause more damage. Hence, try purchasing mineral spirits and consult your local hardware store to learn about how to dispose of the chemicals.
Cleaning Process
Step 1| Cleaning With Paper Towels
To begin with, you will need mineral spirits in a container for dipping the towel. In case you cannot get it, use lacquer or paint thinner for this job. These thinners can remove polyurethane and oil paints. But be careful if you are using anything other than mineral spirits as they might remove the paint from good quality brushes as well as damage them.
Next, take the mineral spirit and dip a paper towel in it. Then the brushes can be cleaned with a paper towel soaked in mineral spirits. It should work well with the brush bristles and release some of the polyurethane from a brush. However, you will still have paint on the brush after soaking.
It will only make the process easier and ensure that the paintbrush has less paint on it. Please remember to wear gloves while working to prevent mineral spirits from touching your skin. Additionally, ensure that all windows are open and the area is very well ventilated because the fumes need to leave the room as fast as possible.
Step 2| Using Mineral Spirits
Next, take a good amount of mineral spirits in a container. Again, you can use a paint thinner but be very careful with it. Then dip your paintbrush in the solution so that all the bristles are in the spirit solution. You can get it for both a natural brush and a synthetic brush.
Typically, the brush bristles that are covered with polyurethane paint need to completely emerge, while the upper part of the ferrule needs to be kept away from the paint thinner.
Step 3| Keeping It Soaked
Once some of the polyurethane has come off, you can fill another container with mineral spirits and put your polyurethane brush in it. The dried polyurethane will slowly come off as you swirl the hard paintbrush inside the container. You can then leave the brush in the fluid overnight. Do not wash polyurethane brushes at this time.
Take it out of the liquid to check before you dip it again. This is based on your judgment, and you can handle it accordingly.
Step 4| Taking Out Dirty Mineral Spirits
Remember that harsh chemicals like mineral spirits cannot be thrown in the sink or on the ground outside your house. You will need to take the dirty mineral spirits and ensure that it reaches a hazardous recycling plant. The spirit, paint thinner, or oil paint mixed with the remaining polyurethane can be caustic and harmful for drain pipes.
Step 5| Repeat The Process
Cleaning polyurethane brush sets can be a difficult job, and the bristles deserve to be completely free from it. Now, you might want to repeat the entire process as the polyurethane coating may not disappear completely.
So, go forward and take some mineral spirits to repeat the entire process. Swirl the cleaning brushes in the formula before you leave it for a few hours. Then clean again to see if the paint has been more or less removed. The second attempt should ensure maximum cleaning power and should make your brush cleaner.
Also, please avoid vigorous scrubbing as that could lead to the breakage of natural hair bristles.
Step 6| Rinse well
Once you have removed most of the polyurethane from the brush, it is time to bring out hot water. Keep your brushes in hot water for a while to loosen excess paint. You can also use dish soap along with water to create a soapy water mixture. This should make it easier to wash polyurethane brush kits.
Your brush bristles deserve proper care, and hence, you need to be very gentle with the brushes. After washing it thoroughly, you will need to use a brush comb. A brush comb will slowly clean polyurethane off the bristles.
Step 7| Dry The Brushes Well
Next, you will need to clean the brushes well with paper towels and check if all the dried polyurethane has been removed. Make sure that you do not tear the bristles while you are taking out the polyurethane from a brush. You might also end up loosening the bristles, which will create further problems. Gently wipe with a towel and then keep them dry.
Once the brushes are dry, you will need to store them. If you have used natural brushes, then you will need to keep them wrapped in paper. Use old newspapers for this purpose. However, if synthetic brushes need to be taken care of, you can wrap them up in a plastic sheet. Both the materials will keep brush bristles dry and prevent them from breaking or bending in time.
How To Clean Oil-Based Polyurethane Brush: An Alternative Method
If you are using oil-based polyurethane, then you can try working with water, dish soap, and paint thinner. It is best if you wear gloves as well as well-ventilated masks before starting work. Keep the area well-ventilated so that all the toxic fumes can leave the house immediately.
Using A Thinner
First of all, you will need to get hold of paint thinners. This can be bought from any local store. Once you have it, pour some into a cup. Ensure that there is enough fluid in the bowl to cover the hard paintbrush bristles. There is no need to fill it to the top.
Next, you will need to dip the paintbrush in the paint thinner and keep it in the same way for the next 20 minutes or so. This will help the paint in loosening up slowly.
After 20 minutes or half an hour, start bending and moving the brush from one side to another. It should be bent in such a way that the thinner touches the metal area of the brush. This will keep it from drying or hardening up.
Then it is time to take the brush out. Wring it gently so that the remaining paint thinner leaves the brush along with the paint. You can repeat the process till the paint comes off well, and you have a clean polyurethane brush.
Cleaning The Paint Brush
Wear your gloves before beginning the process. You will need clean gloves to keep your skin safe while washing the brush. Then put some dishwashing soap on the brush and work it well. Ensure that the natural or synthetic bristles are covered with it before rinsing them out.
We will recommend rubbing it well to get all the dried or dissolved paint out. Then rinse and wash out the soap. Wash for some time to make sure that all the soap has left the bristles. If any of it remains, it will only harden up, and you might face difficulty in cleaning it.
Drying The Brush
Now, it is time to dry the brush well without letting it harden up. You can take a microfiber brush to clean the bristles well. Do it until no water drips from the body. Once it is done, you can let the brush rest for a while.
If you want to paint with oil paint, then there are ways to clean a brush without paint thinner.
Storage And Care Guide
Now that you know how to clean polyurethane brush kits, there are a few things that you must keep in mind when it comes to brush care. Be very careful with the brushes and ensure that bristles do not come out of the metal part. Permanent breakage would lead to damage of the entire brush, which is not needed.
Short Breaks
If you are painting a large space, you might need to take breaks in between. Generally, one would keep the brush on a newspaper, paper towel, or an old rag while they take a break. Remember that even if you leave it for half an hour, the brush could be spoiled. There are more efficient ways to store the brush, and you can try them out.
In case of a short break, it is best to leave the brush in the paint tub itself. Ensure that one-third of the bristles are inside the paint can. Then the paintbrush will not dry up at all, and you can begin painting as soon as you return.
Short Breaks
If you are going to take a longer break, then leaving the brush inside the paint may not be a good idea. Some would want to wrap the brush in a sheet of plastic and store it. But again, if you leave it in this way for a long period, then the plastic may stick to the brush as the paint dries.
The plastic wrap will contain air inside, and that aids in the process of drying up the extra paint. Also, plastic will let moisture get inside, hardening it up.
A good alternative to plastic is aluminum foil. This foil will keep the brush dipped in polyurethane paint safe and prevent it from drying up fast. However, remember that you need to wrap the brush well with aluminum leaving no space in between. Then you can cut off the remaining foil bits. This should prevent hardened bristles, and you can go on long breaks.
Water-based and Oil-Based Polyurethane
If you are using oil-based polyurethane, then it is best to choose natural brushes. Natural bristles are better suited, and the oil-based paint will be applied evenly. Also, it is easier to clean oil-based polyurethane from natural bristles.
However, if you are working with water-based polyurethane, then synthetic brushes will fit the bill. Synthetic bristles will not hold on to the water-based paint and will help you remove the hardened polyurethane easily.
Moving on, you should know that both oil-based and water-based polyurethane is used for floor finishing. It provides a lovely shine, and now, you can clean the brushes well too.
Conclusion
Once you learn a good clean-up technique, it should save you a lot of money in the long run. You should be able to make a brush last longer, and you do not have to pay for a new one. Some people even use a fabric softener to keep the brushes clean.
Also, do not try to scrub the hard paint from brushes as that might have a detrimental effect. Just follow all the instructions above carefully. That should make the paint leave the bristles by itself.
It is finally time to wrap up, and you can let us know how you clean brushes in the comment section below. We will come back soon with another comprehensive guide for you.
Although having clean gutters sounds easy, it is not quite a simple task. Some might believe that installing gutter guards takes care of the problem once and for all.
However, the truth is that even the best gutter guards need cleaning. But, if the system is better, it doesn’t have to be cleaned as frequently. The job of the gutter guard is to protect gutters from twigs, leaves, and other debris, all the while allowing water to pass through them unhindered.
But, over time, debris does start accumulating in the gutters and needs to be hosed out. Although it is an easy task, it should not be left unattended if you wish to avoid damage to the house.
So, the important question here is - how should you effectively clean gutter guards? Let us get into the details without any further delay.
Why Do We Need Gutter Guards?
Although we’ve touched upon it briefly, a gutter guard can be defined as something which protects our gutters from debris and dirt. It could become problematic if these accumulated too much. Most gutter guards work in the same way; they catch small leaves and the castoffs of trees, allowing us to blow them away once they’re dry. Further, they allow the rainfall to pass down the roof before going into the gutter.
There are various designs when it comes to these guards, and homeowners can easily install them too. Alternatively, you can hire professionals to take care of the installation. Apart from keeping gutters clean, these guards also help in various other ways.
Firstly, gutter guards prevent animals from making nests or homes. There’s no need to frequently climb up a ladder to clean the gutter, making it safer. The guards can easily be attached to existing gutters, and they prevent water from getting pooled. In turn, this stops too many bugs from accumulating around stagnant water.
Not only do the guards protect the gutters and keep them functional for a longer time, but they also help in rainwater harvesting, for those interested.
How to Clean Gutter Guards?
First off, you should do away with the notion that gutter guards eliminate the need to clean gutters at all. Several products might claim to do so, but it merely means that you don’t have to constantly clean them out after every storm or when leaves fall in autumn. That aside, it is recommended that you check them annually and clean them as needed.
Now, before we get to the steps of cleaning the gutter guard, here’s what you’ll need. Grab a drop cloth, a ladder to reach the higher places, hand protection, and a hose if you have someone assisting you.
Finally, this brings us to the step by step cleaning process.
Place the Drop Cloth
Placing the drop cloth should be the first thing to do since it serves as a safety net of sorts. It should ideally be under the area where you’ll be working. This way, the cloth can catch the debris that might fall during the cleaning process.
It saves you from the hassle of having to clean out your lawn or garden bed just to remove the debris from cleaning your gutter guard. Moreover, it protects the bushes or shrubs that might be in the way of the falling debris.
Securing the Ladder
In order to clean the gutter guard, you’ll be on your ladder for a long time. Usually, these guards run along the roof, which means the altitude is rather high, and a fall from that height is most likely to hurt you.
Therefore, it is best to take all possible precautions. Secure the ladder before using it, and take any other additional safety measures that you see fit. If possible, have someone hold the base of the ladder for an additional degree of safety and stability.
Using Hand Protection
Since cleaning the gutter guard requires you to work with your hands, it is best to use protection. We recommend wearing gardening gloves so that you don’t accidentally stab yourself in the hand with a twig or something sharp while cleaning out the gutter.
We recommend keeping the gloves on before climbing the ladder so that you can use both hands for the cleaning process.
Remove Materials Off Guards
Once you’ve put on the gloves and climbed up the ladder, it is time to get to work. First, you should remove all the debris that the guard has caught. Normally, this is a simple enough task. The leaves, twigs, or branches can be swept off with a single stroke of the hand. If something feels stuck, then it is advisable to pull at it gently until the object becomes loose.
Remove the Guard
Notably, this step is only applicable to those who have hinged guards or removable ones. After everything on top of the guard has been cleaned off, you can open it up completely. In the event that you feel the openings are blocked, or if it is a brush style guard, then you might choose to rinse it off.
This opens things up. Further, you can look inside the gutter to see if there are things accumulated that the rainwater hasn’t rinsed. It is ideal for removing anything that can be grasped and keeps the gutter clean too.
Hose Down the Guard
If you see that your gutter guard is not removable, we recommend using a hose. Let the water flow freely through the openings and then go through the gutter. This clears out any possible blockages by removing the dirt that might have accumulated there.
Replace the Guards and Secure Them
In the event that you might have removed the guards, be sure to secure them and put them back in the correct manner. After that, perform a quick check to see if anything is caught in them or blocking them, despite the rinsing or hose down. If everything looks fine, then clean up the site.
Kinds of Gutter Guards and How to Maintain Them
Though there are different kinds of gutter guards, maintaining them and keeping them clean and debris free is rather similar. All the guards are designed to keep debris from getting into the gutter itself. So, occasionally, a branch, twig, or leaf might need removal.
These usually work with your pre-existing gutters. They are very budget-friendly and are easy to install, as well. The bristled brushes almost appear as a large brush that might be used for bottle cleaning. It fits directly into the gutter and allows the water to pass through while catching the larger debris.
To maintain this, you have to clean out some of the debris that might get stuck and also check for the dirt that hasn’t been completely washed through.
These are made of metal, and they fit over the gutter. Thus, water can pass through, but understandably, the perforations stop the debris from doing the same. Here, the debris is accumulated on top, so it is extremely easy to sweep them clean once they are dried up.
These are actually quite similar to the perforated variants. Here, a super fine mesh is placed over the gutter. Thus, the water can flow through easily, thanks to the many open spaces. At the same time, no debris is allowed into the gutters.
Here too, debris might get accumulated at the top. At this time, it would be easy to clean the screen by wiping the top of the gutter guard completely clean.
One might choose to set these into the gutters to allow the water to flow through easily. Although the foam is well equipped to prevent debris from entering, the dense nature of these guards ensures that you have to rinse them from time to time.
Sometimes, you also have to remove some bits that get stuck to the surface, like twigs or a pine needle. This is one of the more inexpensive guards, which is also simple to maintain.
These designs often fit over existing gutters through attachments to the roof. Sometimes, they serve as an entire gutter system, which allows rainwater curving down the gutter and washing the debris away at the same time. Overall, this is considered to be extremely effective, and if installed in the right manner, little to no maintenance is needed for this system.
Final Words
At the end of the day, you have to remember that a clogged gutter can turn into a nightmare for homeowners. The roofs might get damaged as well, so it would be smart to clean the gutters occasionally.
Here, we have shown the different kinds of gutter guards you can install to minimize the hassle of cleaning the gutter itself. But, each of these has to be maintained too. Routine inspections work best, especially after storms or during times when you know the gutters might be exposed to debris.
Hopefully, following the guide here, you will have an easy time cleaning out your gutters. It is best to follow the safety measures we’ve recommended. As an additional tip, we should mention getting a bucket during the cleaning process to keep the debris for later disposal.
If you have any other questions about keeping the gutters and the gutter guards clean, feel free to reach out to us. Adios!
While Gas Stoves definitely have plenty of advantages over electric cook-tops, they fall short when it comes to maintenance.
Gas Stoves have a tendency to get quite greasy and dirty, thanks to all the food spills and high-heat, and getting them cleaned thoroughly can be a really tough job!
Just wiping your stove down and making it shiny is not enough. In order to get your stove really cleaned, you need to take things apart and clean out all the nasty stuff that accumulates in the interiors.
Not only is a clogged gas burner unsanitary, but it can also ruin your burner's efficiency by giving off a weak flame, and hence cause you to incur more costs.
So, if you're struggling to clean your gas burner or have no idea where to start, we are here to help you out! This article will guide you through the entire process of cleaning your gas burner, and give you tips on how to better maintain your gas stove burners.
So let's get started!
Gas Stove Cookware
Before we get started with the actual cleaning process, naturally, you have to declutter first but before that let's first discuss an elementary thing that you can do to ensure your stove doesn't get as messy.
One of the most important but overlooked things that you can do not to create a mess is getting good cookware for cooking On the Gas ! This is not only necessary to maintain better hygiene, but also has a great deal of impact on the quality of your cooking.
You can have the most high-tech kitchen with all the fancy attachments and equipment, but if you don't have good cookware, all that is pretty much useless!
Bad quality pots and pans can entirely ruin the cooking experience for you by causing uneven heat distribution, and often causing your food to burn! Plus, they are much more prone to food spills which are one of the biggest contributing factors towards clogged burners.
So, do yourself a favor, and buy some good quality pots and pans for your kitchen if you haven't already. We promise it will prove to be a great investment!
How to Clean Gas Stove Burners
Cleaning your Gas Stove Burner can be a complicated process, and I have no shame in admitting that I myself struggle with it sometimes. But, by following the steps described below, this chore can become a hell lot easier.
1. Read the Instruction Manual Provided by the Manufacturer
This is the first thing that you need to do before you get started. It helps a lot to know what kind of care is best for your stove and also things that you should avoid.
Different manufacturers have somewhat different mechanics when it comes to Gas Stoves, and knowing which parts are safe to remove and which are not can help you avoid causing serious damage to your gas burner.
If you are confused about how to start your cleaning process, the product manual is a good starting point. They usually come with pretty detailed instructions, and sometimes even recommendations about which cleaning products to use.
2. Assemble the Cleaning Materials
After you have read through the manual and have an idea regarding the process, go ahead and gather all the products and materials that you'd need to get started. Make sure you keep all of them handy and readily available. You don't want to be fumbling around all over your kitchen looking for your cleaning cloths.
You'll need the following items -
Dish Soap
Baking Soda
Cleaning Cloths
Paper Clip or a Straight Pin
Lots of Water
3. Prepare your Stove for Cleaning
Before you start with cleaning, make sure your stove is cool. Turn off all the burners on your oven and give it some time to cool off properly before you start removing the parts. Cleaning a hot stove can result in your hands getting burnt, and that's not good!
Once your burners are cooled down, you can start removing the parts of the stove that can be removed. This includes the burner grates and the caps, along with any other part that can be removed as per the product manual.
Next, you need to fill up your sink with hot water and add a few drops of dish soap into it. If a sink is not available, you can also use a large bucket or a wash basin.
You then need to place your burners and other removable parts into your sink and make sure they are fully submerged. Let them stay there while you clean up the other parts of the stove.
If there is a lot of grease buildup, simply submerging these parts will not be sufficient. To clean up excessively greasy burners, prepare a paste of one part water and one part baking soda. Use a brush to gently scrub the parts to remove the grease and then proceed to rinse them up thoroughly.
4. Unclogging the Burners
This is a task that you need to be very careful with. High heat and food residues often cause the buildup of grease and other nasty stuff inside the tiny little holes on your burner from where the flame comes out. The burners need to be cleared out in order for your stove to function optimally.
For this purpose, use a small straight pin or a paper clip and gently unclog each small hole on your gas burner. In case you own an older cooktop that has a standing pilot light, make sure you shut off the gas valve before you being.
Removing blockages will substantially restore the function of your stove burner. However, you need to exercise caution while performing this procedure. First of all, you need to make sure you do not clean the ports using toothpicks! This is a very common mistake that people make, and end up further adding to their problem.
It very often happens that the wooden pick breaks while trying to unclog the pores and gets stuck inside the hole, clogging it further. You also do not want to dig too deep inside the little holes.
5. Use a damp cloth to clean the gas burners
While cleaning up the gas burners, you need to ensure that no water seeps inside the little holes of your burner. Use a slightly damp cloth that is not wet to wipe the burners. Also, never spray any type of cleaning product directly onto the burners as that can be really dangerous.
To clean around the burners, using a brush is a good idea as it is hard to reach these places with rags. Use a toothbrush to get into the small openings and crooks around the burners, and then finally wipe the entire stove clean with a clean cloth.
6. Turn on the Pilot Lights
Once you're done with cleaning up the burners and placing all the parts in their respective places, give your stove one final shine by cleaning it up with a cloth. Now follow the instructions provided on your product manual to turn the pilot lights back on, and that's it!
You're done cleaning up your Gas Stove Burner, and can now proceed to cook some delicious meals!
Conclusion
There is nothing better than a nice and clean gas stove to cook on! Plenty of experienced chefs swear by gas stoves and refuse to cook on anything other than gas burners. Thus, taking good care of your gas stove is essential, and it's not that hard to achieve.
We hope our little guide on how to clean Gas Stove Burners has been helpful to you!
The most frustrating thing to see when cleaning an electric kettle is mineral buildup or kettle furring. While it is annoying, it's not something to be too worried about.
In this comprehensive guide, we will go through the steps and how you should clean your kettle using household items, as well as how to prevent large amounts of mineral deposits from forming.
We will go through a few easy steps you can take to make sure that you can keep your trusty electric kettle clean. Here are the materials, equipment, and steps you need to take.
What You'll Need To Clean Your Electric Kettle
Here are the equipment and materials you'll need to perform the steps we'll be running through.
Equipment
A non-abrasive sponge or a bottle brush
A good quality microfiber cloth
Materials
Dish soap or dishwashing liquid
Distilled white vinegar, lemon juice, baking soda, or citric acid powder
Using a 3:1 ratio of water and vinegar, fill it to the half-full level. Don't put too much, or it might overflow when boiling.
If you don't have white vinegar, you can substitute it for either lemon juice or citric acid powder. We'll explain how to use these substitutes properly in a later section.
Then, quickly boil water inside the kettle. You can either start by putting the vinegar and water mixture in and then boiling, or bringing cold water to a boil and then adding vinegar.
Once you see confirmation of boiling water, turn it off if your electric kettle doesn't have an automatic shutdown function.
Before you spend more energy cleaning, you should unplug and disassemble the electric kettle from the other electrical components that might get damaged by the leftover water.
Check out the manufacturer's directions in the owner's manual of your kettle to find out how to safely disassemble the kettle.
First, you'll want to clean the water filter. Most are metal and can be cleaned in a solution of hot water and vinegar, similar to the one used for the kettle itself.
Next, you'll want to get a non-abrasive, soft sponge or a soft-bristled brush to scrub the inside of the kettle. This will dispel the mineral buildup left inside, which should come off quickly.
Tip
If you're struggling with a tough limescale buildup, you might want to use a vinegar and water solution to help break it down.
When you're done scrubbing, the next step is to rinse the kettle. First, you'll want to fill the kettle with hot water to remove any remaining scrubbed-off mineral build-up.
Next, you should rinse the kettle using cold, fresh water or soapy water to clean it further. While there's dish soap inside, you should also thoroughly scrub it.
Finally, you should clean the electronic and non-washable parts of the electric tea kettle using a damp cloth. This includes parts like the heating element.
You can even use olive oil and a microfiber cloth to wipe the exterior of the kettle and keep it looking shiny and clean.
Why is it Important to Descale a Kettle?
Here are two reasons why you should always keep your electric kettle clean. The first reason is to prevent a decrease in heating performance.
The limescale buildup can cause electric kettles to be less effective. It may take longer to heat water, which can be annoying if you need to make a cup of coffee or tea quickly.
The mineral build-up can also affect how your coffee or tea tastes. While it isn't hazardous to your health, seeing sediments floating around your tea cup can be annoying.
How Often Should You Descale Your Electric Kettle?
You should be descaling your electric kettle at least once a month if you use it every day, or more if you notice build-up already happening.
If you don't use your electric kettle as much, you can get it by giving it a rinse once every two or three months, which is very low maintenance.
If you live in an area with hard water, you should wash and boil to clean your kettle more often.
Methods for Cleaning Your Electric Kettle
If you don't have white vinegar in your cabinet, then there are a few alternative methods for cleaning your kettle.
Baking Soda
First, fill up a kettle with enough water to reach 3/4 full. Add a heaping tablespoon of baking soda to your clean water, then follow the same instructions as mentioned previously.
However, the difference is that you should boil the kettle again with fresh water to ensure no excess baking soda is left afterward.
Lemon Juice
The second alternative is using a 1 to 1 ratio of water and lemon juice, filling the kettle with the same amount, and then heating it to a boil.
Citric Acid
The last alternative cleaning solution that you can use is citric acid. Use the same amount of water but two tablespoons of citric acid powder and heat that to a boil.
One consistent process between these alternative methods is letting it sit before you rinse, wipe, and perform the rest of the cleaning process.
Tips for Keeping Your Electric Kettles Clean
To prevent any limescale buildup from happening too often, you can do a few things to keep your kettle clean.
Don’t Let Water Sit For Too Long in the Kettle
If you always fill the kettle and let the water stay inside overnight after using it, the minerals will have a faster build-up as they have more time to settle.
Whether you have an electric or stovetop kettle, you should always rinse the kettle after use, as it can affect both kettle types.
Wipe and Rinse the Kettle After Every Use
Another thing that applies to both electric and stovetop tea kettles is cleaning them after each use.
This will remove any buildup that has already formed without you needing to boil water.
Use Distilled Water Instead of Tap Water
You should use distilled water if you live in an area with heavy water. This is because your tap water may have more minerals that can cause build-up in the first place.
Boil to Clean Regularly
If you don't want to do the whole cleaning process over and over again, you should consider boiling water in the kettle, even when not making coffee or tea.
This heat will help remove any vinegar taste from previous cleaning or mineral residue.
Cleaning Electric Kettle FAQs
What is the Best Way to Clean an Electric Kettle?
The best way to clean an electric kettle is by using a solution with water and vinegar for the inside and using a soft cloth and olive oil to wipe the outside and heating element.
What Is a Limescale Catcher?
A limescale catcher is a metal ring that you place inside of the kettle that absorbs and catches any minerals that would have caused build-up.
What Are the Common Issues of Electric Kettles?
The two most significant issues aside from mineral buildup are leaking and the heating element malfunctioning. This could be because the electric kettle switch doesn’t work.
If you have any of these issues, you should contact the manufacturer of your electric kettle. Most cover these factory defects under warranty.
Hopefully, our article has helped you clear any build-up of minerals from your electric kettle or stovetop model. Whichever method you use should work well.
However, if you really want to have low maintenance, you should not leave any water in the kettle and clean it after each use to prevent any buildup from actually happening.
Owing to their distinct looks, Calathea plants are popular houseplants. If you're considering getting one, here are some care tips that can help them thrive.
This plant goes by several intriguing names - the Prayer Plant, Peacock Plant, Zebra Plant, and even Cathedral Plant. The Calathea plant is easy to spot - with its distinct green, red, and cream leaves dissected by white veins.
It’s a compact-sized indoor plant that thrives with indirect sunlight and periodic watering. Calathea can be slightly fussy and tricky to care for, but don't let that dissuade you. Once you know more about this plant and understand its needs, caring for it will be effortless.
With their beautiful, aesthetic appeal and ability to purify indoor air, these plants make the perfect plant pets for most people. Typically, they grow slowly, reaching just about 3 feet in height. So, if you're ready to know more about these wonderful plants, go through this detailed guide thoroughly.
Let us begin!
Calathea Plant Care 101
Caring For A Calathea Plant
Caring for these beautiful plants can give you a sense of fulfillment and richness. Keeping just a few essential factors in mind, you will be able to care for and raise these beautiful plants with striking looks and enrich the environment of your home. Here are a few important things to keep in mind when dealing with Calatheas.
Sunlight
The Zebra plant ideally thrives in a space that receives bright but indirect sunlight. This is one of the primary reasons why it makes such a good houseplant. You can decorate the Calathea in the bedroom, bathroom, living room, and it will do just fine, as long as it gets light.
That being said, this plant can also survive in low, indirect light. A shaded spot in a sunny room is the perfect environment for it.
Another important thing to keep in mind is that the Calathea thrives in medium to bright (and even low) sunlight; however, it doesn't do well in direct sunlight. Keeping your plant under direct sunlight will cause it to lose its wonderful coloring and slowly wilt.
Humidity
A Calathea plant prefers high humidity. There are several ingenious ways in which you can provide humidity to your water-hungry plant. However, if you live in a place that already has a high level of humidity, don't bother.
Place a humidifier in the room where you keep the Calathea - it will thank you for this! An alternative to buying a humidifier is to place the potted plant on top of a saucer filled with water and pebbles. The functionality of the pebbles is to provide a stable and slow flow of water to the plant through the pot.
Another cheap and easy alternative is to lightly mist the plant once every few days. You can change the frequency of doing this according to how much humidity you are facing and the plant's needs.
Temperature
The ideal temperature range for your beautiful Peacock plant is 65°F to 85°F or 18°C to 30°C. In case the temperature dips below 60°F, or 15°C, you will observe the plant reacting visibly to this change.
To maintain a stable temperature for it, try and keep the windows shut in cooler climates. Avoid allowing cold drafts to enter your home, or at least the room in which you keep the plant.
Water
Although this plant loves humidity, it isn't a huge fan of overwatering. The best rule to keep in mind is to keep the plant's soil moist but not soggy.
Ideally, you should water the plant once every 1 to 2 weeks. Allow the soil to half-dry in between watering sessions. You might have to water it with variable frequency depending on the situation (brighter light, less humidity, high temperatures, etc.)
To understand whether to water or not, insert your finger into the soil about 2.5cm down, and test the dryness of it. If the soil is moist, avoid watering the Calathea, as it will react negatively. However, if the soil is dry, feed it at room temperature, preferably with distilled water.
That being said, if feeding it distilled water is problematic, tap water will work just fine. Remember to let the water sit out overnight before feeding it. This small trick will ensure that the chlorine content in the water dissipates naturally and doesn't harm your plant.
If you are ever in doubt about how much you should water this plant, just remember one thing: It is better to underwater Calathea than overwater it.
Fertilizer
When it comes to using fertilizer for the Calathea, it isn't too fussy. You can opt for a liquid fertilizer diluted to just ½ strength. Feeding it this additional nourishment is only required during the growing season. You can entirely skip doing this during the fall and winter seasons.
An important tip - Water the plant well before fertilizing, diluting the strength of the fertilizer thoroughly. Otherwise, you risk burning the roots of the delicate Calathea.
You can opt for a multi-use marine fertilizer for the Calathea. These fertilizers are completely safe for the plant and pets, children, and your family. Moreover, it doesn't create unnecessary mineral buildup in the soil, which is vital for a plant.
This fertilizer is also eco-friendly, which makes it an ideal option for the environmentally conscious. However, you can also opt for other fertilizers. Ensure that you research them thoroughly, so it doesn't end up harming the Calathea.
Container & Soil
Coming to the soil type for this plant, you need to be mindful of what you use. Here, the Calathea can be slightly fussy again. It prefers well-draining soil that also has the inherent ability to retain water.
Look for a well-draining but the light potting mix for it. This ensures that the plant's roots remain moist, and it can seep water as and when it requires.
As for the container, it is best to get one with adequate draining holes. It ensures that the soil doesn't get too soggy or have stagnant water collecting in it. Furthermore, it encourages air circulation and ventilation for the plant.
You can also opt for a terrarium, as they add an aesthetic value to the room while acting as the ideal environment for a Calathea. If you are creative enough, you can try a DIY project to cut up a bottle or paint it. Place your Calathea plant in the DIY bottle for a perfect home.
Pruning
The maintenance of this plant is relatively straightforward and effortless. Since it is a slow-growing plant, it doesn't require excessive amounts of pruning. Simply trimming the stems and doing away with the dead and wilted leaves is enough.
When pruning the leaves, ensure to cut the leaf at its base, where the plant joins with the stalk. This gives the leaf a clean cut, adding aesthetic value. It makes the plant look more presentable, which is fantastic.
If you notice that there are yellowing or brown bits only on the leaf's edges, don't worry. You shouldn't cut the entire leaf away in this case. Simply trim the leaf with scissors or a small pruning tool along its natural edges and curves.
Another essential tool to keeping this plant looking fresh and healthy is to dust it regularly. Every once in a while, use a damp cloth to wipe the beautiful Zebra plant's leaves. It removes the fine layer of dust and pollution from its surface, allowing the plant to breathe easily.
Repotting
Not many people are aware of the fact that Calathea plants propagate through division. In fact, propagating the plant during its repotting is one of the best and most convenient ways of growing it.
Once every few years, repot your Calathea at the beginning of its growing season. Remember, you can use a diluted fertilizer during this time to ensure that it grows and matures well.
The compelling reason why you should divide and propagate the plant during repotting is that the process puts the plant under high stress. The more times you repot or divide the plant, the more stressed out it becomes, eventually refusing to grow well.
By dividing the plant during its repotting sessions, you put less stress on it in the long run. Observe the plant's roots, looking for the natural separation in them. Gently split the plant and repot it in its appropriate soil mix and container.
Why Should You Get A Calathea Plant?
Calathea plants are one of the most unique and aesthetic looking houseplants. They are immensely popular due to their peculiar looks. Moreover, they are relatively easy to care for - as long as you know their needs.
Aside from the apparent beauty that the plant adds to your home, there are several other benefits of choosing one for your home. A Calathea plant instantly brightens up any room it is kept in, owing to its bright, beautiful leaves with unique textures and patterns.
They don't require too much sunlight and can tolerate medium to low levels of light. This makes them apt for growing in almost any room of your home. Furthermore, they don't require too much watering or maintenance as well.
Moving over to the health benefits, this plant is known for its ability to purify indoor air. The leaves efficiently filter out pollutants, all the while increasing the level of oxygen in the house. They also boost the humidity content of a room.
Caring for plants and watching them grow is exceptionally fulfilling, even for the new plant parents. People experience a boost in serotonin levels with these wonderful plants around their homes.
Common Problems, Causes & How To Fix Them
In general, the Calathea plant is known for being low-maintenance. It doesn't beg for excessive amounts of attention and care, unlike many other houseplants. That being said, there are a few common signs and symptoms that let you know how the plant is feeling.
Here are the most common problems it faces, how to recognize them and fix them:
Wilting & Curling Leaves, Dry Potting Mix
Ideally, this plant has bright leaves with white veins running through its surface. The leaves can be found in various beautiful shades of red, green, and even pale shades. If you notice your plant's leaves starting to wilt or curl, it is a clear symptom of something. Observe the potting mix as well, whether it is dry or moist.
This is a common issue with Calathea plants, and it is caused due to underwatering it. We recommend watering the plant once every week for the next couple of weeks, or until you see the plant recover its coloring.
The dry potting mix is also a clear symptom of underwatering. Fortunately, this problem has an easy solution, so don't worry about it too much.
A Black Base & Yellow Leaves
The base of your Calathea plant should be bright green. Any other shade can be worrisome and must be looked into at the earliest. The same goes for its leaves. Although these plants are known to have pale leaves, if the majority of the plant is green and some leaves start to turn yellow, it is a symptom of overwatering.
Yellowing and wilting leaves can also be a symptom of excessive sunlight. However, it is relatively easy to fix this problem, with a little patience and effort.
Consider watering your plant just once in 2 weeks, or even lesser, depending on its requirements. If you keep the plant in a room where it receives too much bright, direct sunlight, move the plant to a shaded spot.
Remember that even though this plant likes sunlight, it only likes indirect light.
Leaf Spots
Another symptom to look out for is leaf spots. You may notice peculiar colored spots - pale shades of yellow or white, or even darker shades of brown and black. These leaf spots indicate a fungal infection. However, it may also indicate mineral buildup.
To remedy this problem, water your plant with distilled water only. Using tap water can be one of the primary issues that lead to mineral buildup. If you have no way of using distilled water, keep a glass of tap water out overnight, so the chlorine content dissipates naturally.
Feed water directly into the surrounding soil area to bring the natural, beautiful coloring back. It is best to keep the plant out of reach from children or pets.
Varieties Of Calathea Plants
If you have ever Googled "Calathea Plants," you would have been stunned to find several varieties of this plant. As a matter of fact, each variety comes with its unique textures, shape, designs, size, and color.
Curious to know a little more about this eye-catching plant? Here are some of its most popular varieties:
Pinstripe Calathea
One of the most popular Calathea varieties, this plant has stunning leaves that grow at least a foot long. However, the plant itself never grows beyond 2 feet, making it an ideal indoor houseplant.
The leaf features a beautiful deep shade of green, with white, pink, and emerald swirls forming a feather-like pattern on its surface.
Peacock Calathea
As the name suggests, this Calathea variety has foliage that looks as stunning as a peacock feather. With a reddish-purple or maroon underside, the leaves feature dark green and white patterns on their edges, top, and sides. This contrasting color scheme gives it a particularly striking appeal.
Each leaf is oval-shaped and grows up to 12-inches in length. The plant itself, however, reaches just 2 feet in total.
Rattlesnake Calathea
This variety of Calathea has massive leaves that can grow over 2 feet long. The plant doesn't grow beyond 2 feet, just like its other varieties. The excessively long leaves with the smaller body of the plant give it the appearance of rattlesnakes.
The leaves of this plant have intricate designs over its body. You will find them sporting various shades of green that overlap each other. The leaves are spotted with their iconic green dots all over.
With a unique, red underside and wavy-shaped leaves, this variety of Calathea is immensely popular. Proper care and maintenance will ensure that the plant retains its stunning color and patterns.
White Fusion Calathea
This particular variety of Calathea is slightly more finicky than its green counterparts. Due to its white coloring, it is unable to photosynthesize light as well as the others. If you decide to get one of these rare species in your home, you will need to provide it with adequate water, sunlight, and care to keep it thriving.
The White Fusion Calathea reaches only about 12-inches in height. It can be an excellent option for those looking for a more compact species to keep on their desks or in their offices.
Although this species requires more effort than the others, eventually, the effort is worth it. The White Fusion is one of the most popular and aesthetically striking species of Calathea.
Zebra Plant
Its name makes it quite clear to us how this variety of Calathea looks. With a dark green body and lighter, emerald-colored stripes, the plant species resembles a zebra. This evergreen perennial is one of the few species of Calatheas that reach 3 feet in height. The leaves, however, measure just 1 foot.
Conclusion
If you have been contemplating getting a houseplant, the Calathea might be the best one to start with.
With minimal effort and supervision, these plants can grow to look stunning, adding value to any room they are placed in. We hope this detailed guide helped you understand the specific needs of this plant better.
And with that, we are finally at the end of our guide. Wishing you all the best on your plant parenting journey.
It can be challenging to get water everywhere in your yard, where it might be needed, especially if you have more than one faucet to work with.
If you have to cover a large area, where gardens, livestock tanks, and yards are located in different parts of the property, then watering might be a tough task. Many have found it to be quite painful if they have to drag a heavy hose to the required areas each day.
Instead, it is much smarter to bury various hoses for their individual purposes. It makes the task more efficient, and you can wrap up quickly too.
So, taking your needs into account, we have highlighted how you can bury your garden hose. At the same time, we will also tackle whether it is advisable to bury your garden hose and the various factors you need to consider for the same.
Without further ado, let us get to all the details.
Steps for Burying a Garden Hose
Gather the Necessary Tools
First, you have to get the materials and tools needed to bury the garden hose. So, of course, apart from the garden hose you choose, you’ll also need a hose bib, a combination tee for the water to flow out, clamps for pipes to be fitted. You’ll also need hydrant caps, concrete tiles, rake, shovel, heavy-duty hoe, screwdriver, tools for clamping, hacksaw, and a propane torch.
After assembling the tools, you are left with two choices. Either you can dig the trench and then fit the pipe, or you can tackle it in sections. While we normally recommend choosing the method which works best for you, it is necessary to take the sectional approach if you need to use the hose before the entire process of burying it is complete.
Dig the Trench
You have to use your tools to dig the trench, but you must also make sure that you have leveled off the bottom. This will help you achieve uniform depth. Since hydrants are nearly a foot high, this should be your average depth when it comes to digging.
Install the Fittings and Pipes
Once your trenches are dug, you have to unroll the pipe and put it inside. If you feel the pipe is rolling up again, you should use some items to weigh it down. After that, you have to install the faucets and valves along this pipe when you feel the need.
Wherever you want a hydrant, you have to put in a combination tee. Sometimes, you’ll find it rather difficult to get this tee in the pipe. But, applying soap in the area of the connection will make it easier.
You also have to screw in your hose bib while ensuring that the orientation of the hose is maintained all through the trench.
Closing the Hydrant and Filling the Trench
Now, you have to make a hole in the cover for the hydrant. This is essential for the hose to move in and out. When you keep the hose open, it is best to be careful that it doesn’t interfere with mowing, gardening, or movement in general.
You’ll find that filling trenches is a lot easier if you have soft soil with little-to-no rocks. It is best to use the front end of a loader or a back-hoe for the job. You should avoid putting rocks back since this might apply undue pressure on the hose. Understandably, you’ll be losing soil, so try to find more in order to compensate for this loss.
After you find that the trench has reached ground level, try to put back the turf. Be sure to pay attention to the areas around your hydrant. You don’t want to fill in the hydrant spaces because it’ll be more difficult to attach a garden hose.
Tips for Burying Garden Hose
Avoiding Underground Connections
When burying the hose underground, you should keep some things in mind. First and foremost, you have to avoid connections underground. So, try getting a hose that’s a little longer than the length you want it to run for.
We understand that getting shorter hoses might seem more practical, as they’re easier to store, but making connections only works fine above the ground. Since most of these connections are made of metal, there’s a good chance of rust due to damp soil conditions.
There’s nothing worse than discovering that the pipe might have sprung a leak, only to dig up the ground to see that a connection has actually come loose. To avoid such situations, we recommend doing away with connections for underground hoses.
Get the Right Length
There’s nothing worse than when your hose pipe falls short of expectations. You wouldn’t want to dig up a trench only to find out that the hose is too short. We recommend measuring it beforehand and acquiring one accordingly. If you still have doubts, it is best to err on the side of more, in this case.
Quality Matters
As with most things, you will see that quality matters here as well. Get a hose which has a thicker wall. This will help you if you plan on burying it. After all, the dirt has an amount of weight. The deeper the trench, the more the weight on the hose.
If you buy a cheaper one, the risks of it collapsing are much more. On the other hand, a thick-walled hose is likely to have better insulation against cold weather, and it won’t get bent out of shape either.
Check if Laying a Pipe Makes More Sense
While burying a hose is an easier option, it doesn’t mean it is the right one. PVC pipes are more readily available as well as economical options to get water from one point to another.
Understandably, the hassle involved with PVC pipes is more, from making the joints to digging below the frost line. But, it is a superior long-term solution. You can bury a garden hose when you have a temporary need to transport water or if you want to work on a larger project at a later time.
Functionality and Connections
When you bury the hose, you have to know what the use is. This is because you can regulate the water flow accordingly. It is not fun to have to do so at the starting point each time there is an overflow problem. Instead, it is advisable to install a regulating attachment at the endpoint to ensure you get the desired flow of water.
What to Keep in Mind While Burying Garden Hoses
Now that you know what to do if you have to bury a garden hose, there are a few factors to be considered. We understand that you might want to bury the hose because you want the water to reach a difficult spot or don’t like dragging the hose to different areas. It might also be that you just dislike looking at the exposed hose.
Whatever the reason, you should consider fluctuations in temperature, the type of ground, as well as the digging and burrowing animals in the area. Let us look at the factors in greater detail.
Climate Considerations
While a garden hose that is buried does not freeze as quickly as one which is exposed, there is still a risk if the ground freezes to significant depths. You’ll find that sturdy hoses are quite able to handle the freezing temperatures well enough. But, if they freeze too often with water still inside, then there’s a good chance of quickly breaking down over time.
Furthermore, if an underground hose freezes, and you haven’t managed to blow it out for winter, then you won’t be able to use it until the ground thaws fully. Ultimately, a buried hose is great for seasonal use, but it depends on where you reside.
Ground Conditions
The conditions of the ground also play an essential role in influencing the decision to bury a hose. Even if you’re extremely motivated, you’ll have a tough time digging compacted, rocky, or caliche soils.
Of course, there are specialized tools and pickaxes that are designed specifically for the job. But, when you consider that the trench has to be the same length as the hose, this could seem like a daunting task.
Critter Troubles
This is mostly specific to an area. Rodents tend to be attracted to water. Their burrowing and digging activities usually cause problems because these animals might just decide to gnaw through the hose at a certain point. If you’re dealing with a serious rodent situation, then you should properly reconsider the plan to bury the garden hose.
Where to Bury the Garden Hose
The best bit about burying a garden hose, rather than any other item, is that it can curve around objects. Normally, these could impede the flow of water to the garden bed or other areas that need it. But, a garden hose can work around these to ensure that the water is transported without any hurdles.
Basically, this means that you can bury the garden hose anywhere. In fact, you might even do so under the driveway, making use of a PVC pipe and some water pressure.
What Kind of Garden Hose to Bury
Firstly, the kind of hose you’re burying depends on why you’ve decided to bury it. Neither your most expensive choice nor the cheapest hose will serve you too well if they are buried underground for a duration. Here are some of the types of hoses you might bury.
Rubber Hoses
You can stick to the classic by opting for an old-fashioned polyurethane or rubber hose to get the water from one place to another. Not only are they sturdy, but they are also equipped to handle fluctuations in weather very easily. These pipes can’t be crushed underneath the weight of the soil, either.
But, the best bit is that they won’t kink, accidentally, when you bury or lay them. We recommend getting a pipe with a larger diameter so that the maximum amount of water flows easily when the pipe’s being used.
Drip or Soaker
If you want to water areas that the hose runs through, then you should bury a soaker or a drip hose. In fact, you can even make one from a leaky and old hose if you have the right set of tools lying around. These pipes can work wonderfully if you set them up well.
Final Words
If you have been on the fence about burying your hose, we genuinely hope this guide will help clear the air. Speaking from personal experience, it is incredibly beneficial to have a buried hose, even where the ground tends to freeze.
The added mobility and lack of obstructions are factors that clearly work in favor of this decision. You’ll find that digging the trench and burying the hose isn’t too complex either. Of course, be mindful of your surroundings before making the decision.
Don’t forget to let us know your experiences with burying a garden hose to transport water.
Does your backyard need some protection? Installing a horizontal wood fence might be a good idea in that case.
Whether you want a little privacy from sneaky neighbors or just want to set some chill vibes on your lawn, horizontal fencing is a great choice. But the question is, how to go about it?
If you want to save on a few bucks, we have an informative step-by-step guide to walk you through the entire process of constructing a horizontal wood fence yourself. Not only will it be easy on your wallet, but you’ll also experience a unique sense of achieving something on seeing the final product.
Let’s get right into the details then!
What Is A Horizontal Fence?
A horizontal fence is a wooden boundary made using wooden boards that run along the length of an area instead of the regular vertical up and down manner. It typically comprises 4x4 posts that are strongly anchored to the ground using a concrete paste.
Moreover, these fences provide privacy from passersby and make your outdoor spaces a little more secure.
Materials Needed For Horizontal Fencing
Much to everybody’s surprise, the materials required to build a fence are pretty basic and very conveniently available in local hardware stores. The methodology that we’ll be following can be finessed using the following equipment:
Wooden stakes
String lines for alignment reference
Landscape paint for marking
Wood posts (two or eight, depending on the layout of your fencing)
Horizontal boards (preferable sizes - 8 meters x 6 inches, 6 metres x 6 inches, 4 metres x 6 inches)
Trim boards
Screws, nails, and fence clips
Tools like saw, hammer, level, and shovel
Concrete (60 pounds)
Paint, paintbrush or sprayer, stain
Try to use only pressure-treated wood if you want the best results. It is durable and doesn’t react much to adverse weather.
How To Build A Horizontal Wood Fence?
Building a horizontal wood fence is no rocket science. Once you get your hands clean on the saw and carpentering strategy straight, the whole process will become pretty straightforward. You will definitely agree by the end of our extensive step-by-step guide. So read on!
1. Plan It Out
The first step is to get all the materials in line and plan stuff out. Typically horizontal fences are composed of uniformly spaced boards fixed into place with the help of nails. This design is a classic and works out well, but we’d ask you not to hesitate from being innovative. You can use fence boards of varying widths in different patterns; just make sure that it is practical.
In our guide, we’ll be using 4x4s in a basic pattern for building our fence. In case you’re a beginner, it’s best to stick to the basics, but if you are confident enough, then feel free to experiment.
2. Mark The ground
Marking the ground can be tricky as it could invite disputes with the neighbors if not done within your property area. Typically backyard soil has been long grown over, hiding the property demarcating line, so you can use metal detectors to get clarity on the area owned by you. Do have a quick chat with your neighbors regarding the matter.
Once you are completely sure about your property boundaries, insert two stakes in the soil on opposite sides of your desired fencing line. Running a string along the stakes to get a straight line is a good idea.
Since the midpoint of every 4x4 is at the length of six meters, you’ll need to measure the same and mark the ground using landscape paint. These paints are easily available at hardware stores.
3. Set The Four Primary Posts
Now, this is the most time-taking and exhausting step because you’ll have to wait for the concrete base to dry completely. Each hole should preferably be 20 inches deep and filled with water up to two-thirds of its depth while erecting the fence post in it.
After that, fill the hole with about 40 pounds of dry concrete along with a little more water, thereby creating a thick paste-like consistency. It’s important to keep stirring the solution with a shovel while pouring the concrete to avoid the formation of lumps. After all, lumps are nasty and do not go away entirely once formed, so pay attention while stirring.
Once the posts are rightly placed, you’ll need to check if they are all at the same level. If yes, then well and good, but if not, make adjustments accordingly to ensure that they are at the same height.
4. Level The Fence Boards
The next step is leveling the fence boards so that you have an even horizontal fencing line in your yard. The best way to make it functional is to work towards the top after starting at the bottom. Place the bottom-most board slightly above the ground and align it with the fence post. Keep in mind that straight fencing can be achieved only if your base is leveled properly.
Then, nail the bottom board in place while ensuring that all the boards are centrally in line with the 4x4 posts. Use a wooden spacer to maintain the same gap between consecutive boards. However, if the boards you are using aren’t completely dry, there will automatically be a little gap.
5. Decide And Mark The Position Of The Topmost Rail
Rails are meant to give support to the fence sections, and that’s why they are positioned between the posts. If your rail is hidden at the back of the topmost board, you can fix it right beneath the first board.
6. Cut The Rails
After measuring the distance between your 4x4 posts, you can cut the rails accordingly. They should be equal to the fence boards in length. The only thing is that it is slightly difficult to cut them as they are cuboidal in shape and are thicker as compared to flat boards. Therefore, be very careful while chopping them.
7. Fasten The Topmost Rail
This bit is pretty important because it will affect how the rest of the wooden boards will be spaced out. If this is somehow messed up, the overall look of your horizontal fence will suffer. But no worries; we’ll tell you how to go about it.
Pick up the rail and connect it with the posts using fence clips, nails, or screws. In case you’re planning to use nails, you can drive them in with the help of a fastener that attaches the rail to the post perpendicularly.
However, the easy way out is by using the fence clips. These clips are basically brackets made out of metal and are primarily mounted on the post to keep the rail in a stable position. It makes the whole rail fastening procedure much simpler.
8. Fix The Fence Boards
When the rails are in place, you can go ahead and follow the same methodology to drive in the fence boards. You know the drill now.
Furthermore, you can either alternate the boards with rails or create your own unique pattern. The main function of rails is to support the vertical pickets and ensure maximum privacy. Again, you can be creative here if you have some experience.
Criss-cross rails, open rails, parallel rails, etc., are a few common choices. But if you want a little cottage core or a 70s touch in your backyard, we suggest trying the white picket fence pattern.
9. Chop The Posts
Moving on, when all your boards are nicely screwed or nailed, you can chop off the extra protruding sections of the posts. But if you’re aiming to have a decorative look with post caps, you should leave a little extra length while lopping it off. A little sanding down of the sharp and freshly chopped edges will do good for everybody.
10. Add Some Support
If you feel like your fence boards are dangling down and are in need of some extra support, you can add vertical beams to keep them in place. Measure them in a way that they perfectly fit between the top and bottom rail. This will give a smooth and elegant finish to your fence.
11. Post Caps Are Important
You may think that post caps are merely decorative accessories, but we’re afraid that’s not the case. These caps are installed to cover the sharp edges of the support beams in case you decide to keep them higher than the top rail.
Nonetheless, post caps add a finishing touch to the structure, making it presentable. They also serve as gripping points in case you feel like resting your arms. No matter what design you aim for, you’ll find a post cap in every style. Some popular options are wood, glass, copper, metals, and even solar-powered light bulbs. You can choose whatever defines your aesthetic the best.
12. Finishing Touches
Once you have the structure up and about, the last step is to add the finishing touches and make it match the vibe of your yard or house. Either you can let it age by itself and get that old-school cottage-like feel or give it some color.
For coloring, you have two options - staining and painting. We recommend using a paint sprayer for best results. That’ll help you get the job done swiftly within a couple of hours. An Interesting fact worth noting - among all designs, the white picket fence style is the most loved in US homes.
What Are The Benefits Of Horizontal Fences?
A. Easy Installation
The best part about horizontal wood fences is that they are super easy to construct. It is one of those few wooden structures that can be aced by even beginners. You can build it in no time with a little bit of hand saw skills and accurate measurements.
What’s more, no bulky and complicated equipment is required to get this fence going. Give it a few hours and a little bit of sweat, and you’ll be able to enjoy full privacy in your outdoor space.
B. Multiple Styles And Variations
Who doesn’t love variety? Apart from a few indecisive people, everyone loves having enough options to select from. That’s where the horizontal wood fence shines as it provides a wide scope to experiment with styles and designs.
We all know that wood is a versatile material that can be molded and assembled in lots of different ways. There are multiple types of wooden fences which you can install on your deck.
If you want complete seclusion, setting up a fully covered fence is a good option, but if you wish to have some ventilation space, then spaced fence boards are the way to go. In any case, the options are truly endless.
C. Eco-Friendly
This one might confuse you because how can a fence that requires chopping of trees be environmentally-friendly. Your question is absolutely valid, and we have a logical answer to clear the air.
The deal is, unlike vinyl or any other material, wood is much more durable and strong in the long run. Nowadays, options are available to minimize the weather-induced swelling in wood boards so that they last for long.
Additionally, this type of fencing is quite easy to dispose of and recycle. Stabilizing agents are available to keep it safe from termites and rot. Moreover, it is economically sound and hands down one of the best options available out there.
Final Words
Horizontal fences are a sure and sorted way of enlivening your outdoor space. A backyard that was once open and exposed can transform into a protected chilling spot with the help of some pressure-treated wood boards and menial tools.
Hiring professional carpenters for setting up your fences can burn a hole in your pocket. And spending so much money on something this basic can be a little disappointing for a few. But having read our guide, hopefully, you might be feeling a little confident in going ahead and taking on the task yourself.
That said, we’ll sign off for the day. Until next time! Happy woodworking.
Whether you're lighting up a fire pit or building a bonfire, you will definitely need firewood.
Buying firewood is essential, but buying the correct amount is key.
For most people, learning about firewood measurements can be challenging. After all, the firewood business includes seemingly nonsensical jargon like a "face cord" or a "rick of wood."
In this guide, we walk you through everything you need to know about how much firewood is in a cord and additional tips on how to store it.
In a nutshell, a cord of wood is a unit measurement of firewood. It's calculated by volume, multiplying the length by width by depth.
In the U.S. and Canada, a full cord of wood is 128 cubic feet with 600 to 800 logs.
The standard length of an individual log is 16 inches. That's a 4 feet deep, 4 feet tall, and 8 feet long stack of wood.
Note
A full cord may also be called a bush cord.
Most residential users can get by without using a full cord of firewood. A full cord can last a few months, even for commercial customers.
As such, firewood companies offer smaller sizes. Measuring cords can vary by State, so vendors may have different measurements.
Ask your vendor for specific measurements in cubic feet to know more.
What Is a Half Cord?
A half cord or a one-third cord of wood tends to be made from shorter lengths of firewood.
Half-cord and one-third-cord logs measure 32 to 48 inches compared to full cords, which are much longer.
These consist of three rows of logs in 4-foot-long, 4-foot-high, and 4-foot-deep piles.
On the other hand, a one-third cord can be two rows in a pile that is 4 feet high, 4 feet wide, and 32 inches deep.
What Are the Other Types of Cords?
Although a full cord of wood is usually 8 feet long by 4 feet wide by 4 feet high, there are other measurements of firewood.
Take note of the following terms to stay informed when buying cords of wood:
Sheldon Cord
Generally, a Sheldon cord refers to any set of firewood that measures MORE than 128 cubic feet or a full cord.
A Sheldon cord does not have an official measurement and can vary between vendors.
It can be tricky to find vendors selling firewood in this quantity, so buying a larger amount of smaller bundles is best.
Face Cords or Rick Cord
If a full cord consists of three stacks 4 feet high and 8 feet long, a face cord consists of only one stack of wood.
It measures 4 feet in height and 8 feet in length with 16-inch long logs.
If the logs are only 12 inches long, then it means it has less wood than the standard face cord. Ensure that the price is equivalent to the amount you're getting.
It's also known as a rick of wood. A rick refers to the way materials are stacked, like hay.
Running Cord
You might hear this term used by some people.
A running cord simply means a full cord of firewood that is NOT divided into three stacks. All logs are stacked parallel to each other.
Stove Cord
People may use the term "stove cord" when buying firewood for stoves.
Firewood cut 12 inches long is ideal to use in stoves. It measures roughly the same as a full cord but only 12 inches deep.
The exact measurements of a stove cord can vary between sellers. The bottom line is that this cord of wood is small enough to fit in a stove.
Truckload of Wood
It literally means a pile of firewood that fits in a pickup truck. The amount of firewood varies depending on the size of the truck.
Ask your vendor for the exact measurements in cubic feet for more accuracy.
Will Fresh Wood Do?
You might benefit from using fresh wood, especially if you want to buy it in bulk.
Since many vendors sell fresh wood as a cheaper alternative, it can work if you're in a pinch.
You can season fresh wood by simply storing wood cords in a dry place. You'll have enough supply for a full winter when they're all seasoned and dry.
How to Measure Firewood
Knowing how wood is measured is vital because vendors typically sell wood by the cord.
To measure firewood, all logs must run parallel to each other and should be stacked tightly. A wood stack that runs parallel is also called a running cord.
After stacking the wood, calculate the total volume.
A fullcord is generally considered to be 128 cubic feet of firewood in the U.S. and Canada. However, it can still differ between States and regions.
Firewood Measurements
Not all wood gets chopped in the same sizes, so you can expect variations in measurements.
The standard length is 16 inches. A full cord is 4 feet deep with three stacks of 16-inch logs.
Sellers may stack 12-inch logs in four rows instead of three. Others sell firewood as long as 24 inches in two rows.
Getting the right size is CRUCIAL, so check with your vendor to see how they chop their wood to get an accurate measurement.
Stack the Wood Yourself
When stacking, watch out for sellers who might stack the firewood loosely. There are also vendors that won't allow you to stack the wood yourself.
If you suspect some questionable business practices, it's best to steer clear of these sellers and do more research into more upstanding sellers.
It's common for customers to stack wood themselves, so any reputable vendor should allow for self-stacking.
Now that we've gone through the numbers, how much firewood do you really need?
Below are some recommendations on how much wood you need depending on the situation:
For Winter
How much firewood you need in the winter depends on several factors, such as geographical location, heating space, and insulation.
A cord of wood can last up to 3 months, so 1 to 2 cords of firewood should be enough to burn through the cold months.
However, the extended winters of colder states may require more. Around 3 to 4 cords are needed for extra warmth.
Make sure to stock up on firewood during late summer or early fallto get a head start and avoid the rush when prices go up.
For Your Fireplace
The amount of firewood you'll need depends on how often you use your fireplace. A fireplace can burn 2 to 3 logs at a time.
If you only use it once a week, a face cord should be enough to last for a few months.
In contrast, if you use it often to heat your house, a full cord is necessary to keep your home warm.
Camping and Bonfires
If you're planning on a weekend trip out in the great outdoors, you need to consider how long you want the fire going.
A good rule of thumb is to get firewood bundles. A bundle usually consists of 5 to 7 logs.
A couple of bundles is enough to sustain a 2-hour campfire. Try to pack at least five bundles for fires lasting more than 6 hours.
Adjust the amount as you see fit, like if you're going to make multiple campfires or use it to roast.
How to Store Cords
Once you've gotten your cord, the next step is to store your logs.
Whether you buy a face cord or a full cord, the storage methods remain the same. The difference lies in whether your firewood is unseasoned or seasoned.
Unseasoned Wood
Unseasoned firewood is still green and wet, which means it doesn't burn as efficiently, is more challenging to light, and produces more smoke.
You must first split them into manageable pieces that you can easily stack and carry. Look for a place with good air circulation to let it air dry.
The drying process can take anywhere between 6 and 9 months, depending on how you stack the pieces.
You can use bricks or pallets to elevate the stack above the ground. Stack the pieces in a row and ensure enough space for airflow.
This arrangement can help keep out moisture. Too much moisture makes it difficult to start a fire. It also invites rot and mold.
Do NOT store wet firewood indoors, as it can bring pests, mold, and excess humidity into your home.
Seasoned Wood
Unlike green or unseasoned firewood, this type is already split and dried, so it's ready to use.
That being said, seasoned firewood should still be stored properly.
Because dry wood burns the best, keep your driest piece at the top of the stack for better accessibility.
To maximize your supply, use the older pieces first to prevent rot and decay.
Lastly, make sure to protect the stack from the elements by covering it when you store it.
How to Store Firewood FAQs
Below are commonly asked questions about firewood:
How Long Will One Cord of Wood Last?
A full cord can last up to 3 monthsor more for most residential users. On the other hand, a face cord may only last up to 2 months.
How Much Firewood is 3 Cords?
A full cord contains roughly 600 to 800 logs per order. If the median is 700, you can expect around 2,100 pieces with three full cords.
What are the Best Types of Firewood?
Hardwoods like oak, maple, and birch are the best type of firewood because of their density. They have more heat energy per volume, burning hotter for longer.
Knowing the common terminology when it comes to firewood is essential to ensure you're getting your money's worth of wood.
A full cord is a standard measurement of firewood that everyone should know.
Whether you're buying a face cord or a truckload of logs, you can find the right amount that works for you.
If wooden logs are too much of a hassle, you might be interested in tabletop and floor-standing patio heaters that work with pellets instead.
Sometimes, a sail on the boat is all you need to uplift the mood after a long day at work, especially with your loved ones.
If you are a boat owner, it is essential to take care of the boat so that it is able to steer through the sea for a long time.
But did you know that the paint of the hull of a boat does a lot more than giving it a fancy look? In fact, it is responsible for keeping away weed, slime, and other organisms that grow under your boat.
However, effectively painting the hull involves a decent amount of expenditure and is certainly time-consuming. So, we thought of helping you out in this process by providing an informative guide, explaining all the nitty-gritty concerning bottom painting a boat.
That said, what are we waiting for? Let's get down to business, shall we?
Is Bottom Painting Really Necessary?
Bottom painting is not mandatory if you take the boat out every once in a while. For instance, if it's kept in a warehouse most of the time and only hits the sea occasionally. You can effectively maintain its bottom by applying a wax coat and cleaning it periodically in such scenarios.
However, if you take the boat out every now and then, you’d dock it in the sea most of the time. In these cases, bottom/hull painting becomes absolutely mandatory.
That being said, painting the bottom is not enough; you must clean it on a daily basis, remove the paint and repaint it with antifouling paint. Doing this not only protects the hull but also makes the boat highly functional.
Antifouling Paint 101
Antifouling paint plays a very important role in saving the boat from all types of water-based damages. It is applied all over the hull from the water line to the bottom. Furthermore, antifouling paint helps in keeping away all water-based lives like weed and barnacles that tend to leach onto the bottom of the boat.
Plus, antifouling paint comes in a wide range of brands, colors, and styles, just like normal paint. However, there are mainly three types of antifouling paint: ablative, hard, and hybrid. The right type of antifouling paint for you depends on the boat and your budget.
What Are The Types Of Hull Paint?
As mentioned in the previous section, there are mainly 3 types of antifouling paints. Let us take a closer look at the functions of these paints.
Ablative Paint
Ablative paints are perfect for boats that are taken out on the sea occasionally or that move very slowly. This type of antifouling paint tends to wear away with the passage of time. Also, it releases a lot of biocides while sailing through the sea.
An ablative paint is also called “self-polishing” paint since it sits very thin on the hull. Overall, painting the hull with ablative paint is relatively easier, less time-consuming, and affordable since there will be less paint to remove.
Hard Bottom
On the other hand, hard bottom paints are suitable for all types of boats that move very fast. They contain a very thick layer of biocide, making their coating very hard and long-lasting. However, with time, this paint too wears away but lasts a lot longer than ablative paint.
Hybrid Paint
As the name suggests, hybrid paint is a mixture of ablative and hard bottom paint. The best part about this paint is that it can be used on the hull of all types of boats.
How Much Does It Cost To Bottom Paint A Boat?
We hope, by now, you are aware of the three different types of antifouling paint and why bottom painting is so important. So, let us now focus on the main question: how much is it going to cost?
The best thing about bottom painting is that you can either choose to do it yourself or hire a professional. That said, like most projects, going DIY will help save money while hiring a professional would be rather expensive but less time-consuming and deliver guaranteed results.
DIY Bottom Painting
Going DIY makes you take charge of the boat. Before starting, plan it all out and note that it will take a lot of time. Also, be careful while painting, as you cannot afford to make too many mistakes. The cost of DIY bottom painting varies widely, but it mostly comes down to the quantity and type of paint you use.
In general, bottom paint is available in one-gallon drums, which usually cost between $20 and $200 per gallon. That being said, the brand and the type of paint also play important roles in deciding the price.
You will require a handful of painting supplies as well, such as goggles, rollers, paintbrushes, breathing masks, gloves, masking tapes, sandpaper, and drop cloths.
The bigger the boat, the more paint you will need. The amount needed per linear foot would be clearly mentioned on the drums of paint. In general, most ablative bottom paints require two coats, whereas customized epoxy bottom paints need just a single coat. Keep these in mind to have a clear estimate of the cost.
Double coating boats measuring 20 feet to 35 feet would require 3 gallons of hull paint.
Single coating boats measuring 20 feet to 35 feet would require 1.5 gallons of hull paint.
Double coating boats measuring 36 feet to 51 feet would require 6 gallons of hull paint.
Single coating boats measuring 36 feet to 51 feet would require 3.5 gallons of hull paint.
Double coating boats measuring 53 feet to 63 feet would require 9 gallons of hull paint.
Single coating boats measuring 53 feet to 63 feet would require 4.5 gallons of hull paint.
Professional Bottom Painting
When it comes to professional bottom painting, it usually starts with a base cost. The professionals determine the base coat after they check the size of the boat. In this day and age, the cost per linear foot is about $25 on average.
However, this is just the price of basic selection; if you want to opt for premium selection, the price may shoot up to $125. If you want to make some additional repairs, then it is going to cost even more.
In general, professionals charge less for larger boats than small boats. The cost further depends on the place where the boat will be painted. Also, painting older boats costs a lot more than new ones, as the professional will need to repair the damages prior to bottom painting.
You are in luck if your boat has never been painted before because it is going to cost the least as the professionals will not need to remove any paint.
Keeping the location and the boat size in mind, these are the estimates that you may end up paying.
60-feet and larger boat: $56 per linear feet + $555 for a premium selection
55-feet to 59-feet boat: $49 per linear feet + $490 for premium selection
50-feet to 54-feet boat: $43 per linear feet + $400 for a premium selection
44-feet to 49-feet boat: $38 per linear feet + $330 for a premium selection
37-feet to 43-feet boat: $34 per linear feet + $250 for a premium selection
30-feet to 36-feet boat: $29 per linear feet + $190 for a premium selection
29-feet boat: $25 per linear feet + $155 for premium selection
Frequently Asked Questions
In this section, we have answered some of the frequently asked questions regarding hull painting a boat. We strongly recommend you read this part carefully.
How often should I paint my boat?
Like we mentioned earlier, if the boat hits the water daily, get it checked every year to know if it needs bottom painting or not. In most cases, it will be required. Plus, if you use the boat for commercial reasons, you would have to get its bottom painted at the end of each season. And finally, if it mostly stays ashore and you take it out occasionally, it will require bottom painting every other year.
What are some of the popular brands of bottom paint?
Yes, it can; however, it is mostly negligible. It depends largely on the paint job; if it's smooth, there should be no problem. Having said that, if there are multiple coatings of antifouling bottom paint on the hull of your boat, then the loss of speed will be noticeable.
Furthermore, ablative bottom paints are meant to shed their coatings over time, so the coating may wear off over time, and weed may begin to grow underneath the hull. In that case, too, the boat will experience noticeable speed loss.
Final Thoughts
Bottom painting the boat is a must if you take it out in the water quite frequently. It protects the boat and also makes it look attractive.
However, when it comes to the cost of bottom painting, it is quite affordable if you know what you are doing, given the wide range of options available out there. Taking proper care of the boat, especially the hull, will make it last a very long time.
On that note, we have come to the end of this informative article. We hope we could provide some clear insights on the cost to bottom paint a boat. For further queries, kindly drop a comment down below.
A fresh coat of paint can add pizzazz to any room. From rich hues to earthy tones - there’s nothing a splash of color can’t fix!
If you don’t have time or money for a full-blown renovation project, then a quick paint job is the best way to hide stains, deformities, and design flaws in your house or commercial property. However, you need premium quality paint for the project, and Benjamin Moore is one of the top brands that come to our mind.
With an interesting history, a prolific range of top-quality products, and 3500+ color options, you couldn’t have asked for a better alternative.
If you are wondering about the paint costs, we will answer that question and much more. In this guide, we have compiled the different products from Benjamin Moore and elaborated on their features and price.
So, without further ado, let’s begin!
Brand Overview
Before we delve into details, here’s a quick overview of Benjamin Moore and what makes it one of the most sought-after paint brands available today.
Started in 1883, with the aim of selling premium quality paints and stains, Benjamin Moore has expanded its portfolio and strived to become one of the leading market brands. What makes it unique is its tie-up with thousands of independent retailers spread across North America and its focus on using innovative technology to produce excellent paints and finishes.
In 2000, this brand was acquired by Berkshire Hathaway and since then has taken long strides to produce a sustainable range of paint coatings.
What Determines The Cost Of Benjamin Moore Paint?
Benjamin Moore offers a wide variety of high-quality paint products, and although the prices are on the higher side, the brand also has some budget-friendly options. Having said that, we believe it is better to make a one-time investment and choose an expensive option that will provide a premium finish and look stellar for years to come.
Before discussing specific product prices, we think it’s best to look at the factors determining these prices. For instance, a paint that offers excellent coverage and can cover both interior and exterior surfaces is naturally going to cost more than one that can work only on interior surfaces.
So, in this section, we will be looking at the factors that determine the cost of Benjamin Moore’s paints. Let’s get started.
Finish Type
The foremost factor that determines the price of the paint is the sheen or finish type. Benjamin Moore offers the following finish types:
Flat Finish
If your wall is uneven or has other imperfections, there’s no better way to hide these than by opting for a flat finish. It provides excellent coverage and is not as reflective as some other finish types.
Eggshell Finish
This finish type is usually recommended for high-traffic areas such as the kitchen or family rooms as it is easy to clean. In addition, it provides a subdued polished glow that makes the area look elegant and sophisticated.
Matte Finish
Matte finish is shine-free and can successfully hide surface imperfections. Besides, it is pretty long-lasting and is recommended for bedrooms, ceilings, and study areas.
Satin Finish
Satin finish lies midway between matte and high-gloss finish types. It has a velvety luster and is usually used in dining halls to give it a rich look. Since it can be washed easily, you don’t have to break your back to maintain it.
Semi-Gloss Finish
A semi-gloss finish provides a highly reflective surface and can work on doors, window frames, and cabinets. Besides, it has an easy-to-clean surface and can be used in high-traffic areas too.
Sustainability
Different product lines from the brand, such as Regal, Ben, and Eco Spec, meet all safety standards and are formulated to release a low amount of VOCs (volatile organic compounds).
The Natura range from the brand, in particular, was considered to be the benchmark in environmentally feasible paints and was certified asthma and allergy-friendly. Eco Spec, which received the Green Seal Certification, later replaced it.
Given the growing emphasis on using sustainable paint products, Benjamin Moore has started focusing on manufacturing “greener” options that do not release any harsh fumes or emissions. As a result, the price of these products is higher owing to their advantages.
Mildew Resistance
Certain additional qualities such as mildew resistance, weatherproof properties, and durability affect the price of paint.
If you are looking to paint the kitchen, bathroom, or other moisture-prone areas, then you’ll have to shell out a more significant sum for mildew-resistant paints. Similarly, if you wish to paint exterior surfaces such as sheds, then you need durable and weatherproof paint. So, these additional features increase the price of paint per gallon but improve its functionality and longevity.
How Much Does Benjamin Moore Paint Cost?
Now that we have analyzed the factors that determine paint cost, it is time to delve into the specifics. Having a comprehensive idea about the cost of different product lines from Benjamin Moore will help you get a ballpark estimate for your paint job. It will also help you decide what paint best suits your needs. So, let’s look at all the deets!
Interior Paints
Benjamin Moore has a vibrant line of interior paint products that are fade-resistant and easy to work with. Besides, they remain smooth and are hard-wearing. So, there are no chances of chipping or cracking. Out here, we have listed the diverse range of interior paint products from the brand with their features and prices.
Aura
Formulated using Color Lock Technology, Aura stands out because of its color vitality and durability. The colors are thick and vivid and can endure regular washing without fading.
Besides, the paint retains color consistency over time and produces vibrant, accurate hues because of the Gennex Color Technology engineered to improve paint longevity and resist fading. This makes it stand out among its competitors, who use surfactants (chemicals) to disperse the pigments evenly. Although the colors are rich initially, they fade over time because of the presence of chemicals.
Apart from durability, this color technology also has excellent ‘hide’ potential, and the paint itself is self-priming. So, you don’t have to apply more than two coats to get a gorgeous finish. In addition, it is mildew resistant and can cover up to 400 sq ft per gallon, depending on the wall type.
Coming to the finishes, we have this range available in matte, satin, eggshell, and semi-gloss finishes.
Wait...there’s more! The Aura Bath And Spa series is a subdivision of this range and comes with a matte finish for easy cleaning. Also, it is ideal for moisture-prone areas such as kitchen, bathroom, and other high-humidity areas.
At last, we come to the price. Aura paints will cost you a tidy sum of $80 per gallon. Although this is by no means humble, we’d argue its features far outweigh the price.
Regal Select
The Regal Select line from Benjamin Moore is acrylic-based and comparatively less expensive than the Aura range. It is spatter-resistant, blends seamlessly into corners without creasing, and is easy to work with, even for DIY enthusiasts or first-time painters.
This paint-primer is available in innumerable color options and provides excellent coverage. So, it can effectively hide previous stains, and you don’t need to apply several coats to get a striking color. Moreover, the painted wall doesn’t require active scrubbing and is easy to clean with a simple soap and water solution.
This line is also formulated using the Gennex Colorant Technology. The absence of harsh chemicals makes it safe and sustainable, as does the low VOC concentration. Besides, it emits less odor, so you don’t have to worry about pungent paint odor engulfing your house.
The Regal Select line is mildew resistant and available in all five finishes - flat, matte, satin, semi-gloss, and eggshell. Thus, it can be your top pick for all home-improvement projects and can be applied to several surfaces such as ceilings, walls, drywall, wood, and plaster.
Priced at $59 per gallon, the Regal Select range is worth every penny you spend on them. It provides an elegant, uniform finish, and one gallon can cover up to 450 sq ft without compromising on paint thickness or coverage. So, you get what you pay for!
ben Interior Paint
ben Interior Paints should be the ultimate choice when trying your hands at a paint job for the first time. It is much more affordable than the Aura and Regal Select line and formulated with the specific goal to provide an easy painting experience.
This premium-quality painter-primer gives a flawless finish to your hallway, dining room, cabinets, and other surfaces that require regular cleaning. In addition, the flat finish type is ideal for ceilings and other low-traffic areas.
Apart from flat, it comes in two other finishes - eggshell and semi-gloss. Thus, you can rely on ben Interior Paints for your home improvement projects if the more expensive options go beyond your budget.
It is spatter-resistant, contains low VOCs, and is formulated with Gennex Color Technology to get gorgeous and rich hues at nominal prices. What’s more, it is washable and priced reasonably at $42 per gallon.
Since you can cover roughly 400 sq ft per gallon, we can safely state that this is one of the most affordable paint solutions you can get from this brand.
ADVANCE Interior Paint
If you are looking for waterborne-alkyd hybrid paint specifically formulated for cabinets, wood surfaces, trim, or doors, then you’ll be pretty impressed with the efficacy of ADVANCE Interior paint.
It has a separate paint primer that can improve adhesion, block stains, and provide a level surface for your painting job.
The paint line is spatter-resistant, easy to apply, and clean. Besides, it is durable and contains low volatile organic compounds. So, you can get a furniture-like finish on a wide variety of indoor surfaces without worrying about the paint chipping or cracking over time.
Moreover, the paints can be tinted with waterborne colorants from Benjamin Moore to get different colohttp://homesthetics.net/best-ceiling-paint/rs and excellent coverage. It is available in several finishes, including matte, semi-gloss, high-gloss, and satin, and is priced a little over $50 per gallon.
Muresco Ceiling Paint
We’ll end our list of interior paint products from Benjamin Moore by talking about this Muresco Ceiling Paint. As you already understand, this paint is specifically formulated to hide imperfections, level, and coat ceilings. It is a paint-primer combination, so you wouldn’t need multiple re-coats to get a flawless finish.
Besides, it is only available in a flat finish type to eliminate chances of glare and goes over easily without splattering. It is priced at $42 per gallon, which is pretty reasonable given its fantastic quality.
Exterior Paint
Exterior paint should be tougher, with the ability to withstand harsh weather conditions. Besides, it should be resistant to water damage and mildew formation, all the while providing excellent coverage for your outdoor surfaces. Benjamin Moore delivers on all these grounds and much more. Let us tell you more about its line of exterior paints!
Regal Select
Formulated using advanced alkyd technology, the Regal Select range provides superb adhesion, even to grained, chalky surfaces and other hard-to-coat surfaces like wood and vinyl. Since it has sufficient open time and superior flow, it is ideal for detailing jobs.
Moving on, the paint can be applied and cured in temperatures as low as 35℉ and gives a durable finish that isn’t prone to cracking, chipping, or peeling over time. So, your painted exteriors will look fresh for years to come. In addition, the colors are vibrant, mildew-resistant, and fade-resistant, thanks to the Gennex Color Technology.
Benjamin Moore offers three finishes for its Regal Select exterior range - flat, soft gloss, and low luster. Also, the products come with a lifetime warranty. Given its numerous advantages and versatility, this range is priced at a pretty price of $64 per gallon.
An exciting addition to this line was the Regal Select High-Build Paint, an acrylic-based formula for hiding small cracks and providing outstanding coverage.
Available in three finishes, the high-build exterior range has excellent flow and can be applied to several surfaces to cover imperfections and get a smooth surface without several coats. This is priced at around $56 per gallon.
Aura
Engineered with Proprietary Color Lock and Gennex Colorant Technology, the Aura line of Benjamin Moore’s exterior paints provides rich, radiant colors that retain their vibrancy over time.
Moreover, it provides superior coverage and fantastic durability against varying weather patterns. It dries quickly and can be cured in lower temperatures besides being mildew-resistant.
Also, it provides brilliant adhesion and can double as a primer in most instances unless the surface has major deformities. Available in four finishes, semi-gloss, low luster, satin, and flat, it is priced similarly to the interior paint range at $80 per gallon.
The Aura Grand Entrance range of exterior paints is explicitly meant for doorways and trim and is available in two finishes - high-gloss and satin.
ben Exterior Paint
If you are looking for sustainable and affordable exterior paint, then Benjamin Moore’s ben Exterior line is for you. There are several impressive features of this range. For starters, it offers brilliant coverage and has a superior flow for consistent application. Besides, it comes with a 25-year limited warranty - so your walls are likely to remain intact for years to come.
The 100% acrylic resin formulation delivers unrivaled adhesion, mildew resistance, and fade resistance. The quick-drying formula makes wooden, primed, and previously painted surfaces weatherproof within two hours of application.
In addition, it can dry in temperatures as low as 35℉, so you don’t have to wait till summer to complete your paint job. It is available in three finishes, flat, low luster, and soft gloss, to fulfill all your exterior painting needs.
The best part? It is reasonably priced at $48 per gallon, making it the least expensive product from the Benjamin Moore paint range.
Coronado Rust Scat
If you are looking for rust-preventative coatings for your metallic outdoor surfaces, then the Coronado Rust Scat is a perfect choice. Easy to apply, even over painted surfaces, you can use this paint line over ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
It provides excellent adhesion and is available in several attractive finishes, including gloss, semi-gloss, and satin. In addition, it is available in both water-based and alkyd-based forms and is priced at $55 per gallon.
Exterior Stains
While we are on the topic of Benjamin Moore paints, we cannot miss out on its fantastic line of exterior stains that are specifically formulated for wooden surfaces.
Arborcoat Stain
The Arborcoat stain line is available in different color options and can provide a durable and attractive finish to all wood types. In addition, it prevents blistering, stains, scuffs, and peeling. Its mildew-resistant and UV-resistant properties protect the wood while also enhancing its texture.
Besides, this self-priming stain is formulated with Gennex Color Technology to retain the original vitality and sheen. It is priced at $42.99 per gallon.
Coronado Maxum
Another excellent wood stain, the Coronado Maxum Stains and Primer range, provides mildew resistance and a durable coating that will accentuate the beauty of your wooden surfaces.
Available in waterborne-alkyd, acrylic, and alkyd forms, this line has fantastic color retention and is resistant to scuffs and fading. Besides, it is available in solid color, semi-transparent, and translucent choices. The price varies according to the type but is usually around $30 to $35 per gallon.
How Much Of Benjamin Moore Paint Is Needed To Paint A Room?
Before commencing with any paint job, you need to determine the amount of paint needed for your ceiling, windows, doors, and walls. Besides, you need to look into other essential items like rollers, brushes, tape, roller trays, etc., for the project. This helps you get a comprehensive idea about the tools you’ll be needing and plan a budget accordingly.
Now that you know the prices of all the different paint lines from Benjamin Moore, it is time to do some calculations and understand how much paint will be needed for the room.
Several factors determine the quantity of paint needed for a room. For instance, a drywall that is being painted for the first time will absorb a lot of paint, whereas a room that has been painted before and has no prominent stains will require fewer coats. So, there can be no one-size-fits-all answer to this question.
However, you can measure the length, width, and height of your room after subtracting the area of the door and windows to get a ballpark estimate of the room surface area. This will help determine the quantity of paint needed. As we have mentioned earlier, one gallon of Benjamin Moore paint can cover anywhere between 300 to 400 sq ft.
There are no two ways about the fact that Benjamin Moore is one of the high-end paint brands on the market. However, its efficacy and features justify the expense, and its longevity makes it cost-effective. But, if you want to economize and reduce the paint cost, we have some tips out here that’ll come in handy.
Bulk Purchase
That’s right! You can choose to purchase 5-gallon paint buckets that are available at a lower cost than one-quart or one-gallon variants. If you are remodeling and repainting the house, you’ll undoubtedly be requiring over one gallon. So, it is advisable to purchase the paint in bulk to get discounts and lower the cost per gallon.
Reduce The Number Of Coats
While it might seem like you are compromising on color vitality and coverage by reducing the number of coats, that’s far from the truth. Hear us out!
A well-primed surface requires a lesser number of coats, and although the paint lines from Benjamin Moore are said to be “self-priming,” there’s no harm in applying a primer underneath. This improves the coverage, accentuates the paint color, and increases the paint’s adhesion to the wall surface. As such, you’ll be minimizing the quantity of paint used.
This can particularly work wonders if you are painting on drywall or any other porous surface, especially for the first time.
Shop From Local Stores
Local stores are more likely to offer discounts and slash prices from time to time. Besides, they sometimes have dented boxes that are kept at the back of the store. As long as the paint inside is good, you can use them for your renovation project. Also, you don’t have to pay shipping costs on store-bought products, so that’s a bonus.
In addition, several hardware stores offer paint swatches that’ll make color selection much more effortless.
How Does Benjamin Moore Fare Against Its Competitors?
If you have done ample research on Benjamin Moore paints, you might have inadvertently come across Sherwin Williams. Both of these brands have a prolific range of high-quality products for your interior and exterior painting needs.
But, what makes Benjamin Moore stand out is that it delivers the same performance (arguably better) at a lower cost. For example, let’s take the most expensive products from both brands. The Aura line from Benjamin Moore is priced at $80 per gallon, whereas the Emerald line from Sherwin Williams is priced at $90 per gallon.
The same goes for exterior paints. The Regal Select line from Benjamin Moore is priced at $64 per gallon, whereas the Superpaint Exterior Latex line from Shermin Williams is costlier at $70 per gallon.
So, if you’re wondering if there’s any other brand that can offer the same characteristics at a lower price, the answer is no. Benjamin Moore, although expensive, manages to deliver quality products that pack a punch and justify the cost.
What Is The Best Way To Paint Walls?
If you are a person who loves DIY jobs, then taking up the task of painting your house is the best way to save quite a few bucks. So, instead of hiring a contractor and shelling out the extra cash, you can save up and invest in high-quality Benjamin Moore paints.
One of the best features of this brand is that it’s pretty easy to work with. All you need is a few good rollers, brushes, and other items required for painting, and you’re good to go. In this brief guide, we’ll tell you how to go about painting your interior walls. Let’s take a look!
Step 1: Choose The Right Tools
For any paint job to be successful, you need the right tools. So, look for high-quality rollers, brushes, an extension pole, and a pan. You can find them online or at your local hardware store. You mustn’t compromise on their quality since it can directly hamper your home improvement project.
In addition, you can choose between Aura or ben interior paint line, depending on your requirements and budget. Both these lines have spatter-resistant paint that offers quick touch-ups and a smooth finish.
Step 2: Prepare The Wall
The next step involves properly cleaning the wall to remove any grease, soot, grime, mildew, or other stains. Although most of the paints in the Benjamin Moore range are self-priming and do an excellent job of providing adequate coverage, you can save on the number of coats by priming the wall in advance.
In addition, you can opt for a deep-colored or tinted primer if you are working with darker hues.
Step 3: Cut Into The Room
“Cutting in” the room signifies painting along the edges, the ceiling line, switches, door, windows, etc. This can get quite tricky since it demands precision, and we’d advise you to be careful and choose an appropriate brush for it.
Step 4: Start Rolling On The Walls
Pour the paint on the well-lined tray and load the roller by moving it back and forth on the pan till it’s completely saturated. Then work on the walls with it, following the top-down approach. However, do not apply too much pressure because it might lead to the paint running down or dripping. Allow the roller and paint to do the job.
Step 5: Avoid Streaks
One of the most challenging tasks you will be faced with while painting walls is avoiding streaks. This usually happens when you try to paint a large area in one go.
So, paint smaller areas and keep the roller wet. In addition, every time you reload it, start by working on a fresh row and then merge it with the painted area. This minimizes the chances of lap marks and produces a uniform surface.
Step 6: Let It Dry
It is advisable to apply at least two coats of paint to ensure sufficient coverage and hide previous stains. Besides, it improves the paint vibrancy.
So, apply two coats and leave sufficient time in between them. Also, let the paint cure properly before you place the wall fixtures or frames back.
Benjamin Moore Paint Cost FAQ
Can I Get Paint Samples From The Brand?
Yes! Benjamin Moore offers a wide selection of color swatches and paint samples for interior and exterior surfaces. You can order these online, and they are available in standard one-pint sizes that cost $10.99. So, before committing to any one color, you can try out multiple color samples.
Where Can I Find Benjamin Moore Paints?
As some of you might already know, you wouldn’t be able to find Benjamin Moore paints at Target or Home Depot. This is because the brand has a longstanding commitment to local paint and stain dealers and sells its products exclusively to them.
So, you can find them at your local hardware shop in the US or Canada.
What Makes Benjamin Moore Products Eco-Friendly?
Benjamin Moore strives to produce environment-friendly products and has taken significant strides in this direction. It has a range of products with zero or low VOCs. Besides, the Gennex Color Technology is a waterborne tinting system that doesn’t use any surfactants or chemicals to retain color consistency and quality.
In addition, you can easily access the Safety Data Sheet that elaborates on the toxicity of each paint type. All these factors, combined with the low odor emission, make it one of the most eco-friendly paint brands on the market.
Which Is The Most Eco-Friendly Paint From The Brand?
The Eco Spec range that replaced the Natura line is the greenest paint from the brand. It has minimal odor, adheres to stringent environmental safety policies, emits zero odor and VOCs, and has received several third-party certifications that hail it as one of the most sustainable paint options.
How Long Does The Paint Take To Dry?
There’s no fixed answer to this question. As a rule of thumb, the paint dries quickly in a dry environment, and latex-based paints dry faster than alkyd ones. So, it is best to refer to the technical data sheet that the brand provides for its products. It has specific details about the paint-dry time.
Final Words
Benjamin Moore has become a favorite among interior designers and coveted among homeowners for its carefully formulated product line with breathtaking colors, high coverage, and fade resistance.
Even though the paints from this brand cost more, they prove to be quite economical in the long run, as you wouldn’t have to re-paint the house for a very long time. In addition, the paint is immune to mildew formation and weather damage. So, even though its price is a pocket pinch, you will not regret it.
If you are willing to splurge, the Aura range of interior and exterior paints will be your best bet. However, if you want something on a modest budget, the ben interior and exterior line should be your go-to choice.
With that, we will take our leave. Do let us know what you think in the comments below.
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